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Flushing is a bad practice based on flawed science.

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Flushing is a bad practice based on flawed science.

YarraSparra 567 Replies 149,637 Views
Page 10 of 29 · Replies 181–200 of 568
#182
SunGrown said:
you can get phos pro from grow more to use along side the cns, I have for years with good results
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Do tell,......the Cns is a general run for phenos but i have many good things to say about it. Next run Back to the UCs and CULTURED SOLUTIONS getting tired re-building the wheel every grow. But i always want to know whats being learned, even when it does not directly apply!
 
#183
HHHhhmmmmm,.......Your never going to guess who pulled his account, and in prime form threatened us all with (wait for it) "EXPOSURE" on Google, cuz ya know were BAD PEOPLE.

Classic whiner bahavior right there! My work here is done, now back to class.
 
#184
UCMETOO said:
Do tell,......the Cns is a general run for phenos but i have many good things to say about it. Next run Back to the UCs and CULTURED SOLUTIONS getting tired re-building the wheel every grow. But i always want to know whats being learned, even when it does not directly apply!
Click to expand...
phos_pro.jpg

Grow more also sells a very affordable potassium silcate that the plant can actually use. Botanicare silicate has sodium silicate as well as potassium silicate...we only need the potassium silicate. And grow more is much cheaper and much more concentrated. You can actually water only all thru veg (probably flower as well, but I wouldn't) as long as you foliar grow more.

CNS 17 or pure blend pro are both really good products. Best way to buy them is direct in 55 gallon drums.
 
#185
UCMETOO said:
HHHhhmmmmm,.......Your never going to guess who pulled his account, and in prime form threatened us all with (wait for it) "EXPOSURE" on Google, cuz ya know were BAD PEOPLE.

Classic whiner bahavior right there! My work here is done, now back to class.
Click to expand...

Your work? I thought it was a collective effort :P
 
#186
SunGrown said:
phos_pro.jpg

Grow more also sells a very affordable potassium silcate that the plant can actually use. Botanicare silicate has sodium silicate as well as potassium silicate...we only need the potassium silicate. And grow more is much cheaper and much more concentrated. You can actually water only all thru veg (probably flower as well, but I wouldn't) as long as you foliar grow more.

CNS 17 or pure blend pro are both really good products. Best way to buy them is direct in 55 gallon drums.
Click to expand...

55 Gallon durms, i hate moving the 20's!!!
 
#188
UCMETOO said:
55 Gallon durms, i hate moving the 20's!!!
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lol, get em delivered to a friends shop and use their forklift to load them in your truck. Then just roll em off the truck...they have sealed bung holes...lol, I said bung holes!
 
#192
UCMETOO said:
I could really see that, since i've moved up to 55 gallon drums for 99% ISO.
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bongobongo said:
I like 55 gallon drums of ISO, makes me feel good :)
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I gotta ask.... Da fuck are you guys using 55 Gallons of ISO for???? I keep a gallon or 2 on hand but a 55 gallon drum??? ya'l got me curious as fuck :D
 
#196
UCMETOO said:
thank you, amazing what you can learn if your OPEN, and not insecure!

wondered because i've seen/heard the plants get crazy for the Cal after you add the Aphrodities, and having none in reserve with CNS did not want to cause a deficency at the flag!

now that seems right on the BULLSEYE for POINT!
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Aphro will certainly add a little higher need for Calcium but if you're just using it in the end, according to my flushing regimen, you wont have to supplement any additional CA at that time.

Glad I can offer helpful info!
 
#198
I am for flushing, but by definition more like cutting back and letting the plant feed on all its reserves. Flush for 10-14 days and half of that time with supplementary carbohydrates whether you use molasses or Bud Candy etc.. That way they are not absolutely starved if that is the worry. Sugars = Energy ; Ph'd RO sugar water.
 
#199
Wow, the new guy gets the thread back on track! Yay new guy!
outwest said:
I've never heard that sand or clay are what separates a soil medium from a soilless medium. Did a little searching and was not able to corroborate that either.

outwest
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Technically speaking, soil must have mineral content. Let me see if I can find that information for you, but I'll say that I've always considered the HF to be soil, but that's just a whopping opinion. It's been too long since I've even looked at the ingredients.

http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/wps/portal/nrcs/detail/soils/edu/?cid=nrcs142p2_054280
https://www.soils.org/publications/soils-glossary/


And finally, one of my favorite articles on "well mineralized" soil.
SunGrown said:
here is a good read for those of you discussing soil/soiless mixes.

It is based on greenhouse production which is most relevant to the way most of us garden, inside or out.

http://www.ifoam-eu.org/sites/defau...reg_greenhouse_production_position_201302.pdf
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Nice find/share!

So... what are we on about at this point?
 
#200
Sorry I'm late to the party. I'm a first time grower and fast approaching the final 2 weeks of flower. I've read this thread with great interest. It seems there are two angles to this debate. One is that stressing the plants at the end of flower will increase yield. The other is that water feeding will remove excess elements that can negatively affect burn and taste. Regarding yield, how much of a difference would a plain-water regimen over the last 7-10 days really make in bud production? It seems that's a pretty short amount of time to gain any appreciable variance.

To the latter point, I lean toward the hypothesis that a final 7-10 days of plain-water feeding puts the plants under stress that could adversely affect the final product. Wouldn't the plants be forced to manage nutrient deficiencies during a crucial phase of their cycle, to their detriment? I also wonder if significant differences in the amount of dissolved nutrients in the root-zone might stress the roots to the point of physical damage. Also, many immobile elements, like calcium, iron and sulfur may no longer be available to perform their specific functions.

As others have suggested, the answer to the bad burn/harsh taste may be in the proper drying and curing of the harvest.

Am I going to bet the farm on any of this? Uh, no. : ) I think a gradual draw-down of nutrient forces may be in order, with plain water for the last one or two waterings. And a very proper, by the book, dry and cure...

BTW, I've hit many forum sites since the beginning of this first grow and am very impressed with the level of discussion and assistance provided by the members of thcfarmer.

thnx

phil
 
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