Temp Differential Vs. Ideal Temps

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Junk

Junk

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I've been able to get temps down to 75 in the room. However, during lights off, I'm also 75. I can raise the temp during lights on...

So considering I can't yet get lights off temps down to 65, would you raise your lights on temps to get a temp difference?

If so, how much of a difference?
 
Junk

Junk

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p.s. By the above, I mean I CAN get temps down to 75, but I've been running them at 81, just because I think they want some temp difference. The reason for the above is that I'm currently running lights from 10pm-10am. It's the only way to keep temps 80 or under...
 
F

FooDoo

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Night time temps should be as close to day time temps as possible. That's why mini splits come with a heat pump. To cool during the day and heat during the night if need be to get to the set temperature.

Do not aim or strive for a temperature difference
 
Junk

Junk

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I've got to do a better job with my bookmarking. Plus, I don't know how/why Safari organizes the saved ones in the manner that it does, but I can't find the link that talks about a 10 degree differential being optimal. Not a forum post, but an actual paper. With most plants I grow, save the cold weather veggies, I notice that growth is better when temps are closer than that. Hence me running only a 6 degree differential. So what you are saying makes sense to me, in that it matches my anecdotal evidence.

I did a quick search on keeping the same day/night temps & found this...so what do u think about paragraphs 2-6? I'll have to re-consult the TOS, but I think it's safe just to quote the content & leave the link...

Page won't let me copy/paste without effort, so if you can just check the link...

http://www.dailysmoker.com/cannabis-grow-guide/conditions/temperature
 
F

FooDoo

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That entire article seems like myth. 86-90 for co2 enriched environments is off because an ideal vpd would be in the 80-90% RH.

Day time and night time temps don't effect node stretch because I have 6 seeeds of ghost og x urkle and they are all different heights and node lengths.

Node length is genetics not so much environment. (Unless we're talking super weak light very far from the top of the plant)
 
Herb Forester

Herb Forester

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I've been varying DIF throughout each cycle and somewhat by how strains respond to it. For average hybrids, maybe 5 degrees in veg and preflower, zero when they go into flower until stretch is over, back to about 5 through swell, then 10+ near the end to ripen and slow them down.
 
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Pimples

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Night time temps should be as close to day time temps as possible. That's why mini splits come with a heat pump. To cool during the day and heat during the night if need be to get to the set temperature.

Do not aim or strive for a temperature difference
Yep. Especially if you have some first 3 weeks of flower stretch monsters like Dream or Glue or Og Kush. Having the same temp diff night and day helps limit stretch bigtime for me. Actually having nights even a few degrees warmer is even better. Better than using some paclo type bullshit chemical. Not me. Tying down and the same temps night and day first 2 or 3 weeks limits the stretch.Its actually an old greenhouse growers trick to get fruiting crops less leggy. If you have stretchy strains and/or limited ceiling rooms...try it. Combine with topping and tying down and get them ladies under control.
 
mandalaman

mandalaman

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I've got to do a better job with my bookmarking. Plus, I don't know how/why Safari organizes the saved ones in the manner that it does, but I can't find the link that talks about a 10 degree differential being optimal. Not a forum post, but an actual paper. With most plants I grow, save the cold weather veggies, I notice that growth is better when temps are closer than that. Hence me running only a 6 degree differential. So what you are saying makes sense to me, in that it matches my anecdotal evidence.

I did a quick search on keeping the same day/night temps & found this...so what do u think about paragraphs 2-6? I'll have to re-consult the TOS, but I think it's safe just to quote the content & leave the link...

Page won't let me copy/paste without effort, so if you can just check the link...

http://www.dailysmoker.com/cannabis-grow-guide/conditions/temperature

I believe that article suggests that the further away your temperature is between day and night the more stretch and less bulk you'll have. So it's implying that optimally the temperature is identical. That's how I took it, anyway.

Good luck :)
 
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Pimples

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I believe that article suggests that the further away your temperature is between day and night the more stretch and less bulk you'll have. So it's implying that optimally the temperature is identical. That's how I took it, anyway.

