NexusLH said:

View attachment 2463196View attachment 2463197

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Exactly! You can already spot all the nodes that will turn into new main branches. Thou shall create a monster this way in no time.

All that's left is re adjust every day (even hours, i have to do it twice a day)

TannedViking said:

Exactly! You can already spot all the nodes that will turn into new main branches. Thou shall create a monster this way in no time.

All that's left is re adjust every day (even hours, i have to do it twice a day)

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Thank you so much for the help! I look forward to seeing the growth from here on out! how far along are you into your grow?

NexusLH said:

Thank you so much for the help! I look forward to seeing the growth from here on out! how far along are you into your grow?

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No problem, just get us some pics when they're ready.

I'm 2 months in and did the exact same thing (:

TannedViking said:

I'm 2 months in and did the exact same thing (:

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I'll try and do a weekly update to this thread as time goes on.

Update less than 24 hrs after bend!!!!!

My plants are doing fantastic as far as I can tell. Less than 24hrs ago I bent the main stem at about a 90 and the fan leaves and new main branches have grown so much. Thank you @TannedViking for the advice!

NexusLH said:

Hey y'all. Just wanted to get everyone's input and ideas on super soil recipes. As of my first grow, I am using this recipe mix for every 10 gallons (split into 2 5-gallon buckets)

1/3 good, clean black dirt or peat moss
1/3 worm castings
1/3 perlite
(I use that for pretty much all sizes from little pots to 60-gallon drum)

1/2 cup blood meal (N-P-K) (12-0-0)
1 cup bone meal (N-P-K) (4-12-0)
1/2 cup dolomite lime
1.2tbsp Epsom salt (unscented & NO ADDITIVES)

Now this is my first grow with this mixture, so I will add updates as time goes on, but so far, no complaints. my plants are super healthy, and no signs of stress. If you wanted to use this recipe for a bigger quantity I would let your mixture "cook" for a week or so before use so you don't get any type of nutrient burn. If anyone else has any other recipes, please post I would love to try new things and get the most yield out of my plants

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No potassium?

RootFarmer said:

No potassium?

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I guess I over looked that part…ooops any suggestions?

NexusLH said:

I guess I over looked that part…ooops any suggestions?

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Oh you know, just a minor thing......

You need some sulfur too but not more magnesium. You have that in the dolomite. That amount of Epsom Salts won't provide enough sulfur. Try Potash/potassium sulfate or biochar. I wouldn't recommend kmag/Langbeinite because of the magnesium. Throw your calmag ratio out of balance and all kinds of things can get out of whack.

I have used a version of Vics supesrsoil with good results and will mix another soon ( I read he's passed over ).. feelin old now

And with stuff that is available where we live .. bunnings county :D

100 litres .. really big wheelbarrow full .. like overflowing of prefered soil mix
7.5 kg worm castings
2 kg blood and bone .. hard to get separately where we live
500 g of agi lime .. if using a good dolomite adjust accordingly
100 g of epsom salts

trace elements
one level tea spoon .. then one more for grandma

wet down turn once or twice over 3 weeks . should be good to use

smallspace said:

I have used a version of Vics supesrsoil with good results and will mix another soon ( I read he's passed over ).. feelin old now

And with stuff that is available where we live .. bunnings county :D

100 litres .. really big wheelbarrow full .. like overflowing of prefered soil mix
7.5 kg worm castings
2 kg blood and bone .. hard to get separately where we live
500 g of agi lime .. if using a good dolomite adjust accordingly
100 g of epsom salts

trace elements
one level tea spoon .. then one more for grandma

wet down turn once or twice over 3 weeks . should be good to use

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Definitely I just found this recipe online I’m not sure who posted it originally but that sounds familiar so credit definitely to him! But so far I love this mix I have had no issues and my plant seem to bounce right back after any type of stress from topping or LST! I do have a concern with a top soil dressing as time goes on. My plan was to just water it until end of its cycle cause of the n uts I added to the mix but as I read more others have added nutes throughout the plants cycle. How fast do the nutes gets used in my soil mixture and what’s a good top soil fertilizer to slowly release nutes over time?

Did you end up using peat moss or native soil?

RootFarmer said:

Did you end up using peat moss or native soil?

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My wife’s uncle sells black dirt from his cattle pastures so i just used that case it was free

NexusLH said:

How fast do the nutes gets used in my soil mixture and what’s a good top soil fertilizer to slowly release nutes over time?

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Rule of thumb I've always heard: Your soil has 3 weeks of bioavailable nutrition in it at any given time, assuming at least 3 prior weeks of proper soil health (the microbiome going hard while the nonbioavailable inputs are also present, and sugar). This basically means amend with sugar every 3 or so weeks with inoculation and further amending of non-carbs being as you see fit based on experience. This means that if you are a flusher, you stop everything 3 weeks out from your flush...which can easily look like only amending once in preflower indoors...

