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Bulb Mites And Springtails

Discussion in 'Cannabis Infirmary' started by MissBotany, Oct 8, 2018.

  1. I’m almost positive I have root aphids. The soil is crawling with them. I really need a second opinion and the best way to kill them and probably treat my other plants.

    I have 7 other 2 week old plants in the same tent but this is the only one showing symptoms. (The plant has been topped for mainlining.) I already removed the plant and isolated it in a different room. The only think I can think of that I changed from my last few grows is that I experimented with with these Jobes Organic fertizilzer spikes and maybe they brought the root aphids.
  2. Under the 60x scope I am almost positive I saw 6 legs on them. The pics I posted are under a 30x scope.
  3. 1diesel1

    1diesel1 Moderator Staff Member

    This works!! Work it into the top soil. It cuts the larvae up when they try to surface. Like little razor blades. Make sure it’s food grade. C56017CF-181F-4C5E-98B6-5AFD6540F256.jpeg
  4. After some more research, I think they are actually beneficial SPRINGTAILS. Of course I catastrophized this and assumed they were root aphids.

  5. I was considering getting that or putting a thin layer of sand over the soil.
  6. 1diesel1

    1diesel1 Moderator Staff Member

    Need a better pic.
  7. I also found a type of mite feeding on that organic fertilizer spike. I have a really good video of them moving but I couldn’t upload it. Instead here are a few closer up pictures of what I think is the springtail circled in red and the mite in yellow. They only seem to be interested in the fertilizer spike and seem to be leaving my roots alone so I am hoping they are just beneficial insects.
  8. I did same thing once. Had fingers on the button to nuke everything. And it was springtails.
  9. Right! I definitely have springtails, it’s the other critter I found that I am having a really hard time identifying. It’s either a beneficial mite or a bulb mite. If they’re bulb mites, then I’ll have to break out the nukes because those guys have developed a resistance to most miticides.

    Unless someone can help me identify them correctly, I am leaving them be. If they start to show symptoms of root damage then I’ll know they’re bulb mites...
  10. Ina


  11. So I came up with an plan to tackle these unknown mites. If they appear to be eating the roots (I should know within the next week or two).

    I am pretty positive they might be bulb mites (I’m not lucky enough for them to turn out to be beneficial mites). What I know about bulb mites is they typically feed on bulbs (garlic, Lily, daffodils, tulips, etc.) but do feed on cannabis roots.

    Not from me:
    “Most of the effective pesticides are in pesticide classes now under scrutiny by the Environmental Protection Agency: the organophosphates and carbamates.”

    Some greenhouse/nurseries dip their bulbs in a bleach solution (10% bleach to 90% water) for 15 minutes and let dry or some will use one cup HP to 32 cups of water and use as a soil drench.

    I am going to collect a few more soil samples to experiment with before I apply anything to my plants. One sample is to monitor their life cycle. The other samples will be used to test the hydrogen peroxide and bleach solution to see if either kill the mites, if so what stages of life. If one proves effective then I will sacrifice one plant for my experiment.
  12. Subbed. Interested how your research project turns out Miss B!
    TerpyTyrone and MissBotany like this.
  13. Bulb mite identification:
    Adult bulb mites are 0.5 - 1mm long, are white to translucent with two brown spots on their backs. They also have reddish brown legs. Average life span is 40 days for female, shorter for males. The males are also smaller than the females.

    Also, they stay at the root zone, feeding on the roots. Rarely do they break soil unless you have a large infestation in which you may see them on the bottom part of the main stem.

    One of the reasons I am keeping sample of the mites is to watch them mature in order to positively identify an adult bulb mite based on the above description.
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2018
    WhtChocolate and TerpyTyrone like this.
  14. I collected some samples, I found the mites in 1 out of the three samples I collected today. Springtails were present in all samples. I’ll double check tomorrow for the mites. I can only look at them so often because they make my skin crawl!

    So far only 1 out of the 8 plants is showing possible symptoms of mite damage. I say possible because the dinamed cbd (the plant in the above picture) is extremely sensitive to nutes and I may have burned her putting that organic fertilizer spike in her pot.
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2018
  15. @MissBotany they're bulb mites. I dont know how you want to proceed but hypoaspis miles and rove beetles will check them.
    Jack og and MissBotany like this.
  16. Jack og likes this.
  17. I decided to test two H202 mixes. Decided against testing any form of bleach application. It can take months for the clorate to completely decay. Any chemistry expert or enthusiasts care to chime in?

    So here are two much safer testers.

    1) 1/2 cup 3% H202 mixed with one gallon of water. adjusted pH to 5.8. Applied about 2 teaspoons to soil sample with bulb mites and springtails.

    2) 1/2 cup 3% H202 mixed with one gallon of water. Added 1 teaspoon of neem oil. Did not adjust pH. Applied about 2 teaspoons to a second soil sample.

    Both samples, after 5 minutes bulb mites were very active (probably agitated).

    H202 with neem oil: After 30 minutes no movement from the larger bulb mites, the smaller mites were still active. Couldn’t find movement from springtails. No movement from bulb mite larvae.

    H202 only: after 30 minutes slowed movement in larger bulb mites, smaller mites still active. Found one springtail. No movement from bulb mite larvae.

    Will check in a few more hours.

    Here is a picture of the plants. At this point I am assuming all are infected to some degree. The dinamed CBD is bottom left. She either has nute burn from the fertilizer spike or bulb mite damage.
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2018
    Smokesmcghee and SoLowDolo like this.
  18. @MissBotany
    I just consulted and got solid advice to battle beetles that took hold in my bed. If you have a license you can buy real deal spinosad. Its 10x the strength of captain Jack's. You can however use captain Jack's at double strength. I did this and it's a beetle graveyard in my grow room. Spinosad is a heat seeking missile. Mobile in soil, it will seek out pests and eviscerate them.
  19. I could try it but the problem is that bulb mites are immune to most insecticides due to how quickly they are able to metabolize it. I’m thinking neem oil may work because most horiticultural oils suffocate the pest. I may have to apply several applications and add diatomaceous earth to kill the larvae once they hatch.

    My goal is to get these plants through flower and not start any new grows until I can thoroughly sanitize everything.