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House & Garden how I saved money!

  • Thread starter Thread starter nightmarecreature
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House & Garden how I saved money!

nightmarecreature 325 Replies 70,751 Views
Page 6 of 17 · Replies 101–120 of 326
#102
drknockbootz said:
Im currently using moab but Im switching over to the salts you can get 20lbs bags of this stuff for the same price as a jar of moab.

Also just overdosed an alfalfa tea late into flowering and its shooting new calyxs out just as if I was using shooting powder. Got me wondering
Click to expand...

I'll probably wind up doing something like that again using salts, hope not too soon though.
 
#103
Capulator said:
Shoudl add silica first brother. Nice post!

Also if you use my bennies you can drop all the other beneficials (GW etc). Shit is waaay more concentrated and about half the price.
Click to expand...
Why silica first, I always add last since I use it to ph up also.
Confu
 
#104
Capulator said:
Shoudl add silica first brother. Nice post!

Also if you use my bennies you can drop all the other beneficials (GW etc). Shit is waaay more concentrated and about half the price.
Click to expand...

I have been adding it last because after my bases and additives, it's acidic and I use the silica as a PH up. I have no PH up other than silica. It never clouds up for me. I was using silica blast and switched to dyna Gro ProTekt and never looked back.

I have been wanting to run your bennies for a long time. I have been waiting to run out of Great White and Root Bloom. I've done little experiments. I took a fresh bag of coco and added water to it and put it in a warm dark place for a couple days. When I took it out, it was moldy as hell. The second bag I added a ton of spores to my Bennie tea. The third bag I used a tiny tiny pinch of spores. Both bags never molded. I store my coco soaked in bennies and then let it dry till it's damp and store it.

I own a flow hood and used to grow mushroom for ten years. I grew all types and had a huge collection of cultures. Shiitake, Oyster mushroom, cubensis,coplandias, ect. I stored them on Petri dishes. I learned a lot of things. For one, spores are microscopic, if you can see the spores you have hundreds of thousands of them clumped together. Bacteria and fungi grow rapidly, bacteria being faster. Because they grow so fast in a tea, it's really overkill to add more than a pinch. I never use a scoop because I know it's a waste, they are multiplying like crazy because you gave them an optimal environment. What's more important than the amount of spores, is the species your using. I know Caps uses spores that others do not and that's why I can't wait to run them.
Hell I could even make my own spores if I inoculated a grain jar with the species I wanted and waited for it to sporulate but I'd rather pay for the convenience
just like my base nutes.

Please post the MOAB clone recipe!
 
#105
drknockbootz said:
Im currently using moab but Im switching over to the salts you can get 20lbs bags of this stuff for the same price as a jar of moab.

Also just overdosed an alfalfa tea late into flowering and its shooting new calyxs out just as if I was using shooting powder. Got me wondering
Click to expand...

Interesting. Do you think it's doing that because alfalfa has a good amount of Nitrogen and growth hormones?

What's the NPK on the 20lb bags? I found some that were pretty close to the MOAB.
 
#106
RECIPE FOR MOAB w/out vitamin B-1 @ 1 tsp/5 gal:

.1 grams/gal MAP
1.07 grams per gallon MKP

this is based on my MOAB weighing 5.7 grams per teaspoon and coming out to

N:3
P:68
K: 80

when added to 5 gallons of water (recommended dose is 1-2 tsp per 5 gal)

.1 MAP and 1.07 MKP comes out to

N: 3
P: 71
K: 80

so its pretty close considering the small amounts being used. If you want 2 tsp/5 gal strength just double it. .2 MAP and 2.14 MKP.



I was always told to add silica first, due to lockout, but if it isn't getting cloudy at all then by all means carry on.

If you are adding it last to adjust pH, maybe you should measure out your pH down better. I currently use AN pH down and I know that it takes 1/2ml per gallon to get my tap down to 5.3 after I mix in all my salts. There is no guesswork.
 
#107
Awesome thread/conversation I learned alot reading this , much appreciated , hate to just jump in but thought it was worth mentioning .
 
