E
Esoptron
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Paying $37/Cree cxb 3590 with holder and reflector cup. I'd pay the premium for the binning alone.
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I believe the point BobbyBoy was trying to make was that getting the BEST in a fast changing market is not always the best choice.Paying $37/Cree cxb 3590 with holder and reflector cup. I'd pay the premium for the binning alone.
They jive sweet doggie :)How do COBs and Quantum Boards compare?
Six is there a break on the cree cobs if you buy say 25 or 50?I'm assuming Jerry is the source?What about drivers?i just had a guy at riu run some numbers for me comparing the citi,vero,and cree and 2 year old cree tech and new gen 7 vero still beats new citi in efficiency by alot.im just not seeing a savings when we go from 42% to 64% and lpw go from 140-150lpw to 200+ lpw it makes zero sense to me to save a few bucks on the build using lower grade chips.cree has come way down in price,im still seeing guys quote 48-50 bucks a chip and thats just wrong,they are 31 to 35 bucks each now so just a few bucks more than vero. im still waiting to see any grow using citi cobs that jumps off the page and makes me say wow,i want those cobs lmao.lots of cree and vero grows out there to back up the hype.
yes jerry is the spot for quantity prices on cree,he has decent driver prices as well but i think it drives the shipping way up because they are so heavy.but yeah jerry is a one stop shop now with drivers,cree,heatsinks,holders ectSix is there a break on the cree cobs if you buy say 25 or 50?I'm assuming Jerry is the source?What about drivers?
Hello again, I'm just popping back in to thank everyone for the advice given earlier in the thread. I built some cheap COB's (Citizen 1212's) using cheap Chinese drivers and server heatsinks to add to my existing setup. I bought cheap first to be sure that I didn't waste too much money but in the future I would be confident in building more expensive setups or even replacing just the Citizen cobs themselves.
Anyway they are up and have been running for around a month now, of the 5 drivers I bought one did blow, that could have been down to my dodgy soldering though. Here are the last three that I built, the first had been in the veg tent being tested awhile before I completed them:
View attachment 679120
Here they are in my veg tent:
View attachment 679121
Here are the other two added to my previous setup in my flowering tent:
View attachment 679123
The silver prebuilt COB lights cost £220 each shipped to the UK, the black CREE kits were from cutter.com and cost around £140 each shipped. My own build may look like dogshit but cost a maximum of £25 each, more like £22 but adding solder, tape etc I'll go with £25. Thanks to you all!
I think they look fine.Please clean that up. That looks awful. Show some pride. Ugh.
You're just going to leave the drivers hanging like that? Some are taped. Oh man. Nothing personal. No offense.
Please clean that up. That looks awful. Show some pride. Ugh.
You're just going to leave the drivers hanging like that? Some are taped. Oh man. Nothing personal. No offense.
I guess you could try some zip ties, and that would be better. They hold good, and they're non-conductive. Peace my brudda.
Hey guys a lot of you know me from RIU or ICMag but for the LED growers here that have not seen it, here is the recipe for building DIY LED very cheaply. Why build a DIY lamp? You can get up to 49% efficiency if you can find the top bins and run them soft (700mA). You can get 36% efficiency with the mid bin running hard (1400mA). The best commercial LEDs (Area 51, Apache, Onyx) are in the low 30s. Another advantage is the ability to have remote drivers to keep that heat out of your grow space and away from the LED heatsinks.
Everything has changed since COBs became available to us. It is much easier to build a lamp and it turns out that 3000K works just fine on its own, better than HPS even.
For the simplest build the best COBS to use are the Cree CXA3070 and Vero 29. The CXA 3000K has 14% blue and the Vero 3000K 8-10%. They are available on Digikey or if you need a bulk order you can save $ on Arrow.
As far as drivers go, 1.4A is a good compromise between cost and efficiency. They are available on eBay for $13, 90% efficient and power factor corrected. You can use Mean Well LPC-60-1400 but it is lower efficiency and not power factor corrected. If you want to run at 1050mA you can use Mean Well LPC-60-1050. The one I tested was 88% efficient.
For heatsinks, CPU coolers work great for small grows. The 92mm Arctic 11 Plus is a favorite because it can be found for $10 and uses a fluid dynamic bearing fan, lots of cooling power and not too loud. Amazon and Newegg sometimes offer them for $10. Currently outletPC has them for $10 with reasonable shipping cost.
If you are building a medium or large lamp, I recommend HeatsinkUSA 5.88" profile. A 12" length is good for (2) COBs and a 24" length is good for (4) COBs. You can cool it with a single 140mm fan to make a super efficient cooling combo. I recommend the Prolimatech 140mm from Amazon. It is quiet even at 13V and moves a lot of air.
