Some kind of deficiency

[Haggardass]

Soil Growers:
1. Are you growing from seed or clones? Seed
2. How old are your plants? About a month old
3. How tall are your plants? About 16 inches tall
4. What size containers are they planted in? 1 gallon pots
5. What is your soil mix? FFOF
6. How often do you water and what type of water do you use? Now watering is up to every other day/ RO water
7. What is the pH of your water? Not sure just RO water 6.5?
8. What kind of fertilizer do you use and what is its NPK ratio? Just used alaska fish fertilizer night before last (last watering) 5-1-1
9. Do you foliar feed or spray your plants with anything? Not in the last two weeks, but then only plain RO water.
10. What kind of lights do you use and how many watts combined? (HPS, MH, fluorescent, halogen, incandescent "plant lights") 1000 watt hps but they were under 2 big cfls for the last week while waiting on my new hps bulb to show up.
11. How close are your lights to the plants? about three feet from hps, but they were about an inch below the cfls until I switched day before yesterday. (Friday)
12. What size is your grow space in square feet? 4x4 mylar tent
13. What is the temperature and humidity in your grow space? 77-79f and about 50-60% rh
14. What is the pH of the soil? Not sure I mix lime in with it so it should be ok
15. Have you noticed any insect activity in your grow space? None
16. How much experience do you have growing? Been growing for three years, just never had this problem in veg

This problem is happening on the top of two plants, technically these are lower branches but I topped then my hps bulb blew so I put them under the cfls, where they stretched like crazy, These branches are now on the top of the plant, I have also seen yellowing in the bottom leaves, which i believe to be N def. I fed them the other night 2 tblsp of fish fert 511. Will an N def show up in lower branches that have grown up to the canopy? Most of the dying leaves are on the second node down from the top of the plant but the striping is on the lower branches that have grown into the canopy. It starts from the tips of the leaves on the outer edge then works its way in.

 

[Haggardass]

just a few more from the worst plant.

 

[CropAndGardn]

That is definitely not a deficiency.
Discoloration from deficiencies is only a change in hue & or contrast, potash def can show some burn on the tips
Those spots are necrosis from fungal/bacterial blight or less likely a strain of mosaic virus.
Chemical burn is more symmetrical.
There are many chemical & organic fungicides that treat blight, remove affected leaves, be steril you can spray w/ fungicide or H2O2 solution before & after you remove leaves.
I always recommend a mycorrhizal / trichodermal blend like plant success, sub-culture a/b or great white to fight & prevent disease.
Overall your plants look healthy

 

[Haggardass]

Maaaan I dont even wanna fight an infection lol can I just cut it down and call it safe? or is this something thats going to take hold on my others? Im not willing to risk my c99s or my afghan kush for these theyre only nirvana white widows. Or is the h2o2 thing a good solution?

 

[Haggardass]

So how much do I use when I water? Or do I use it as a foliar spray, or what is your suggestion to do now as far as h202 goes? I have some, actually a big ass bottle of it so if I can use that for treating this I would be ecstatic.

 

[CropAndGardn]

You can water with H2O2 for more O2 but it can kill beneficials in the rhizosphere when used in concentrations high enough to kill pathogens.
Foliar spray, The ratio depends on the strength of the H2O2 3%, 30% etc.
Pharmacy H2O2 is usually 3%, Horticultural H2O2 is usually 30%.
To water you want 1ml/4l of actual H2O2 so 3ml/4l of 30% or 30ml/4l of 3%.
To foliar feed you can use up to double, just test on small area first.
Your problem doesn't look crucial, Just remove the affected leaves spray w/H2O2 before, after & daily, it works great. You can use it every day as a preventive method as well.
If more damage appears the f. or b. is resilient or it might be a virus & you want to get rid of them before investing more into them or risk contamination.

I use unscented air sanitizers in the timed dispensers that mount on the wall. Target or walmart carries them. Ozium makes a kit. It even kills insect larva.
I swear by the sanitizers, you don't ever spray your plants only the air, it's automatic & inexpensive. Just set a reminder to change it every couple weeks, it's so worry free you'll forget about it.

 

[Haggardass]

I have the 3% so your saying 1ml of h202 for a gallon of water?
Also is this the ozium your talking about i have seen these before?
is this form of blight air born?Or any blight for that matter.
Im asking more so if it will spread to my other plants, I went in the room earlier and cut off all the infected stuff, I didn't spray any peroxide because I didn't know how much to use lol,
so am I going to be in danger of more problems as a result of not spraying? Thank you for all your help I remember having something like this a few years ago but I just cut everything off and it never got any worse. Ill stick with the foliar spraying I'm going to soak the whole plant that's really infected and see what it does, it will be my tester, then in a day or two if there is no ill affects ill spray the rest,

how long before i see results?
sorry about the 100 questions just want to get this under control, Ive been all over google doing my own research since you told me what the deal was and I haven't found much at all on the matter.

