I say one problem for sure is light intensity. The LEDs are intense without much heat. They need to be further away then hps.
my light starts about 28 inches away I let the plant grow to the light. I like to keep At least 18 inches away.
when she is fully flowering. Most recommendations are start at 30 inches work down.
especially with younger plants. Newer lights Now I can get to 18 inches all the time no problem.
but the higher the light the better the coverage etc, the new leds have great coverage in a 4 x4 tent. No more dull spots.

"They need to be further away then hps." Always thought they needed to be closer. That could be my problem right there. I should be able to see some improvement over the next few days hopefully.

The

HunterBrandon said:

"They need to be further away then hps." Always thought they needed to be closer. That could be my problem right there. I should be able to see some improvement over the next few days hopefully they for sure need to be further away. I had a lot of issues with light intensity when I first started yawing led. Now I turn it down to 40 % during veg and gradually up the intensity as I flower then back down near the end of its life. It that’s just me and my opinion.

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supadoopa2 said:

The

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dim raise, lower what ever works not all lights have a dimmer, most do now.
I have two without dimmers one with. Two without are older. LED’s get better every year
been that way 5 years or so more light 10 years, my two older ones had no dimmer but a switch for more red waves etc for flowering, now I have both with my new light.
with my new led I set the light and basically leave it. Maybe lower during flower peak.

HunterBrandon said:

"They need to be further away then hps." Always thought they needed to be closer. That could be my problem right there. I should be able to see some improvement over the next few days hopefully.

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yea tf, arent HPS more intense?

It depends, proper LEDs are very intense. Of course you'd have to consider wattage as well. The reason you'd want to run your LEDs closer is to get your leaf temperature up, if needed. You'd want to do this with the LEDs dimmed and not full blast of course.

Observationist said:

yea tf, arent HPS more intense

Observationist said:

yea tf, arent HPS more intense?

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Observationist said:

yea tf, arent HPS more intense?

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Well as intense with less heat, so many go to close.

Dye said:

Well as intense with less heat, so many go to close.

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Hmm ok thanks!

jguit said:

It depends, proper LEDs are very intense. Of course you'd have to consider wattage as well. The reason you'd want to run your LEDs closer is to get your leaf temperature up, if needed. You'd want to do this with the LEDs dimmed and not full blast of course.

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Thanks guys

Dye said:

Well as intense with less heat, so many go to close.

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Observationist said:

Thanks guys

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big difference between LEDs, some cheap ones from China on eBay will veg some plants pretty good.
but when it comes to flower power we all know the formula. better light better buds tighter ripe baby.

Root issue? Can we see how white your roots are?

Roots are decent enough, I've had real root issues, so I know what those look like, and this is good in comparison. In fact, what you see here is a completely rebuilt system based around preventing root rot, taken from advice here. So, here's the system based on advice here. Key features being, the water level is all the way up to the bottom of the net pot, so all roots are submerged. All new quality black buckets, not blue Lowe's buckets which I found out leak a surprising amount of light. Also, you'll notice that I lowered the buckets through the floor, so the water is not inside the hot tent. My nute temps went from 76F to now 68F. Chillers are coming to keep things cool for summer.



So, the answer here to my original question is BOTH. This is both a light issue and a nutrient issue. Thanks again to advice here I learned how to calculate NPK correctly and found out my N is way low. Present, but low. But if that’s the case then why aren’t the veg tent plants displaying this?



My theory or hypothesis is this. Cannabis is all about N-P-K ratios. The ratios are the key. When something is out of balance, like a wheel, it can’t go fast very well. But it can go slow just fine. Right? So, the low light on the left is the wheel being turned slowly and everyone is reasonably happy, at least in comparison. The brighter tent is the wheel being turned at high speed and the imbalance shows its ugly head. Make sense?



Today I just reduced the light down to one 73 watt light, just to see what happens. Just standing back looking at the two tents the lush green one is almost dark in comparison. It's like light is going a long way in the big tent because so much of it is reflecting around and there's no huge leaf mass to absorb and cast shadows. Jungles aren't bright, they're dark and green. The plants are already showing signs of improvement. You can see deeper green returning to the newer leaves. Even some of the older leaves look better.



I’m amazed they can do this well with the N being so low. I did also add more N but there’s no room for what I need. I’ll be changing the nutes in a few days as soon as my order of Potassium Sulfate arrives. My prior bad math also made me use too much of this, so my K is hot, and I ran out. But this shows how much play there is and they are still alive.

