Foliar Feeding do's and dont's

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sir_diesel

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Hey dude, I heavily sprayed the actual bud heavy on week 4 like a right tw*t having no knowledge, and I can tell u no mould, nothing but 1 side affect I did notice was that it is HUGE!! Width of a 2lt coke bottle, length of a tall rightguard bottle, no lies check my grow, my accidental discovery! But won't be doing it again, could just be luck etc
 
click80

click80

747
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Hey dude, I heavily sprayed the actual bud heavy on week 4 like a right tw*t having no knowledge, and I can tell u no mould, nothing but 1 side affect I did notice was that it is HUGE!! Width of a 2lt coke bottle, length of a tall rightguard bottle, no lies check my grow, my accidental discovery! But won't be doing it again, could just be luck etc

I foliar spray with Cocowet and Bills and Spray-n-Gro up until week 5 with absolutely no problem except too much to trim by hand...I consistently get .75 grams/watt under 600s and don't ever have to ramp my res nutes much above 900ppm. Bills has a pretty good fruiting profile i have come to understand.
 
Venom818

Venom818

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263
I use advanced VHO very high output 5-0-2 its the shit imo works wonders on mother plants to
 
click80

click80

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Foliar spraying has been proven beyond a shadow of a doubt as to being efficacious. I can post the study later but they labeled some nutrients with some kind of radioactive isotope and traced the translocation through flouroscopy. There is no doubt in my mind that it works, not only because of this study, but from my own observations and the observations of hundreds of growers. We can't all be suffering from placebo effect.
 
click80

click80

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NICE! I have a couple of those Mondi handheld pump sprayers but they're not in the same ballpark as that!
Man I just bought one of those Mondi's. It's not crap, but I am not all that happy with it. Too much pumping. I think that's just the way it is with smaller hand held sprayers, pump type anyway. I am going to start looking for a power sprayer/fogger/atomizer etc... Wish I had the number to ACME, the Coyote always seems to find what he wants.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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I'm thinking there's nothing wrong with a small Wagner power sprayer, just don't try to put anything chunky thru it. I'm also thinking it will be a bit of a pain to manage the cord while trying to spray your girls, and the cleanup will be time consuming too. All depends on the size of your setup as to whether such a step is worth it to you.

The Mondi sprayer is a good choice for small grows and spot applications. Definitely a lot better than a hand held squeeze sprayer, leave that for ironing your shirts, lol.
 
El Cerebro

El Cerebro

1,197
113
Man I just bought one of those Mondi's. It's not crap, but I am not all that happy with it. Too much pumping. I think that's just the way it is with smaller hand held sprayers, pump type anyway. I am going to start looking for a power sprayer/fogger/atomizer etc... Wish I had the number to ACME, the Coyote always seems to find what he wants.

Please report back if coyote helps you find the perfect model battery powered sprayer. Im tired of pumping too and been onto the wagner idea for a while now, yet too cheap to go shopping (which is dumb since I foliar every day). FYI, I know a couple guys who use the backpack style, but prob a little overkill for some of us..
 
Lowman

Lowman

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28
I have a little battery powered hand held unit that just attaches to a gallon jug. I love it. Never clogs...and I can reach under anywhere without dealing with a wand. Don't know the name right now...but I've seen lots of units like it around the grow shops. I think Spray & Grow has a bigger battery powered model as well. Screw pumping all the time.
 
El Cerebro

El Cerebro

1,197
113
Hmm, will check into those. I've also been looking here: Quite sturdy upon examining one in person.

Okay, this doesn't look burly enough, 4AAs :
 
El Cerebro

El Cerebro

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113
And google has lots of other junky sprayer units, some on carts, backpacks with all kinds of tubing and cords getting caught, up to 5gal, etc. All look like they wouldn't last 5min in my garden, or at least would be a hassle in all but the roomiest quarters. The Root-Lowell one was beefy, looked like you could bang it around the room with no worries, tank is thick blowmolded.

Does anyone know how small the particle size is with the paint sprayers?
 
pRiMo303

pRiMo303

541
93
I use Dr Bs peppermint castile soap as a wettener. Can anyone tell me if the peppermint is counter productive to what the kelps doing for the plant? Just want to make sure the peppermint is safe in conjunction w the kelp. Appreciate the insight guys and gals.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
23,596
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I use Dr Bs peppermint castile soap as a wettener. Can anyone tell me if the peppermint is counter productive to what the kelps doing for the plant? Just want to make sure the peppermint is safe in conjunction w the kelp. Appreciate the insight guys and gals.
I doubt it's 'counter-productive,' to use with kelp, and in fact I believe that it can help you with pest prevention (the peppermint oil).

I've begun using their bar soaps for the surfactant--MUCH cheaper than their liquid soaps.
 
pRiMo303

pRiMo303

541
93
The reason I asked is bc after googling peppermint oil it seems it has antimicrobial/bacterial/fungal properties.
I doubt it's 'counter-productive,' to use with kelp, and in fact I believe that it can help you with pest prevention (the peppermint oil).

