Pm Or Mold - How Do You Deal With It And How Do You Get It?

[DWCgrower]

 

[Toaster79]

3% H2O2 and isopropyl alcohol sprayed all over them and stabilize humidity and temperatures if it's not S you smoked them with.

 

[SonOfDaMourning]

Damn bro your wayyyy deep! Its gotten to the stems and is in mass like pollen from a male. Id hate to say it so i wont but if you wanna try and fight it youll have to drench in 10:1 water to milk, this raises the surface ph and will ONLY deter it as long as you treat thoroughly and when needed. Mixing some h2o2 in the mix wont hurt unless you go crazy with it in the mix.
Ultimately you will need to take everything apart and sterilize the room and everything in it. You can literally harvest spored from the pics above.

 

[DWCgrower]

Damn bro your wayyyy deep! Its gotten to the stems and is in mass like pollen from a male. Id hate to say it so i wont but if you wanna try and fight it youll have to drench in 10:1 water to milk, this raises the surface ph and will ONLY deter it as long as you treat thoroughly and when needed. Mixing some h2o2 in the mix wont hurt unless you go crazy with it in the mix.
Ultimately you will need to take everything apart and sterilize the room and everything in it. You can literally harvest spored from the pics above.

Courtesy of Urban Garden

How to Beat Powdery Mildew

BY URBAN GARDEN MAGAZINE ⋅ AUGUST 6, 2009 ⋅



If there’s one grower’s gripe we hear lots about at Urban Garden HQ it’s Powdery Mildew. So we asked our heavyweight in the pest control department, Zorro Torro, to lend some expert advice on what this nasty stuff is, what damage it causes your plants, and, most importantly, how to beat the crap out of it!

You’ll know powdery mildew has paid your plants a visit when it looks lot like confectioners’ sugar has been sprinkled on the plant leaves. At first it may be hard to spot as it might appear on just a small portion of the leaf appearing as an irregular circle. But it quickly spreads and soon appears on the surrounding vegetation. Soon the entire leaf is covered and at the same time colonies develop on the surrounding vegetation and in other areas of the garden.

So how does it all start? Well, the plant becomes infected when an airborne spore, or conidia, lands on a leaf and germinates. It soon grows a guide tube that attaches tightly to the leaf. Then it pierces the plant cell wall and membrane and inserts a hollow tube that sucks up plant nutrients, weakening the leaf and slowing growth. Within a week the fungus produces tiny mushroom stalks that release millions of spores, ready to infect more leaf surfaces. The fungus also produces a secondary spore, which over-winters outdoors and may also hide in a greenhouse or indoor garden even after the crop has been harvested.

Powdery mildew is most likely to attack the young leaves, up to two or three weeks old.

A dozen or so different fungus fall under the heading of Powdery Mildew, but two different fungus species are the most likely culprits. L. taurica, tends to attack warmer gardens. It prefers a temperature of about 77 °F (25 °C). S. macularisprefers a cooler temperature; however, the more virulent stain found in indoor gardens today has adapted to tolerate more heat. Both strains thrive in moderate humidity and are not injured by water. Their conidia can live in water for short periods and are mobile in it. However, strong water sprays do destroy some conidia.

CULTURAL CONTROL

Heat

Powdery mildew is sensitive to heat. Neither species will grow at 90 °F (32 °C). and will quickly perish when above 100 ° F (38 °C).

To get a complete kill maintain the temperature for an hour. This may not be a feasible option in most indoor gardens for several reasons. The first is that it may be difficult to heat the space to such a high temperature. The second is that even a single peak of 100 ° F (38 °C) affects the growth of plants. Vegetative plants with flowers or fruits in mid stage growth (weeks 3-7) may stretch a little from the experience. The heat treatment has relatively little effect on first and second week flowers or flowers nearing maturity.

You can minimize heat’s impact on plants in several ways. Heat the garden at the end of the day, as the lights are turned off. Since the plants are not photosynthesizing, they have lower water needs.

