Powdery Mildew, Fuck Me

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slimjimham

slimjimham

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Never seen it in my 5+ years of growing. Well I just went in my flower room and fuck me, looks like I caught it early but it was on a fair amount of leaves in plants coming down in about 10 days, and a few leaves on the other nets further out.

I noticed it right before work and cut off any effected leaves I saw, then had my girl spray everything down in the flower room with 18ml 29%h2o2to 1.5L of water

I just removed the exhaust fan in the veg room and replaced with ac (but in veg I think the rh gets to 72% when the ac is idle at parts of night) I increased the air flow in the room but should this be a concern or are plants in veg more resistant?

I could be wrong because I didn't go back in the veg room after I was working in the infected flower room but I think the veg was clear of it... and when I was starting up long ago I think I had some shifty high humidity veg conditions with no problems... like back in the day you got a slap in the face with humid air when you walked in the veg room and never an issue.

My flower room that was effected I noticed the rh was at 60 when it's usually 50-55, so I dropped another dehumidifier in there to keep it at 50, and like I said had my Gf spray with h202..

A buddy is going to let me borrow his atomizer so I can make sure I get everything with h2o2 in flower tomorrow, he's gonna hit me with some eagle 20 so I can spray my shit in veg too (how do you guys feel about this, I'm not locked in yet but if it works and is fine in veg I'm all in)...

... but like I said I've had much worse conditions in veg in the past with no issues, should I get another dehumidifier for veg tomorrow or is higher humidity (up to 75 at night) not a big deal....

Is been crazy humid lately where I live and looks like humidity is going to be 70-100 for the next week straight here....

I have no prob buying another dehumidifier for veg but don't want to waste the electricity/take up the space and have to deal with emptying it daily since there's nowhere in that room to pump it... seems like the ac lowered it a lot during the day, but like I said at night when it's not running is obv going to go up.

Kinda stressed, but hopefully I knock it out easy by adding the extra dehumidifier in flower+spraying with h2o2

What's your guys advise, trying to be positive... just one more thing I get to learn about and be experienced in. ...... riiiiight, fuck ha

But my rooms perpetual so it's not like I can just pull everything and clean it at harvest... there's always plants flowing in there at different stages.

And I know 60 is a touch high in flower, but it seemed comfortable in there... maybe because the ambient air was so humid though, I feel like I've gotten to 60 before in flower with no issues but maybe since the minisplit works less at night the humidity spiked and was to much for the dehumidifier to keep up with....

Per usual I'm rambling but it's because I'm stressing, so ....

-veg high humidity a ticking time bomb? (Also just a wall that seperatess that room from infected flower room)
-do I need a dehumidifier in veg now that there's no exhaust and rh gets in the 70's at night
-should I spray eagle 20 in veg?
-do you thing the combo of atomizer h2o2 spray/additional dehumidifier I'm flower will take care of the current problem? Or do I need to do more...
-do you think this all just came in because of the recent spike in ambient rh outside? The windows at work were foggy and covered in condensation, that's how bad it is now.

Also I'm going on a 10 day vaca in 2 weeks and leaving my very inexperienced buddy to watch my grow, so I'm stressed if the problem rears it's head while he's watching it, it could get out of control
 
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Seamaiden

Seamaiden

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If you're going to start using E20, you should educate yourself about it first. Be sure to use the version approved for use on consumables, NOT the ornamental version. Know that is is known to cause resistance, so if you're going to go that route, you need at least two other single site mode of action fungicides to keep in rotation here.

Me? JMS Stylets oil, high pH water, isopropyl alcohol (because it leaves no residue, whereas that hydrogen peroxide, once it breaks down, leaves you with water on your leaves), sulfur burning, and in veg milk is another great option. But honestly, I rarely see it, only when my plants are SUPER stressed and sick. I have it on a mint plant, no idea why, it's thriving otherwise, growing like gangbusters. But all the lower leaves are covered with fruiting bodies. For the vegging plants I personally think vaporizing sulfur is the best option, as it will also nail whatever is airborne and on any surfaces. I regularly vaporize my basement.

If I were you, for the flowering room I'd be using isopropyl, maybe daily. If you've never seen it before, know that when you kill the fruiting bodies the leaves they're growing on are going to die off and really look like shit. Just pull them off.

