The part where I win

dankworth · Jun 19, 2012

Think I'll run some uvb lamps like flowamasta to compensate for the glass in the way.
Next time anyways.

Shady · Jun 22, 2012

Sick setup, especially the suspended ceiling dankworth! Plants are looking fat... Just curious, is the interveinal chlorisis on some of those leaves due to lockout, nute burn, and/or too much light?

dankworth · Jun 22, 2012

Shady said:
Sick setup, especially the suspended ceiling dankworth! Plants are looking fat... Just curious, is the interveinal chlorisis on some of those leaves due to lockout, nute burn, and/or too much light?

All of the above probably. Too much light to get nutes to the top parts of the plants effectively without foliaring, but can't do that safely cause flowers are too big. Also lockout happens from time to time when ph drifts too much, but that has not happened lately.

Kind of looks like cal def/overlighting. The lower nugs, though, show none of that, beautiful green spines, no chlorosis.

This was an experiment to some degree, overlighting the tops so I could still ensure premium material lower on the bearing surface of the plant with sufficient light intensity down there.

The solution in my mind is to produce slightly taller plants, and reduce the light intensity from overhead, and add verts lower in the canopy. So I could have optimized levels of light intensity throughout the bearing surface of the plant, without having to overlight the tops past what they can effectively transport nutes to.

Trying to get a roadmap on bigass popsicles that do not have to be shaved all rigorously, thus cutting down on veg time needed to produce a certain amount, and also trying to gear that roadmap towards being able to cut down the whole plant and have the whole thing be at the same level of ripeness. That way larger rooms could get taken down and turned over faster, cutting down the total cycle time per crop.

Good question Shady, thanks for asking. Been a fan of your work since I started lurking back in '09.

Capulator · Jun 22, 2012

Dude,

I have a little extra reflectix if you need to do another layer.

-Cap

fishwhistle · Jun 22, 2012

cap,with the extra he lined his sock drawers,lol.

dankworth · Jun 22, 2012

Capulator said:
Dude,

I have a little extra reflectix if you need to do another layer.

-Cap

Dude I will use that! I will create a light tunnel like those skylight light tube things that funnel the light into my pocket.

fishwhistle said:
cap,with the extra he lined his sock drawers,lol.

Gonna use some of that orca stuff as per downwithdirt's recommendation when I have the scratch.
Mostly so I can use the word "orca" and get mileage for jokes about women that are unwilling to manage how much(and what) they eat.
Remember "orca fat" from The Usual Suspects?

Shady · Jun 22, 2012

Right on dankworth... I had that exact same chlorisis on huge mature fan leaves in the upper canopy when I ran coco and those leaves were directly under the HPS, while upper leaves just on the perimeter had that perfect green color throughout. The lower canopy leaves also had the perfect green color. At the time I was convinced it was the light being too close and those leaves not getting enough Magnesium, as if they were being overworked. I'm sure my nutrient profile was also off as well using RO, CalMag, and GH 3 part for coco. In any event, I never really confirmed the cause and I'm gearing up for a coco run using H&G coco nutes... I guess I'll find out soon enough...

dankworth · Jun 22, 2012

Shady said:
Right on dankworth... I had that exact same chlorisis on huge mature fan leaves in the upper canopy when I ran coco and those leaves were directly under the HPS, while upper leaves just on the perimeter had that perfect green color throughout. The lower canopy leaves also had the perfect green color. At the time I was convinced it was the light being too close and those leaves not getting enough Magnesium, as if they were being overworked. I'm sure my nutrient profile was also off as well using RO, CalMag, and GH 3 part for coco. In any event, I never really confirmed the cause and I'm gearing up for a coco run using H&G coco nutes... I guess I'll find out soon enough...