If the plants are being grown hydroponically, lower the temperature of the water to 60 degrees. Keeping the roots cool will help the upper plant parts beat the heat. It’s not difficult to do this, even if you don’t have a water chiller. Just add ice to the reservoir or flow through system. Roots of plants growing in soil can also be cooled using thermal ice packs at the base of the stem.

The heat treatment should kill off most of the fungus and its spores. The chances are there will still be some fungal re-growth. These can be eliminated using spot treatments.

Pruning

If one particular plant seems to be infected with a few tiny white spots on a few of its leaves, get a bag large enough to drop the leaves into and then cut them off into the bag. Remove the bag from the room. This prevents spores, the white powder on top of the leaves, from becoming airborne while being removed. Remember to wash your hands and clean the scissors or knife with soap and water, hydrogen peroxide, alcohol or bleach. Spray the plant with one of the sprays listed below after pruning to prevent re-infection and encourage healing.

If, you notice a re-infection a few days later, there is a good chance that this plant is very susceptible to powdery mildew and presents a good location for the infection to start and spread from. The plant should be removed immediately by placing a bag over it and removing it from the space. Then the space should be sprayed with one of the sprays listed below.

ORGANIC and IPM CONTROL

Here are some sprays that you can use to control the powdery mildew in your crop. All of these are safe to use for herb or for edible crops. Sprays are washed away by water, including rain.

Cinnamon Oil and Tea

Cinnamon is an effective destroyer of powdery mildew, with an effectiveness rate of 50-70%. It won’t kill it completely but it will keep it in check somewhat. It also potentiates other suppressive sprays so it is good to use in combination. To make your own, boil water, turn off the heat and add one ounce of ground cinnamon to one and a half pints water. Let the tea cool to room temperature. Add half a pint of 100 proof grain alcohol or rubbing alcohol and let sit. Strain the cinnamon. The spray is ready to use. A faster method is to add 2 teaspoons cinnamon oil to one pint of water and a dash of castile soap. Other herbs are also fungicidal. Clove, rosemary, and wintergreen oils are used in some botanical fungicides. The solution should consist of no more than 2% oil.

Garlic

Garlic is antifungal and anti-bacterial and has several pathways for destroying fungi including its high sulfur content. It can also be added to other anti-fungal sprays. Several garlic sprays are available commercially.

A homemade formula: Soak three ounces of crushed garlic in one ounce of neem or sesame oil and 100 proof or higher drinking alcohol or 70% or higher rubbing alcohol for a day or two. Strain. Then soak the garlic in a cup of water for a day. Strain. Mix the oil/alcohol, soaked water and 1 tablespoon liquid castile soap in a gallon container. Then fill with water and shake. The formula is ready to use.

A simpler brew consists of a teaspoon of garlic oil in a pint of water. To keep the oil and water mixed add a 1/8teaspoon of soap. Use garlic as a vaccination. Spray on new growth before there is a sign of infection.

Garlic is a general purpose insecticide as well as fungicide, so it should be used with caution on outdoor plants. It kills beneficial insects as well as plant pests.

Hydrogen Peroxide

Hydrogen peroxide (hp) is a contact fungicide that leaves no residue. It is an oxidized product of water and has an extra oxygen atom that is slightly negatively charged. When it comes in contact with the fungi the oxygen atoms attach to molecules on the cell walls, oxidizing or “burning” them.

Household hp sold in drug stores has a concentration of 3%. Garden shops sell 10% hp. Zerotol® contains 27% hydrogen peroxide and an unstated amount of peroxyacetic acid. Together they have a more potent chemistry than hp, with an activity of about 40% hp. It is considered hazardous because it can cause skin burn similar to that caused by concentrated acids.

