How long have they been in there current pot? Did you make sure you transplant before flower if they are photos?
Have you tested the soil ph? Should be 6.2-6.8 anything higher or lower will lock it out.

I think molasses is the cause or you just need potassium. Molasses seems to lock out K and I never touch it anymore because it always seemed to do this with my grows.

Homesteader said:

I think molasses is the cause or you just need potassium. Molasses seems to lock out K and I never touch it anymore because it always seemed to do this with my grows.

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What do you feed your microbes with when you brew ?

aubi280 said:

What do you feed your microbes with when you brew ?

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Water. My soil feeds the microbes. Sugars are a waste of time imo.

RealizedReal000 said:

How long have they been in there current pot? Did you make sure you transplant before flower if they are photos?
Have you tested the soil ph? Should be 6.2-6.8 anything higher or lower will lock it out.

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Clones in party cups and I transplant once in a 4gal pot. I normally dont transplant after that, never had issues, I will definitly check my runoff next time tho, never had issues with ph in living soil before

aubi280 said:

Clones in party cups and I transplant once in a 4gal pot. I normally dont transplant after that, never had issues, I will definitly check my runoff next time tho, never had issues with ph in living soil before

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Do not water with run off with dry ammendments. Take a slurry test. Get some soil and put it in water and test ph. You don’t want run off because it pushes out the microbes and nutes. But how long have they been in the current pot.

Also you don’t need the tea unless it is showing deficiencies. Your medium using dry ammendments should have everything you need. Could also be why it’s showing some burn.

RealizedReal000 said:

Also you don’t need the tea unless it is showing deficiencies. Your medium using dry ammendments should have everything you need. Could also be why it’s showing some burn.

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So I normally feed teas every other feeding ( once a week) in flower and it explode them real good. I tried to feed them teas every feeding see if I can get more out of it .. This happened instantly .. I believe I loc

RealizedReal000 said:

Do not water with run off with dry ammendments. Take a slurry test. Get some soil and put it in water and test ph. You don’t want run off because it pushes out the microbes and nutes. But how long have they been in the current pot.

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Since transplant from solo cup ( 1st week of veg ). I believe I have a K lockout because of too much molasses. I never transplanted twice and never had problems I believe this is not the issue !

Homesteader said:

I think molasses is the cause or you just need potassium. Molasses seems to lock out K and I never touch it anymore because it always seemed to do this with my grows.

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So i tought about it all night and yes I believe I locked out K with too much molasses. I normally feed teas every other feeding in flower. I wanted to experience every feed from week 3 and they did not appreciate I think. I just gave them a good straight water with 20% run off. I believe in teas tho. I see a huge difference when I feed teas, literraly in 24h00 period huge growth, so I will keep using teas. I will definitly cut molasses in half tho. I use molasses to feed the microbes in the tea , not to feed the plant. I wonder if I could use something else to feed the microbes in the tea.

aubi280 said:

So i tought about it all night and yes I believe I locked out K with too much molasses. I normally feed teas every other feeding in flower. I wanted to experience every feed from week 3 and they did not appreciate I think. I just gave them a good straight water with 20% run off. I believe in teas tho. I see a huge difference when I feed teas, literraly in 24h00 period huge growth, so I will keep using teas. I will definitly cut molasses in half tho. I use molasses to feed the microbes in the tea , not to feed the plant. I wonder if I could use something else to feed the microbes in the tea.

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Either cut the molasses when brewing the tea or brew longer to allow more consumption before adding to soil. But realistically you should probably limit tea waterings to every third watering similar to liquid fertilization scheduals. Regardless of the inputs, too much ends up asking too much of the soil and too much of the plant.

Farmer88 said:

Either cut the molasses when brewing the tea or brew longer to allow more consumption before adding to soil. But realistically you should probably limit tea waterings to every third watering similar to liquid fertilization scheduals. Regardless of the inputs, too much ends up asking too much of the soil and too much of the plant.

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Yeap thanks for the advices. Will give a second water feed in 3 days and then will cut molasses in half + brew an extra 12h That locked pretty good. Low yield incoming

Think of it this way. Molasses is about 6% Potassium give or take (I don't know the N or the P but assuming 0 for this) every watering you are giving the plant 0-0-6 unless I am mistaken. Cannabis doesn't need all that much K.
I know lots of people are into teas and I'm not trying to sway anyone. It really depends on your soil. If your soil isn't enough, you need teas. Build the soil rich and you can skip that step. Soil microbes want a certain ratio to build. Carbon....Nitrogen......Phos.....and a lesser extent Sulfur. Build a soil rich in carbon and you bypass the need for sugars at least IMO. I think that ratio is amazing and wish more were into learning about it. Build a soil that feeds microbes in a ratio of 100 : 10 : 10 : 1 CNPS and see what happens. Magic.

Agr

Homesteader said:

Think of it this way. Molasses is about 6% Potassium give or take (I don't know the N or the P but assuming 0 for this) every watering you are giving the plant 0-0-6 unless I am mistaken. Cannabis doesn't need all that much K.
I know lots of people are into teas and I'm not trying to sway anyone. It really depends on your soil. If your soil isn't enough, you need teas. Build the soil rich and you can skip that step. Soil microbes want a certain ratio to build. Carbon....Nitrogen......Phos.....and a lesser extent Sulfur. Build a soil rich in carbon and you bypass the need for sugars at least IMO. I think that ratio is amazing and wish more were into learning about it. Build a soil that feeds microbes in a ratio of 100 : 10 : 10 : 1 CNPS and see what happens. Magic.

