B
Oh and to answer your question yes it has high efficiency in combatting root disease. It should never be used as a preventative though and should be seen only as a last line of defence when it all goes to shit and Pythium and/or Phytophthora present. Also pathogens also have a tendency to becoming resistant to it... I.e. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/07060660809507500
For those that don't know, I.E. myself what do you mean by proactive cultural growing practices? ThanksRegalia looks very good re toxicity potential to the end user. It basically acts to prime the plants immune system and isn't systemic (it's translaminar). The thing is though it's efficiency isn't as high as some of these nasties like Eagle 20 and Subdue Maxx and so a lot of growers who are looking for a one hit wonder prefer the nasties. I think the thing growers need to understand is that prevention through proactive cultural growing practices is the key to preventing root disease and other plant based fungi (botrytis and PM).
On VPD - yep its a handy tool to understand for growers. I recently published an article on it but it would be rude to link to it from here unless the mods approved this. The thing is though VPD is extremely good in environments where temperature fluctuations occur during the course of the day. In environments where a temperature is stable throughout the day VPD is really quite overkill because at any fixed air temperature there is an excellent inverse relationship between RH and VPD. So therefore growers really just need to establish optimum air temperature and RH for their genetics. As long as they can maintain the grow environment within these parameters temp and RH measurements considered separately are just as precise as VPD (which is simply a measurement that calculates temp and RH into a single value). Also, most will tell you to reduce humidity after flowers have developed to prevent molds/fungi regardless of what is considered optimum VPD. I.e. better to run less than optimum VPD than to have a crop under attack by PM etc.
Regalia looks very good re toxicity potential to the end user. It basically acts to prime the plants immune system and isn't systemic (it's translaminar). The thing is though it's efficiency isn't as high as some of these nasties like Eagle 20 and Subdue Maxx and so a lot of growers who are looking for a one hit wonder prefer the nasties. I think the thing growers need to understand is that prevention through proactive cultural growing practices is the key to preventing root disease and other plant based fungi (botrytis and PM).
On VPD - yep its a handy tool to understand for growers. I recently published an article on it but it would be rude to link to it from here unless the mods approved this. The thing is though VPD is extremely good in environments where temperature fluctuations occur during the course of the day. In environments where a temperature is stable throughout the day VPD is really quite overkill because at any fixed air temperature there is an excellent inverse relationship between RH and VPD. So therefore growers really just need to establish optimum air temperature and RH for their genetics. As long as they can maintain the grow environment within these parameters temp and RH measurements considered separately are just as precise as VPD (which is simply a measurement that calculates temp and RH into a single value). Also, most will tell you to reduce humidity after flowers have developed to prevent molds/fungi regardless of what is considered optimum VPD. I.e. better to run less than optimum VPD than to have a crop under attack by PM etc.
@SinCity , I think you were looking for info like this last week...With fungal pathogens it really comes down to keeping humidity at levels that don't promote their growth on the plant. In many cases this means purchasing a dehumidifier for the grow room. So for example (excerpt of something I've written)
Rapid temperature drops at night cause humidity to jump upward, often to extreme levels. This comes down to the dew point.
Put simply, dew point occurs because of the relationship between humidity and temperature and the fact that warm air can hold more water than cool air. Therefore, when the lights in the grow room go off and the temperature begins to drop the air contracts and RH increases because as molecules get closer together, less space exists between them to store water vapor. When the temperature drops to a point where there is more vapor in the air than it can hold, the humidity is forced out of the air. The dew point is, therefore, the point at which water begins falling out of the air. When dew point occurs, water droplets will form on any surface that is cooler than the air; in the case of a grow room, this can mean moisture begins forming on the plants. When this happens, the risk of mould spores germinating on the outer plant material increases.
……….…………….. And then you have daytime RH to consider also. Basically though you need to keep humidity low at nights and day when flowers are forming.
I mean there are also other things you can do such as install HEPA filtration to keep fungal spores out of the grow room but this is often a bit too tech and expensive for a lot of growers; however, I've consulted on a few large commercial grow operations and we have installed HEPA filtration and created fully sealed environments with great success (fungal spores are in the air everywhere in high numbers outdoors and HEPA filters keep them from entering a sealed indoor grow environment = no fungal spores indoors = no fungal pathogen outbreaks in the crop).
With fungal pathogens it really comes down to keeping humidity at levels that don't promote their growth on the plant. In many cases this means purchasing a dehumidifier for the grow room. So for example (excerpt of something I've written)
Rapid temperature drops at night cause humidity to jump upward, often to extreme levels. This comes down to the dew point.
Put simply, dew point occurs because of the relationship between humidity and temperature and the fact that warm air can hold more water than cool air. Therefore, when the lights in the grow room go off and the temperature begins to drop the air contracts and RH increases because as molecules get closer together, less space exists between them to store water vapor. When the temperature drops to a point where there is more vapor in the air than it can hold, the humidity is forced out of the air. The dew point is, therefore, the point at which water begins falling out of the air. When dew point occurs, water droplets will form on any surface that is cooler than the air; in the case of a grow room, this can mean moisture begins forming on the plants. When this happens, the risk of mould spores germinating on the outer plant material increases.
……….…………….. And then you have daytime RH to consider also. Basically though you need to keep humidity low at nights and day when flowers are forming.
I mean there are also other things you can do such as install HEPA filtration to keep fungal spores out of the grow room but this is often a bit too tech and expensive for a lot of growers; however, I've consulted on a few large commercial grow operations and we have installed HEPA filtration and created fully sealed environments with great success (fungal spores are in the air everywhere in high numbers outdoors and HEPA filters keep them from entering a sealed indoor grow environment = no fungal spores indoors = no fungal pathogen outbreaks in the crop).
Anyone have a opinion on using Subdue Maxx and Rootshield WP together?
* subdue Maxx is listed on root shields wp manual as combine suggestion for success, also saw a few threads saying other wise.
* I realize that it’s not regulated for cannabis, for my understanding it looks pretty safe and quite a few top members were suggesting it on here about bad root molds ( along time ago thou). If you argue otherwise or could show proof not to use Subdue Maxx I’m sure a lot of people would want to know/ me too.
heres a old link for Subdue Maxx on thc farmer
https://www.thcfarmer.com/community...se-here-everyday-fusarium-solani.51997/page-4
For those that don't know, I.E. myself what do you mean by proactive cultural growing practices? Thanks
@SinCity , I think you were looking for info like this last week...
@SinCity , I think you were looking for info like this last week...
@SinCity , I think you were looking for info like this last week...
lmao...………….@Burned Haze , @Glow, @3 balls --just so we're all clear, i'm a chick. @Rootbound has me straight up flirting with him in public! sorry but that shit just kinda swept me off my feet....:ninja:
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