Cmh 315, Rdwc And Some Bloomers

[RHINObeast]

Just dropped some cash on this new upgrade! Did my studying for months and went with the Phillips 3100k and phantom ballast and hood. I added some mars hydro 300 watt leds for some cross coverage. It’s been about a month with my rdwc system, and I gotta say even before the CMH upgrade I was seeing double my results from the last grow. Now it’s time to really get it goin! Tomorrow I’ll be posting up one of my favorites; Jack Frost. Pic of the greenery is some Strawberry Banana!

 

[RHINObeast]

Ahhh one of those purple punch nights....she’s definitely some pretty ass smoke

 

[RHINObeast]

From you fellow CMHers, I'm trying to find that sweet spot as far as ppms. I was keeping mine steady around 350 to 400 with four 300 watt led (It's really only 600 watts power draw). I was thinking I need to be in between 500 and 600. I'm using the following line up;

GH 3 part series; per gallon - 7.5ml bloom, 5ml micro
calimagic - 5ml
canna pk 13/14 - 5ml
liquid koolbloom - 5ml

This comes out to roughly 300 to 350 ppms. I just multiply my current formula by 8 to get what I need for 8 plants.

 

[RHINObeast]

Here’s the Jack Frost, she’s far off but already pretty full, fyi, she’s doesn’t have any N issues, she just naturally claws up her fingers, she’s got a peppery spice smell, and she gets thick! I also threw up a shot of the Tangie from seed, I need to cut some lower nodes but her leaves are thick. Her and a Blueberry that I have are going through the first run under the CMH from start in bloom to finish. Happy growin!

 

[DemonTrich]

I feed heavy. By rhe technaflora sheet, my flower feeds are 1480ppm. I do a feed/water/feed cycle. And kill it every run. It IS genetic and grower experience. But I pull numbers like 1k grower do. Every run.

 

[RHINObeast]

I feed heavy. By rhe technaflora sheet, my flower feeds are 1480ppm. I do a feed/water/feed cycle. And kill it every run. It IS genetic and grower experience. But I pull numbers like 1k grower do. Every run.

That’s impressive. I’ve been watching your two Phillips bulbs comparison log and it’s definitely thrilling to watch you hit numbers like you do. I’m not going for crazy ass numbers but I’m definitely looking for a hefty increase.

 

[DemonTrich]

Why not set high goals. I went back to the 930 flower bulbs, and cranked the co2 to 1400. Have to make up for 3 months of shut down.

 

[snoplow20]

I feed heavy. By rhe technaflora sheet, my flower feeds are 1480ppm. I do a feed/water/feed cycle. And kill it every run. It IS genetic and grower experience. But I pull numbers like 1k grower do. Every run.

Are you using technaflora recipe for success. That was one of the better synthetic lines i ever used. I had great yields with it.

 

[DemonTrich]

Yes, for aboutn6 yrs now. I swapped sugar daddy for botanicare sweet raw. It' 20.00 less a gallon, and you use half dose to get same potency.

 

[RHINObeast]

Here’s what I got going on this morning in the veg room. These are all in dwc, just an air stone per bucket. I like having two set ups it just makes things a lot more manageable. I’m not much of a scrog guy, I prefer kind of a hydrid style, bonsai like yet the additional in its own way. I took out my t5’s, threw in a couple leds, last time I vegged with them they turned out nice and strong. Gonna go veg myself for the day, emmmmdogggg kinda day

 

[RHINObeast]

Definitely surprised....but I think I know why. My ppms are still balanced between 350 and 400, but I think a lot has to do with some of the plants in the system are further along than others so they’re not uptaking nutes they don’t need. It’s only been 4 or 5 Days, however I have added about 5 gallons of water to the resevoir during this time period. Nothing is excessive or deficient, the leaves actually look a lot more lime and healthier

 

[RHINObeast]

Larry at 42 Days, she’s starting up her fade now. And the budshot is a glueberry Og 56 Days in. She’s prolly got a few more days in her. This is my last run with her for a bit. I have 4 other beans for later purposes, I’ll most likely start her back in the winter. I also got some new beans in the paper towel; Nirvanas Swiss Cheese and a bag seed of Girl Scout cookie. I have no idea what the cookie pheno is, or if she’ll even pop, but man we’re the flowers frosty, stanky and purple. Have a good weekend

 

[RHINObeast]

Haven’t posted in a bit but here’s the tangie at 5 weeks under the CMH and leds. She’s looking stacked, I expect to take her 11 weeks but she’s worth the wait. Reserva has some strong genetics in this one. Smells living up
To its name. For now, just burning some K19

 

[DGP]

RHINObeast,

It looks like your using a DIY UC system. I built one myself and am testing a second. Can you tell us more about how it is built? Sounds like it is working well, are you chilling the water?

Thanks,

Dee

 

[RHINObeast]

RHINObeast,

It looks like your using a DIY UC system. I built one myself and am testing a second. Can you tell us more about how it is built? Sounds like it is working well, are you chilling the water?