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Yes!! Lol

aubi280 said:

Hi, I'm having some issues here. I never had that bad of issues and have been growing for almost 10 years. I'm battling and its getting worst. I have been using this exact method and never had much issues before. Only 2 plants are bad affected and they are affected differently, also 2 different strains.

.Mid week 5 of flower.

Temps/rh: 78 F° / 55%rh

.Grow method: Organic living soil.

.Nutrients: Slow release organic amendments feeding it once a month. Fed 2 weeks ago. Feed brewing tea every other water feed. (worm casting,molasses,liquid fish, bokashi,kelp meal).

Ph: Not adjusting ph, the microbes in organic living soil are supose to do the job. Using declorinated water at 7.2 going in. (tap)

Ppm: not testing ppm. Organic feed once a month.

Light: Led qb boards at 800 ppfd to the top heads.


1st picture: top leaves are affected. yellowing and rusting starting from the tips and progressing to the middle. Leaves curling downward. Also I have circle rust spots. I suspect nuts deficiency but I just fed 2 weeks ago !

2nd picture: Top leaves affected. The side edges and the tips are rusting , curling upward this time. I suspect nuts burn.

Only 2 plants out of 4 are affected, the 2 other ones look good. I dont know how to approach this. Cant flush organics and I dont want to feed amendments that late in flower.

Thank you for taking the time to read my tread




View attachment 1114124View attachment 1114125

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Look for a product called recharge realgrowers.com

Definitely looks like K deficiency to me.

You say you're watering with dechlorinated tap water. Do you have hard water? Its pH suggests that it is at least a little hard.
If so, and you amended your growing media with any calcium (lime, dolomite, gypsum, oyster shell meal, crustacean meal, or any natural form of Phosphorus including bone meals) then you likely are getting K lockout from too much calcium. If your water is only moderately hard (50-100 ppm Ca) it can definitely take some time (weeks) for calcium levels to build up to the point that K is getting locked out.

I have seen this many times in grows using hard water.

aubi280 said:

What do you feed your microbes with when you brew ?

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Honey sometimes…Ill often use fruits or veggies that are laying around, and juice them. It’s just a carb source for the my microbes. Ill wait until the soil is almost dry and I hit it again, never to run off tho.. I never PH (which is well over 6.8)
Last week feed:
Honey
Water
Kelp liquid

the girls are happy when the microbes are happy, hope this helps.

Agree with the others who have commented above. Sometimes less is more. I also run a living organic soil Coot-style and honestly have run straight though flower before without ever giving any teas. If you've build up your soil properly before growing in it and have and adequate humus source like compost and/or worm castings then you can go without. Just scratch in some dry amendments and cover with a layer of fresh worm castings and maybe some ground malted barley and you'll be good to go. You can re-apply the top dressing every 3-4 weeks or as needed. As far as the AACT Teas they're great and all but you shouldn't have to be adding a tea every other watering. Sounds more like you're trying to force feed your plants as you would with bottled nutrients to push them to the extreme. Well I think you've done that already as per your pictures. Your plants are showing nute burn. Too hot of whatever it is that you're adding. Wich I dont think that you've fully disclosed yet. What are you feeding them? You said a slow release fert. Sometimes those time released or slow release ferts can wind up being trouble because it's kinda hard to determine exactly what your plants are, or are not actually getting at the time. Until you have trouble and then by adding more teas you are adding or boosting your microbe activity to break down organic matter and make even more things available to your plants. Take it easy on the feedings for awhile. Use water only for a couple of times and watch your plants. The burned leaves will not repair themselves. And in flower your plants won't be pushing out any fresh new leaves so pay attention to the sure leaves around the budsites. Those will be your indicators of what's going on with your grow.
Remember less is more sometimes.
A little bit of kelp meal and worm castings can do your plants some good as a top dress and shouldn't burn your plants anymore when done in moderation. Maybe a tea every 2-3 weeks next time.
The most important thing is that you learn from it and keep moving forward. Dont get discouraged and give up. You should be having fun with your own personal med grow.
Good luck! And keep 'em green!

Homesteader said:

Think of it this way. Molasses is about 6% Potassium give or take (I don't know the N or the P but assuming 0 for this) every watering you are giving the plant 0-0-6 unless I am mistaken. Cannabis doesn't need all that much K.
I know lots of people are into teas and I'm not trying to sway anyone. It really depends on your soil. If your soil isn't enough, you need teas. Build the soil rich and you can skip that step. Soil microbes want a certain ratio to build. Carbon....Nitrogen......Phos.....and a lesser extent Sulfur. Build a soil rich in carbon and you bypass the need for sugars at least IMO. I think that ratio is amazing and wish more were into learning about it. Build a soil that feeds microbes in a ratio of 100 : 10 : 10 : 1 CNPS and see what happens. Magic.

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Where can I learn more about this magic you speak of?!?

Just scrolling through some threads. How did this grow turn out and did stopping the molasses take care of it?