pulchripes
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Was as low at 24 degrees yesterday never goes above 28, laser thermometer said the leaves are around that too
Was as low at 24 degrees yesterday never goes above 28, laser thermometer said the leaves are around that tooOr both…they frequently roll together
That little leaf at the bottom would probably have yellowed anyway they always do. The rest looks like mag deficiency. The last photo is definitely mag deficiency.Here's them today, yellowing at the bottom and the last is a top fan leaf. They've had nothing since the transplant then flush for the nute burn, literally nothing, no water has been needed, they've grown a lot though, but this stuff persists, lights have been on 50 percent and 24" away at least.
View attachment 2144968
The first post had multiple issues, the last photo with the yellowing in between the viens of the leaf, while the vienes stay green = mag def.It’s the same thing I posted before.
That one is also at the bottom where mag deficiency begins.It’s the same thing I posted before.
Yeah both in and runoff are 6.5Have you tried adjusting the pH of your nutrient solution to see if that resolves the yellowing?
A picture of the whole plant would really be handy…..View attachment 2146068is this far too light a yellow for the side branch leaves?
This look like light stress?
View attachment 2143451
Or heat
could be low humidity, very common for me, all my plants leaf edges are turned up all the time I keeep my RH around 38-45% if I let it rise up to 50-55 they flatten back outIt depends…lol
Seriously though, it definitely could be, especially looking at the other pics. Not uncommon for light and/or heat stress to cause all sorts of symptoms. Also dependent on the strain. See a little N clawing on the bottom leaf in that pic. That is not a symptom I would generally associate with light stress and I would want to watch my nitrogen until it’s sorted out.
What would you recommend?Late stage light stress. Exacerbated by an under developed root system. Another symptom of light stress, during seedling and veg stage, often not considered is a weakened root system.
Raise your light to 48 inches and lower intensity to 20-25 %What would you recommend?
They look like they can be saved? The light is at least 24" above canopy now and have been for a while turned to 50 percentRaise your light to 48 inches and lower intensity to 20-25 %
That's what I was thinking as I read the thread. I'm glad someone finally mentioned it. It can also be thought of as a high VPD. The plant transpires at a high rate, opening most of the stomata, curling the leaves upward.could be low humidity, very common for me, all my plants leaf edges are turned up all the time I keeep my RH around 38-45% if I let it rise up to 50-55 they flatten back out
I've seen very few plants that I thought could not be saved.They look like they can be saved?
What is the power rating of the light? 50% of one can be quite different than 50% of another.The light is at least 24" above canopy now and have been for a while turned to 50 percent
Hmm that’s something I’ll have to look into about the UV. I just added my UV/IR bars back to my setup and have it on a timer for 5 minute intervals 3 times per day cycle defenitly gunna check that out!That's what I was thinking as I read the thread. I'm glad someone finally mentioned it. It can also be thought of as a high VPD. The plant transpires at a high rate, opening most of the stomata, curling the leaves upward.
Interveinal chlorosis indicates a need for more Mg, too. I keep a spray bottle with a mixture of Epsom salt and water for foliar feeding. It's the quickest way to supplement Mg. I read recently that this deficiency could be related to there being less UV light in the LED light spectrum. If so, it makes the case for being ready to supplement Mg.
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