To treat plants with drug store grade 3% hp use 4 1/2 tablespoons and fill to make a pint of solution, or a quart of hp to 3 quarts of water. With horticultural grade 10% hp use about 4 teaspoons per pint, 5 ounces per gallon. With Zerotol® use about 1 teaspoon per pint, 2 1/2 tablespoons per gallon.

 

[Papa]

how about, "How do I avoid it?"

good air circulation

 

[caregiverken]

Courtesy of Urban Garden

How to Beat Powdery Mildew

BY URBAN GARDEN MAGAZINE ⋅ AUGUST 6, 2009 ⋅



If there’s one grower’s gripe we hear lots about at Urban Garden HQ it’s Powdery Mildew. So we asked our heavyweight in the pest control department, Zorro Torro, to lend some expert advice on what this nasty stuff is, what damage it causes your plants, and, most importantly, how to beat the crap out of it!

You’ll know powdery mildew has paid your plants a visit when it looks lot like confectioners’ sugar has been sprinkled on the plant leaves. At first it may be hard to spot as it might appear on just a small portion of the leaf appearing as an irregular circle. But it quickly spreads and soon appears on the surrounding vegetation. Soon the entire leaf is covered and at the same time colonies develop on the surrounding vegetation and in other areas of the garden.

So how does it all start? Well, the plant becomes infected when an airborne spore, or conidia, lands on a leaf and germinates. It soon grows a guide tube that attaches tightly to the leaf. Then it pierces the plant cell wall and membrane and inserts a hollow tube that sucks up plant nutrients, weakening the leaf and slowing growth. Within a week the fungus produces tiny mushroom stalks that release millions of spores, ready to infect more leaf surfaces. The fungus also produces a secondary spore, which over-winters outdoors and may also hide in a greenhouse or indoor garden even after the crop has been harvested.

Powdery mildew is most likely to attack the young leaves, up to two or three weeks old.

A dozen or so different fungus fall under the heading of Powdery Mildew, but two different fungus species are the most likely culprits. L. taurica, tends to attack warmer gardens. It prefers a temperature of about 77 °F (25 °C). S. macularisprefers a cooler temperature; however, the more virulent stain found in indoor gardens today has adapted to tolerate more heat. Both strains thrive in moderate humidity and are not injured by water. Their conidia can live in water for short periods and are mobile in it. However, strong water sprays do destroy some conidia.

CULTURAL CONTROL

Heat

Powdery mildew is sensitive to heat. Neither species will grow at 90 °F (32 °C). and will quickly perish when above 100 ° F (38 °C).

To get a complete kill maintain the temperature for an hour. This may not be a feasible option in most indoor gardens for several reasons. The first is that it may be difficult to heat the space to such a high temperature. The second is that even a single peak of 100 ° F (38 °C) affects the growth of plants. Vegetative plants with flowers or fruits in mid stage growth (weeks 3-7) may stretch a little from the experience. The heat treatment has relatively little effect on first and second week flowers or flowers nearing maturity.

You can minimize heat’s impact on plants in several ways. Heat the garden at the end of the day, as the lights are turned off. Since the plants are not photosynthesizing, they have lower water needs.

If the plants are being grown hydroponically, lower the temperature of the water to 60 degrees. Keeping the roots cool will help the upper plant parts beat the heat. It’s not difficult to do this, even if you don’t have a water chiller. Just add ice to the reservoir or flow through system. Roots of plants growing in soil can also be cooled using thermal ice packs at the base of the stem.

The heat treatment should kill off most of the fungus and its spores. The chances are there will still be some fungal re-growth. These can be eliminated using spot treatments.

Pruning

If one particular plant seems to be infected with a few tiny white spots on a few of its leaves, get a bag large enough to drop the leaves into and then cut them off into the bag. Remove the bag from the room. This prevents spores, the white powder on top of the leaves, from becoming airborne while being removed. Remember to wash your hands and clean the scissors or knife with soap and water, hydrogen peroxide, alcohol or bleach. Spray the plant with one of the sprays listed below after pruning to prevent re-infection and encourage healing.

