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Yellow leaf tips - overfeeding or other?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dance_Instructor
  • Start date Start date May 1, 2023
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Yellow leaf tips - overfeeding or other?

Dance_Instructor May 1, 2023 19 Replies 13,581 Views
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Dance_Instructor

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#1
Hi,

My plants have yellow tips on leaves and some of the leaf tips are brown, is this nutrient burn or should I search for other reasons?

Its auto, in soil, watering with 2L water in every 2 days when the pot is light. Ph 6.5, light is pretty high, around 30 inch

 
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#2
Are we talking about this plant in particular...the ones behind it are yellowing... @Shaded_One @mysticepipedon
 
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#3
2Bad said:
Are we talking about this plant in particular...the ones behind it are yellowing... @Shaded_One @mysticepipedon
Click to expand...
Well the one behind had lots of problems time to time and now its kinda stabilized and have good buds so im ok. I just want to understand whats the problem so I can prevent it next time. Here’s the one behind:
 
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#4
Are you using bottled or dry amendments
 
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#5
2Bad said:
Are you using bottled or dry amendments
Click to expand...
Bottled, I have Advanced Nutrients Jungle Juice, which im giving 50% dose,

Also im giving B52 and Overdrive also 50% dose.
 
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#6
Ok don't rush to fix it let someone with knowledge comment . See I've only had one successful grow in soil and i've learned from Shaded thats why I tagged him. but if I had to guess I'd say deficiency since the yellowing plant has the same tip burns. (Just guessing)
 
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Mothman

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#7
Dance_Instructor said:
Hi,

My plants have yellow tips on leaves and some of the leaf tips are brown, is this nutrient burn or should I search for other reasons?

Its auto, in soil, watering with 2L water in every 2 days when the pot is light. Ph 6.5, light is pretty high, around 30 inch

View attachment 1960600View attachment 1960601
Click to expand...
Yes, those brown tips with curled UP tips appear to be nute burn.

I see others, mostly yellow tips without deformity, that look more like light burn to me, but not as sure about that.
 
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#8
What is the maximum ppm u aim in mid/late flowering for autos? @Mothman

My tap water is already 150ppm, and with the nutes I mentioned, it goes up to 800 which I think should not exceed optimal amount for autos, so im a bit confused.
 
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#9
Dance_Instructor said:
What is the maximum ppm u aim in mid/late flowering for autos? @Mothman

My tap water is already 150ppm, and with the nutes I mentioned, it goes up to 800 which I think should not exceed optimal amount for autos, so im a bit confused.
Click to expand...

You might check your runoff ppms next time you water, just to get an idea if you have a salt buildup in your pots.
 
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Mothman

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#10
Dance_Instructor said:
What is the maximum ppm u aim in mid/late flowering for autos? @Mothman

My tap water is already 150ppm, and with the nutes I mentioned, it goes up to 800 which I think should not exceed optimal amount for autos, so im a bit confused.
Click to expand...
Hey, sorry, I don’t speak Auto yet. Never grown one.
 
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#11
@mysticepipedon @growsince79 @Shaded_One
 
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#12
I grow in soil, and have been for a very long time, depending on the strain leaf yellowing like the plant behind the other one can be naturally occurring thing, but it can also indicate a nitrogen deficiency or a buffering issue, what a lot of people dont understand about ph and the buffering issue is that an out of whack ph will mimic a nitrogen def, because thats exactly what's going on , the plant may have an abundance of nitrogen in the soil but can't utilize it due to the ph imbalance, or when combined with very strong lighting the plant IS uptaking the nitrogen but not sufficiently to keep up with the strong lights. so the issue gets a little cloudy when trying to diagnose from afar, but here are the pertinent issues,,ph your soil and your runoff. dial your lighting in,, if you suspect the lights ar too shtrong, or too close, reign that in. the leaf tip thing is almost always a nute burn, just small tips or brown tips and the rest healthy indicates the plant is healing, progressivly yellowing tips and other symptoms means the burn is ongoing and needs more attention, look at your new growth? still seeing tip yellowing, do a flush, is nt rectified after that do a repot to get rid of salts build up,,, it happens, even in soil, every once in a while i will have aplant who nutritional needs are a bit different than the rest and i will have to either repot or completely dial in the nute schedule, most of my nutes come from a combination of chicken poo tea and dressings of dolomitic lime and trace nutrients , worm castings, and blood meal, but i still get nute burn..and salts will build in the soil from the urea in the chicken poo and other amendments as well, soil doesn't solve all the problems but it softens the damage and gives you more time to react and fix things, so its a more forgiving way to grow.
 
