1000w Cmh Vs 800w Cobs Side By Side

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FutureGrower

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So far from what I can see in my usage, my new 1000w is much brighter and noticeabley outperforming my two 630w de lumatek cmh's with regards overall brightness and also light penetration. And exponentially so over my old 315w. I can only deduce that it's because it's coming from a single source and us therefore concentrated. The ceramic element is obviously heating to a much higher temp and therefore burning brighter than 3 x 315's. Im only guessing, but my guess would be that a 1000w de cmh on a light mover would outperform three or maybe four 315's. I also think adding a light rail would prob give it the edge overall over led, as the cobs main advantage seems to be coverage, but im just speculating :)
Im strapped in tight for this one for sure :)

Man I love threads like these I'm definitely subbing!

One question I have though is why are the cobs so high off canopy?
 
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heisen

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Man I love threads like these I'm definitely subbing!

One question I have though is why are the cobs so high off canopy?
there not its just the camera angle.there is 800 watts of cobs there,I dont keep them 10 inches from the tops,They become super bright hot spots and ill get light bleach in little circle areas.I keep them right at 16 to 18 inches from the top of the canopy.also the footprint on a cob is 120 degrees.They have to be a ceartian distance to get the right PAR overlap.These arent T5s
 
jumpincactus

jumpincactus

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Very nice thread. Now, are my eyes playing tricks on me or are the plants in the middle stretching less?
you would have to expect the outer areas to stretch more right? With the ones in the par sweet spot you would figure they don't need to stretch for the light as much as the outer banks of plants. Sounds good from my house … :D
 
jumpincactus

jumpincactus

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KingOfUranus

KingOfUranus

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Mr @heisenbubble will you be using a 10,000k finishing bulb if they are available in time for this run? (I would also like to see both techs run start to finish utilising all of their respective advantages. ie using all the available bulb spectrums for cmh, whilst utilising the multiple light points and lower heat from cobs to optimise for penetration and coverage. The only variables that I really believe should be fixed are space, wattage and time).
Also would you consider housing a light rail for the cmh to optimise coverage and negate the "mound" effect? I honestly believe a 1kw de on a light mover would definitely out perform four 315se, and possibly two 630w de. Just because the light source seems so much concentrated ime so far.
 
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heisen

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Mr @heisenbubble will you be using a 10,000k finishing bulb if they are available in time for this run? (I would also like to see both techs run start to finish utilising all of their respective advantages. ie using all the available bulb spectrums for cmh, whilst utilising the multiple light points and lower heat from cobs to optimise for penetration and coverage. The only variables that I really believe should be fixed are space, wattage and time).
Also would you consider housing a light rail for the cmh to optimise coverage and negate the "mound" effect? I honestly believe a 1kw de on a light mover would definitely out perform four 315se, and possibly two 630w de. Just because the light source seems so much concentrated ime so far.
Im not using a finishing bulb,I dont get into this shit like that man,I think alot of that is bullshit.3 days dark cycle and all that jazz.I just let em go untill there ready and chop em.Start with good genetics and you wont have to break out the snake oil to try and make you buds frost up.Mine are frosty enough already.I have enough going on in that room now to be trying new stuff.It takes 3 hrs a day to maintain what i have going on.
 
jumpincactus

jumpincactus

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Mr @heisenbubble will you be using a 10,000k finishing bulb if they are available in time for this run? (I would also like to see both techs run start to finish utilising all of their respective advantages. ie using all the available bulb spectrums for cmh, whilst utilising the multiple light points and lower heat from cobs to optimise for penetration and coverage. The only variables that I really believe should be fixed are space, wattage and time).
Also would you consider housing a light rail for the cmh to optimise coverage and negate the "mound" effect? I honestly believe a 1kw de on a light mover would definitely out perform four 315se, and possibly two 630w de. Just because the light source seems so much concentrated ime so far.
I have used solis tek finisher 10,000 k bulbs on three different runs with the same strains and from the same moms and do believe that the finisher bulbs are a lot of malarkey. Saw no difference in terp profiles, frost levels, or potency in like strains that were previously run only under mh/hps all the way to chop. Snake oil I would say.
 
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heisen

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I have used solis tek finisher 10,000 k bulbs on three different runs with the same strains and from the same moms and do believe that the finisher bulbs are a lot of malarkey. Saw no difference in terp profiles, frost levels, or potency in like strains that were previously run only under mh/hps all the way to chop. Snake oil I would say.
Its all about genetics.Nothing can compare to outdoor strength and UV of the sun,I have never noticed an outdoor plant frostier than an indoor,
I think the only thing that effects potency and trichs is temperatures.I notice when it runs cooler the plants will frost up and when its warmer they are less/
 
