Transplanted from 1 gal to 3 gal and got N toxicity?

[jhartley295]

So, I transplanted from 1 gal Happy Frog soil/coconut fiber mix to 3 gal Happy Frog/Ocean Forest/coconut fiber mix at late veg/early bloom and got N toxicity for some reason? So I flushed and I'm waiting for pots to dry out completely before watering/nutrient solution.

New leaves are bright yellow since flushing 3 days ago and now it's (chlorosis) moving to larger top leaves.

From my research it pooks like iron deficiency/lockout.

Any suggestions would be most appreciated. I'm worried and a very confused noob at this point and not sure what to do.

 

[Beachwalker]

Talk about your pH

 

[jhartley295]

Talk about your pH

Soil test is right around 6.0, well water (hard water-460ppm) adjusted to 6.2 for nutrient solution applied according to Sensi Bloom A&B nutrient schedule.

 

[Beachwalker]

So after a heavy flush leaves are often much lighter green, but you are looking a little too light, unless it's the camera angle? Could go either way on this one if I'm honest? I don't like mixing coconut and dirt I don't know what the proper pH is when you mix Coco and soil but I know soil likes a pH of 6.5, maybe somebody else is familiar with such a mix in the meantime maybe this chart will help?

I was just reading something about iron deficiency earlier today I'll come back with the article when I get a minute to find it

Edit: also when you talk about nutrient schedule are you applying at full recommended strength?

 

[Cannabizz]

It looks like a zinc deficiency but your pH is on the low side where zinc can be absorbed. Between 6-7 pH but optimal is where your level is at for zinc absorption. What kind of fertilizer are you using? How is your water run off? Is it brown or yellow? Might need some soil flushing.

Are you just beginning flowering? That produces light tops. We have to think: why is the green lacking in the yellow areas? The bottom is still green, seems to affect the newest growth.

 

[Beachwalker]

Top pic is zinc bottom is iron deficiency but regardless which it is I think that's good advice above to flush it properly, and stop the nutrients for a minute because I think you've got a lockout also I think your pH is a little low for best absorption, try 6.5, good luck!

Edit: I reread and I saw you flushed and are waiting for it to dry, hold up on the nutes for a minute and why don't you talk more about your nutrients and how you're using it, it's a common brand I don't know it but I'm sure somebody will and maybe they can offer some info while they dry out?

 

[MIMedGrower]

Likely the 460 ppm water. I would mix 3 to one with ro water. You can acidify the ph according to your meter but the minerals in the water alone are as much as a full nutrient dose every time you water.

 

[MIMedGrower]

Forgot to add. Half and half mix may be sufficient at 230ppm with a good amount of runoff each time to help wash away excess minerals.

 

[az2000]

I think it looks like new growth (which can be light that way), exacerbated by the flush. The high N caused aggressive veg growth -- and then became unavailable? (Was the soil dry enough for watering when you flushed? I.e., if you flushed while the soil was wet, the soil would experience an over-watering condition. That could add to the new growth's challenge.).

 

[jhartley295]

I think I panicked and flushed wet soil. Given the hard water source I have, it seems like a number of things combining and lockout of iron from high calcium water and possibly other nutrients as well.

I use Sensi Bloom 2-part ferts @ ~40% and a mag supplement at same strewngth every other watering. Also have Overdrive and BudX that I haven't used yet due to N excess before flushing. Seems like switching them to Ocean Forest soil at signs of flowering stage was too much Nitrogen. Since I watered after the transplant, they weren't yet dry for the flush at beginning of flowering stage and then the new yellow growth started.

I have way too many plants to take to harvest for my 2 spaces, so I tried full nutes on 2 different strains after the flush of twice pot size straight ph'd well water and neither shows worsening of N excess or improvement in yellowing of upper leaves. Weird.

I guess all I can do is wait until they dry real good and water only for those in new soil for a week and water and nutes for those established in new soil mix should have used up soil nutes after 3 weeks, right?

Will distilled water work? I have no source for RO here.

So I should lower ppm to 250 and add nutes up to the recommended 2000ppm for week 6? (3rd week of flower)

I take it CalMag with iron would not be good for hard water? Maybe an iron mist for foliage application for yellowing new leaves?

