I think the brown leaf is the first leaf to emerge they always die off. That brown tip on leaves might be too hot. Temps in your grow space?

Slight nutrient burn. Be careful not to overwater. Water a little bit at the base area, but do most of your watering around a parameter of the base. To promote root growth outward to seek the moisture. Extend that parameter watering out each watering. When the plant is about 5 nodes, do a full soil soak and then let her dry out for about 5-7 days or until the soil is on the dryer side and then runoff water slowly. Wait another 5 days and check but she may need to dry a couple more days. Don’t be afraid to let the container be super light before the second full soak. By this time you’ll have soaked the whole medium 2 times and be doing regular full bag watering/feeds afterward and you’ll water with regular/normal intervals. Your plant should blow up for you healthy. Also, by drying out like that and full soaking, you’ll have a very good idea of how much water the container needs at full dry and can be used as your max watering amount. You’ll be able to manage how often vs how much because the amount of water to runoff shouldn’t change, the frequency should become more often the rest of the grow.

Consistently wet soil form short watering intervals will demote root growth and the root system won’t have as much coverage in the same amount of time as doing long dry backs on full soaks. You only need to do this a couple times of full soak long dry backs. Kind of like a kick start to her adventure. You prevent excessive watering, water logging and root rot while promoting extensive root expansion.

Hopefully I explained it in a way you can visualize in your head how that works. To Tell or Signal the roots to expand with the parameter watering, into dry backs to promote water seeking further. Then when the roots are expanded you start regular watering. In those two weeks you should have a beast.

I am on my second dry back full soak right now. So I’ve only ever watered these things fully soaked two times and she is at about 3-4 weeks veg..these are clones, but the same applies. 8 tops on these, they would have been 2’ by now without the topping. So imagine a lot bigger if you don’t high stress train your girl, she will be massive after 2 weeks of using these initial dry backs at her beginning of veg.

I am only feeding with early veg nutrients and have not began any vamping up. Nutrients are not going to make growth happen faster at these stages. If anything it will hinder her. But I guess it depends on how long you plan to veg for, how often you bump nutrients. As you’ll want to have your nutrients PPM where you want your peak PPM through the first weeks of flower, before you tapper it back. Light nutrient regime is going to be more successful than an aggressive one. Aggressive feeds are for skilled growers who can identify issues and pull back appropriately, as well as growers who plan to perform high stress training. Otherwise, light feeding all grow for natural grown or for a single topping plan. But as you can see, nutrient strength doesn’t matter because I’ve been at 500ppm (1.0ec) for a couple weeks. It never is about nutrient strength as it is balanced nutrients and consistency. Nutrient demand will always correlate to light intensity. The best time to increase nutrient strength is a couple days before you plan to increase intensity. When you increase intensity, supply plenty of water and food. But light changes are high stress so spread it out with the nutrient bump stress, don’t do them at the same time.

Just some info or technique you can pick from or follow if you want a system to get you going.

Desplegdo said:

Hello I'm a new grower and wondering whats going on or if anything is?
This plant has had explosive growth since the main stem stopped thinning out but the bottom leave edges are turning slightly more yellow
I started nutes a week ago, when should I up nutes? I've used 1/8th of what it says
Light is 22in away at 25% goes by 25
Is this anything to worry about or is it just the plant doing its thing?
Pics taken within a week of each other
View attachment 2232887View attachment 2232888

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Hey brother. Doesn't appear to be anything serious right now. Tricky to diagnose from the pic. Can you take a picture of the entire plant? Are only the 2 bottom single blade leaves affected? The cotyledons always die off. Doesn't look like burn to me. Don't let them get too dry and wath your humidity. A picture of the entire plant would help.

Jeffdaman said:

I think the brown leaf is the first leaf to emerge they always die off. That brown tip on leaves might be too hot. Temps in your grow space?

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Between 72 and 77

RealFarmer said:

Hey brother. Doesn't appear to be anything serious right now. Tricky to diagnose from the pic. Can you take a picture of the entire plant? Are only the 2 bottom single blade leaves affected? The cotyledons always die off. Doesn't look like burn to me. Don't let them get too dry and wath your humidity. A picture of the entire plant would help.

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Cotlyedons have already died these are the leaves above them just the seratted leave not fingered

Bdubs said:

I am only feeding with early veg nutrients and have not began any vamping up. Nutrients are not going to make growth happen faster at these stages. If anything it will hinder her. But I guess it depends on how long you plan to veg for, how often you bump nutrients. As you’ll want to have your nutrients PPM where you want your peak PPM through the first weeks of flower, before you tapper it back. Light nutrient regime is going to be more successful than an aggressive one. Aggressive feeds are for skilled growers who can identify issues and pull back appropriately, as well as growers who plan to perform high stress training. Otherwise, light feeding all grow for natural grown or for a single topping plan. But as you can see, nutrient strength doesn’t matter because I’ve been at 500ppm (1.0ec) for a couple weeks. It never is about nutrient strength as it is balanced nutrients and consistency. Nutrient demand will always correlate to light intensity. The best time to increase nutrient strength is a couple days before you plan to increase intensity. When you increase intensity, supply plenty of water and food. But light changes are high stress so spread it out with the nutrient bump stress, don’t do them at the same time.

Just some info or technique you can pick from or follow if you want a system to get you going.

Click to expand...

I've been giving her full pot watering since she was growing the 4th set I've found that 400-450ml doesn't overwater and drys up ab 3-4 days so should I up the watering then let it dry out for a couple more days is that what u mean?
Haven't bumped nutes or anything just have been giving 1/8th of the recommend bc ppl told me it was fine

Desplegdo said:

Cotlyedons have already died these are the leaves above them just the seratted leave not fingeredView attachment 2233059View attachment 2233060View attachment 2233061

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Just let them dry out before you water and you're good brother. They aren't in need of any special care