Tap Water PH, PPM. What do i do?

[S.WestFarmer]

she are sleeping right now, so no root pic :/ i got you on the pic of just my lady though. roots are pitiful though. Never done transplant, so when i transplanted from 1 gal res to 5 gal, i didnt even try to separate the roots or anything. This led to a sad root mas thats barely reaching the water. Had a nice white mass prior to transplant. Honeslty roots like like that of a 3 week plant. IDk how the roots are doing that are sitting in the net pot. if you understood any of that, youre a champ cuz dang im having a hard time describing them right now.

 

[S.WestFarmer]

those pics are from yesterday. She wakes uo at 6 tonight, mountain time. I'll shoot some updated pics of my lady and her roots then. Just no laughing, ha.

 

[Aqua Man]

she are sleeping right now, so no root pic :/ i got you on the pic of just my lady though. roots are pitiful though. Never done transplant, so when i transplanted from 1 gal res to 5 gal, i didnt even try to separate the roots or anything. This led to a sad root mas thats barely reaching the water. Had a nice white mass prior to transplant. Honeslty roots like like that of a 3 week plant. IDk how the roots are doing that are sitting in the net pot. if you understood any of that, youre a champ cuz dang im having a hard time describing them right now.

Ok doesn't look to bad. So do you know if the roots are brown, slimy or smell musty?

I would do your 120ppm of tap and then 400 ppm nutes so a ppm of about 550ppm and see how they go over the next few days. Take daily pics and compare if you can just post Emin here and we can see if they need more or less .

Looks like early flower so she probably will eat well if the roots are ok

What are your temps/humidity?

Are you running and additives like uc roots, hydrogaurd or h202?

 

[S.WestFarmer]

Ok doesn't look to bad. So do you know if the roots are brown, slimy or smell musty?

I would do your 120ppm of tap and then 400 ppm nutes so a ppm of about 550ppm and see how they go over the next few days. Take daily pics and compare if you can just post Emin here and we can see if they need more or less .

Looks like early flower so she probably will eat well if the roots are ok

What are your temps/humidity?

Are you running and additives like uc roots, hydrogaurd or h202?

i believe they are just stained from nutes? Not really slimy. Has the browinish tint from one of my nute bottles (Big Bloom FoxFarm). Res smells like.. sitting water? its not a super clean smell, but it isnt intoxicating or anything. or well i guess you could call is slight must.

should i add more nutes when she wakes up then?

temps are 68-76. closer to 68 when shes going to bed and barely waking up. Closer to 76 when its "mid day to 5 pm" on her light schedule. from 6 am to 11 she usually sits at 72-73. Noon is cutoff time, so by then temps are dropping to the 68 i told you about.

Res temp is usually 70 according to my ppm meter.

Humidity is coasting between 30-50. maybe twice humidity has gone up to 60 since she started flower.

 

[S.WestFarmer]

off topic! i'm waiting on some Greenpoint Seeds. GM-Oozy. got 6 fem, none autoflower. this last one was autoflower and im accounting that purchase to newb worries. No need for autoflower when your indoors, correct? Do you think maybe the autofower is also why im having some issues with my plant? (probably not, just newb growing skills, haha).
but yeah im super excited about the seeds. Got a great deal on the 6 so we shall see.

 

[Aqua Man]

i believe they are just stained from nutes? Not really slimy. Has the browinish tint from one of my nute bottles (Big Bloom FoxFarm). Res smells like.. sitting water? its not a super clean smell, but it isnt intoxicating or anything. or well i guess you could call is slight must.

should i add more nutes when she wakes up then?

temps are 68-76. closer to 68 when shes going to bed and barely waking up. Closer to 76 when its "mid day to 5 pm" on her light schedule. from 6 am to 11 she usually sits at 72-73. Noon is cutoff time, so by then temps are dropping to the 68 i told you about.

Res temp is usually 70 according to my ppm meter.

Humidity is coasting between 30-50. maybe twice humidity has gone up to 60 since she started flower.

At this stage humidity of 40-60% is ok.

LED lighting you could prob do day temps of 75-80 and night temps about 70. If you have control of it.
70 res temp is good.

 

[Aqua Man]

What's your light schedule?

 

[S.WestFarmer]

At this stage humidity of 40-60% is ok.

LED lighting you could prob do day temps of 75-80 and night temps about 70. If you have control of it.
70 res temp is good.

Really? That would do me a solid on the AC. I got a 12k BTU window unit. Found it on Offerup for 50 bucks! No windows in grow room, cut a hole in wall to fit ac only. During day i set it about 70 and with help from house ac, temps stay nice. I wouldnt mind setting it at 72-73 during day. Less pull on AC.

