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Thirp Predator, makibg a haome for them?

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Thirp Predator, makibg a haome for them?

Ph 007 18 Replies 1,659 Views
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Ph 007

Ph 007

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I have some thrips predators I went to try to make some sort of home for them son when their in my tent hopefully the will survive longer and breed even

Iv had these predator a few times in the past the don't seem.to last very long due to heat or humidity, I believe If humidity is 70+ then new predator eggs will hatch.

I was thinking some sort of container so humidity will be high for them and maybe some sort of way for then tonhsve water or keep the sawdust the come in moist

Even breed my own would be great as they are expensive to keep buying


Any idea guys, on building a home for them or even a breeding tank
 
Hi I have two types one eats the eggs that's Amblyseius cucumeris

Then I also have Amblyseius swirskii they eat the adult thrips
 
Never tried but this article seems to be a good start for the cucumeris. I would assume that you would need a constant source of food though. Maybe an outdoor pit that you can add new soil with fresh thrips to and keep the eggs cycling? I think they are both similar in how they breed.



 
Never tried but this article seems to be a good start for the cucumeris. I would assume that you would need a constant source of food though. Maybe an outdoor pit that you can add new soil with fresh thrips to and keep the eggs going? I think they are similar in how they breed.


Thats a nice link their on them thank you , i will have a good look later , it looks alot of Info to take in the current moment in time lol,

I these come in saw dust I'm guessing Tue saw dust dries out and they die.l special the eggs. The food if the trips
But if i did want breed them I don't known what I'd feed them
 
The article states they are able to feed on pollen when no other food sources exist. I think you gave them a high humidity and high temps, the population would explode if you had the food. Good luck though, sounds interesting.
 
The article states they are able to feed on pollen when no other food sources exist. I think you gave them a high humidity and high temps, the population would explode if you had the food. Good luck though, sounds interesting.
Own is it thanks, I'll have a good read or that link later
 
From page 2:

"Ornamental Pepper Banker Plants Flowering ornamental peppers ‘Purple Flash, Black Pearl, Masquerade’ placed in non-flowering ornamentals & vegetables attract thrips & provide pollen to the predatory bug Orius & predatory mites Amblyseius swirskii. Also effective for whiteflies."

Your beneficial mites live on this plant and feed on its pollen when there aren't thrips available. When there are thrips in your grow area, they will be more attracted to the pepper plant than to your cannabis, where your predatory mites are having a pollen orgy. Any thrip that comes along becomes the delicious main course after the swirskii have been chowing on pollen all day.
 
From page 2:

"Ornamental Pepper Banker Plants Flowering ornamental peppers ‘Purple Flash, Black Pearl, Masquerade’ placed in non-flowering ornamentals & vegetables attract thrips & provide pollen to the predatory bug Orius & predatory mites Amblyseius swirskii. Also effective for whiteflies."

Your beneficial mites live on this plant and feed on its pollen when there aren't thrips available. When there are thrips in your grow area, they will be more attracted to the pepper plant than to your cannabis, where your predatory mites are having a pollen orgy. Any thrip that comes along becomes the delicious main course after the swirskii have been chowing on pollen all day.
Sound good I might try one, but it mentions something about non flowering what'd that about maybe only can use in veg
 
Sound good I might try one, but it mentions something about non flowering what'd that about maybe only can use in veg

Yeah it mentions placing the flowering pepper in a nonflowering garden but that's a maximum efficiency kind of thing. It'll still do a great job in either veg or flower. In flower, because of the trichomes blocking the free travel of your beneficial mites, you might see a reduction in effectiveness, but for the rest of your plant that isn't covered by trichomes it will be plenty effective.
 
Yeah it mentions placing the flowering pepper in a nonflowering garden but that's a maximum efficiency kind of thing. It'll still do a great job in either veg or flower. In flower, because of the trichomes blocking the free travel of your beneficial mites, you might see a reduction in effectiveness, but for the rest of your plant that isn't covered by trichomes it will be plenty effective.
I didn't know the trichomes would cause problems that mad, is it in the link I still now ready it yet will soon, been busy, also u out the new batch of predators in my tent earlier, I need look into this more. Thanks for the help
 
cant wait to see if your predators are successful, ive used many beneficial insects with zero success,they either die or disappear without the perfect environment for them>goodluck
 
cant wait to see if your predators are successful, ive used many beneficial insects with zero success,they either die or disappear without the perfect environment for them>goodluck
Their good mate I only have the odd thrip so getting them now.to best them hopefully.

Iv had thrips about 2 years usually I buy the predictor that eats the eggs , this works it beats my thrips right back then they show up after a few Weeks.ll
Like you said they predators seem to die in have found and read that spraying the grow area with water helps.
I so this daily 1/2 times a day not to much spray as they are so small itncant be good might flood them out,
Also I noticed The saw dust the come in dries out after 2 weeks so I'm guessing the eggs and servive. Unless the lay them in the soil/coco I'm not sure
But spraying the room down like I said the seem to last a good month and thrips seem to go a way for a while
But little fuckers alewye come back.


I ignored them for a while as i was sick of spending money on predators every 2-3 months , but then the thrips go really bad when I ignored then for a few months so i had no option to buy predors again.