If, you notice a re-infection a few days later, there is a good chance that this plant is very susceptible to powdery mildew and presents a good location for the infection to start and spread from. The plant should be removed immediately by placing a bag over it and removing it from the space. Then the space should be sprayed with one of the sprays listed below.

ORGANIC and IPM CONTROL

Here are some sprays that you can use to control the powdery mildew in your crop. All of these are safe to use for herb or for edible crops. Sprays are washed away by water, including rain.

Cinnamon Oil and Tea

Cinnamon is an effective destroyer of powdery mildew, with an effectiveness rate of 50-70%. It won’t kill it completely but it will keep it in check somewhat. It also potentiates other suppressive sprays so it is good to use in combination. To make your own, boil water, turn off the heat and add one ounce of ground cinnamon to one and a half pints water. Let the tea cool to room temperature. Add half a pint of 100 proof grain alcohol or rubbing alcohol and let sit. Strain the cinnamon. The spray is ready to use. A faster method is to add 2 teaspoons cinnamon oil to one pint of water and a dash of castile soap. Other herbs are also fungicidal. Clove, rosemary, and wintergreen oils are used in some botanical fungicides. The solution should consist of no more than 2% oil.

Garlic

Garlic is antifungal and anti-bacterial and has several pathways for destroying fungi including its high sulfur content. It can also be added to other anti-fungal sprays. Several garlic sprays are available commercially.

A homemade formula: Soak three ounces of crushed garlic in one ounce of neem or sesame oil and 100 proof or higher drinking alcohol or 70% or higher rubbing alcohol for a day or two. Strain. Then soak the garlic in a cup of water for a day. Strain. Mix the oil/alcohol, soaked water and 1 tablespoon liquid castile soap in a gallon container. Then fill with water and shake. The formula is ready to use.

A simpler brew consists of a teaspoon of garlic oil in a pint of water. To keep the oil and water mixed add a 1/8teaspoon of soap. Use garlic as a vaccination. Spray on new growth before there is a sign of infection.

Garlic is a general purpose insecticide as well as fungicide, so it should be used with caution on outdoor plants. It kills beneficial insects as well as plant pests.

Hydrogen Peroxide

Hydrogen peroxide (hp) is a contact fungicide that leaves no residue. It is an oxidized product of water and has an extra oxygen atom that is slightly negatively charged. When it comes in contact with the fungi the oxygen atoms attach to molecules on the cell walls, oxidizing or “burning” them.

Household hp sold in drug stores has a concentration of 3%. Garden shops sell 10% hp. Zerotol® contains 27% hydrogen peroxide and an unstated amount of peroxyacetic acid. Together they have a more potent chemistry than hp, with an activity of about 40% hp. It is considered hazardous because it can cause skin burn similar to that caused by concentrated acids.

To treat plants with drug store grade 3% hp use 4 1/2 tablespoons and fill to make a pint of solution, or a quart of hp to 3 quarts of water. With horticultural grade 10% hp use about 4 teaspoons per pint, 5 ounces per gallon. With Zerotol® use about 1 teaspoon per pint, 2 1/2 tablespoons per gallon.

Why start a thread asking, and then post the answers?

how about, "How do I avoid it?"

good air circulation

Great Question and answer...its that easy..Micro bio bennies help too :)
Actinovate is good , but its owned by monsanto, so:rolleyes:

 

[kolah]

That's just nasty. I'd shitcan all of it. Then comes the task of cleaning up your grow area.

I can only assume you didn't spend too much time watching over your plants. Daily inspections are a must, the earlier you catch stuff the easier the fix. PM mold is due to high humidity and poor ventilation, just Basics of Growing 101. Prevention is key...and relatively easy.

It's a good learning curve,, don't get to discouraged and and just go at it again.