#108
Capulator said:
RECIPE FOR MOAB w/out vitamin B-1 @ 1 tsp/5 gal:

.1 grams/gal MAP
1.07 grams per gallon MKP

this is based on my MOAB weighing 5.7 grams per teaspoon and coming out to

N:3
P:68
K: 80

when added to 5 gallons of water (recommended dose is 1-2 tsp per 5 gal)

.1 MAP and 1.07 MKP comes out to

N: 3
P: 71
K: 80

so its pretty close considering the small amounts being used. If you want 2 tsp/5 gal strength just double it. .2 MAP and 2.14 MKP.



I was always told to add silica first, due to lockout, but if it isn't getting cloudy at all then by all means carry on.

If you are adding it last to adjust pH, maybe you should measure out your pH down better. I currently use AN pH down and I know that it takes 1/2ml per gallon to get my tap down to 5.3 after I mix in all my salts. There is no guesswork.
Click to expand...


I don't really use my PH down. After I mix my nutes, my PH is around 5.0 I then use Silica to bring it up to 5.5 or 5.8. I use my PHdown when I mess up and my PH goes over 6.0
 
#109
This is the Free sample pack you get from Beneficial Biologics. Pricey on it's own, but the stuff worked great.
IMG 1110
 
#113
Capulator said:
RECIPE FOR MOAB w/out vitamin B-1 @ 1 tsp/5 gal:

.1 grams/gal MAP
1.07 grams per gallon MKP

this is based on my MOAB weighing 5.7 grams per teaspoon and coming out to

N:3
P:68
K: 80

when added to 5 gallons of water (recommended dose is 1-2 tsp per 5 gal)

.1 MAP and 1.07 MKP comes out to

N: 3
P: 71
K: 80

so its pretty close considering the small amounts being used. If you want 2 tsp/5 gal strength just double it. .2 MAP and 2.14 MKP.



I was always told to add silica first, due to lockout, but if it isn't getting cloudy at all then by all means carry on.

If you are adding it last to adjust pH, maybe you should measure out your pH down better. I currently use AN pH down and I know that it takes 1/2ml per gallon to get my tap down to 5.3 after I mix in all my salts. There is no guesswork.
Click to expand...

Just used this today,^^^^^^with 2 mL old Fire...:D,
 
#115
What Brand of Silica is everyone using to bring up PH, ? I still have a few gallons of AN Ph Up that shit will burn ya if it get on your skin,
 
#116
oscar169 said:
What Brand of Silica is everyone using to bring up PH, ? I still have a few gallons of AN Ph Up that shit will burn ya if it get on your skin,
Click to expand...


Yep. RO. I bought my RO system for $80. It's for aquariums and has lasted me two years now. It's slow but works great.

I personally like Dyna Gro's Silica called ProTekt. I used to use Botanicare Silica Blast. They both work fine, dyna Gro silica is more concentrated and I like it better. Botanicare has good stuff but most of it seems really watered down.

I haven't used any other brand but those, so maybe someone can comment on Rhino skin or other silicas.
 
#117
That's the same thing my water does , it drops to like 4.5 ph, I use a shit ton of the ph up, I'm not even sure what is in AN Ph up
 
#120
Delerium said:
what is the diff between humid and fulvic acid?
Click to expand...

I use humic acid as an additive. I tried to use Fulvic acid in my mix and I just kept burning my plants. Fulvic acid is powerful stuff, even at 1/4 strength, it was roasting my plants. I only foliar spray Fulvic with full organic N-P-K nutes. I just don't like salt on my leaves.
The humic acid helps uptake without burning my plants.

With Fulvic and humic, I only need to use 4mls of cocos A + B each per gallon for vegging 4 foot moms.Without it, I think I was using 8ml per gallon.

  • As a foliar spray, fulvic acidincreases the plant’s oxygen uptake capacity with an associated increase in chlorophyl production and an increase in the permeability of plant membranes,improving the uptake of nutrients.
 
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