Seems like you got it all figured out bud :) Im not the chemist, more less the guy who can help point people in the right direction. So once you figure out this and you want another challenge, set up a separate pot and run live instead of sterile. If you have tried it before and didnt like it, try it again lol. Dunno if you have seen me mention it before, but imma say it again to everyone who goes sterile. Live>Sterile 72F>68F. . The conversations about why people think im wrong and why I feel im correct always end up with people educated more on both sides. By no means am I saying people are doing it wrong, im just saying its wild the difference. Just most cant keep their root rot under control so they give up

Lol nevermind all that, I just seen ive already mentioned this to you on another post. . perhaps one day in the future you will come my way ;)

I think this is considered live, but please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm using generous amounts of Hydroguard, a dash of Garden Friendly Fungicide, and a dash of Pond Zyme which will turn your water as clear as NASA swimming pool. I've used Great White but I'm out and not really planning on buying more. I really like Pond Zyme. Just use it sparingly.

HunterBrandon said:

I think this is considered live, but please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm using generous amounts of Hydroguard, a dash of Garden Friendly Fungicide, and a dash of Pond Zyme which will turn your water as clear as NASA swimming pool. I've used Great White but I'm out and not really planning on buying more. I really like Pond Zyme. Just use it sparingly.

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Well then, if you can fight the rot, try raising your temps then. Live systems seem to be the only ones that can handle 72f. Up to you bro, maby not anytime soon, but just remember that guy told you that you should. I guarantee if u finish a harvest at 72f you will thank me lol. Regardless, my setup isnt perfect. Im sure if I posted id have all kinds of criticism. I dont mean it bad by any means. Just more less sharing some info ive gained on here and tried for myself. Anyways. . cant wait to see your buds :)

Interesting but makes sense. The bacteria likely thrive at the higher temps you're talking about, 72F. Hey I'm not opposed to trying it, and most likely as soon as the summer heat starts here, 72F may be more realistic of a doable goal than spending large amounts on electricity to pull it down more. I'm only enjoying these low temps because that's where they are naturally for this time of year. But this will be over very soon. I might be able to accomplish 72F without chillers with this new setup as long as my room ac is strong. Got me thinking now.

Now they look like this. The bright green/yellow new growth is an obvious sign of.....?

The weird thing is how happy they look. By the way these are on day 18 of flower cycle.

Nitrogen def? Then the lower leaves would show yellowing not the newest growth. There's plenty of N in my ratio. Too much N? I'm running at about 2-1-2 right now.

Potassium def? I'm using both Potassium Sulphate and just started adding Potassium Nitrate which is more soluble. All searches seemed to say it's ok to use both but who knows.

Magnesium def? I use Epsom salt at about a 1 ratio. Could the Epsom salt be reacting with another ingredient like Calcium Nitrate?

Iron def? My micro nutes won't be in for a few more days so I'm using Azomite in foliar spray. Just started with that yesterday.

Night air temps too low? I read this can be the cause of yellowing new growth and my temps were dropping down to 67 at night and I run the tents in the low 80s during the day with plenty of air circulation, so last night I brought in a heater and limited the drop to 72. Just been one day so nothing yet. The Sativa on the right is showing the yellowing more which makes me think this is the cause as they are supposedly more sensitive to low night temps.

These are all homemade strains from my own crosses.

Other than that, the only thing I can think of is I gave them their first treatment of Axiom about 5 days ago. I've not heard of this being a reaction to Axiom.

All thoughts and opinions are welcome and appreciated.

I wish i could help but i've never experienced anything like that. What are you feeding your plants? It sounds like whatever you're doing is complicated. Ha!

It's a little complicated but just due to the upfront learning curve. I recently switched to mixing my own nutes, knowing it would take a while to dial it in. My mix is fairly basic and common from all the searches so far. For N I'm using Calcium Nitrate which is 15-0-0 and has calcium. For P I'm using Potassium Phosphate which is 0-52-34. For K I'm using Potassium Sulphate which is 0-0-52 (and contains 18 Sulfur). For Magnesium I use Magnesium Sulphate (Epsom Salt). I recently read about the advantages of Potassium Nitrate for K which is 13-0-45 so have added some to the recipe and taken out some of the potassium sulphate to make up for it. I may eliminate the potassium sulfate and just use potassium nitrate as an experiment. I'm changing my nutes weekly so they can survive a week of my experimentation. I don't have my trace elements in yet so hoping the foliar of Azomite will help. I've added a little tap water for some minerals as well.

Figuring out the weight of each and then calculating the amount in grams of each is the hard part so far. For example. If my target goal is an N-P-K of 3-1-2, which is ideal for veg, it's not 3 parts of N and 1 part of P and 2 parts of K. My N only has a weight of 15 and my P has a weight of 52. That's where it starts to get complicated. Then it further complicates when they have two things going on like the P also has a K weight of 34. So, figuring a 3-1-2 ratio is challenging as there are no nutrient calculators whereby you can enter your own numbers.