Shady, early on I bumped up my Mg when I saw what looked like mag def. From 60 ppms proportionally to 73.5 ppms.
BTW my formula is about 120-60-300-145ish-73.5-whatever the sulfur is these days.
For this I use
MKP(sole source of P, also has K
Calcium Nitrate(sole source of N and of Ca. Works out well because I like Ca to be like 20% higher than N)
Epsom(mg sulfate, sole source of mg, also has that sulfur we like for dankness)
K sulfate(most of the K, and some sulfur to boot)

Those 4 salts comprise my flowering food. That and micros. I add boron. I like 5 ppms iron and 2 ppms boron total for these nute ratios.
AN connoisseur has a 7:3 iron:boron ratio for reference.
20 mule team borax is 11% boron, therefore 1 gram/liter has 110 ppms boron.
Just got some new micros(what up holmes) and will be playing with values a little, but will likely be preserving my 5:2 iron:boron ratio.
Going to bump iron so I can get the iron:manganese ratio to at least 1.5:1 as per some literature other folks were kind enough to link me.

Oh and I have seen recommended in a couple places to run a 4:2:1 K:Ca:Mg ratio, experience has shown that under my circumstances that this is actually a pretty ideal ratio to work with for this flowering food.

Edit-Shady I been bumping my P with guano teas like twice a week for a bit too. Put 30 mls of Sunleaves Indonesian bat guano in like a gallon and a half of water, bubble for 24 hours, strain. I add about 16 fluid ounces of this to the irrigation when I do this.

dankworth · Jun 23, 2012

Day 35? Pretty high.

Sideways for fishwhistle.

(right on schedule there is some fucking lint in my photo)
Right on schedule at day 35 she is showing a some withered pistils. Time for two weeks of MOAB soon. Will be doing 1.5 tsp(I measured around 5.5 grams/tsp) per 5 gals of res, which is halfway between their recommended doses. I will figure out what total P and K to run later, too high right now.
This cultivar blows the fuck up from MOAB, fortunately. She is already chunkier than usual due to the topdrip every 30-40 minutes or whatever as opposed to handwatering every 2 days in hempy buckets.

She smells great today. Close enough to the old set of smells I smelled back when she was all hella potent. But a little more complex and sophisticated due to the teas for sure. She is frosting up very nicely. I will be setting aside the two MH corners for me and homeys.

Dude I am glad I put in the hours doing the reflectix floor plates and suspended ceiling.

And for the record, Dan, I now have a fan on a stand blowing between two rows at the bottom of the plants. It works out rather well.

Capulator · Jun 23, 2012

I get the same chlorosis on leaves getting a shitload of light.

The way I see it is the leaves getting more light need more nutes. You know what corrects? A foliar a Ca25 followed by a foliar of mild nute solution the next day.

WeirdWentPro · Jun 24, 2012

Capulator said:
I get the same chlorosis on leaves getting a shitload of light.

The way I see it is the leaves getting more light need more nutes. You know what corrects? A foliar a Ca25 followed by a foliar of mild nute solution the next day.

Would you be comfortable foliar spraying flowers that large? I've always shied away from it.

cloudust · Jun 24, 2012

Now THAT is how to grow weed. Doin it like a pro, bro! :D:D:D

dankworth · Jun 24, 2012

WeirdWentPro said:
Would you be comfortable foliar spraying flowers that large? I've always shied away from it.

I am personally not comfortable spraying flowers of that size.

outwest · Jun 24, 2012

I've been pondering using a paint brush to foliage leaves only.

outwest

dankworth · Jun 24, 2012

outwest said:
I've been pondering using a paint brush to foliage leaves only.

outwest

Dude I was totally thinking the same thing, that is really funny. Banana Manna with a paintbrush. Soft bristles or foam?

kushtrees · Jul 4, 2012

I'm always late to the show haha

Looking good dank that's a crazy lookig strain u got there

I'm sure ur ganna kill it

midwestdensies · Sep 11, 2012

How did you end up liking your hater buckets? I've toyed around with the ideas and have done hempys and loved it for ease and consistency. I really liked this innovative system you put together. So I may do some testing with media choices and feed times in the 4 tough boxes I purchased.

Also how were the aeration frames compared to the typical net pots? I plan on doing a 3 week veg then in the buckets for 2-4 weeks before flip. Any and all info would be greatly appreciated thanks. MWD

dankworth · Oct 4, 2012

midwestdensies said:
How did you end up liking your hater buckets? I've toyed around with the ideas and have done hempys and loved it for ease and consistency. I really liked this innovative system you put together. So I may do some testing with media choices and feed times in the 4 tough boxes I purchased.