I've stopped recommending neem because I don't know whether or not folks are planning on using the flowers or trim for concentrates and my concentrate guy is HAMMERING into me NO NEEM. He says it's extremely difficult to separate from the concentrate. I don't know, it's beyond my pay grade, but I pass it along. I have not found that JMS leaves a residue, but it's been a long, long time since I've used it late in flower. It has a propensity to burn the living shit out of your plants if not kept VERY well mixed in the tank during application.
 
slimjimham

slimjimham

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Yeah my veg room is clear of it ad of right now. Is azamax good for neem oil? That's what I have on hand, if that's all good I'll apply another application today in veg

So am I under the impression that h202 isn't recommended or effective? ... it seems like the best option for my plants late in flower if it works because it's essentially water.... after the breakdown anyways.

Don't know that sulfer burned is an option for me, what do they cost?

Did you find baking soda knocked it out out in first application or did you have to hit it every 3 days or so?

Thanks again guys. And food doo, I'm not claiming to know everything but 80% late flower should eventually cause issues, bud rot if nothing else...

Like I said I'm getting the atomizer today and wad thinking h2o2 because it kills/sterilizers everything I think and is just water so won't effect the taste/trim for concentrates
 
ChalkyWhite

ChalkyWhite

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No clue on that brand .... dyno gro is brand I use but I don't spray in flower past stretch....green cure or baking soda isn't curing the pm it's just masking it ....it Will get u to harvest though...neem in veg as a prevention will save you headaches.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

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Yeah, I'm not sure that Azamax would be a good substitute, but that's because I'm not sure that it can be used to treat PM. Is it labeled for that use? I know JMS is.

To be fair, anything you're using right now would just be treating fruiting bodies, which I believe is really all we're concerned with, no? I mean, if the PM never actually expresses by pushing up the fruiting bodies, then we're unaware of its presence and thus don't really care. That's how it seems to me anyway.
So am I under the impression that h202 isn't recommended or effective? ... it seems like the best option for my plants late in flower if it works because it's essentially water.... after the breakdown anyways.
It's effective at killing the fruiting bodies, for sure. But, once it's done reacting, you've got water leftover on the leaves. Isopropyl alcohol will speed evaporation.
Don't know that sulfer burned is an option for me, what do they cost?
They're not terribly expensive, but neither are they super cheap. I honestly can't remember what I paid for mine, but it wasn't the hit the atomizer was.
Did you find baking soda knocked it out out in first application or did you have to hit it every 3 days or so?
The *only* time I've ever had a persistent problem with PM (I didn't even mean to alliterate there!) was when I was also fighting root aphids. I used the Greencure, I don't recall how often, I think as often as I saw fruiting bodies. But I've ended up putting it back on a shelf because since I used it late in flower, I discovered I can taste it, and to me it tastes soapy. Most other people don't have that complaint. I think otherwise it's pretty safe to use, so you can kinda go to town with it if need be.
 
slimjimham

slimjimham

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So far I added 2 new fans, one in flower and one on veg, keeping my extra dehu in flower room, sprayed pm wash on everything (prob just ph'ed up water ha, called them and the guy said he likes mighty wash better for pm, just pm wash when is real close to harvest stop there's no taste)

Also sprayed green cure on everything in veg/flower except the plants coming down in 7 days now.... like I said sprayed them with just pm wash.

Think I'm going to spray mighty wash on everything but the 7 day out plants in a few days...

I'd like to think with the extra fan (had fans on everything but the one meet closest to flower (assuming that's how I got it.... the day before I was thinking how I needed a fan for those plans), and extra dehu that will make it so it disappears. What do you think?

Also going to use green cure in another week, and cleaned what I could get to with physian 20...

Am I on the right track to defeat it or is this going to haunt me?

Thought about the sulfer burner, but didn't want it to funk up my house
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

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What about air filtration? Maybe that should be a consideration for future runs.

Physan 20 will help kill spores I believe, but I also believe it has to be rinsed off of surfaces. It's been a while since I've used it so I'm going from memory here. I personally would give the girls a pre-harvest rinse to remove any residue from the Greencure, I think I mentioned I'm able to taste it, though most others I've spoken with say they cannot.

I can't speak to the products like the washes, I've never used them and don't really know anything about them.
 
Genesis

Genesis

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I'm no expert but this stuff is pretty solid if used proactively 1-2x weekly. It is an organic biofungicide and you can use it the week of harvest and it is cool :) Smells like cat piss pretty hardcore doe. But ill take that over PM. Here's what they say on their website:

What is the active ingredient of SERENADE Garden?

