tobh
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Yeah if PH is over 8 it's a good idea to ph to 6.5 before adding enything else. With silicate it need to mix well at high PH for some time before you PH it down then add nutrients. And always PH down again at the end to desired level.@Aqua Man for sure set you straight. I experienced similar swings before I started using potassium silicate as my buffering agent. Since you're using cal mag, your new process will look like:
RO -> alkaline buffer -> pH down -> cal mag -> rest of nutrient line
The most critical step I've learned is to allow whatever your alkaline buffer is to mix THOROUGHLY before moving forward. I tend to let it mix with the water for ~30 minutes before proceeding simply to ensure that whatever astronomical pH it's going to hit, is achieved and stable before bringing it back down to 6.5 and proceeding. Sure, it makes res change outs an hour long endeavor when all is said and done, but it eliminated 95% of my issues in hydro.
Because his ppm is 400 at this level of unknown and likely unfavorable makeup it will effect nutrient ratios, salinity ph stability.Someone tell me why the RO is necessary please.
And a basic carbon filter won't clean it?Because his ppm is 400
No.... carbon filters remove organic compounds like VOCs. They do not remove things like inorganic nutrients and dissolved minerals and will hardly if at all lower ppm by themselves. Basically they do nothing to lower ppmAnd a basic carbon filter won't clean it?
Interesting.No.... carbon filters remove organic compounds like VOCs. They do not remove things like inorganic nutrients and dissolved minerals and will hardly if at all lower ppm by themselves. Basically they do nothing to lower ppm
How many ppm do you think those makeup?Interesting.
I agree it shouldn't. And would likely be ok. Still best to know the makeup of that ppm but I'd say a starting ppm between 100-200 should almost always provide adequate PH buffering while not so much ppm as to influence ratios negatively.50% Tap water at 400ppm and 50% Ro water should balance out at around 210ppm, you shouldn't need much PH solution of either up or down.
I wouldnt that's dam near perfect and many would kill to have a nice starting ppm like that. Unless it's high in sodium I'd be thankful.My tap water is 95/105ppm
Should I buy a Ro unit
Even tho I have access to soft water?
I’ll look it out, I believe all my water has is small doses of chlorine controlled by the company, I’ll get back to you with the reportI wouldnt that's dam near perfect and many would kill to have a nice starting ppm like that. Unless it's high in sodium I'd be thankful.
If you want to post your water report I can break it down and see if anything may be of concern but I doubt it.
No more than 4ppm and I would bet less than 2ppm is used.I’ll look it out, I believe all my water has is small doses of chlorine controlled by the company, I’ll get back to you with the report
I believe this is what your afterNo more than 4ppm and I would bet less than 2ppm is used.
4ppm is the legal maximum allowable. It's not at all a concern and believe it or not chlorine is actually a micronutrient like iron, zink and others.
Yeah but the whole list. Eq. Iron is 52 ug/l that equates to 0.056ppm. So you understand how to read the reports. Most are in milligrams per L but your are in micrograms per L.I believe this is what your after
That was the whole listYeah but the whole list. Eq. Iron is 52 ug/l that equates to 0.056ppm. So you understand how to read the reports. Most are in milligrams per L but your are in micrograms per L.
If you can find the sodium and caco3 those will be the important ones. Caco3 is also listed sometimes as water hardness.That was the whole listI’ll look for more but I believe that’s all
Okay I found it,If you can find the sodium and caco3 those will be the important ones. Caco3 is also listed sometimes as water hardness.
Yeah your blessed with a very good water supply.Okay I found it,
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