The Clear

JewyDabz · Sep 10, 2016

dab science said:
has anyone tried takeing your oil winterizing it then doing this then short path distillation my guess is your clear would actually be clear not amber? because of the decollorant agent i picked this one in particullar because it says it leaves behind aromas and takes the color so i would guess it would not filter the terps out so you could collect them aswell? just a guess im in no way a educated chemist just a hobbyist any feedback would be greatly appreciated

Could the bleaching clay be used to skip the step of winterization?

Graywolf · Sep 11, 2016

We do it after winterization, while the solution is still in the alcohol.

Winterization takes out the fats and waxes, while bleaching removes the more polar elements like anthro cyanin plant pigments.

XxNomadxX · Sep 12, 2016

I am struggling with color of my BHO oil as well. I am shooting for an amber color but can only get it to a light brownish color :( Any suggestions on how to control the color would be greatly appreciated.

dab science · Sep 12, 2016

XxNomadxX said:
I am struggling with color of my BHO oil as well. I am shooting for an amber color but can only get it to a light brownish color :( Any suggestions on how to control the color would be greatly appreciated.

maybe its a tempature issue further down the line from the alcohol step? i know when its broken down in alcohol after you winterize it and filter it you can turn a greenish color alcohol to a light golden amber alcohol by setting the jar of alcohol in the sun for a few hours but check frequently cuz if you leave it to long it will go from light to dark from over exposure to the sunlight........ this was done useing sugar leaves mostly

Graywolf · Sep 13, 2016

XxNomadxX said:
I am struggling with color of my BHO oil as well. I am shooting for an amber color but can only get it to a light brownish color :( Any suggestions on how to control the color would be greatly appreciated.

Starting with strain, Sativas tend to be lighter colored than Indicas.

Extracts harvested when the trichomes are clear, are lighter colored than those extracted after the trichomes turn amber.

The monoterpenes and the cannabinoids for the most part have little color. It's the C-30 size molecules that include the anthro cyanin plant pigments, which are glucosides (plant sugars). Not only are they dark colored, but they can be caramelized and darkened further with heat and/or time.

Chlorophyll is also a C-30 sized molecule and should be minimal with a non polar butane/propane extraction, but can be bleached using UV to turn it into its breakdown products, which are amber colored.

We minimize color by extracting material young enough to not be caramelized, using a 50/50 butane/propane mix, which we chilled to -40C before extracting material frozen to -18C/0F, and extracted using cotton candy techniques.

We keep it light colored, by minimizing heat during purging.

If we winterize, we may bleach the oil using bentonite clays and chromatography beads, to further lighten it.

We use vacuum (-28" Hg) and less heat, in a rotary evaporator, to recover the alcohol.

XxNomadxX · Sep 13, 2016

Graywolf said:
Starting with strain, Sativas tend to be lighter colored than Indicas.

Extracts harvested when the trichomes are clear, are lighter colored than those extracted after the trichomes turn amber.

The monoterpenes and the cannabinoids for the most part have little color. It's the C-30 size molecules that include the anthro cyanin plant pigments, which are glucosides (plant sugars). Not only are they dark colored, but they can be caramelized and darkened further with heat and/or time.

Chlorophyll is also a C-30 sized molecule and should be minimal with a non polar butane/propane extraction, but can be bleached using UV to turn it into its breakdown products, which are amber colored.

We minimize color by extracting material young enough to not be caramelized, using a 50/50 butane/propane mix, which we chilled to -40C before extracting material frozen to -18C/0F, and extracted using cotton candy techniques.

We keep it light colored, by minimizing heat during purging.

If we winterize, we may bleach the oil using bentonite clays and chromatography beads, to further lighten it.

We use vacuum (-28" Hg) and less heat, in a rotary evaporator, to recover the alcohol.

Thanks for the info GW, I will look into the bleaching process. What would you recommend as far as soak time for the plant material during the extraction process? I am looking for the best return as possible, so I have been adjusting soak times in my extractor to see what yields the best results.

Graywolf · Sep 14, 2016

Soaking increases the yield, but much of it is non targeted C-30 molecules, so the quality declines. C-30 includes plant waxes, chlorophyll, anthro cyanin plant pigments, and some flavonoids.

I consider utility at the margin, with regard to the diminishing returns offered by soaking off the last little bit, and normally just flood approximately two volumes from the bottom and one rinse from the top. I determine the exact flood times by monitoring the color of the flow passing through the sight glass.

If you extract -18C/0F material, using a subzero LPG mix, you can extend the flood times without proportionally increasing the pickup of C-30 molecules, because they become more less soluble as the temperature drops, than the C-10 through C-22 cannabinoids.

dab science · Sep 26, 2016

Graywolf said:
Starting with strain, Sativas tend to be lighter colored than Indicas.

Extracts harvested when the trichomes are clear, are lighter colored than those extracted after the trichomes turn amber.

The monoterpenes and the cannabinoids for the most part have little color. It's the C-30 size molecules that include the anthro cyanin plant pigments, which are glucosides (plant sugars). Not only are they dark colored, but they can be caramelized and darkened further with heat and/or time.

Chlorophyll is also a C-30 sized molecule and should be minimal with a non polar butane/propane extraction, but can be bleached using UV to turn it into its breakdown products, which are amber colored.

We minimize color by extracting material young enough to not be caramelized, using a 50/50 butane/propane mix, which we chilled to -40C before extracting material frozen to -18C/0F, and extracted using cotton candy techniques.

We keep it light colored, by minimizing heat during purging.

If we winterize, we may bleach the oil using bentonite clays and chromatography beads, to further lighten it.

We use vacuum (-28" Hg) and less heat, in a rotary evaporator, to recover the alcohol.

you think i could drop dry ice in my ethanol to speed up a winterizing process? if so would this affect what solidify s in my alcohol during the winterizing process?

Graywolf · Sep 27, 2016

dab science said:
you think i could drop dry ice in my ethanol to speed up a winterizing process? if so would this affect what solidify s in my alcohol during the winterizing process?

Probably! Worth a try with a small sample. We've had good luck speeding it up by setting the mixture into an alcohol/DI bath.

Not sure what effect the bubbling will have.

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