View attachment 415611
The Vero is solder free but the Cree requires a COB holder and to go solder free. Both methods require drilling and tapping the heatsink. I don't mind the soldering so rather than drilling, I mount the COB with Prolimatech PK3 thermal paste and then use kapton to tape the COB in place so it cannot slide sideways. The paste makes a very strong vacuum when you press the COB onto the heatsink. It will not come off from gravity or heat. If you try to pry it off it will break. You have to twist it and then slide it sideways to get it off.
Small build:
View attachment 415595
Medium build:
View attachment 415593
Large build:
View attachment 415594
That's really good advice, and I think you're spot on regarding the shockingly poor Euro market.Hi fellas
Just ordered up a bunch of 3000K Vero 29 gen 7 from KB to fill out the rest of the flower room
Thought what the heck and grabbed enough to make a rail of 4000K too LOL we'll see how that works out as a early veg replacement for a T5, maybe we'll end up going bluer down the line
just waiting on some drivers being back in stock and they will be sending them my way
Hopefully maybe Cree will be out with something new by the start of next year too
COB royally whoops ass IMHO, with all factors considered, bar none the best lighting system I have ever had the pleasure to work with
@Zen
I also live in the non-EU Euro zone, Switzerland, traditionally a country that is hard to import into cheaply, and where seized seed orders get your house raided months later. What you have to remember is that these COB parts are not traditionally used as grow lighting, so whilst you realise what their intended purpose is, customs regard this as shop/studio/architectural fittings. If tax is an issue for you, I'm fairly sure if you ask Kingbrite nicely they will be able to help you avoid most if not all of the tax, as they have me. As far as direct Euro sources of the chips, they exist, but are ultra expensive at like 65+ Euros for a old gen Vero 29 D. Another way to tackle it is to use a mail/parcel receiving service in another country, drive across the border and collect it yourself, smuggling it back and paying no tax whatsoever on it in your country, only paying the much lighter tax in the friendlier neighbour country.
There are certainly means available if you are as committed as I am LOL
nice one all
LD
Curious as to where you're at now with your DIY lightsHey guys a lot of you know me from RIU or ICMag but for the LED growers here that have not seen it, here is the recipe for building DIY LED very cheaply. Why build a DIY lamp? You can get up to 49% efficiency if you can find the top bins and run them soft (700mA). You can get 36% efficiency with the mid bin running hard (1400mA). The best commercial LEDs (Area 51, Apache, Onyx) are in the low 30s. Another advantage is the ability to have remote drivers to keep that heat out of your grow space and away from the LED heatsinks.
Everything has changed since COBs became available to us. It is much easier to build a lamp and it turns out that 3000K works just fine on its own, better than HPS even.
For the simplest build the best COBS to use are the Cree CXA3070 and Vero 29. The CXA 3000K has 14% blue and the Vero 3000K 8-10%. They are available on Digikey or if you need a bulk order you can save $ on Arrow.
As far as drivers go, 1.4A is a good compromise between cost and efficiency. They are available on eBay for $13, 90% efficient and power factor corrected. You can use Mean Well LPC-60-1400 but it is lower efficiency and not power factor corrected. If you want to run at 1050mA you can use Mean Well LPC-60-1050. The one I tested was 88% efficient.
For heatsinks, CPU coolers work great for small grows. The 92mm Arctic 11 Plus is a favorite because it can be found for $10 and uses a fluid dynamic bearing fan, lots of cooling power and not too loud. Amazon and Newegg sometimes offer them for $10. Currently outletPC has them for $10 with reasonable shipping cost.
If you are building a medium or large lamp, I recommend HeatsinkUSA 5.88" profile. A 12" length is good for (2) COBs and a 24" length is good for (4) COBs. You can cool it with a single 140mm fan to make a super efficient cooling combo. I recommend the Prolimatech 140mm from Amazon. It is quiet even at 13V and moves a lot of air.
View attachment 415611
The Vero is solder free but the Cree requires a COB holder and to go solder free. Both methods require drilling and tapping the heatsink. I don't mind the soldering so rather than drilling, I mount the COB with Prolimatech PK3 thermal paste and then use kapton to tape the COB in place so it cannot slide sideways. The paste makes a very strong vacuum when you press the COB onto the heatsink. It will not come off from gravity or heat. If you try to pry it off it will break. You have to twist it and then slide it sideways to get it off.
Small build:
View attachment 415595
Medium build:
View attachment 415593
Large build:
View attachment 415594