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#13
strider26554 said:
I grow in soil, and have been for a very long time, depending on the strain leaf yellowing like the plant behind the other one can be naturally occurring thing, but it can also indicate a nitrogen deficiency or a buffering issue, what a lot of people dont understand about ph and the buffering issue is that an out of whack ph will mimic a nitrogen def, because thats exactly what's going on , the plant may have an abundance of nitrogen in the soil but can't utilize it due to the ph imbalance, or when combined with very strong lighting the plant IS uptaking the nitrogen but not sufficiently to keep up with the strong lights. so the issue gets a little cloudy when trying to diagnose from afar, but here are the pertinent issues,,ph your soil and your runoff. dial your lighting in,, if you suspect the lights ar too shtrong, or too close, reign that in. the leaf tip thing is almost always a nute burn, just small tips or brown tips and the rest healthy indicates the plant is healing, progressivly yellowing tips and other symptoms means the burn is ongoing and needs more attention, look at your new growth? still seeing tip yellowing, do a flush, is nt rectified after that do a repot to get rid of salts build up,,, it happens, even in soil, every once in a while i will have aplant who nutritional needs are a bit different than the rest and i will have to either repot or completely dial in the nute schedule, most of my nutes come from a combination of chicken poo tea and dressings of dolomitic lime and trace nutrients , worm castings, and blood meal, but i still get nute burn..and salts will build in the soil from the urea in the chicken poo and other amendments as well, soil doesn't solve all the problems but it softens the damage and gives you more time to react and fix things, so its a more forgiving way to grow.
Click to expand...
This!
 
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#14
So today I flushed my autos that had yellow leaves and tips, runoff ph for that plant in my post was below 5 and ppm was 900, so i flushed until the ph went up to 6.5 and ppm to 200, as im gonna harvest it soon.

Others (for example the one with yellow leaves) had ppm 500 and ph 6 runoff water so it wasnt terrible but still flushed with lots of water to clean the soil and fix salt buildup.

I have few other plants that had same symtoms.

After flushing I gave them 50% recommended nutes, as they might show deficiency next few days and also it will take 4-5 days at least to dry the pot.

Will see how plants will react to this.

Thanks for the comments
 
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#15
Dance_Instructor said:
Well the one behind had lots of problems time to time and now its kinda stabilized and have good buds so im ok. I just want to understand whats the problem so I can prevent it next time. Here’s the one behind:
View attachment 1960622
Click to expand...
Because the lower leaves look OK, except for the nute burn that everything has, I think this is a light-related problem, as in too much. Some nutrient, possibly magnesium, was low, even thought you have leaf tip burn, and the intense light brought it out.

I am not certain that happened, but it's my best guess. There's no fixing it now. I would just up the epsom salts early in flower. I also find N could be needed early in flower, and if the plants don't get it at that time, they fade early.
 
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#16
Dance_Instructor said:
So today I flushed my autos that had yellow leaves and tips, runoff ph for that plant in my post was below 5 and ppm was 900, so i flushed until the ph went up to 6.5 and ppm to 200, as im gonna harvest it soon.

Others (for example the one with yellow leaves) had ppm 500 and ph 6 runoff water so it wasnt terrible but still flushed with lots of water to clean the soil and fix salt buildup.

I have few other plants that had same symtoms.

After flushing I gave them 50% recommended nutes, as they might show deficiency next few days and also it will take 4-5 days at least to dry the pot.

Will see how plants will react to this.

Thanks for the comments
Click to expand...
I wouldn't harvest soon maybe 3 weeks. still alot of white pistils.
 
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#17
2Bad said:
I wouldn't harvest soon maybe 3 weeks. still alot of white pistils.
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Yeah but trichomes started to getting amber, so should be good in 2 weeks.

Also its 13 week old already :D
 
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#18
You must be looking at the leaves and not the buds. Yeah 2 weeks should be done but then a week to ripen.
 
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#19
2Bad said:
You must be looking at the leaves and not the buds. Yeah 2 weeks should be done but then a week to ripen.
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yes u are right, i saw trichomes on leaves. I wont harvest it yet then, thanks for the info
 
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#20
Dance_Instructor said:
yes u are right, i saw trichomes on leaves. I wont harvest it yet then, thanks for the info
Click to expand...
No worries just want you to learn from my mistakes. harvesting while theres white pistols is no bueno and way less flavorful.
 
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