Mimed’s Perpetual Thread

[MIMedGrower]

Working on veg this morning.....


Plusherry is a girl! (Supposed s-1 of a growers clone)

These 2 pics posted opposite of my intentions.

Lowest branches will make nice cuttings soon.

Toxic Blue clones ready for some more topping. Trying to make a bush out of these so they dont go wild like their mom.

Much better. :)

 

[MIMedGrower]

Harvested 2 plants tonight.

Both went 10 weeks and a few days

Citral x Pow 33 (fan leaves were removed already at time of pic)

 

[MIMedGrower]

Citral Pow 33 x Greenbud (accidental stress hermie cross seed from early grow)

Harvested about a week early due to nanner outbreak. Definitely late weak nanners but no need for further risk.

Missed a nanner on the big bud.

Still looks pretty good. Dank smell and plenty sticky.

 

[MIMedGrower]

Took a bunch of pics of my flower room. Never looks this empty. Will have 3 ready to go next week.

 

[MIMedGrower]

Some Bud close ups

 

[MIMedGrower]

Oh yeah. I also took clones of the running Toxic Blue 33 and the Plushberry. Will update as it goes.

 

[UncleRomulus]

Veg tent last night



Plushberry growing steadily but with stressy looking leaves still. After ribbing the stem as @Srenots suggested it definitely has a cherry smell. Mrs. MMG verified.
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Toxic Blue Clones on the right.
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9 week into flower Citral Pow33 cutting. Cant hope for much but ya never know. Had to try. The mother plant is absolutely gorgeous!
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And the Herijuana Jack33 s-1 seed found in a lower bud has been topfilled with more soil and is looking healthy. I like to bury the stretching stems to form more roots.
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Just well water for that clone flowering there er?

 

[MIMedGrower]

Veg tent

Cuttngs rooting in glasses of water.

I just stick them in a cup of soil when some roots emerge and keep them under a dome for about a week or so then acclimatize.

 

[MIMedGrower]

Just well water for that clone flowering there er?

None flowering. Tent is 18/6. The 2 toxic blue clones were mature and showing female preflowers when I originally cloned them.

But yes. Potting soil and well water. And no ph down for the 8.0 ph well water as it is only 150 ppm total mineral content.

And they were topped and then the tallest branches were topped again. I found topping this pheno worked best. I have seen amd run her before. Well it was close enough and has the purple striping on the stem and sour berry / fuel smell.

We will see if she performs as well as the one I ran for tests and side by sides a coupke years ago.

Here she is the Toxic Blue mom.

She was bent in week 1 never topped. She is out of control and all tied up for dicipline!

 

[UncleRomulus]

None flowering. Tent is 18/6. The 2 toxic blue clones were mature and showing female preflowers when I originally cloned them.

But yes. Potting soil and well water. And no ph down for the 8.0 ph well water as it is only 150 ppm total mineral content.

And they were topped and then the tallest branches were topped again. I found topping this pheno worked best. I have seen amd run her before. Well it was close enough and has the purple striping on the stem and sour berry / fuel smell.

We will see if she performs as well as the one I ran for tests and side by sides a coupke years ago.

Here she is the Toxic Blue mom.

She was bent in week 1 never topped. She is out of control and all tied up for dicipline!

View attachment 870653View attachment 870654

Right on. I’m just rrreal stoned lol. Thought you were flowering out a clone for some reason or another and right after posting I realized you were revegging haha. What a burn out.
When do you find you should start worrying about ph? I don’t ph or feed anything but 150 ppm tap at 7.5 until it looks decrepit and then I hit it with ph balanced light feed.. there’s gotta be a better way lol

 

[UncleRomulus]

That toxic blue is a real dense plant for just a little bending wow. What a specimen

 

[MIMedGrower]

Right on. I’m just rrreal stoned lol. Thought you were flowering out a clone for some reason or another and right after posting I realized you were revegging haha. What a burn out.
When do you find you should start worrying about ph? I don’t ph or feed anything but 150 ppm tap at 7.5 until it looks decrepit and then I hit it with ph balanced light feed.. there’s gotta be a better way lol

I mostly ever ph new bags of soil. Sometimes they read low until they are moist a week or so I have noticed. I guess the lime/ oyster shell need activating.

I have checked with stressed or burned plants but its usually acidic because i overfed. Lol.

I check ph and ec of my well water from time to time.

 

[MIMedGrower]

That toxic blue is a real dense plant for just a little bending wow. What a specimen

Little bending. No.

She kept stretching regardless of severe super cropping (pinch and bend) of almost every top branch. The buds should be sideways but no. She keeps growing up and out so I staked the sucker and used soft garden wire to hold the branches down and ahe is still 2 inches taller than my sweet spot for the lights.

I think without being bent over in half. And brutally wrestled into submission she would be 7 feet tall by now. If there was space of course.

14 foot sativa leaning tree outside I bet.

Toxic Blue is an older Motarebel strain by the way. Feminized by CH9 with Jack 33.


Here is a description found online;

Toxic Blue 33 is as effective as she sounds. Her mother, Blue Kronic, is a stoney indica that boasts mandarine and grapefruit flavors of Bluemoonshine x Killa queen (Blue Kronic), and bulky yields from G-13/Black widow x Firecracker (Killian). Combining her mother's and father's traits, Toxic Blue 33 is one even hybrid that's perfect for all day use.
Interested in growing Toxic Blue 33? If so, it won't take long. She thrives indoors and outdoors. Blooming occurs within 7-8 weeks, and she will produces large yields indoors and outdoors.

 

[UncleRomulus]

Sorry if I’m spammin your journal with all the questions. I have but one more.. today haha.
So in veg you often don’t ph cause the soil buffers it?
I’m assuming in bloom when your on the bottle you concern yourself with ph tho right?