Some living web notes from my time (indoors) before swapping to seed to crop hydro tek:
- buying prepared soil means your clock between required amending has started/likely pest pathogen contamination/best bet is to store the bag long enough to kill it all then re inoculate it to fire it back up
- never underestimate what you are emulating indoors...many of these blends contain the most exotic of sources from across the world like bat feces/fish guts/fruit sugars from the corners of the earth/kelp from every ocean/worm juice/sea bird urine solids/broad microbiome fighting between healthy and bad bad at all times (just like the soil outdoors), if you're sensitive respiratory-wise...seal that room up with negative pressure/wear not only masks but rubber shoulder high gloves/goggles/rubber apron and have OpSec when it comes to your health [this reason is the reason I swapped to hydro, I lost my negative pressure setup when I sold a property]
- there will be tons of great products with terrible morals, anyone who is anyone in this space of living webs and true soil expertise will tell you that you should be shipping in the absolute minimum amount of goods. I guarantee you can find a fire local place with the dankest soil offerings you can imagine, right near you, with local loops being closed....rather than creating dozens and dozens of new loops just for the purpose of getting you something that was available down the street anyway, just under a local brand not 'Giga Super Soil Bad Ass Cool Stuff' brand
- i'd read up on the current state of the science, because it is pretty wild....we have scientific support for the complete lack of pesticides in strong LS webs, have support for highest secondary metabolite production in strong LS webs, and more. The newest stuff is showing that you will never get close to a LS web grown crop if done right, without a living input web (see things like mhycho/endo/rhizo research, namely endophytes and their relationship to both trichome contents and seed production)....then def look into humic/fulvics and what they do and why and how
- there is nothing wrong with inoculate amending too...stuff like Great White and Recharge are grade A gas for any LS web if used correctly...most brewing or fermentation processes at the end of the day are all a battle between the good and bad microbiome, bolster their war efforts


Anything from GrowWithGrease fits into anyone's LS op

NexusLH said:

I guess I over looked that part…ooops any suggestions?

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Im gonna quote my first post:
"I would have added a source of potassium like kelp meal which also has a lot of other goodies like aminos, vitamins and enzymes"
Potassium sulfate like mentioned before is another alternative but it wont contain as many goods as kelp, if you use both you can get more sulfur, potassium and also the goodies from kelp. Or you can use kelp and elemental sulfur.

Quoting from google:
Kelp meal, derived from dried seaweed, is a valuable soil amendment and animal feed supplement, offering a rich source of minerals, vitamins, and growth hormones. It's known for enhancing plant growth, improving soil structure, and boosting animal health.

Key components and benefits:

• Minerals:
  Kelp meal contains a wide array of minerals, including iodine, iron, calcium, magnesium, zinc, and manganese. These minerals are crucial for various plant and animal functions, including enzyme production and overall health.
  
  
• Vitamins:
  It provides vitamins like A, C, B12, thiamin, and E.
  
  
• Growth Hormones:
  Kelp meal naturally contains auxins, gibberellins, and cytokinins, which are plant growth regulators that promote root development, cell division, and shoot elongation.
  
  
• Amino Acids:
  It contains 21 amino acids, which are essential for protein synthesis and various biological processes.
  
  
• Chelated Trace Minerals:
  Kelp meal's minerals are chelated, meaning they are bound to organic molecules, making them more easily absorbed by plants and animals.
  
  
• Soil Improvement:
  Kelp meal can improve soil structure, increase water retention, and enhance the soil's ability to hold nutrients.
  
  
• Stress Resistance:
  Kelp meal can help plants and animals withstand environmental stresses like drought, salinity, and extreme temperatures.

Applications:

• Soil Amendment:
  Kelp meal can be incorporated into soil for gardens, lawns, and agricultural fields to improve soil health and plant growth.
  
  
• Animal Feed:
  It can be added to animal feed as a supplement to provide essential nutrients and support overall health.
  
  
• Composting:
  Kelp meal can be added to compost piles to enhance the decomposition process and enrich the compost with nutrients.

Typical Analysis:

• Crude Protein: Around 3%
• Crude Fat: Around 1%
• Crude Fiber: Around 8%
• Ash: Around 30%
• Moisture: Around 12%
• Nitrogen (N): Varies, but around 1%
• Phosphorus (P): Varies, but around 0.1-0.2%
• Potassium (K): Varies, but around 1.7-2%

Important Considerations:

• Application Rates:
  Recommended application rates vary depending on the specific product and intended use, so it's crucial to follow the manufacturer's instructions.
  
  
• Slow-Release:
  Kelp meal is a slow-release fertilizer, so its effects may not be immediately visible.
  
  
• Environmental Considerations:
  Kelp meal is a sustainable and natural product, making it a good choice for organic farming and gardening.

You can also buy liquid concentrated kelp. Just an example, pretty sure you can find it cheaper:

Cold pressed is important as it retains way more goodies.

NexusLH said:

My wife’s uncle sells black dirt from his cattle pastures so i just used that case it was free

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I was wondering because native soil and peat moss don't necessarily behave the same way.

Eledin said:

You can also buy liquid concentrated kelp. Just an example, pretty sure you can find it cheaper:
View attachment 2464257
Cold pressed is important as it retains way more goodies.

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thanks I will give this a try

Kelp is always a good addition. It has many benefits but I don't think it's necessarily a good stand alone source of potassium. You'll also need a sulfur source for cannabinoid and terpene synthesis.

As @ATLien415 mentioned a couple of good microbial inoculant products. Bokashi is a good source of PGPRs. I like All Seasons Bokashi. One product that I've used for a few years is a sister product of Great White. It's made by the same company. They just boosted it with seaweed extract and humic acids. You can get it in small packets at Walmart for under $5. I first bought it on a lark a few years ago. I've used it alongside other popular stuff and it always seems to outperform. Just mix it in water at half strength mixed with some molasses twice a month. That's usually enough. I like to let it brew overnight to get a good start on microbial growth. This year I'm premixing it in my soil to see how that works. Along with the LABs and Rhodobacter in the Bokashi it should be interesting.

When you have a healthy, thriving rhizobiome, you have a very efficient system setup. Water and nutrient needs are reduced. TBH any decent product is worth the investment.