Lazerus00
- 2,030
- 263
Sooo jelly! Looks really good bro! Can't wait to get my hands back on some green!:(
way2green
- 1,142
- 263
Anyone can achieve a root system to stranglejold the goodness holdind nutrients and sucking all fluids.......gotta feed those bitches twice per day starting around 40-45 days but the weight and taste will make u tjink u have special powers......truth is a lil science and genetics are very helpful
CBDEMON
- 1,340
- 263
Picked up one of these hygrometer jar caps to test out. I would've just bought the hygrometer by itself but this was actually cheaper than if I were to buy it and make it myself. A little gimmicky but pretty cool
http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Cure-...8049&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=digital+cure+cap
http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Cure-...8049&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=digital+cure+cap
FlyinJStable
- 2,518
- 263
@burn4me
Its Great tyo see ya hangin out and chillin at the threads Bro welcome back home to the greatest grow on dirt.
@way2green always looking great brother, Mr Green WAY2 go bro . . . . .
Got home to 91 in the Stable and thats not STABLE>>>>>
SO I took some bucks down to the local pawn shop and picked up a Nice portable A?C unit Still with a warren tee and the box
Got it home,
Humped it up a Ladder
and Have it ducked through the 1K cool tube
That way I still keep my 1K warm and the room Cool
Room Temp is a Happy 77 and holding right nicely
Peace Farmers
FlyJ
Its Great tyo see ya hangin out and chillin at the threads Bro welcome back home to the greatest grow on dirt.
@way2green always looking great brother, Mr Green WAY2 go bro . . . . .
Got home to 91 in the Stable and thats not STABLE>>>>>
SO I took some bucks down to the local pawn shop and picked up a Nice portable A?C unit Still with a warren tee and the box
Got it home,
Humped it up a Ladder
and Have it ducked through the 1K cool tube
That way I still keep my 1K warm and the room Cool
Room Temp is a Happy 77 and holding right nicely
Peace Farmers
FlyJ
MushinNoShin
- 739
- 143
NightFire OG
way2green
- 1,142
- 263
Very happy for u @FlyinJStable .......u know when I return to work those things will cost u zero......u know that ur kindness means free appliances as long as I run my business!
MushinNoShin
- 739
- 143
Private Reserve. Not very impressive looking, but the smell and flavor is fkn incredible and it's pretty damn strong.
way2green
- 1,142
- 263
@Tnelz and @FlyinJStable
U dudes are gonna freak when u see the warehouse of window ac's and wall units that I couldnt resale because the 30 day warranty expired... Lol.....so crazy
U dudes are gonna freak when u see the warehouse of window ac's and wall units that I couldnt resale because the 30 day warranty expired... Lol.....so crazy
way2green
- 1,142
- 263
U r right bro.....looks horrible!!!!!! Send it to me for proper disposal....haha
SeaF0ur
- 1,190
- 263
Nice lookin nugs fellas...
on the hygrometers... I like the caliber 4's to get close...
but then I seal em up with the hygrometers and the bovida 62% humidipaks.
no questions... same every time... perfect.
on the hygrometers... I like the caliber 4's to get close...
but then I seal em up with the hygrometers and the bovida 62% humidipaks.
no questions... same every time... perfect.
Lazerus00
- 2,030
- 263
Damn I was gonna scoop one of these up but thy are already sold out!
Lazerus00
- 2,030
- 263
Im totally interested in a window a/c unit....just saying
MushinNoShin
- 739
- 143
It posted the reverse image which looks way danker for some reason, lol.
MushinNoShin
- 739
- 143
What RH do you throw your Humidipaks in at? I stopped using them for awhile and only started using them again when RH dropped below ~62%. Never quite understood when to put them in.
Lazerus00
- 2,030
- 263
From my experience, using the Boveda packs with cigars, it doesn't matter what the RH is when you put them in. If you are using a 62% pack which I hear are best, you just toss it in your mason jar and seal it up. The packet will either raise or drop the RH accordingly.
SeaF0ur
- 1,190
- 263
bovida makes multiple packs... these are the 62% "herb" ones... I use my hygrometers starting in the paper bags after trim... they travel with the bud to the jars... aside from feeling the moisture, they mainly keep you from going too dry before jarring, or jarring too wet...
however they're never perfectly accurate.
the humidipaks work both ways... taking and giving moisture to keep 62% like he said...
when dried out... I stick em in a jar with water at the bottom... raised from the water but in 100% humidity... they recharge back up... I store em with the hygrometers all sealed up...
keeps the hygrometers better longer... the constant 62% as opposed to drying out occasionally...
however they're never perfectly accurate.
the humidipaks work both ways... taking and giving moisture to keep 62% like he said...
when dried out... I stick em in a jar with water at the bottom... raised from the water but in 100% humidity... they recharge back up... I store em with the hygrometers all sealed up...
keeps the hygrometers better longer... the constant 62% as opposed to drying out occasionally...