 

[DWCgrower]

That's just nasty. I'd shitcan all of it. Then comes the task of cleaning up your grow area.

I can only assume you didn't spend too much time watching over your plants. Daily inspections are a must, the earlier you catch stuff the easier the fix. PM mold is due to high humidity and poor ventilation, just Basics of Growing 101. Prevention is key...and relatively easy.

It's a good learning curve,, don't get to discouraged and and just go at it again.

assumption is a mother of all fuckups buddy

and yes I did look after my plants, the humidity got out of hand for couple of hours and I didn't lollipop the bottoms of some plants and THATS why it happened

anyways I am not scrapping anything but fixing this!

 

[kolah]

assumption is a mother of all fuckups buddy

and yes I did look after my plants, the humidity got out of hand for couple of hours and I didn't lollipop the bottoms of some plants and THATS why it happened

anyways I am not scrapping anything but fixing this!

That's some potent PM ya got there...tore shit up in just two hours?..whew-eee. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

 

[colostoney]

`don't scrap it kolah wouldn't either if it were his only crop get real
idk why he is on a high horse but holier than though is how you are acting
pm is part a growing bro and only posers freak out about it don't trash anything
ya may wanna try a neem regiment or other oil based fungicide and ty to make the dif in your day and night temp as dramatic as possible
certain species a pm thrive in low humidity too

 

[DWCgrower]

`don't scrap it kolah wouldn't either if it were his only crop get real
idk why he is on a high horse but holier than though is how you are acting
pm is part a growing bro and only posers freak out about it don't trash anything
ya may wanna try a neem regiment or other oil based fungicide and ty to make the dif in your day and night temp as dramatic as possible
certain species a pm thrive in low humidity too

Thank you for the advice and understanding. Believe me I do take advice seriously and I don't know much (just as much as I learned in the time doing it) Regarding the temperature swing. I usually have 77 in the day time and maybe 60 at night. The humidity is sometimes at 45%. I am trying to keep it at 60% no more or less but its been an issue due tom my 3 TON 36,000 BTU AC is sucking out most of my humidity and there is no way to turn that feature off. After buying the SULFUR for past 5 days and the last 2 days at 8hr at a time, seems to be fixing my issue with the PM. I will keep it another couple of days and post some pictures of the updated results.

I do have an issue now that I'm burning all the sulfur: for some reason they are not eating but only drinking water. MY PPM's are staying steady :(

 

[DapperDon]

`don't scrap it kolah wouldn't either if it were his only crop get real
idk why he is on a high horse but holier than though is how you are acting
pm is part a growing bro and only posers freak out about it don't trash anything
ya may wanna try a neem regiment or other oil based fungicide and ty to make the dif in your day and night temp as dramatic as possible
certain species a pm thrive in low humidity too

You are the kind of grower that people should avoid like the black fucking plague. So fucking what if it was the only crop. It's also his (and anyone he give this to) only set of lungs too so what is your point? Scrapping it and hitting the reset button is far more effective than these bullshit voodoo medicine witch doctor remedies that can be seen here. How about YOU smoke all those spores pal, as for me I like my bud to be bug/mold/plague free. I just shake my head at how a few shekels or a few weeks can be the deciding factor when people play with things they don't really understand or take the time to research and learn. This is dangerous shit if you put this in your body. But fuck me for passing out some good healthy advice...Did someone actually say to use milk? o_O

 

[LittleDabbie]

Not to sound like a dick but i have to echo the rest of the farms concerns.. Only plant or not If you sell that to anyone your an asshole.

If you smoke that shit your .. weird :D

That plant is literally SNOWING Powder Mildew... If it does somehow make it to flower its going to be so stressed out the nugs are going to be hermied or weak,
There is no saving that plant at this point imho.

Reset..

