Jamz
- 28
- 3
The site admin has been playing around with new skins for us, that may have caused a bit of an upset. If the problem continues we need to let him know what's going on.Thank you for your response,
I am having trouble uploading pics even though they are within the requirements, trying to figure it out.
IME, that's usually a response to pH being off. But, we have a problem with that if you're growing in a truly organic, living soil food web style, and that problem is that plants and microbes have the ability to 'adjust' pH themselves (assuming they have the 'materials' to do it).The leaves that are burnt badly was from the previous micro def. and was corrected, and like you and my mentor has told me the necrosis won't get better and was not a concern. The new problem I am experiencing are the leaves showing lighter green on the edges with some slightly burnt. I have also noticed the ridges starting to curl upwards and the leaves are sometimes wavy or wrinkled.
Growing indoors, in pots, your biggest problem is that root zone. If the roots are cold, the plant cannot, and therefore will not take up available nutrients properly, nor can it utilize what's available or being directly fed to it. The roots are most important. A daytime high of 78* is fine, but a daytime high of 70*, in my experience growing in a God damned COLD room, is insufficiently warmed.The temp usually stays above 70 daytime but only up to about 78. On cold days it will drop below 70, but not all day and the coldest point would be 65. I was aware that colder then 60 is really bad, but didn't think below 70 was a major factor especially after the experienced gardener helping me has reassured me that it wasn't. On the other hand I have been a bit skeptical about some of the info he has taught me, so this is a good thing to know.
I'm not familiar enough with EJ to say for sure, but I've read plenty of people who are using the line with good results. However, being in the liquid form its in, it doesn't stay in the soil like rock dusts will. There's also the whole issue of what you're feeding and how. To me it reads like you're feeding the plant, and that's a difficult angle to take with regard to soil food web methods because it completely ignores the most important players--the food web constituents. They need to be fed, feed them, feed the soil, and they/that will feed the plant.The Microblast is actually Earth Juice and by what my mentor has told me everything i am using is organic, but like I said there is a possibility that this could be false and I guess I don't know the difference between true organic and chemically organic.
I like to separate the Ca from the Mg, and in doing so I learned a LOT, like how to tell a Ca- from a Mg-. If you have the Cal-Mag go ahead and use it, but from the pix you've posted I can't make out anything that suggests a Ca-, only Mg- and what may be a K-.I use GO Calmg+ at a rate of 5ml a gallon and have slowly increased to 8 Ml a gallon. The strain is a cross of skunk1 and chem dawg 91. I like to call it 911 ironically, heh. I was told this cross is CalMg hungry, so a mg- would make alot of sense. The bottle states 5 to 10 being the range for application, so I was going to increase to the maximum dosage next watering since my personal diagnosis through research was a mg- as well. I also do a series of foliars, including an insect frass spray which the hydro store owner told me has plenty of Mg. He also advised that cold water temp could lock up nutes so I bought a res heater, and have watered twice with warmer water. i understand that it may take a few days for signs of recovery so I am being patient.
I don't know if frass has Mg. Yes, you can use the Cal-Mag as a foliar, using about a quarter of the root feeding strength.Does insect frass really have Mg? And can cal mg+ be used as a foliar or is Epsom salt my only option?
As far as the flush goes, that's exactly what I was thinking because of the organic style. Now I am questioning the validity of my setup as true organic!
Thank you so much for your help! If you need more info I can provide it.
The site admin has been playing around with new skins for us, that may have caused a bit of an upset. If the problem continues we need to let him know what's going on.
IME, that's usually a response to pH being off. But, we have a problem with that if you're growing in a truly organic, living soil food web style, and that problem is that plants and microbes have the ability to 'adjust' pH themselves (assuming they have the 'materials' to do it).
Growing indoors, in pots, your biggest problem is that root zone. If the roots are cold, the plant cannot, and therefore will not take up available nutrients properly, nor can it utilize what's available or being directly fed to it. The roots are most important. A daytime high of 78* is fine, but a daytime high of 70*, in my experience growing in a God damned COLD room, is insufficiently warmed.
I'm not familiar enough with EJ to say for sure, but I've read plenty of people who are using the line with good results. However, being in the liquid form its in, it doesn't stay in the soil like rock dusts will. There's also the whole issue of what you're feeding and how. To me it reads like you're feeding the plant, and that's a difficult angle to take with regard to soil food web methods because it completely ignores the most important players--the food web constituents. They need to be fed, feed them, feed the soil, and they/that will feed the plant.
That's not to say don't use the EJ, it is to say that as you continue learning about this, you will learn what I posted above is true.
I like to separate the Ca from the Mg, and in doing so I learned a LOT, like how to tell a Ca- from a Mg-. If you have the Cal-Mag go ahead and use it, but from the pix you've posted I can't make out anything that suggests a Ca-, only Mg- and what may be a K-.
I don't know if frass has Mg. Yes, you can use the Cal-Mag as a foliar, using about a quarter of the root feeding strength.
I am working towards getting myself/farm registered and certified as organic (chickenman has been through this!), and while I am very into the whole organic thing, I hate the idea of being a Nazi about it. You're working toward it, allow yourself a learning curve, ok? In other words, IT'S OK if you're not 100% 'true' organic. You'll get there.
Get yourself the book Teaming with Microbes, start there.
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