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Powder Mold on Tomatoes in Humboldt

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Powder Mold on Tomatoes in Humboldt

rockycal 6 Replies 2,700 Views
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rockycal

rockycal

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Hi! Im in Humboldt County and have switched over to organic vegetable farming.
Im having a hell of a time with powder mold on my tomatoes. The solution that i used to use back in the day is no longer available.
So, I am having to purchase procidic2 and its breaking my bank account. The active ingredient is citric acid 3.5% (or so it says).
I have scoured the internet for a safe citric acid spray recipe that will not burn my plants. I was hoping that someone here has one.
I want to use citric acid because it works but I want to make my own because if I get the right recipe I will only have to spend pennies on
the dollar and I can do all my plants.
Thank you for any help.
Rocky
 
Tomatoes... lol suuure they are.

Anyway those are gonna be some expensive tomatoes using procidic2. And good luck on the PM. For tomatoes I'd just wash them with 92% wettable powdered sulphur once a week or every few days. Super cheap, super safe, and works well for PM.
 
Tomatoes... lol suuure they are.

Anyway those are gonna be some expensive tomatoes using procidic2. And good luck on the PM. For tomatoes I'd just wash them with 92% wettable powdered sulphur once a week or every few days. Super cheap, super safe, and works well for PM.


Here are two of the four houses. They were growing .. this was six weeks ago... they are attacked now. Can you send me a link. An d when you say 92% do you mean that is what the container contains? 92% wettable sulpher? Thank you for you advice. Rocky
 

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That's right 92% wettable powder sulphur. It works well in an atomizer, if using a pump sprayer make sure to get every inch of every plant, and I'd also wash your floor mats with it.

The plants will have a white dusted look when they dry but that's the sulphur. It's actually a benificial nutrient, in my experience plants actually seem to really like it. This is the stuff I use.

 
Don't you have "blue stone"available?That is mix between copper(the blue thing)and lime for that kind of diseases….Most of the gardeners here use that all the time,it is really cheap...But may be sulfur is better,i never tried that.But before spraying with both things you have to clean a lot of leaves ,the lowest and all of the worst affected,put some air between the branches and between the plants and the ground.....I really like that greenhouse that can be opened so much!
 
Hi! Im in Humboldt County and have switched over to organic vegetable farming.
Im having a hell of a time with powder mold on my tomatoes. The solution that i used to use back in the day is no longer available.
So, I am having to purchase procidic2 and its breaking my bank account. The active ingredient is citric acid 3.5% (or so it says).
I have scoured the internet for a safe citric acid spray recipe that will not burn my plants. I was hoping that someone here has one.
I want to use citric acid because it works but I want to make my own because if I get the right recipe I will only have to spend pennies on
the dollar and I can do all my plants.
Thank you for any help.
Rocky


If you are referring to WPM -- White Powdery Mildew then I have been successful using a milk/water mixture (1 Part Milk, 2 Parts Water). I spray the entire plant once per week and it seems to be working. It smells like curdled milk but works none the less. Be aware the plants will have milk stains after and you will want to take care not to confuse them with WPM. I use it in a greenhouse and the area of grass and weeds around the edge get WPMbut the plants themselves stay safe. Good airflow and when it starts cooling off at the end of AUG I add in a dehumidifier to combat mold as well.
 
Citric acid and sulphur are the only organic stuff I know for powdery mildew. Remember to buy sulphur that comes out clean on the tomatoes so you don't have to wipe all of them (takes forever if you run a commercial operation).
 
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