First, we could really use more information. What's the pH of your feed and media? How strong are you feeding? Are you feeding the same strength every time? Are you letting the coir dry out?

Pix in normal white light would also be helpful.

Offhand, if it's leaf tip necrosis that's moving back and IF the petioles are reddened, I'm going to land on P utilization issue, possibly deficiency. Before suggesting how to proceed I'd like to know the answers to those other questions.

Seamaiden said:

First, we could really use more information. What's the pH of your feed and media? How strong are you feeding? Are you feeding the same strength every time? Are you letting the coir dry out?

Pix in normal white light would also be helpful.

Offhand, if it's leaf tip necrosis that's moving back and IF the petioles are reddened, I'm going to land on P utilization issue, possibly deficiency. Before suggesting how to proceed I'd like to know the answers to those other questions.

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PH is at a 6.4, I fed fairly strong this last go around thinking that it was nutrient deficiency. Feeding was at 3 tsp/gallon Floragro, 2tsp/gallon Flora Micro, and 1tsp/gallon florabloom. This was a larger feeding compared to normal as I have slowly been raising amounts now that they are out of the seedling stage. I have not been letting the coir dry out as my system just consistently trickle feeds.

72 is a bit too cold (imo). 82 more like it, and try to raise your rh a bit. Sorry, can't be any more help.

TheBeard said:

PH is at a 6.4, I fed fairly strong this last go around thinking that it was nutrient deficiency. Feeding was at 3 tsp/gallon Floragro, 2tsp/gallon Flora Micro, and 1tsp/gallon florabloom. This was a larger feeding compared to normal as I have slowly been raising amounts now that they are out of the seedling stage. I have not been letting the coir dry out as my system just consistently trickle feeds.

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Over feeding the lighter you feed your seedlings the better they grow .

TheBeard said:

PH is at a 6.4

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Ok, that's a bit too high. Get it to between 5.8-6.2. Usually 6.0 seems to be the perfect sweet spot for just about any strain I've done in coir. That said, I've seen that weird drying out and have never been able to determine for certain what causes it. Either way, getting pH back in range will help greatly in any event.

IIRC, the Flora may need Ca supplementation. You're shooting for a Ca:Mg ratio of 4:1 as a minimum, 6:1 most strains perform much better IME. Now is the time to start getting Ca laid down into plant tissues, and continue throughout until roughly 2 weeks prior to planned harvest.

your low vpd is contributing to the nute burn. check out this article on vpd.

One drop said:

Over feeding the lighter you feed your seedlings the better they grow .

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Ok, i'm doing a water change today so I'll put less in there this time. Thank you

Seamaiden said:

Ok, that's a bit too high. Get it to between 5.8-6.2. Usually 6.0 seems to be the perfect sweet spot for just about any strain I've done in coir. That said, I've seen that weird drying out and have never been able to determine for certain what causes it. Either way, getting pH back in range will help greatly in any event.

IIRC, the Flora may need Ca supplementation. You're shooting for a Ca:Mg ratio of 4:1 as a minimum, 6:1 most strains perform much better IME. Now is the time to start getting Ca laid down into plant tissues, and continue throughout until roughly 2 weeks prior to planned harvest.

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Ok, I've got Cal Mag arriving today, so I'll make sure to use it. As for PH, what is your recommended method? I know you can use white vinegar or citric acid, and baking soda to raise/lower. I just don't want to overstep my own knowledge and do something stupid. As I know very little compared to you folks that have been doing this for awhile.

jammie said:

your low vpd is contributing to the nute burn. check out this article on vpd.

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Thank you for this. This actually taught me alot. I'm raising my humidity along with temperature gradually once ups gets here with my supplies.

Yes that 3-2-1 tsp feed was too strong you wanna be around 800 ec on the meter at this stage and 1.2 as they start getting bigger. Also is best to use R.O filter water with your plant food to get your pH where it should be with out the need to use PH up or down, usually good quality plant food is pH balanced and best to mix in filter water.

m8ty said:

Yes that 3-2-1 tsp feed was too strong you wanna be around 800 ec on the meter at this stage and 1.2 as they start getting bigger. Also is best to use R.O filter water with your plant food to get your pH where it should be with out the need to use PH up or down, usually good quality plant food is pH balanced and best to mix in filter water.

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Ok. I've got my meter coming today as well so I will check it once it's here and calibrated. What would you recommend for plant food? I have the stuff I stated above along with the HESI line of nutrients. I've read HESI is good, however I trust y'alls experience over a couple of random companies that happen to sell the product they recommend

TheBeard said:

Ok, I've got Cal Mag arriving today, so I'll make sure to use it. As for PH, what is your recommended method? I know you can use white vinegar or citric acid, and baking soda to raise/lower. I just don't want to overstep my own knowledge and do something stupid. As I know very little compared to you folks that have been doing this for awhile.

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I like citric and phosphoric acid. If using phosphoric during flowering, you may need to adjust the P in the feeding.
(People who read me often are going to giggle because they know I like to use pee to feed my plants.)(Cuz it's FREE!!!)(WEEE!!!)

It appears you're mixing a reservoir and then using that for a period of time, correct? If so, you may observe bounce.