Light schedule is 6 p.m. to 12 noon. so 18-6 schedule. I had read that for autoflower, no need to switch to 12-12 becuase more light helps plant grow better. I would like to switch to 12-12, but have no solid info on whether it woud affect yield of plant and what not. She's already all beat up :/

 

[Aqua Man]

Really? That would do me a solid on the AC. I got a 12k BTU window unit. Found it on Offerup for 50 bucks! No windows in grow room, cut a hole in wall to fit ac only. During day i set it about 70 and with help from house ac, temps stay nice. I wouldnt mind setting it at 72-73 during day. Less pull on AC.

Light schedule is 6 p.m. to 12 noon. so 18-6 schedule. I had read that for autoflower, no need to switch to 12-12 becuase more light helps plant grow better. I would like to switch to 12-12, but have no solid info on whether it woud affect yield of plant and what not. She's already all beat up :/

You got it... That's why I asked no need to be 12/12 with an auto.

You can bump day time to temps to 75-80 and do 70 at night.

Oh and yes bump nutes up to 400ppm. So 120 from tap and 400ppm nutes. Right about 520ppm total.

 

[S.WestFarmer]

You got it... That's why I asked no need to be 12/12 with an auto.

You can bump day time to temps to 75-80 and do 70 at night.

Oh and yes bump nutes up to 400ppm. So 120 from tap and 400ppm nutes. Right about 520ppm total.

Right on man glad I’m on the right schedule.

Awesome I’ll hang my temps a little higher now aqua, gracias

Ah ok so 520 would be okay? She has had severe bite burn didn’t wanna give her good water and a lot of bites in case it uptakes more than she was and she over fertilizes again. If that’s no issue then I will shoot my ppm up to about 520 as recommended.

When d eruthing is going smooth, feed schedule calls for about 1100 ppm give or take some, im not looking at my schedule. Question is, if she were to b healthy at this point, would 1100 ppm be ok?

 

[Aqua Man]

Right on man glad I’m on the right schedule.

Awesome I’ll hang my temps a little higher now aqua, gracias

Ah ok so 520 would be okay? She has had severe bite burn didn’t wanna give her good water and a lot of bites in case it uptakes more than she was and she over fertilizes again. If that’s no issue then I will shoot my ppm up to about 520 as recommended.

When d eruthing is going smooth, feed schedule calls for about 1100 ppm give or take some, im not looking at my schedule. Question is, if she were to b healthy at this point, would 1100 ppm be ok?

Not in your growing condition and size of plant. I would guess and only a guess about 600-700ppm. If you had optimal light and growing conditions with a bigger photoperiod plants then yes. My feed on week 1 of flower is at 1000ppm with 85000 lux and CO2 at 1200ppm. I could probably bump a tiny bit higher but they are healthy. Pic might look a little light but in natural light they are nice and green but not dark overfed

 

[Aqua Man]

Not in your growing condition and size of plant. I would guess and only a guess about 600-700ppm. If you had optimal light and growing conditions with a bigger photoperiod plants then yes. My feed on week 1 of flower is at 1000ppm with 85000 lux and CO2 at 1200ppm. I could probably bump a tiny bit higher but they are healthy.

End of week 2 will see some pruning once i see what my budsites will look like closer to the end of stretch. growth is stupid right now over 2" a day. The ppm drop about 20-30ppm a day before adding water back so a little more would work but better to feed a little light than to heavy.

 

[S.WestFarmer]

Not in your growing condition and size of plant. I would guess and only a guess about 600-700ppm. If you had optimal light and growing conditions with a bigger photoperiod plants then yes. My feed on week 1 of flower is at 1000ppm with 85000 lux and CO2 at 1200ppm. I could probably bump a tiny bit higher but they are healthy. Pic might look a little light but in natural light they are nice and green but not dark overfed

Alright, i'll take those numbers down and into consideration aqua thank you.
man, they look lovely! how many are they? how do you incorporate the co2? I wasnt aware lux was something one should be aware about honestly. what are lux? aha.

 

[S.WestFarmer]

End of week 2 will see some pruning once i see what my budsites will look like closer to the end of stretch. growth is stupid right now over 2" a day. The ppm drop about 20-30ppm a day before adding water back so a little more would work but better to feed a little light than to heavy.

2" a day is nothing short of amazing man. What are optimal growng conditions and light?

 

[Aqua Man]

Lux is just a measurement of light. It's not the best measurement to use. Par is a better indicator. But I can justify buying a par meter.

Thats 4 plants. During stretch your plants growth will explode.

I run a sealed room and inject CO2 gas into it using a controller.