I really appreciate all the replies and tye effort to help me undo this mess I've caused. They were looking so good before transplanting up in size with fresh soil. :(

 

[jhartley295]

Top pic is zinc bottom is iron deficiency but regardless which it is I think that's good advice above to flush it properly, and stop the nutrients for a minute because I think you've got a lockout also I think your pH is a little low for best absorption, try 6.5, good luck!

View attachment 883072
View attachment 883073

Edit: I reread and I saw you flushed and are waiting for it to dry, hold up on the nutes for a minute and why don't you talk more about your nutrients and how you're using it, it's a common brand I don't know it but I'm sure somebody will and maybe they can offer some info while they dry out?

Mine look like the 2nd photo, but at 6.0 soil ph, I would think I should have a calcium deficiency and not an excess which causes iron lockout and yellowing from the top down??

So you would not feed and instead water only after soil dries out?

 

[jhartley295]

Likely the 460 ppm water. I would mix 3 to one with ro water. You can acidify the ph according to your meter but the minerals in the water alone are as much as a full nutrient dose every time you water.

I didn't know well water was so hard until.I bought the ppm meter. Ic

Likely the 460 ppm water. I would mix 3 to one with ro water. You can acidify the ph according to your meter but the minerals in the water alone are as much as a full nutrient dose every time you water.

Thanks, I'll try distilled/wellwater mix next time.

 

[jhartley295]

I just read blood meal is a good organic source of iron. May make a weak tea foliage spray for the yellowing leaves?

 

[Steve705]

Sounds like maybe a little to much stress happened to the plant. Transplanting, flushing, nutrient levels In feed. Maybe the plant got a little to stressed and locked out. Just taking a guess here.

 

[az2000]

I just read blood meal is a good organic source of iron. May make a weak tea foliage spray for the yellowing leaves?

Blood Meal has 12-13% nitrogen. If you just flushed to resolve N toxicity, it doesn't sound right to add a source of N back in. (But, I don't know. To me it looks like new growth that was spurred by the available N, and is now starved by the lack theeof.).

EDIT: Also, I don't see any blood-meal labels showing iron in their guaranteed analysis.

 

[Migrower]

So, I transplanted from 1 gal Happy Frog soil/coconut fiber mix to 3 gal Happy Frog/Ocean Forest/coconut fiber mix at late veg/early bloom and got N toxicity for some reason? So I flushed and I'm waiting for pots to dry out completely before watering/nutrient solution.

New leaves are bright yellow since flushing 3 days ago and now it's (chlorosis) moving to larger top leaves.

From my research it pooks like iron deficiency/lockout.

Any suggestions would be most appreciated. I'm worried and a very confused noob at this point and not sure what to do.

It may be because the ocean forest is so hot especially until the first few waterings..

 

[m8ty]

First get an R.O. Filter and remove all the table salt from the hard water.

People repot plants all the time or add new soil to hungry plants with out any toxitity or so called lock out problems, you are killing it with too many nutrients.

 

[oldskol4evr]

Soil test is right around 6.0, well water (hard water-460ppm) adjusted to 6.2 for nutrient solution applied according to Sensi Bloom A&B nutrient schedule.

i dont approve of flushing soil,half and half another story,coco is good for holding moisture but also salts,moving on,if your sure your ph is 6. that will still roll pretty good feeding in at 6.5 to start,might even get away with a little higher,i never go past 6.8 with low ph soil,reason i mention this is ocean has plenty of nutes for the change,but you flushed it out, ocean would have got you threw stretch and then work in the nutes,so 6.0 ph feed at a start of 6.5 give 3 days not better 6.7 and so forth probally get your gear in order

 

[jhartley295]

Blood Meal has 12-13% nitrogen. If you just flushed to resolve N toxicity, it doesn't sound right to add a source of N back in. (But, I don't know. To me it looks like new growth that was spurred by the available N, and is now starved by the lack theeof.).

EDIT: Also, I don't see any blood-meal labels showing iron in their guaranteed analysis.

I read an agricultural article on blood meal for iron. If it mentioned the high N, I missed it. The three Amnesia Haze autos definitely don't need more N.

 

[jhartley295]

First get an R.O. Filter and remove all the table salt from the hard water.

People repot plants all the time or add new soil to hungry plants with out any toxitity or so called lock out problems, you are killing it with too many nutrients.

So the calcium/magnesium in my well water is causing lockout and/or over feeding?