Thanks,

Dee

Hey brotha, I’m gonna be honest here it wasn’t for me, I switched back to dwc, maybe I should switch the thread or rename it. I had issues getting algae but I believe it was due to lack of using hydroguard or a water chiller. I had a ton of success with dwc and like they say if you got a good thing going don’t change it

 

[RHINObeast]

37 Days in, tangie

 

[DGP]

Hey brotha, I’m gonna be honest here it wasn’t for me, I switched back to dwc, maybe I should switch the thread or rename it. I had issues getting algae but I believe it was due to lack of using hydroguard or a water chiller. I had a ton of success with dwc and like they say if you got a good thing going don’t change it

I have had some algae as well but for me it is just because I had not blacked out my buckets yet and some light was getting in. However, I do water changes about every 10 days and that seems to keep it down to a minimum. I also use a chiller, did straight DWC for almost 2 years but always struggled with water temps and had to ultimately keep my room cooled to 69F or slightly lower to keep the water clean and free of anaerobic bacteria. Growing and flowering at 69F is not ideal so that for me was the ongoing comprimise of DWC. Also had to use a fair amount of H2O2. How do you control the water temperature and quality when you do straight DWC?

So far I am about 4 weeks into using a UC system and my roots systems are so much more developed than ever before and the main trunks are clearly bigger (1 week after flip) than I have ever seen in previous grows with the same strain.

Thanks,

Dee

 

[RHINObeast]

I have had some algae as well but for me it is just because I had not blacked out my buckets yet and some light was getting in. However, I do water changes about every 10 days and that seems to keep it down to a minimum. I also use a chiller, did straight DWC for almost 2 years but always struggled with water temps and had to ultimately keep my room cooled to 69F or slightly lower to keep the water clean and free of anaerobic bacteria. Growing and flowering at 69F is not ideal so that for me was the ongoing comprimise of DWC. Also had to use a fair amount of H2O2. How do you control the water temperature and quality when you do straight DWC?

So far I am about 4 weeks into using a UC system and my roots systems are so much more developed than ever before and the main trunks are clearly bigger (1 week after flip) than I have ever seen in previous grows with the same strain.

Thanks,

Dee

Well even in dwc I don’t use hydroguard, but I do use silica blast by botinicare and it helps defend off climate issues and makes for stronger plants. I use about 1ml per gallon. I don’t do anything at all to control the temps and never have had issues in just dwc. I do change the nutes over in the veg cycle once after 30 Days, and the next swap isn’t until I flush. When I transition I leave the plant in the same nutes it had in veg for a week to adjust, then from day 7 to day 21 I work my way up the ppm charts. For me it’s better because I can control each individual bucket, and I constantly top them off with plain PhD water.

 

[RHINObeast]

Well even in dwc I don’t use hydroguard, but I do use silica blast by botinicare and it helps defend off climate issues and makes for stronger plants. I use about 1ml per gallon. I don’t do anything at all to control the temps and never have had issues in just dwc. I do change the nutes over in the veg cycle once after 30 Days, and the next swap isn’t until I flush. When I transition I leave the plant in the same nutes it had in veg for a week to adjust, then from day 7 to day 21 I work my way up the ppm charts. For me it’s better because I can control each individual bucket, and I constantly top them off with plain PhD water.

Here’s some roots

 

[DGP]

RHINObeast,

I am amazed that you can do that in DWC. First off, we have very clean water here (50ppm) and lets say I start off with clean buckets etc (as sterile as possible) and fresh nutes at 1/2 strength, you know a good clean start. Then I go with room temps of 75-78 then before long, especially with out frequent water changes, I get lots of indications of bacterial growth, a little slime forming, water doesn't smell fresh, roots start to turn a little less than white and it just goes downhill from there.

The less I change the water and manage the temps the lower my production and quality suffers. I see so many people using all kinds of reservoir treatments like all the preparations that are nothing more than "pool shock" and then there are the treatments like Hydroguard which I think has some beneficials in it but everyone has their favorite way to jack up the reservoir that seems to work for them. I never had success with a single reservoir treatment except water changes, lowering temps and some H202. That is until I started chilling the water. Now my UC system is just rockin with root ball sizes and other indicators I have never seen before.

Anyway, the reason I was asking all the questions is I see DWC issues with water management (mostly temperature related) on these forums all the time. I am no master grower but I know root rot when I see it and I see a lot of it here and for the sake of the folks who haven't gone to a chiller I am interested in how it works:). Went 2 years without a chiller but it was kind of a bitch.

Also, I have to manage my veg tent that will get too warm for water temps here pretty quick as Spring comes on. My veg tent is in the garage so 7-8 months of the year it is easy to manage (just have an aquarium heater in the reservoir set to 62F for the real cold days) but I need it to run during the warmer days as well. Going to get a small 1/10 hp chiller for it but can't afford it just yet so like a lot of folks I have to manage somehow with what I have......

BTW, some fine looking roots on your plants!

Thanks,

Dee