KingOfUranus

KingOfUranus

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Im not using a finishing bulb,I dont get into this shit like that man,I think alot of that is bullshit.3 days dark cycle and all that jazz.I just let em go untill there ready and chop em..
Cool man, fair enough, just asking :) and how about a light rail, did you consider using one for this run mr @heisenbubble ?
@jumpincactus thanks for the feedback re finishing bulbs :) I've not used them at all, only 3000k, 3200k 4000k. But now im not so keen to try them. Thanks :)
 
KingOfUranus

KingOfUranus

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,...I notice when it runs cooler the plants will frost up and when its warmer they are less/
Theres been times during some of my runs (with hps) when im sure strains have been showing more trichs when exposed to higher humidity levels than accepted as optimal. To the point I started inducing humidity to keep it between 50-55% for the remainder if the run. It was just an observarion, I havent tested this properly on other strains. They were hazes (super lemon and Amnesia) on that run so that could be a factor (?). Temps were higher during that run also, around 27-28. It was just something I thought I had noticed. I think o read later that other people employ higher humidity and get good results (?).
I also set my PB from a single plant (226g) on that run,.. hmmm I wonder,..
 
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heisen

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Cool man, fair enough, just asking :) and how about a light rail, did you consider using one for this run mr @heisenbubble ?
@jumpincactus thanks for the feedback re finishing bulbs :) I've not used them at all, only 3000k, 3200k 4000k. But now im not so keen to try them. Thanks :)
ive heard about light rails being a waste of money,I dont have time for that covering a 4x5.Its pretty damn bight,Using a bulb your always gonna have more intensity in the middle no matter what
 
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heisen

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Theres been times during some of my runs (with hps) when im sure strains have been showing more trichs when exposed to higher humidity levels than accepted as optimal. To the point I started inducing humidity to keep it between 50-55% for the remainder if the run. It was just an observarion, I havent tested this properly on other strains. They were hazes (super lemon and Amnesia) on that run so that could be a factor (?). Temps were higher during that run also, around 27-28. It was just something I thought I had noticed. I think o read later that other people employ higher humidity and get good results (?).
I also set my PB from a single plant (226g) on that run,.. hmmm I wonder,..
be careful with that,anything over 60 percent is asking for mold issues with super sticky and dense strains.
 
KingOfUranus

KingOfUranus

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Using a bulb your always gonna have more intensity in the middle no matter what
Yeah totally, that's why I thought about the light rail ;) I saw them using them in Amsterdam decades ago, in small space with one light. That's really what their for. I dint understand why ppl use light rails/movers when they have multiple lights, because the reflectors are usually designed to form an overlap pattern with 1.5m centres anyway, lol. And imI'sure a guy like you could improvise or build one pretty easily if you wanted to mr @heisenbubble :) what is it, a chain, a motor cpl switches?? ;)
 
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FutureGrower

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there not its just the camera angle.there is 800 watts of cobs there,I dont keep them 10 inches from the tops,They become super bright hot spots and ill get light bleach in little circle areas.I keep them right at 16 to 18 inches from the top of the canopy.also the footprint on a cob is 120 degrees.They have to be a ceartian distance to get the right PAR overlap.These arent T5s

Yeah I run bridgelux eb2 strips and people go 6" off canopy in flower fairly common is why I was wondering. Thanks for the response man makes a lot of sense! Really love what you're doing
 
KingOfUranus

KingOfUranus

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be careful with that,anything over 60 percent is asking for mold issues with super sticky and dense strains.
Yes definitely!! Thank you sir :) as I say, it's not something ive repeatesr just happened by accident and was noteworthy at the time. If I were to actually try and test this theory it would be with those two strains first, just to see if there was anything to it or if it was just my perception of more trichs. I definately wouldnt be keen on trying this on any other strains first!lol, thanks again @heisenbubble sir :)
 
WhtChocolate

WhtChocolate

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Its all about genetics.Nothing can compare to outdoor strength and UV of the sun,I have never noticed an outdoor plant frostier than an indoor,
I think the only thing that effects potency and trichs is temperatures.I notice when it runs cooler the plants will frost up and when its warmer they are less/

Old timer showed me his indoor set up for last two/three days before cutting had a cold dark room around 57 degrees. I swear they doubled the frost. His theory was the plants last ditch effort to stay alive.
 
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heisen

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coming up on the 3 week mark
coouple things i noticed.Plants under the CMH look greener and healthier.They are a little bit bigger but not much.Maybe a tad taller on the stretch.Plants are right around 5 feet from the floor.About another foot to go on the stretch.
I noticed on the COBS the plants seem to have more bud sites and seems like they are flowering a little heavier.Im very impressed with the CMH so far but not sure if it is worth the extra 400 watts to run it over the cobs.Its pulling almost 1150 watts from the wall and the cobs are pulling 800.Time will tell as far as yield goes.
Done the final trim below the screen and got everything settled in.the screen was raised another 6 inches so its pretty much where it is going to stay for the run.


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CMH
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COBS

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bicky studs

bicky studs

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i think u'll find the light is making the cob plants look different....
they probly just as green....
everything lookin on point :badboy:
 
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