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Gavita 600 Classic Vs 1000 Hps

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Gavita 600 Classic Vs 1000 Hps

Stalks 63 Replies 19,702 Views
Page 2 of 4 · Replies 21–40 of 64
#22
except the newer 600/750 de runs on 120

dude on monstergardens video review said some dumb ass shite about bc they run at 120 they are more efficient and run cooler - which made me laugh my ass off

@midwestdensies - that is interesting they run at 750 no matter what you have them selected to run at - supposed to run as low as 400

 
#23
Thanks for that video cleared some stuff up. So is the sunsytem reflector with a remotes de more effecient than the all in one regarding par output?
 
#24
midwestdensies said:
If you dim your wasting electricity with that fixture. No joke. It uses 750w regardless.
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That doesn't seem correct. Where would that electricity go...

The 6/750 flex is called 6/750 flex specifically because it works as efficient on 600 as it does on 750. The only way to work as efficient on 600 is to lower the wattage used.

It's uses 795w by the way, on 100%, and on 110%/825 it uses 870w. HPS always uses more than listed for the bulb.
 
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#25
All the new e series gavitas are flex voltage 120/240 including the 600 SE,also when you dial them down im pretty sure you also dial the amps drawn by the ballast down too,if you look at specs you can see the ballast stepping up and down in amps when in boost mode and i beleive the same holds true when dimming down.
 
#26
Like mwd I to thought that they used the same amperage regardless however, fishwhistle is correct they automatically adjust amps to the wattage setting chosen. Javier came into the shop I work at the week before last and I discussed this exact question with him. I have also recently heard that you can put the 600/750 bulb into the 1000 watt e series fixture (not sure if this applies to the classic) and run it as efficient as the 600/750flex fixture would just as long as you don't run it above 825 watts 82% if you have an el-1/2 controller.
 
#27
Whos javier?lol.I can see how the 750 bulb would work in a dimmed 1000 ballast but no way would i risk that,cant see the positive in it except maybe better spectrum for running 600-750?Not sure why anyone would risk or advise putting the wrong bulb in a ballast.
Highly recommend one of these for electrical in your growroom,clamp it arround a supply wire and it tells you how many amps it is,clamp it around a device powercord and it will tell you how many amps its drawing,useful for a ton of things,60 bucks at homeD.
33056446-a2f3-46d8-a96c-e2b4729c1019_400.jpg
 
#31
Personally I like to have my lights dimmed when I bring younger plants into my room to somewhat harden them off for a few days. Then in the last week of flower again I dim my lights and dampen my co2 levels.other than that they are kinda useless. Some ppl have let there plants get to big for their room and require the lights to be dimmed in order to not burn the plants. And again back to the el 1/2 controllers dim lights in order to keep room temps in check if your environment isnt already dialed in.
 
#32
The Terps said:
Personally I like to have my lights dimmed when I bring younger plants into my room to somewhat harden them off for a few days. Then in the last week of flower again I dim my lights and dampen my co2 levels.other than that they are kinda useless. Some ppl have let there plants get to big for their room and require the lights to be dimmed in order to not burn the plants. And again back to the el 1/2 controllers dim lights in order to keep room temps in check if your environment isnt already dialed in.
Click to expand...
I could see this issue but i experience weird growth in the big room only when my humidity is lower than 60% best if around 75-85%, if its on point they just crush instantly
 
#33
I myself really would like to get a handful of the flex series lights. I would run them on 750 setting pretty much exclusively although I would like also play with the sunrise/set option on the controller and monitor humidity spikes in comparison to traditional on off. On my thread terps house I run two tables of gavitas set on 1000 watt with a set of e paps in the middle on 1150watt. They are only classics but if your looking to see another de fixture log feel free to come over.
 
#34
one good feature (re: why lights dim) with the gavitas is if you use the controller you can set s0 id the temps hit a certain point the lights dim until the temps drop below where you set them

better than just an old school heat override that shuts them down completely

also there is a sunrise sunset feature and they claim it gives the plant time to shut down and stop transpiring thus lowering or eliminating the lights off humidity spikes (i may be a bit skeptical re: that claim as my plants seem to know when its about time to rest and start to droop slightly before lights out)

these lights were originally designed for larger commercial applications and not necessarily for weed

I have never dimmed a traditional ballast - but its bc I know it isnt good for the bulb - nor is the color spectrum correct if the bulb isnt burning at the right temp - but always thought it would be nice to start plants transplanted from veg (under t5s) at 600 watts for the first few days - also nice to be able to ramp down the intensity during the ripening phase
 
#36
i recently heard the par numbers change when you dim the gavita 1ks - but havent seen any vid tests or anything - maybe something to google
 
#37
I to heard running your 1k de bulbs at low watage 750 and below will cause the bulbs par levels diminish faster than if ran at a hotter setting. Javier's words were running at low wattage for extended period of time will cause them to degrade faster. He didn't say what what an extended period of time was. I sure would like to see some kinda of figures related to this as well.
 
#38
A lot of the efficiency (Lu/W) with any HID type comes from increasing temperature (also pressure) of the vaporized compounds (not talking CCT). Higher temps also improve CRI for any given mix / HID type as well, but to a lesser degree (than compounds themselves). It would seem entirely possible that PAR would be negatively impacted from the shift in CRI when running lower wattage (I.E. temp).
Of a larger concern may well be the drop in efficiency at lower wattages though.

Was the consensus then, that a 600 SE (or rather 600/750 DE) is comparable to a 1000w standard HPS?
 
#39
I'm currently setting up a room for some comparison of these lights... 3x se 600's and 3x de flex 600/750's on a regular contactor light controller from titan. I only have 90" vertical to work with, so the fixtures might have to be recessed into the drop ceiling if stretch gets outta hand (they're at max height on the photo). Hoping to avoid scorched tops and toasted floorboards lol. Might have to ventilate that drop ceiling to keep it below 100f up there

600se750flex


Fwiw, my cheapo light meter shows that the se bulbs burn brighter than the de when the de is set at 600w; I have to bump the de up to 750w to match the intensity I get from the se 600. Thanks again for the tip @midwestdensies..... these little se 600 fixtures are gems

Does anybody have ideas on how the gavita controller prevents the 'inrush' when lights are switched on? I think I'm mis-reading their info sheets, because it seems the ballast is always drawing power independent of the bulb's status... how ridiculous would that be if the ballast was drawing power even when the bulb was dark? lol.... talk about waste... I must be wrong tho
 
#40
Thanks ftwendy! I can't wait to see the comparison between the two fixtures! Do you have access to a se 1000 to throw that meter under to see the comparison? Also there is more at play here than just intensity such as spectrum and penetration
 
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