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Using Myco in Coco??

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Using Myco in Coco??

Rootbound 39 Replies 15,461 Views
Page 2 of 2 · Replies 21–40 of 40
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boxmunch9

Guest
#22
then your all gravey, I foolishly wasted money on myco before i learned about chloramine, only to realize the myco were basically killed on contact with my water
 
#23
There is a fish product that you can buy that destroy's chlorine and chloramines in your water and it works really well. Its only like 8 bucks a bottle and you can see the difference by using an Pool chem tester. Check the chloramines in your water before the application of the Remover an after and watch the dramatic change in under 2 mins.
 
#24
GDS you must be talking about "Prime" produced by SeaChem

I use it on all my aquariums and it works great, its basically a chemical formula which reduces the chlorine molecule by a redox reaction, it works and is usually like 8 bucks a bottle, which will last for a while, ive had the same bottle for my 25gallon tank for over 6 months, all you need is like a teaspoon full for 10 gallons

R/O water is the bomb but ive never had a problem with chlorine using a brita tap filter, and thats without the prime

Just the other day I turned off the bubblers and drained the water in my germination tub, and came back a day later and found mycorrhizae all in my net cups

This was even using the Plant Success Granuels which look like fish flakes to me...
The mycorrhizae where looked like mold balls everywhere

Best Bet go with a CoCo inoculant, altho other coco growers probably knows what works best, im hydro and organic, never used Coco

Oh yea PigFarmer, that Plant Success stuff is cheap but it works :)
 
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boxmunch9

Guest
#25
noo shit, so it basically does the same thing as r/o without using a filter? can prolly get it at a fish store. I havent opened my tall boy i just bought which is fine i would rather go buy a 4x4 tent instead
 
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baggins

Guest
#26
XM ceramic powder will structure your water and activated efficient microorganisms will flourish. breeding your own beneficials are alot cheaper than anything you can buy.
 
B

boxmunch9

Guest
#27
"big toke's" biobuckets are all about producing beneficial and never changing your res. its based on aquaponics, where fish are used in the res, their shit feeds the beneificals and a bunch of other circle of life function happen after that.
 
#28
boxmunch9 said:
hey guys, just some info i learned from the urban gardener, before you invest in myco, first you Must use R/o water. choloramine is what most county's are using to clean their water now, which can not be blown off with airstones and will kill any myco in your medium. so if your seeing great results and your using tap water, its not the mycobes, its you, give yourself the credit not the dead myco's
Click to expand...
You know if you add a vitamin C tablet to your tap and bubble for a few hours no more chloramine.
 
#31
City water! some have 2 types of chlorine one is gas and can be displaced with an air pump make sure your pump has a filter. The second type must be filtered out all the bubbles and sitting in bucket will not remove it and is the worst type for your girls. I am not pumping up being from Texas but my water plant is not far away and I no 2 of the guys who work there and went to ask questions. They told me that unlike flint Michigan they must post the latest test report in view of the public. It tells everything that's in there and how much: I no longer drink it and use ro water in kitchen and my coffee. The well water here is much worse like 245ppm but is minerals mostly you will recognize the names the city water you need to be a chemist to sort it out.
 
#32
boxmunch9 said:
then your all gravey, I foolishly wasted money on myco before i learned about chloramine, only to realize the myco were basically killed on contact with my water
Click to expand...
Use vitamin c and you break the chlorine and amine apart.
Aerate it and you end the chlorine then.
R/O is wonderful for aquariums but I prefer vitamin c and aeration, keeping minerals in the tap water.

Tap water also better for cloning because chloramine is designed to stop pathogens.

Calcium is so important and RO takes it out.

Just my thoughts. Plus vitamin c is waaaaaaay cheaper than RO.

And believe me, I know RO. I built myself a 12 stage RO/DI for my aquariums
 
#33
My tap water is 1.3 ec(650 ppm) so i have no choice but to use ro.
 
#34
Rootbound said:
Anyone use Myco in coco? I have been looking at Great White Myco. Thanks for any replies, -RB-
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Yes i add it to my mix of coco,granular endo,also powder form during transplant in the root hole.also throughout the grow i will add it once a week to my nutes,great white is good.
 
#35
mulehunter said:
Yes i add it to my mix of coco,granular endo,also powder form during transplant in the root hole.also throughout the grow i will add it once a week to my nutes,great white is good.
Click to expand...

Nothing like a blast from the past, that was 7 yrs ago. I use caps bennies now.
 
#37
Before you go to the expense have it tested. It might not be a bad thing. If the right things are in it and a lot can be done with a carbon filter. RO water is a 3 to 5 to 1 ( 3gal to 5 gal) to make 1 gal of ro water. RO system cost coupla hundred dollars Test cost $40. If you do have it tested, test by a nutrient orientated lab. I used Jack's ended up using two carbon filters total cost 100 and the filters are 20 bucks each, ro membrane's are (good ones ) 50 to 60 and the carbon filter is 20 to 25 and the sediment filter 15 to 20. You have to replace once a year and if your water is real bad 650 is not good but I have seen worse. I use ro water for seedlings and cloneing or plants doing strange things. My Ro water comes out of the filter at 90 and went in at240-260. Well water if you have city water. City water I would ro unless you can look at there test results most city's post them. You can remove both types of chlorine.

Ro water do your research and if you buy one look into the replacement filter prices . Cheep replacements from amazon will start out wonderful and fade fast. The good ones last twice as long and test your ro water often the number will start up replace the carbon filter after a 15% rise and back flush every week for and hour min. and about 4 hrs for the double membrane models.

PPM and Ec don't tell you what is in it. I was shocked when after 5 years of RO water to find a carbon filter would bring mine into a condition that was good for the plants. Jacks will tell you what is there and if you email them the will recommend a nutrient plan for you but, because they have been around for a very long time is about 15 to 20 % of the cost of the chemistry and junk the high dollar sellers will sell you. Jacks doesn't sell water based nutrients just power.

If you can afford a lot of nutrient expense is good you might get a better grow. However you can get in my case as good results by adding just a few things I use. Triacontanol, Kelp, molasses as a booster and that's it. There are pictures of what it produces here. I flush for 7 to 10 days and use a declining ratio for the 5 days before the flush by adding Ro or filtered water to the reservoir as I evaporate about 5 gal every 3 days. Then during the flush I go down to 10% and the last 3 days just PHed Ro water. Before Jacks I spent about 25 to 50 bucks a plant now I spend 10 to 14. If you grow 3 to 10 plants then spent the bucks I grow 50 to 100 at a time .

There are other opinions here and many will offer there ideas what I like about this is if you miss the point and add a replay that doesn't fit the thread they don't rant you and tell you your a nut.

If you have a problem be sure someone has had it before you and some where here there is a post to help
 
#39
These plants use Top Pond products ( lowes, homedpot pond section)
Top Pond Barley-
$9 for a bottle of concentrated enzymes that "other" companies are charging a arm and leg more for less concentration.
Makes 2,500 gallons

Top Pond Chorine & Chorimiane (sp) remover-
$9 abottle
While not R/o removes the chorine
But not the minerals
Which is fine with me. Makes 2,500 gallons
 
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