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Intersting Info on Phosphorus Lockout and Related Issues w/ Cal-Mag

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Intersting Info on Phosphorus Lockout and Related Issues w/ Cal-Mag

Jimster 4 Replies 3,265 Views
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Jimster

Jimster

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While trying to figure out how tums binds with phosphorus in my stomach, for kidney failure issues, I found an interesting tidbit of info regarding Phosphorus and Calcium's interactions. The info is great when you look into the implications of too much Calcium, and the lockouts that many growers who use a LOT of cal-mag when not needed are seeing. Here is the info:

Phosphorus is most needed for early root development so the application of phosphate needs to be concentrated as starter fertilizer near the developing root systems. To create the needed acidity under the calcareous soil condition the use of sulfur with the phosphate source and the ability to add organic amendment and phosphorus solubilizing bacteria would allow a complete package for addressing the calcareous constraint. Under calcareous soil conditions beside the immobilizing of phosphorus micronutrients such as Zn, Fe, Mn, and Cu are often constrained.

This info comes from the Univ of PuertoRico and is mostly concerning soils with a lot of calcium in them, and how to overcome the issues that it causes, primarily with Phosphorus being changed into Calcium Phosphate... a mineral that can't be used by plants. It might be called Apatite. This just underscores the dangers of using too much stuff on your plants without understanding the interplay between them. The solution to 90% of the problems on here recommend adding more Cal-Mag
I have always recommended using the minimum amount of nutes and stuff to avoid cross reactions. This info might explain why things seem to spiral out of control whenever a deficiency or lockout is suspected. Keep your nutes to a minimum, keep your roots rich in O2, keep Ph between 6 and 7, and you should be good!
The last line of the info is very important, as it could address the root causes of many lockout conditions, especially the Magnesium lockout many seem to experience.
 
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Also many cal mag products use calcium nitrate and excess nitrogen locks out potassium. Which is misdiagnosed as a mag deficiency all the time.

Like you said @Jimster less is more!
 
Also many cal mag products use calcium nitrate and excess nitrogen locks out potassium. Which is misdiagnosed as a mag deficiency all the time.

Like you said @Jimster less is more!
... and I'll bet that there are another few questions on the new posts asking for help, and the first thing that gets poured on plants is Cal-Mag... mostly from newer growers that don't quite get the link between DWC, Medium growing, RO/Distilled water, and Cal-Mag. Ph is just an added mystery. Fixing problems in plants isn't like medicine in people where you add a pill or something else and things get better. It's incredibly simple but can be maddening to some trying to run with the Olympians before stumbling along with the drunks for a while. I guess I can't fault enthusiasm, though!
 
I use a 2 part that utilizes cal nitrate as the n source. I have never used cal mag. If anything you end up cutting back on the cal nitrate depending on strain and starting water ppm.
 
I use a 2 part that utilizes cal nitrate as the n source. I have never used cal mag. If anything you end up cutting back on the cal nitrate depending on strain and starting water ppm.


Professional greenhouses usually have 2 tanks. One for only cal nitrate and the rest of the elements in the other to avoid the calcium coming out of solution. And they can mix appropriately.

Botanicare kind trio has the base as cal nit amd the grow and bloom bottles have the rest so you can customize.

Its likely the best way although i do like the simplicity of the one bottle i use. ;-)
 
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