 

[MIMedGrower]

Sorry if I’m spammin your journal with all the questions. I have but one more.. today haha.
So in veg you often don’t ph cause the soil buffers it?
I’m assuming in bloom when your on the bottle you concern yourself with ph tho right?

Post anything you like. I like grow threads to get conversational.

No. The soil buffers everything just fine. You see. The ph swings anyway. Different nitrogen sources have different effects and generally fertilizing acidifies and plants eating raises the ph back up.

I read it like this. Adding ph down is like adding acid to the soil every watering. And ph up is like adding lime every time.

If i had harder water i would mix it down to 150 ppm with ro.

That stuff is meant for the immediate uptake in water culture. And it would still be better to have good water instead. We should know about our source water and how it reacts with our mediums and nutes.

Finding a fertilizer that works well with our water and soil is more important than brand names.

 

[UncleRomulus]

Post anything you like. I like grow threads to get conversational.

No. The soil buffers everything just fine. You see. The ph swings anyway. Different nitrogen sources have different effects and generally fertilizing acidifies and plants eating raises the ph back up.

I read it like this. Adding ph down is like adding acid to the soil every watering. And ph up is like adding lime every time.

If i had harder water i would mix it down to 150 ppm with ro.

That stuff is meant for the immediate uptake in water culture. And it would still be better to have good water instead. We should know about our source water and how it reacts with our mediums and nutes.

Finding a fertilizer that works well with our water and soil is more important than brand names.

Looks like a few controlled test plants are in order. As is I try to use as little ph product as possible in my water. I have a bottle of organic bloom that plummets the ph so I use that instead of phosphoric acid to lower and potassium silicate to raise it. If i have used potassium silicate in any significant amount it stays in the soil and keeps on buffering right? I’ve neber been brave enough to just giver without ph ing but ill try anything once.

 

[MIMedGrower]

Looks like a few controlled test plants are in order. As is I try to use as little ph product as possible in my water. I have a bottle of organic bloom that plummets the ph so I use that instead of phosphoric acid to lower and potassium silicate to raise it. If i have used potassium silicate in any significant amount it stays in the soil and keeps on buffering right? I’ve neber been brave enough to just giver without ph ing but ill try anything once.

I dont know what potassium silicate does. Sorry.

When i add 15 ml pure blend pro grow to my well water it shows about 6.2 ph. But kind with an equivilent ec made it lower. Maybe 5.8. Been a while. I had better results not ph’ing than even with the minor adjustment needed to feed at 6.5.

Didnt happen right away but the plants yellowed out on top early and greened right up without the ph down for well water only and up for the nute mixtures.

So I never phed again. Soil is a buffer. The micro life , soil and plant take care of feeding. We simply add back nutrients to the soil in potting soil gardening.

I have no experience but the immediate uptake of roots in water would require the ph to be in proper range im sure. And i bet the nute ratios matter more too.

No mention of phing fertilizer or water in the old grow books. Or greenhouse nutrient guides. Just the parameters of acceptable source water and what action to take to correct.

 

[UncleRomulus]

I dont know what potassium silicate does. Sorry.

When i add 15 ml pure blend pro grow to my well water it shows about 6.2 ph. But kind with an equivilent ec made it lower. Maybe 5.8. Been a while. I had better results not ph’ing than even with the minor adjustment needed to feed at 6.5.

Didnt happen right away but the plants yellowed out on top early and greened right up without the ph down for well water only and up for the nute mixtures.

So I never phed again. Soil is a buffer. The micro life , soil and plant take care of feeding. We simply add back nutrients to the soil in potting soil gardening.

I have no experience but the immediate uptake of roots in water would require the ph to be in proper range im sure. And i bet the nute ratios matter more too.

No mention of phing fertilizer or water in the old grow books. Or greenhouse nutrient guides. Just the parameters of acceptable source water and what action to take to correct.

Make sense. Thanks. The current fertilizer I have drops my ph to 4.5 for a good feed and this seemed crazy to not adjust. I did my research and saw that didn’t matter even then but only in good soil. I’m in soiless (hp/coco) so I’m guessing I couldn’t get away with 4.5 haha. But we will see how she goes. I’ll mess around. I found some pure blend pro online and it’s shipping now. Sounds like I won’t have to worry about ph either way with that fert. Odds are it will put me round 6.7-8 from your reports but only a test will tell. Our water is similar ppm and ph sounds like but we shall see. You got me considering moving away from soilless tho. Might have to find some percent potting soil locally up here

 

[UncleRomulus]

Oh right. The silicates just increase plants resistance to disease, mold, bugs and strengthens stems and leaves.

 

[lunarob]

I dont know what potassium silicate does. Sorry.

When i add 15 ml pure blend pro grow to my well water it shows about 6.2 ph. But kind with an equivilent ec made it lower. Maybe 5.8. Been a while. I had better results not ph’ing than even with the minor adjustment needed to feed at 6.5.

Didnt happen right away but the plants yellowed out on top early and greened right up without the ph down for well water only and up for the nute mixtures.

So I never phed again. Soil is a buffer. The micro life , soil and plant take care of feeding. We simply add back nutrients to the soil in potting soil gardening.

I have no experience but the immediate uptake of roots in water would require the ph to be in proper range im sure. And i bet the nute ratios matter more too.

No mention of phing fertilizer or water in the old grow books. Or greenhouse nutrient guides. Just the parameters of acceptable source water and what action to take to correct.

your "ph swing" phrase..interesting always...how the swing allocates and disperses nutrients in a much wider spectrum...sometimes hot...sometimes not..like a rhythym..Different animal than the precise ph environ of soilless...I can see how pinpointing and coaxing out sweetspots for different strains must be captivating. But soil seems more manageable when you have varied strains at different stages at once.