MushinNoShin
- 739
- 143
I have a bunch of digital RH meters I got off of eBay for a good deal. Ah! See, I wasn't aware they brought the RH down, only thought they brought it up. Will start using them a lot more often.
Toaster79
- 8,264
- 313
@CBDEMON
XM-L2 U2 4C is a 4300-4500K emmiter so when using for veg only you won't have to add any other wavelengths. I would shoot for even higher CCT like 5000-5700K 3C, 3B, 2A and 2D bins.
As you see there isn't much difference between 5000K and 5700K. You have mainly blue spectrum with addition with some red which would be fine for veg only without supplementing any other vawelengths. Blue peaks at 455nm and you have nearly flat curve from 550nm to 610nm where it starts dropping. In case you want to bump reds I'd get me some 2700-3000K XM-L2s like every fourth emmiter. This makes wiring much much easier because the voltage drop and current don't change this way.
Heatsinking: depends on number of emmiters and drive current. Since XM-L2 is a 10W LED you can drive it anywhere between 0-15W (0 is in theory only) . If you're looking for a let's say 150W unit you could go with 15 LEDs driven at 3A but that would mean they would produce much more heat than those driven at 1.5A. So double the count and split the current in half. This way you'll get much higher efficiency (130lm/W instead of 100lm/W) and way less heat. This does double the costs but the life cycle of your LEDs will be extended to the point that they will actually run with 70% of initial output after 50k hours.
You could go with passive cooling and source heatsinks with larger spacing between the ribs like say extrusion in length of 3ft, 3" wide and 2" high. Take 2 of those and spread LEDs equally maybe even four to get even better coverage ( don't know the footprint of your veg area). Again that bumps up initial costs rapidly BUT keep in mind you won't have to touch that unit for the nex 5-7years at least if done right. On the other hand you could take thinner lighter extrusions say 1" high and add vents. This will give you lighter unit but adding the complexity of the build, needing another power supply for the vents (unless running of mains).
When it comes to cooling make sure you use quality products in form of thermal paste/glue, flatten out contact surface as much as possible ( LED and heatsink) and make no mistakes.
Drivers:
Meanwell! The model depends on your choice of emitters, count and power.
You could also go for COBs which would bring down the complexity but the costs wouldn't change much except for the heatsinks. You could use CPU heatsinks in this case or make a unit similar to the one you're referring all depending on the power used.
Hope this helps a bit. If you have any question just shoot them at me. It would be much easier to talk about certain build if I knew some numbers like footprint and power.
Keep it green!
XM-L2 U2 4C is a 4300-4500K emmiter so when using for veg only you won't have to add any other wavelengths. I would shoot for even higher CCT like 5000-5700K 3C, 3B, 2A and 2D bins.
As you see there isn't much difference between 5000K and 5700K. You have mainly blue spectrum with addition with some red which would be fine for veg only without supplementing any other vawelengths. Blue peaks at 455nm and you have nearly flat curve from 550nm to 610nm where it starts dropping. In case you want to bump reds I'd get me some 2700-3000K XM-L2s like every fourth emmiter. This makes wiring much much easier because the voltage drop and current don't change this way.
Heatsinking: depends on number of emmiters and drive current. Since XM-L2 is a 10W LED you can drive it anywhere between 0-15W (0 is in theory only) . If you're looking for a let's say 150W unit you could go with 15 LEDs driven at 3A but that would mean they would produce much more heat than those driven at 1.5A. So double the count and split the current in half. This way you'll get much higher efficiency (130lm/W instead of 100lm/W) and way less heat. This does double the costs but the life cycle of your LEDs will be extended to the point that they will actually run with 70% of initial output after 50k hours.
You could go with passive cooling and source heatsinks with larger spacing between the ribs like say extrusion in length of 3ft, 3" wide and 2" high. Take 2 of those and spread LEDs equally maybe even four to get even better coverage ( don't know the footprint of your veg area). Again that bumps up initial costs rapidly BUT keep in mind you won't have to touch that unit for the nex 5-7years at least if done right. On the other hand you could take thinner lighter extrusions say 1" high and add vents. This will give you lighter unit but adding the complexity of the build, needing another power supply for the vents (unless running of mains).
When it comes to cooling make sure you use quality products in form of thermal paste/glue, flatten out contact surface as much as possible ( LED and heatsink) and make no mistakes.
Drivers:
Meanwell! The model depends on your choice of emitters, count and power.
You could also go for COBs which would bring down the complexity but the costs wouldn't change much except for the heatsinks. You could use CPU heatsinks in this case or make a unit similar to the one you're referring all depending on the power used.
Hope this helps a bit. If you have any question just shoot them at me. It would be much easier to talk about certain build if I knew some numbers like footprint and power.
Keep it green!
Last edited:
Toaster79
- 8,264
- 313
Day22
We have frost :D
++++++Vibes
We have frost :D
++++++Vibes
Toaster79
- 8,264
- 313
Spent the afternoon at the green lake :)
Pos vibes guys and gals :D
Pos vibes guys and gals :D
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