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Sulfer Burning For Pm

  • Thread starter Thread starter Michigandude
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Sulfer Burning For Pm

Michigandude 29 Replies 3,886 Views
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Michigandude

Michigandude

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#1
So my last batch had got PM in flower and it spread to my current batch back when it was in veg. I had gotton rid of the PM completely and fixed my problem of high humidity and low temps while the lights were off. Currently on week 3 of flower and it came back. Light are on 5PM to 5AM. Did a 4 hour sulfer burn this morning from 07:30 to 11:30 with all lights, fans and filters off. Turned fans and filters back on an hour after I had finished burning at 12:45. Lights came on at 5PM and I still see the white PM dust on the leaves. So my question is, does it not die off right away or will it slowly disappear? Should I keep picking off the leaves I see it on?
 
#3
You could lollipop em good and remove some big fans where they lay on top of each other to help them out. Couple good sulfur burns maybe even 3 when ya see the stuff..one burn is more for maintenance imo. You might see mold still but it will start fading off. I'm a huge fan of horsetail tea foliar if it pops up late flower. Also Oxidate 2.0 for late flower works wonders as well. Make sure your humidity isn't spiking beyond what your dehumidifier can handle right at lights out when they dump a ton of water and keep the air moving at night as well.
 
#5
I keep the wall fans running 24/7, after the last batch came down I bleached the entire room from top to bottom 3 times and did a sulfer burn after I brought them into the flower room in the beginning just as a preventive maintenance. Still came back but my humidity stays between 40 and 52% the whole time lights are on off. Main question was about the spores still being visible after the burn. I plan on doing a small 1 hour burn tomorrow during lights off on the other half of the room. Also plan on doing another full 4-5 hour burn next weekend as well and hopefully it should be good. Friday is the start of week 4 and I really don't want to burn when the buds start progressing.
 
#6
The first week of flower I was aware my humidity was rising to 85% at night which I fixed asap when I figured that out. I had added 2x more wall fans as well as a dehumidfier and added the carbon filter/fans to timers so they shut off when the lights go off helping to raise the nighttime room temperature. So now my room is fully climate controlled but I'm thinking that week of high humidity is what brought it back.
 
#7
You could add some uv light during flower
 
#9
Thanks for the fan cleaning tutorial jorge lol
 
#10
I have a few Lush Lighting Dominator 2xxl's LED's in the middle of the room. They both put out infared and UV. Would like to get more down the road but they're kind of pricey.
 
#11
I watched the video, now wouldn't that affect the flavor of the buds?
 
#12
I bet it would taste better than mold spores, I would't use any green cleaner or neem or anything on my flowers.
 
#13
I've burned for 3 straight days in a row at 4-5 hours each time years ago..no ill effects..I think my plants actually loved the sulfur man. The spike was def it..from what i know it's been a bad year for pm in a lot of areas this year..folks are breathing it in all the time. If after you burn sulfur and it pops up again late flower..get on it immediately with horsetail tea or Oxidate and it will kill it off. Spores like to embed in plant tissue, and with the right conditions it will bloom. Just don't get lazy, and have a back up plan besides sulfur for late flower, and you'll eventually purge it from the grow entirely. If you are bringing in fresh air..maybe try a sunleaves intake filter or hepa filter..at least a quality furnace filter.
Don't let your pots dry out too much. Start a plan to boost the brix levels and induce a SAR response early in your plants life. Look into silica..chitosan..yucca..aloe..and a product called Regalia which is giant knotweed extract.
 
#15
sulfur and the other things I mention will be enough..you don't want to wash the sulfur off..just be patient. GC is terrible in flower..fries the hairs and can burn the leaves. It's only temporarily effective at best
 
#17
Oxidate 2.0 at 15ml/gal..is pretty expensive..but depending on the size of your grow could be worth the expense.

Horsetail Tea is very cheap in bulk. This recipe can be halved for a smaller amount. Boil 4 cups of water..once water is boiling pour 1 oz (about 3/4 of a beer cup) of HT into the pot..put on the lid..turn the heat down to medium and let steep for 20 minutes. Strain over a fine metal strainer into a gallon pitcher and add enough water to make one full gallon. That should bring the temps down cool enough to spray immediately. Soak plants. If you have leftovers you can refigerate for up to a few days. If you see PM forming spray 3 days in a row..and spray once per week after as maintenance. Can be used up to harvest without any ill effects, except it may turn a few hairs depending on how late in flower you spray. HT is nothing short of amazing and I've been preaching it's use for a long time. It beats the pants of of things like horticultural oil, neem, green cleaner, etc. It can even be added as a soil drench to increase silica content.
IME most plants will recover even from a bad infection, but some plants are just too sick or weakened to fully recover from PM and you will see it try to make a comeback in the central cola parts. Ditch them if you have to. Sometimes good sulfur burning is enough..really depends on plant immunity..environment and strain of PM. Stay dilligent and you will be successful.
 
#18
I think I'm going to try the oxidate next time I water. I'm going to do so e research on it myself as well but can you fill me in more on that? And can you get both at a regular hydro shop?
 
#19
To be honest with you, I've never used it myself. A cali breeder friend of mine just started using it and he says that it does work. 15ml/gal foliar for PM and 2-3ml/gal in the rez for pyth. That is all I do know..except that yes you can use it in late flower. I could only find it for sale online and seems the smallest size was 2.5 gallons. My guess is that it works like a fungicide like hydrogen peroxide or sodium chlorite. How long or how many days it needs to be applied is not something I enquired about. Most likely as a spot treatment if it pops up again.
HT if used per regiment is very effective as well. After a good series of sulfur burns..you should be on the fast track to recovery..especially if the humidity and air flow are kept in check. Either the HT or Oxidate should be used as a back up plan if a small amount re-surfaces in flower and it's too late to burn sulfur.
 
#20
Alright thanks, I did a 3 hour burn again today and am planning to do one final burn again next weekend. How about eagle 20 during flower?
 
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