So in had thrips bad , so i orderd my usual egg eating predictors but also read about the other predictors that the adults thrips and buying loose is cheaper so I bough 25000 of each predictor cost good £80 total but the worked very bell this time and they worked quicker as so.many predictors, then few Weeks later I have seen the odd thrip and odd leave damage, thenleafe damage is not aloy son far so I though I'd hit the fuckers hard again another 25000 of each predictor ,I received them a few days ago

Also iv cut Polly pockets non half then filled thebhalf with preidtoes /sawdust the cone in I though the plastic polly pocket would hold moister better as its plastic

But iv wanted to try making a little sorts house for them maybe even keeping that sawdust damp 24-7 ,
This time round as well as spraying the room with water now and then I'll also spray the sawdust to keep it dam for the eggs hip fully will work .

Iv tried satcheys of.kites they last even less then the look the paper nags dried them out to quick, also hit the. With shot load of predictor has been best for me
 
Long aroty short buying 2 type predictors one that eats the adult thrips and 1 that eats the eggs has been amazing iv not had the usually leaf damage and slug like slime where the theips shit do weeks so hopefully this run can get the just now as iv seen 1-2 signs of thrips ,
 
B

Burned Haze

Guest
Dude if you have a thrip issue can’t get rid of them, you gotta go IPM and conquer it and assume it’s going to be a issue and all the other critters .because once you got a population ( you will need unregulated products and way more war on them bugs which is unneeded ) prevention is the key!
——
“ Veg stage” 1st week-3/4 week of bloom

use a efficient spinosad aka conserve sc ( you are limited per cycle/season on how many times and only spray veg-early flower aka 3/4 week of bloom )
It only takes less than 4 ml per gallon (3.5ml @ 5.5 ph) and shelf life is 7 years


—-
“Flower stage” (3rd week- harvest ) + great IPM rotate
for all season, no resistance and 100% safe till harvest and great for IPM and all pest and thrips too!
Venerate xc! My tip is forget the cannabis label “cg” it’s the same product (just labeling /rule regulators, no substance differences ). This product works great for rotation with other pesticides and a great flower stage (safe ) I think if you gave biocontrol a chance , you would fall in love <3 I know I did lol


—-

I realize the products I stated ( at least venerate xc ) will mess with predators too, it’s a better IMO choice than the predators ( but hey everyone has their own ways,i was just trying to give ya a tip eh )
 
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Dude if you have a thrip issue can’t get rid of them, you gotta go IPM and conquer it and assume it’s going to be a issue and all the other critters .because once you got a population ( you will need unregulated products and way more war on them bugs which is unneeded ) prevention is the key!
——
“ Veg stage” 1st week-3/4 week of bloom

use a efficient spinosad aka conserve sc ( you are limited per cycle/season on how many times and only spray veg-early flower aka 3/4 week of bloom )
It only takes less than 4 ml per gallon (3.5ml @ 5.5 ph) and shelf life is 7 years


—-
“Flower stage” (3rd week- harvest ) + great IPM rotate
for all season, no resistance and 100% safe till harvest and great for IPM and all pest and thrips too!
Venerate xc! My tip is forget the cannabis label “cg” it’s the same product (just labeling /rule regulators, no substance differences ). This product works great for rotation with other pesticides and a great flower stage (safe ) I think if you gave biocontrol a chance , you would fall in love <3 I know I did lol


—-

I realize the products I stated ( at least venerate xc ) will mess with predators too, it’s a better IMO choice than the predators ( but hey everyone has their own ways,i was just trying to give ya a tip eh )
I appreciate any help mate thanks :)

Ill have a loom at the link later, I don't like the ides of sprstinf my plants in have tried chemicals before the work but cause me leave problems and someriems burn under the light. Its a pain you need to do.it lights off ,I'm in bed then tho lol, also iv tried neelm seed oil.

The predators I like beduase ublob them in the tent leace them do the rest, but they die quit soon after 2-3 weeks so.if you don't get enough predictore that can wipe them out quick before the die them selves then its help'ss but not best them , hell maybe it wwbt work now bit this is my swdine time hitting them hard with to types of predictor and slot of them with me luck,
 
B

Burned Haze

Guest
I appreciate any help mate thanks :)

Ill have a loom at the link later, I don't like the ides of sprstinf my plants in have tried chemicals before the work but cause me leave problems and someriems burn under the light. Its a pain you need to do.it lights off ,I'm in bed then tho lol, also iv tried neelm seed oil.

The predators I like beduase ublob them in the tent leace them do the rest, but they die quit soon after 2-3 weeks so.if you don't get enough predictore that can wipe them out quick before the die them selves then its help'ss but not best them , hell maybe it wwbt work now bit this is my swdine time hitting them hard with to types of predictor and slot of them with me luck,


The cool thing about the “flower stage “ aka venerate xc (2nd thing I recommend ) it’s a biocontrol , meaning it’s not a chemical, or a oil or a mix to repel the bugs. Biocontrols works as long as you get the bugs before the populations aren’t crazy high and if you can mix and rotate the products like Grandevo every week ( you can beat almost anything known to man, it’s awesome and safe on bees, plus cheap per gallon if you get non cannabis version )
 
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