 

[Haggardass]

ps those should be the last of my questions lol thanks again

 

[Haggardass]

I mean every jug of ro water I've ever used in the past had aph of 6.5 i just kind of figured this wouldn't be far off, and I havent, up until Friday, put any nutrients in this soil, so with that i just figured it most likely be ph because everything I've done this time if the same i have always done, as far as lime and ro water.

 

[CropAndGardn]

30 ml/4l of 3%
30 ml of 3% = 1 ml of actual peroxide

TimeMist

Blight is fungal or bacterial the way it spreads depends on what kind.
Pics:


Organocide is organic and is avail at home depot it is a very effective fung/insecticide totally safe for veg.

Identify your disease: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_hemp_diseases

6.5 is the highest you should let it get. 5.6 is better. 6.5 water mixes in the medium and raises. Test the Ph of your soil. If it is high that could be your problem, but if youve been using that water for 3 yrs. it doesn't sound likely. You may have used something that raises ph
This chart is for plants in general, Cannabis is acid loving so the green bar needs to be
moved back .3 or .4

http://img81.invalid.com/img81/3238/phchartys0.jpg

 

[CropAndGardn]

 

[Haggardass]

I thought 5.6 was ph for hydro, I've always read that ideal for soil is 6.3 to 6.5 or so, Im going to grab some organocide tomorrow from the depot, Im hoping that will fix this problem, Is organocide safe for preventative measures? Do you happen to know if alaska fish fert will raise or lower? Thats the only thing I have done any different then normal, although these problems started before I used it.

 

[Haggardass]

How much organocide do i use? I read on the bottle it's two ozs per gallon but I don't use ozs so it's a little more difficult to figure or lol

 

[Seamaiden]

I disagree, it looks like a combination P- and K- to my eyes, with the plant using up N as evidenced by the lower leaves. Nothing else about the plant's aspect/appearance says disease to me. Of course I could be wrong, but I would advise some foliar feedings.

Haggard, pH is specific to media, obviously with a limit. You are correct, if you're measuring pH in soil, you want to see it in the mid-6 range, I personally allow for as high as 6.8 when I'm measuring, and specifically in soil. When growing in coir, I shoot for 5.8-6.2, with 6.0 being a sweet spot specifically for coir.

In any event, I'm going to attach my favorite graph and graphic, two tools that I still use to this very day to help me Dx any problems. One is a pictographic of cannabis leaves in various stages and deficiencies. It does have a mistake in that Ca is listed as a mobile element, it is immobile. The other is a very simple flow chart that, while not complete, is still helpful for figuring out the 'big chunks.'

 

[Haggardass]

I will look into that as well thank you for your help seamaiden i think I'm gong to go buy done better nutrients, idk if this fish fert is cutting it

 

[Seamaiden]

If that's all you're using, no, it won't cut it. In Fox Farms, with additional lime only? Guaranteed to not even cut the softest of cheeses, not even a fresh chevre.

 

[Haggardass]

This i believe is the beginning of the problem and then it gets worse from there.

 

[Haggardass]

Ps I have already looked for bugs idk if this looks like m ites or not but there are no bugs in sight.

 

[Seamaiden]

If it were mites the stippling would not be quite so even. If that's occurring on the newer growth, upper leaves, then it's a classic Ca- (calcium deficiency). Corrected via root and foliar feeding, can only be stopped from progressing, cannot correct previous necrosis.

Seriously, save those charts I posted yesterday. If you look at the graphic alone you'll see what you're observing being depicted. If you use the flow chart along with it, that allows you to 'fine tune' your observations and response.

 

[Haggardass]

If it were mites the stippling would not be quite so even. If that's occurring on the newer growth, upper leaves, then it's a classic Ca- (calcium deficiency). Corrected via root and foliar feeding, can only be stopped from progressing, cannot correct previous necrosis.

Seriously, save those charts I posted yesterday. If you look at the graphic alone you'll see what you're observing being depicted. If you use the flow chart along with it, that allows you to 'fine tune' your observations and response.

Ya I saved them and the reason I noticed those spots is because I looked at the chat and thought it looked a lot like ca def. I'm going to get see calmag and some other stuff at the store today.thank you again for all your help