Also, check that label on the Cal-Mag, if the ratio is lower than 4:1 I really think you'll do yourself a favor by adding a bit of Ca from somewhere else. You could go with gypsum as a topdressing, add it to the reservoir (I'd start with around 1tsp/gal), or with a Ca-only product such as BioLink 6% Ca. When growing indoors, that's what I prefer. It can also be given as a foliar but if you're careful to keep sufficient Ca in the plants from the beginning you shouldn't need to.

Seamaiden said:

I like citric and phosphoric acid. If using phosphoric during flowering, you may need to adjust the P in the feeding.
(People who read me often are going to giggle because they know I like to use pee to feed my plants.)(Cuz it's FREE!!!)(WEEE!!!)

It appears you're mixing a reservoir and then using that for a period of time, correct? If so, you may observe bounce.

Also, check that label on the Cal-Mag, if the ratio is lower than 4:1 I really think you'll do yourself a favor by adding a bit of Ca from somewhere else. You could go with gypsum as a topdressing, add it to the reservoir (I'd start with around 1tsp/gal), or with a Ca-only product such as BioLink 6% Ca. When growing indoors, that's what I prefer. It can also be given as a foliar but if you're careful to keep sufficient Ca in the plants from the beginning you shouldn't need to.

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Free wee is great by me .

Seamaiden said:

Ok, that's a bit too high. Get it to between 5.8-6.2. Usually 6.0 seems to be the perfect sweet spot for just about any strain I've done in coir. That said, I've seen that weird drying out and have never been able to determine for certain what causes it. Either way, getting pH back in range will help greatly in any event.

IIRC, the Flora may need Ca supplementation. You're shooting for a Ca:Mg ratio of 4:1 as a minimum, 6:1 most strains perform much better IME. Now is the time to start getting Ca laid down into plant tissues, and continue throughout until roughly 2 weeks prior to planned harvest.

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Sorry to barge in but I just had to say since I followed seamaidens advice about cal mag ratios iv never looked back. I now use it at 4:1 in veg then 5:1 during stretch onwards. Plants are far happier now. So thank you Seamaiden.

You are most welcome! :D

After reading Sea's posts . I also did a pictured test her numbers are very good. I don't use cal/ mag at all I used them individually. While I was growing white strains and there decendants they use so much C that you end with Ntox because your chemistry is providing enough and Cal/mag has N in it. It comes on slowly about the 6 to 8 week veg.
I used to think she was just on a thing about it . Now not so much she has a lot of posts and a lot of questions from me. Defecencies should be fought the moment you see them. All end in some dead roots use and enzyme to let plant eat them. Think baseball you want to bat against 2 pitchers.
I have used coco for a coupla years now its not as easy as the box says. I have posted much about coco but if you want the source read cocojoe.
One fact I will put you in touch with today. Coco is a multi water meaning small pot need to be watered every 4 hours when lights are on with small pot you have to be careful about not letting it dry out and still having drain time.. Those plants need bigger pots and less snake oil nutrients they are young and don't need a 32oz Tbone feed them lightly till the are 12 to 14 inches then turn it up.
Last most of your leef problems are caused from the dead roots the ones trying to get out of the pot picking up something left in the tray. Standing water of any amount under your plants is a mistake.
For the first time I am usually telling folks to add fan. Not you around those plants you need a light moving breeze not moving the leaf structures that comes in a month.
They are too close togather. When they are older over 18 inches is fine but when small the plant senses the contact.
It also senses that is a relative. Some think that both slow down side ways growth and up becomes a race.
I am not that smart if they touch they react to the contact.
I have found that weed has a tap root and the straighter the better. when you transplant in dirt.
It stays togather and the main root is not effected. Not so in coco if you cause the tap root to change the angle ore make a bend the plant suffers. I used to transplant not anymore put my clones or seeds into the 3gal pot of coco and adjust food to the situation. Once you get into coco it is what coco is a box of brown nothing that is -C before you use it. Everthing that the ladies need you and your chemistry bring to them.
If you intend to do this seriously read
cocojoe
I have read as much of sea as I have time for and it's not a wasted time both garden and conex grow better.
Cap has some post about nutrients you might like.
I could go on but to start with these you would gain a lot.
Think about this you have taken a weed and dramatically changed the way it's gens think it should grow.
You have to make it want to grow and they need a lot of attention when young.
PH is a very serious thing in coco and is lower than dirt. 5.6 to.8 low end 6.1 to .2 high end.
Tempature effects PH if you use air stones it effects the ph. If your dog pisses in it will change
PH but might be good for plant.

Im a new grower anyone give me a message i need abit of advice about my cuttings thanks

these are mostly just overfed. that's 1250 ppm on tiny plants. should be feeding those 1/4-1/2tsp. micro+bloom and 1/2tsp. calimagic or a 5% ca calmag. 1tsp. micro, bloom, and calimagic = about 600ppm(full feed for 6"+ vegging plants). you don't need grow but you do need calmag or you end up running like 70ppm ca and 25ppm mg for a lot of your grow.

Cheesybuds said:

Im a new grower anyone give me a message i need abit of advice about my cuttings thanks

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You miss a few things start a thread with picutres and what your trying to do.
jumping in this thread is bad manners. Pictures are a must.
explain what and how even if your grammer is bad lots of us read it very well.