Optimal conditions to shoot for

68-70 water temps is what I would recommend but I'm testing higher at the moment. That's another story.

75F leaf temps. Not the same as air temps. You can check this with and IR thermometer.

I use lumens/lux to measure my lights but also read the plants. I do seedlings at 5000-10000 lux. Veg starting at 10000 and increasing to 40000 then flower 40000 to about 85000-90000 depending on if I see light bleeching.

CO2 500ppm for veg and 1200ppm until about 2 weeks before harvest. Then back to 500ppm.

I use a humidifier, dehumidifier, AC, and heater all run off controllers so it's automated.

I run an hlg 600 for light. The light is the biggest factor in determining growth.

 

[cemchris]

Sodium and Calcium are going to be what you want to pay attention to in tap water. The rest of that doesnt matter as much on the report unless it lists the micros which can save you on nutes. The other thing is if your ppm's fluctuate depending on the month because they change their water source.

Me personally I try to avoid RO at all costs unless its absolutely needs it. Its insanely wasteful. For every 1 gal of RO you are dumping 2-5 gals down the drain. Using things like hiboys is a good alt.

With something like DWC I would be using Only RO, if anything, for the PH stability along with everything else.

 

[S.WestFarmer]

Lux is just a measurement of light. It's not the best measurement to use. Par is a better indicator. But I can justify buying a par meter.

Thats 4 plants. During stretch your plants growth will explode.

I run a sealed room and inject CO2 gas into it using a controller.

Optimal conditions to shoot for

68-70 water temps is what I would recommend but I'm testing higher at the moment. That's another story.

75F leaf temps. Not the same as air temps. You can check this with and IR thermometer.

I use lumens/lux to measure my lights but also read the plants. I do seedlings at 5000-10000 lux. Veg starting at 10000 and increasing to 40000 then flower 40000 to about 85000-90000 depending on if I see light bleeching.

CO2 500ppm for veg and 1200ppm until about 2 weeks before harvest. Then back to 500ppm.

I use a humidifier, dehumidifier, AC, and heater all run off controllers so it's automated.

I run an hlg 600 for light. The light is the biggest factor in determining growth.

man so youre at least a couple grand deep in to your growing uh?! man thats badass. Most of what you just posted i know nothing about. well the lux, luens, ir, and the stuff bout c02. I'll look into an IR meter for the next grow. in your grow room, is that foam insulation for your walls?

4 plants!? holy bananas man i thought that was closer to 8. How long have you been growing?

 

[S.WestFarmer]

Sodium and Calcium are going to be what you want to pay attention to in tap water. The rest of that doesnt matter as much on the report unless it lists the micros which can save you on nutes. The other thing is if your ppm's fluctuate depending on the month because they change their water source.

Me personally I try to avoid RO at all costs unless its absolutely needs it. Its insanely wasteful. For every 1 gal of RO you are dumping 2-5 gals down the drain. Using things like hiboys is a good alt.

With something like DWC I would be using Only RO, if anything, for the PH stability along with everything else.

what do you mean youre dumping two to five gallons are being wasted? Whats a hiboy? My PH right now is fluctuating like crazy.
Ph goes up, ppm goes down. is that bueno or no bueno?

 

[Aqua Man]

man so youre at least a couple grand deep in to your growing uh?! man thats badass. Most of what you just posted i know nothing about. well the lux, luens, ir, and the stuff bout c02. I'll look into an IR meter for the next grow. in your grow room, is that foam insulation for your walls?

4 plants!? holy bananas man i thought that was closer to 8. How long have you been growing?

They are 6 weeks from seed.

Yes I built my room our if 1x2 and 2x2 with durafoam as it's reflective so I didn't need panda or orca film. It's 4x4 grow space and 2x4 for equipment.

Yes I spent about 2k total for all my equipment including RDWC system that was diy and the materials for everything.
This is the equipment side.

 

[Aqua Man]

Sodium and Calcium are going to be what you want to pay attention to in tap water. The rest of that doesnt matter as much on the report unless it lists the micros which can save you on nutes. The other thing is if your ppm's fluctuate depending on the month because they change their water source.

Me personally I try to avoid RO at all costs unless its absolutely needs it. Its insanely wasteful. For every 1 gal of RO you are dumping 2-5 gals down the drain. Using things like hiboys is a good alt.

With something like DWC I would be using Only RO, if anything, for the PH stability along with everything else.

With about 150ppm I can almost say for certain 80-100ppm will be caco3. He needs that to buffer his ph. If he went RO he would have to buy some cal mag to reconstitute it.

I use tap but like you say it's important to do water changes about once a week depending on how much you have to add back each day to prevent salt and nutrient buildup and imbalance.