 

[DANKSY]

green cure 1/2 scoop per gallon spray twice a day for the first week.. then once a day for a week then every other day or til you see it go down... you can spray this til harvest

 

[DWCgrower]

Not to sound like a dick but i have to echo the rest of the farms concerns.. Only plant or not If you sell that to anyone your an asshole.

If you smoke that shit your .. weird :D

That plant is literally SNOWING Powder Mildew... If it does somehow make it to flower its going to be so stressed out the nugs are going to be hermied or weak,
There is no saving that plant at this point imho.

Reset..

Ok if you don't want to sound like a dick then DON'T

Being a grower yourself you know how things work and that being said you should know that scrapping a operation on 3rd week of flower due to PM is fucking crazy and financial suicide

my operation costs me $3,000 a month to support (I'm not going into details to brake it down to you) and If I would scrap it then I would have lost $9,000 - so please now tell me how I should flush my flowering plants down the toilet because of a problem that I ALREADY FIXED?!

I came on this forum to get answers from professionals not some kid that grows one plant in his mothers closet. Stay connected to the subject at hand and give a positive advice and IF you don't have one then DON'T comment at all.

PM is GONE now and all by burning sulfur and doing a PM Wash (simple huh)

 

[LittleDabbie]

Came on in 2 hours and Gone in a day! AMAZING!

My hats off to you :D

 

[DWCgrower]

Came on in 2 hours and Gone in a day! AMAZING!

My hats off to you :D

I never said it was gone in a day (more like a week) and I'm sure it took more then a day to get that way.

Anyways this is not a bitchfest but a forum for exchanging ideas, let's keep it that way shall we?

 

[LittleDabbie]

assumption is a mother of all fuckups buddy

and yes I did look after my plants, the humidity got out of hand for couple of hours and I didn't lollipop the bottoms of some plants and THATS why it happened

To Quote you.. Assumption is a mother of all fuckups BUDDY .. You assumed 1 im a kid, Im 34, 2 You assumed i grow marijuana, Which i do not. ;)

And your right this is not a bitch fest, I said i was not trying to be a dick yet you replied with a pretty dickhead reply....

Lets keep it REAL ;)

I understand loosing money sucks, but selling meds contaminated with mildew sucks even more for the people who are considering it medicine but have no idea there about to smoke mildew..

Forgive us all for being concerned with the health of people who clearly are going to receive your product and i hope to god any disp. that takes that in checks it under a scope before they buy it to ensure it REALLY is clean as you proclaim.

So in an effort to share ideas as you say share with us exactly how you let the mildew get to the point it was snowing ( so other farmers don't make the same mistake ) and exactly how you got rid of it step by step, and how your now 100% sure your plants are free of any mold mildew or harmful bacterias ?

 

[sixstring]

Anyone with mold allergies will get sick if they consume that, so keep that in mind while deciding if its keeper smoke or trashed.if you caught it in early flower or late veg you can clean it up sometimes by mixing sulfer burns with foilar wash downs of plain water or some of the organic fungicides. Gl

 

[colostoney]

im certainly not advocating anyone smoking or sellin weed with mold on it but I don't wanna argue
depending on where ya live PM and spider mitesare gonna be a problem always no matter
20 years growing nonstop I have never trashed a garden for any problem and I haven't ever sold
or even gave away bud with toxic molds on it but pm isn't any more toxic than bread mold
and seriously we ingest millions a those spores and others every day .....
idk but folks told me to trash and start over when I had my first mites or mold 20 years ago and
fuck that ya wanna fuck with me anything best be ready to fight till death im nuts
your best and most effective strategy in these areas is find healthy none toxic ways to deal with them like neem regularly
I know in the soco the damn bugs and pm love my absolute dankest indicas in kush and it sucks
I manage to stop it from every developing much more than spots on the leaves really but
I also notice fall and spring there is a brutal season for both bugs and PM
all the leaves and plant matteris decomposing tons a pm in the air and the damn cold nights
make the bugs here scramble to my indoor rooms for a minute especially when I harvest my outdoor