SERENADE Garden is made from a unique, patented strain (QST 713) of Bacillus subtilis. Bacillus subtilis strain QST 713 penetrates and destroys the disease pathogen, but does not harm beneficial insects or wildlife.


serenade-disease-control.jpg
 
slimjimham

slimjimham

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Cool cool, I'm kinda leaking towards using a light mix of purpos on clones in early veg(much lower % of active ingredient in eagle 20) of the problem doesn't get under control in the next month. In the mean time spraying green cure on all plants but closest to harvest, plants that are about to be harvested I'm spraying 55ml 29%h2o2 per gallon of water.

I'm applying the green cure weekly... problem still doesn't seem to be in the veg room, just flower room. .


Im about to go on vaca and going to have my buddy spray mighty wash on everything a week after I'm gone because it can be applied with the lights on/make it easy for him since he won't be around as the lights are going off to spray other stuff
 
slimjimham

slimjimham

399
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Also with physan 20, I just sprayed the shit out of everything I could. Walls I could get to, fans, floors, buckets, dehu, dehu filter... obv I didn't get everything but I sprayed it all over. Wiped some spots, others like the floor I just sprayed the shit out of it till it was all covered. Is this good practice or will spraying without wiping be ineffective (even if fully covered)? ... I think it should do the trick. Leaving the country for 10 days and having my inexperienced buddy watch things. Then when I get home I can keep hitting the floor/buckets and fans every other day.... hopefully that, lower rh with extra dehumidifier (40-50) and a bit more air circulation should wipe this powfery mildew shit out... thinking about picking up a box fan for the floor/lower plant when I get back from vaca too... really hate the idea of using eagle 20 even on mother plants. So trying top avoid that at all costs, we'll see.

Having my buddy spray mighty wash on everything one day he's watching shit since it can be sprayed with lights on and he can't really fuck it up. Hope that's enough preventitive with him plucking infected leaves. I'm gonna reapply green cure the day before I leave too...
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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I believe that the label wants you to wipe it off, it may be harmful to us (skin contact). If it's a place that you're not normally touching with bare skin, I think you'll be ok not wiping it off. But using a quaternary compound is good thinking, IMO.
 
Wisher619

Wisher619

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?????? What kind of room are you running...is it sealed or like a tent...that makes a huge difference.....your humidity could be 100% and it didn't matter....the spores are what matters....if we are talking outdoors then humidity matters but indoors if you have a good filter for you intake whether passive or active....for my indoor I have a passive and I built a box with a filtrete heating filter that is effective against pollen/mold spores etc.....once you harvest you are gonna have to stop your grow and treat the room as to kill the spores an then start over...maybe the plants that need to go in next....just keep pinching tops in veg until you get your deal cleaned up....all those sprays are just a band-aid...the room needs to be sterilized of spores....
 
gardnguyahoy

gardnguyahoy

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Im getting PM on my watermelon right outside my growroom [bout 20 ft away] do you think this could effect my grow?
 
F

FooDoo

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I have PM on my rose bush 15 feet from my grow and run 70+ humidity . in week 7 with no PM.

Ill snag a pic
 
F

FooDoo

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PM 15 feet from grow room

IMG 20150903 133800417


Bush touching the PM and not even affected

IMG 20150903 133805853


Current humidity in room, lights off, week 7

IMG 20150903 134156421


And a very crappy pic of my 4kw tent with 16 girls in it. I didn't have time to put up my cages or remake a scrog so it looks like.turmoil in there but you get the point that nothing has PM on it

IMG 20150903 134215483


There's even old dead rotting leaves on the buckets that I forgot to throw out and still no.bud mold or PM.

You guys have to remember, all these growers are old timers who have smoked wayyyyy too much over their lifetimes and LOVE to claim pseudo science as facts with no evidence what so ever . some of these guys prob still beleive that if you hang a plant upside down the thc drips to the colas.

High RH does not cause PM. High RH does not cause bud rot. If you say otherwise prove it with a scientific study backed by a well respected university
 
Wisher619

Wisher619

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he is right....a healthy plant with PM resistance goes along ways....I have a sativa literally touching my zucchini plants that is just covered with PM....nothing on my lady....but with that being said....for indoor....I would always run a filter for your intake...passive or not....just because a lot of indoor strains are very susceptible to pm....control the environment ....remember genetics play a role....some have genes that come from super humid environments....others come from super dry where most pm does not live....as well...humidity didn't cause pm....pm spores carried by wind causes pm and Bud mold is caused by gray mold which can be triggered in a very humid enviroment
 
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