connoisseurde420
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Europonic Silicate is one of the more stronger store shelf brands. Slightly stronger than ArmorSi and Protekt. Rhino skin ans Silica Blast are very diluted. Almost all water.Silica is ideal, I've done runs with and without it and the difference is noticeable.. Wouldn't say it bumps yield like crazy but will help you get stronger stems which in turn keeps your girls upright instead of flopping over from heavy weight nugs.. Last run I was really happy with it I didn't have to many floppy Ogeez, they just leaned back a little this time which made the difference..
Btw if you can get AGR Bloom Silica (yellow bottles) it's the most bang for the buck in liquid form it has 40% silica, unless you like using dry version of silica..
Since I don't have it available I've been using Armor Si GH new silica it tops out at 10% silica which is better than rest of the brands out on shelves..
Potassium silicate is more effective at the root zone...in with your base solution but always mix it first. This was told to me by a guy in the industry that knows his shit.does using silica as a foliar do the same thing as using it in the rez? Im in coco DTW. How much silica do you use when you foliar and mix in rez or do you just use it to ph? What order do you mix it in if you add it directly to rez if not using it to ph up?
uhh its so key to make the stems stronger and also helps alot with bud rot and PM silica is really important and less stem rot with silica its not for yield its for plant health and making sure the plants are strong
No silica here either ... the wind tears and strengthens... so to mimic this indoor you take a stick and hit your plants in vegNo silica added and wow look at that stock
Problem today is most will follow what the next person does .
Be it some miracle additive or what have you
silica is the second most abundant mineral in the earths crust yet we know very little about it in theory ..
To much silica in a human body destroys the liver.
but like most think the importance of silica in our plants because someone told us so ..
Most peered reviews and scientific tests have been done with species like Rice wheat
and yes even tomatoes, Cucs etc ,
Truth is if silica was so important ??? why is it not on the essential list for plant growth ??? Chlorine is ..
One must realize that these companies claiming, all the benefits of silica for marijuana plants .
Fail to produce silica content on dry leaf matter verified tests results nope not one but they claim so many others
Many actual tests were done with silica added to sick plants , infested plants with insects it clearly showed silica additions helped nothing
Silica is suppose to help with stress and drought ?? Now tell me who growing marijuana in there tent purposely dries there plants up as to cause stress ???
Who here only uses Silica when there plants are infested with mites ???
So with that said if you think adding silica makes that much of a difference then by all means use it
but i ask these companies selling it like on this site being its a MJ site instead of claiming the benefits
When not show us some different tests from different soures on how much Silica to dry leaf matter there really is
I think people would be shocked how much they pay for a product yet plants used very little of it anyways ..
This is what it comes down to some plants or species like Rice have transporters to utilize Silica some species cannot
So the question is Fucking forget about rice and wheat tests done on Silica
Demand tests done on MJ plants .. Remember its legal now in many states and countries
why not actual MJ dry leaf silica content i know because there full of shit and sheep will use anything that they think will make there plants better
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Can I ask why you cut it during flower? And do you mean you cut it 100% or 50% or what?I do cut it in flower for the most part..if your runnin H&G the drip clean has a little potassium silicate in there and acts as a good flushing agent as well..I like the Dynagro ProTekt stuff myself but Barricade/Rhino Skin from AN, Silica Blast from Botanicare, or even Fasilator from Aptus all work great...Rarely do I run it flower though except the Fasilator and thats in ever feed start to finish with Aptus
What is the result of over doing it? Aside from money out the window...All that said, it is VERY easy to overdo the Si. The 'if a little is good, then more must be better' ideology must be tossed out the window on this one.
Its called positive phototropism...when plant leaves and branches "pray" towards the strongest light source. I take it as a sign that everything within the plant is on point and running on all cylinders.I want to be the first to point out that this looks like it was a thread revival. I want to be the first so that someone else doesn't point it out in a more dick-ish manner. I think a subject like this never really dies.
Can I ask why you cut it during flower? And do you mean you cut it 100% or 50% or what?
What is the result of over doing it? Aside from money out the window...
Here is my recipe in hydro
RO water
GW
Armor Si 5ml pg
Cali-Magic 10 ml pg
Gh Micro - 8 ml pg
Gh Bloom - 16 ml pg
Liquid KB - 5 ml pg
Liquid Karma 8 ml pg
PH to 6.5 and dilute to 1200 ppm or 1.6 EC. As it goes, I up the ppm a bit.
It's a banging hydro recipe if anyone wants to use it. But I have messed with every part of that recipe, both up and down, just to see what happens. My intention was to perfect the recipe, so I went about it as methodically as possible.
But the Armor was one that when I removed it totally, I noticed (clearly) that the leaf strength wasn't as pronounced. A healthy plant will splay the leaves out and angle towards the strongest light source. So, it may be at a 45* angle, or it may be horizontal. E.g. this plant is almost directly underneath the light so you see the leaf position
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You can see the leaves in this one, pointing towards a light source that is at a different angle
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And an extreme example of what I'm talking about. The leaves turning towards the light.
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So back to my point, I notice that when I omit the Armor, that structural rigidity isn't as strong. I don't know how much of a difference it makes in light absorption to the plant, I've just noticed that it plants aren't doing it as well. It could be placebo, I won't rule that out, but the plant doesn't seem to have the same manipulation capability. With it, and in hydro in perfect conditions, the plants on Armor almost seem to be actively finding the light. W/out it, they seem a little more passive. I don't know how else to describe it.
But if I go overboard with the Armor, I don't notice anything except clogged feed lines. For me, it seems like I'm just drawing the line based on what seems reasonable, and what is financially sensible, and that won't clog the lines.
So what is the effect of using too much?
When I use extra Cali-magic, the plants start to stink! It seems like they could take even more, but a line has to be drawn somewhere. If I use less CM they slow way down. I'm not meaning to turn this into a cali-magic discussion, just to show what I mean about Armor.
When I use too much Armor, I don't notice anything at all? But I'm sure it large ++'s of it must have some ill effect? If so, what is it?
Thank you. I wish I paid more attention in botany classes.Its called positive phototropism...when plant leaves and branches "pray" towards the strongest light source. I take it as a sign that everything within the plant is on point and running on all cylinders.
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