I've begun using their bar soaps for the surfactant--MUCH cheaper than their liquid soaps.
 
click80

click80

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I don't have the time to search down this study right now but both sides off this are right, I read a study that evaluated this using many different types of plants. Plants can and do absorb through the leaf surface (some more than others, like a rubber plant has less absorption), but absorption through the stoma is much higher and more effective (faster).


I have since found out that I was wrong in part about this. Yes they do ahsorb through stomata. Much more absorbtion is obtained through translaminar penetration at high humidity. So if you want to feel you plants and don't want to use Saturator or anything that is questionable as to it's contents. The before foliar feeding get you RH up to about 80% + and your plants will love you for it.

Oh, another thing I just found out, and yeah this is off topic but I know Sea Maiden will appreciate it. All fungus gnat larvae are not fungus gnat larvae. Nematodes are visible to the naked eye and they do resemble fungus gnat larvae. I don't know who told me they were not visible to the naked eye (nematodes) but the most certainly are. I just got back from looking at about 20 differents types. When I thought I was having a FG problem, it was RA's the whole time, but just a slight infestation, I am guessing anyway since I didn't see to many flyers. Plus I now can tell the diff between RA flyers and fungus gnatos.

Anyway, the "larvae" I was seeing was nematodes., and it so wonder the Gnatrol did not work. I am guessing on this but it fits together perfectly.

Anyway back to foliaring. If you want to see the study I will try to find it but you probably can yourself. wth google. I found it through High Humidity and Foliar feeding or HH and translaminar penetration.
 
squiggly

squiggly

3,277
263
I know your not supposed to water at night but the way i see it is it rains at night and day in nature.

This is a golden outlook and ALL growers EVERYWHERE would do well to take it as golden advice.

So many non-sensical suggestions have been made which fly in the face of what we know from nature. It doesn't make sense.

If you have no air movement, no dehumidifying capacity (as nature does), and all of those things--sure you probably don't want to foliar at night.

If you're doing your best to replicate nature then it stands to reason that it doesn't make much of a difference. As a matter of fact in many places (California and the emerald triangle being one such place) it actually rains more at night on average than it does during the day.

I mean I hate to be a hippy about it, considering I am a scientist, but if it's good for nature it's good for me.

I think probably the most detrimental thing to new growers is that they get bombarded with all of this information which is so specific when the reality is there's been almost no botanical study of this plant--not in a sense which will deliver high correlations.

It's mostly guesswork, and while experience can help a lot of people--it helps them in many cases conditionally based on how close their environment is to the person's who is giving the advice. This is why scientific inquiry is so important, because it controls all of these variables and gives proper conditional advice based on a VARIETY of conditions--and accounts for the changes expected between them.

Most information like this kind of thing (don't foliar at light off) did not come from such study.

The most honest answer you can give on something like this is who the hell knows. When I find that to be the case I go with common sense--and as jeffadies points out, it's common sense that it rains at night.
 
caveman4.20

caveman4.20

5,969
313
Please report back if coyote helps you find the perfect model battery powered sprayer. Im tired of pumping too and been onto the wagner idea for a while now, yet too cheap to go shopping (which is dumb since I foliar every day). FYI, I know a couple guys who use the backpack style, but prob a little overkill for some of us..
at first i thought it was overkill but actually better on my back that back pack and i water container with it too it areates the roots nice and keeps the tops of soil nice anyway i think the more sativa dominant the more foliar helps and the drier your local environment it is the more it helps and as squiggly put it the more you replicate nature the more ok you are if not then you will need a dehuey or you will regret all the foliar apps 80 tops rh in veg and no more than 60 rh in flower seems to be a fine comprimise in pros and cons the more organic the better in my opinion too less in my case no PM ever bacteria and fungus eat it up any whoo i love me some foliars and like to adjust my ph with the strentgh of compost tea and well water i love my ph at about 7.5 to 8 and that happens with a kelp compost tea with low humic and my well water helps me keep that ph right and not too acidic you got plenty of acidic usually in roots and im not afraid to foliar when light are on or deep into flowering actually if i have too much nitrogen in the end i foliar with str8 RO and the shades of dark green lighten up but i DO NOT recomend foliar past week 5 like suggested before UNLESS you have dehuey control and RO ONLY later then week 5 Peace out and be careful if you foliar in BARE BULB rooms
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
23,596
638
The reason I asked is bc after googling peppermint oil it seems it has antimicrobial/bacterial/fungal properties.
Yes, but I'm not sure how that would conflict with using kelp.

Click, I sure in hell hope these aren't RAs! I'm going with the assumption that what I have are FGs because what I notice are flyers, and they started right away with very low numbers from the get-go. So, I'm continuing to approach them as FGs. Otherwise, if I'm wrong, I'm gonna be chasing my ample tail.
 
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