Also how were the aeration frames compared to the typical net pots? I plan on doing a 3 week veg then in the buckets for 2-4 weeks before flip. Any and all info would be greatly appreciated thanks. MWD

Hydroton/coco will outperform perlite/coco in my experience.
I will only use aeration frames for the rest of my career, they are that awesome. Bigger aeration frames are better in any application.
Fucking love the hater buckets, will be running them for as long as I keep doing this sort of thing. Will move progressively toward a dwc layer vs the swc layer I tested. More air is better in the water layer.
1 7 gal aeration frame per tote, pre-vegged however long, will rock. As soon as the roots hit the water, they freak the hell out.

An intermediate step would be to stick airstones in the passive res in hempy buckets. Should have done that before, talked myself out of it.

midwestdensies · Oct 4, 2012

dankworth said:
Hydroton/coco will outperform perlite/coco in my experience.
I will only use aeration frames for the rest of my career, they are that awesome. Bigger aeration frames are better in any application.
Fucking love the hater buckets, will be running them for as long as I keep doing this sort of thing. Will move progressively toward a dwc layer vs the swc layer I tested. More air is better in the water layer.
1 7 gal aeration frame per tote, pre-vegged however long, will rock. As soon as the roots hit the water, they freak the hell out.

An intermediate step would be to stick airstones in the passive res in hempy buckets. Should have done that before, talked myself out of it.

Thanks for the reply DW. I actually just received 6 aeration frames yesterday to put to work very soon until roots show then I will put into the system.
The system is based off your design but will be gravity fed and have the traditional hempy holes on the tough boxes for overflow. I'm thinking an opening with fitting at the bottom most part of the tote with a clear tube for height referencing for a small section that feeds the tote. Then of course top-dripped.
The frames I purchased were the 3 gallon size and I plan on putting two plants in the totes. Strain will be the deathstar..
Fwiw I've perused your threads for long hours picking up great tips from you and severely laughing at all the clowns you lay down. Your info is top notch with some of the greatest ideas for huge fucking plants in reliable systems while being less troublesome. Thanks again. If there's any other things along the way feel more than free to chime in say whatsup. MWD

dankworth · Oct 4, 2012

midwestdensies said:
Thanks for the reply DW. I actually just received 6 aeration frames yesterday to put to work very soon until roots show then I will put into the system.
The system is based off your design but will be gravity fed and have the traditional hempy holes on the tough boxes for overflow. I'm thinking an opening with fitting at the bottom most part of the tote with a clear tube for height referencing for a small section that feeds the tote. Then of course top-dripped.
The frames I purchased were the 3 gallon size and I plan on putting two plants in the totes. Strain will be the deathstar..
Fwiw I've perused your threads for long hours picking up great tips from you and severely laughing at all the clowns you lay down. Your info is top notch with some of the greatest ideas for huge fucking plants in reliable systems while being less troublesome. Thanks again. If there's any other things along the way feel more than free to chime in say whatsup. MWD

Clear tubes, if exposed to enough light, will grow algae. Easy enough to cover them with a small bit of pandafilm, and secure with a twist-tie though.
Thanks for the props, most of my good info came from the big kids at the site here like Jalisco Kid, northone, etc.

The part where I win

The part where I win

dankworth

Shady

Chillin' in the Shade...

dankworth

Capulator

likes to smell trees.

fishwhistle

dankworth

Shady

Chillin' in the Shade...

dankworth

dankworth

Capulator

likes to smell trees.

WeirdWentPro

cloudust

dankworth

outwest

Premium Gardener

dankworth

kushtrees

midwestdensies

dankworth

midwestdensies

dankworth

The part where I win

The part where I win

dankworth

Shady

Chillin' in the Shade...

dankworth

Capulator

likes to smell trees.

fishwhistle

dankworth

Shady

Chillin' in the Shade...

dankworth

dankworth

Capulator

likes to smell trees.

WeirdWentPro

cloudust

dankworth

outwest

Premium Gardener

dankworth

kushtrees

midwestdensies

dankworth

midwestdensies

dankworth

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