Good luck :)
temperature diff...or the diff. Iam suprised indoor growers dont know much about it actually...seeing how temperatures can be precisely and consistently controlled with a well built grow room. Greenhouse regular crop growers (especially flower and veggie/fruit growers) been employing the technique for awhile now. Its simple if you have the means of accurately controlling night and daytime temps. Keep your night temps the same as the day or even 1 to 5 degrees warmer for the first 1 to 3 weeks of a flowering photoperiod. It makes for much more compact internodal stretch. If you over vegged or like a longer veg for a higher per plant yield...all kinds of reasons. Especially indoors for most where space is limited as it is. Combine this with canopy training techniques to tame all but the lankiest of cultivars.
 
mandalaman

mandalaman

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temperature diff...or the diff. Iam suprised indoor growers dont know much about it actually...seeing how temperatures can be precisely and consistently controlled with a well built grow room. Greenhouse regular crop growers (especially flower and veggie/fruit growers) been employing the technique for awhile now. Its simple if you have the means of accurately controlling night and daytime temps. Keep your night temps the same as the day or even 1 to 5 degrees warmer for the first 1 to 3 weeks of a flowering photoperiod. It makes for much more compact internodal stretch. If you over vegged or like a longer veg for a higher per plant yield...all kinds of reasons. Especially indoors for most where space is limited as it is. Combine this with canopy training techniques to tame all but the lankiest of cultivars.

Awesome, makes sense. I'm always interested in learning and optimizing I'll read more about that. Where are natural environments where night is warmer than day? What is that telling the plant that biologically it stays short and squat?
 
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Pimples

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Awesome, makes sense. I'm always interested in learning and optimizing I'll read more about that. Where are natural environments where night is warmer than day? What is that telling the plant that biologically it stays short and squat?
Actually the science is still out on the whole thing. Evidence does suggest that the slightly warmer night temps than day temps may inhibit the hormones giberellic acid and certain auxins. These hormones are responsible for cell elongation...hence plant stretching within the first few weeks of flowering...when hormones amd phytocrome run rampant within the plant.
 
GT21

GT21

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temperature diff...or the diff. Iam suprised indoor growers dont know much about it actually...seeing how temperatures can be precisely and consistently controlled with a well built grow room. Greenhouse regular crop growers (especially flower and veggie/fruit growers) been employing the technique for awhile now. Its simple if you have the means of accurately controlling night and daytime temps. Keep your night temps the same as the day or even 1 to 5 degrees warmer for the first 1 to 3 weeks of a flowering photoperiod. It makes for much more compact internodal stretch. If you over vegged or like a longer veg for a higher per plant yield...all kinds of reasons. Especially indoors for most where space is limited as it is. Combine this with canopy training techniques to tame all but the lankiest of cultivars.
Not just temps factor into internode spacing. Nitrogen levels are a huge factor in cell elongation and when you boost you pk early it effects the spacing as well. The spectrum used in lighting also plays a factor. A mh or your low blue nanometers will help with the spacing over a high nano hps, due to your 2 photo systems. On top of physical manipulation ie training or pruning there are several factors in keeping a plant short and fat.
 
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Pimples

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Oh btw...there arent many natural environments where night temps are warmer than days...thats the beauty of indoor growing. We can do all kinds of stuff that mother nature cant replicate. Adding larger amounts of co2 gas to make plant growth explode is another.
 
mandalaman

mandalaman

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Oh btw...there arent many natural environments where night temps are warmer than days...thats the beauty of indoor growing. We can do all kinds of stuff that mother nature cant replicate. Adding larger amounts of co2 gas to make plant growth explode is another.
Absolutely. It seems like generally it's manipulating the environment to elicit a natural response of the plant to stimuli a la changing the light cycle to.make the plant think there are shorter days and triggers flowering. I didn't know if having temp warmer at night tricked the plant into thinking something was going on to elicit the response of bulking vs stretching.
 
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Pimples

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Absolutely. It seems like generally it's manipulating the environment to elicit a natural response of the plant to stimuli a la changing the light cycle to.make the plant think there are shorter days and triggers flowering. I didn't know if having temp warmer at night tricked the plant into thinking something was going on to elicit the response of bulking vs stretching.
Not necessarily bulking..that comes later..as a direct result of closer internodal spacing resulting from the temp diff "trick". There are hydro store bottled additives that can do the same thing but some would say these are unnecessary and even toxic. Playing with temps is much more easier on you and the plant. Stay away from alot of that junk on the shelves i say. A good base nute and some "mellow" additives is as far as i go anymore. Humic/fulvic acid...potassium silicate...seaweed kelp...mycorizzhae root innoculants...these are what i would stick with.
 
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