Please help:(

[AnselAdams]

Yup I'm telling ya bro these plants 600ppm eating like hogs though at over 5 gal a day for the 4 plants. Remember it's grow specific so some may like a bit more or less. If you follow VPD you optimize nutrient uptake. When temp and humidity are out then you may need a bit more or less. I would say range of 500-800 is about the limits depending on humidity and temps which equal nutrient uptake.
View attachment 975044

Thank You; I now feel a lot better.

These monster Auto Train Wreck seeds i have seem to do very well in my environment. I do try and stay within the vpd envelope. During flower, the average is 5 gallons a day for two plants. So it tracks with your description.

 

[Aqua Man]

Thank You; I now feel a lot better.

These monster Auto Train Wreck seeds i have seem to do very well in my environment. I do try and stay within the vpd envelope. During flower, the average is 5 gallons a day for two plants. So it tracks with your description.

And autos usually like a bit lighter feed from what I hear. I can't speak from experience on that.

 

[OgGrowingDro]

Sorry I haven't replied ive been real busy today but I put a little bit of RO with what was there it was .4 ec (mainly cal/mg) Im going to have to make a quick batch of new water i dumped all my collected water earlier today because i mixed it right before i got answers ive been waiting for water it takes me like 8 hrs for a rez worth i should have enough now but im gonna have to just drain whats in their and put in the new batch im gonna aim for 1.0 ec. I think im going to switch my meter to ppms too? I feel like with ec i cant see the difference as much as ppm is it actually more accurate?

 

[Aqua Man]

Sorry I haven't replied ive been real busy today but I put a little bit of RO with what was there it was .4 ec (mainly cal/mg) Im going to have to make a quick batch of new water i dumped all my collected water earlier today because i mixed it right before i got answers ive been waiting for water it takes me like 8 hrs for a rez worth i should have enough now but im gonna have to just drain whats in their and put in the new batch im gonna aim for 1.0 ec. I think im going to switch my meter to ppms too? I feel like with ec i cant see the difference as much as ppm is it actually more accurate?

Either is fine. But no more than 100ppm of cal mag. Mix nutes as I described earlier it's important to add silica first them ph down to 6.2 before adding anything else or you will cause precipitate.

 

[OgGrowingDro]

Draining/filling rez now i had to be somewhat quick about it and ppms are only 400 and i have no more water so im sending it and will adjust tomorrow if need be

 

[Aqua Man]

Draining/filling rez now i had to be somewhat quick about it and ppms are only 400 and i have no more water so im sending it and will adjust tomorrow if need be

Just hope there is not a ratio issue.

 

[OgGrowingDro]

I put silica in at 1ml per g let it sit for 5-10 then calmag to 200 pm and like 13mls micro and 45 mls bloom for like a 10 gallon rez i had to estimate size a bit so i hope im in the clear and i made sure i had a pump mixing up the water since i was in a time crunch

 

[Beachwalker]

Hey guys having an issue with one of my gals here and its looking like the others might follow if I dont fix it.
setup:
20 gal RDWC 4 plants AUTO NorthernLights
Ph gaurdian monitor
3 leds (800 real watts) 18:6
Temps: 68-82 water: 66-73 RH: 50%
Hydrogaurd(2mls per g), DG Protekt Silica(1.5-2mls per g), floralicious plus(.75ml per g), calimagic, GH trio (currently using 1ml micro to 10 mls bloom no grow )
RO<25
PH: I have a problem where I cant get my ph to rise with this grow and last, I believe it has something to do with air quality but im not sure, it stays pretty solid but will maybe drop a point every other day or so
Ec: accidentally burned the plants a lil ik :/ but ec never rose much at all it was staying at 2.0 (slowly increased nutes throughout grow) for a long time and it slowly started rising(.1 after 2-3 days), I dropped it to 1.6 at first sight and I thought maybe I was giving too much regular nutes and not enough calimagic because i have been seeing tiny spots like this since late veg and it seemed raising calmag helped for a little while (went from .4 ec to like 3-4mls per g) then after maybe 2 week or so the problem started getting worse for the small plant. I dropped the nutes and added like 5 mls of calmag it continued getting worse(3 plants looked super healthy just the smallest having issues at first) and ec slowly started rising and i dropped it to 1.4 it rises .1 after like 2 days and calmag is 1.0 ec I know autos require less nutes than photos and that calcium is very important in my situation but thats too much isnt it? Now my healthy plants are starting to show symptoms. I also noticed the small plant is much further in flower than the others and im worried its gonna happen to the rest :/. I have had the plants sitting in .5 ec water just calmag overnight to try and flush them out. Im about to make more nutrients and looking for advice. Id really like to get this problem figured out because its caused too many headaches throughout my last grow and I had came to the conclusion I wasnt giving enough calcium in the end. If I missed anything please feel free to ask questions thank you! (Photos of when first plant started to get bad and now)

In my opinion it has nothing to do with calcium, thats why even though you've been adding extra cal it has no effect;

the canopies too thick, your air flow is too low and you're a humidity is too high;

brown spots/black ring = septoria also search 'yellow leaf spot', good luck

Hey guys having an issue with one of my gals here and its looking like the others might follow if I dont fix it.
setup:
20 gal RDWC 4 plants AUTO NorthernLights
Ph gaurdian monitor
3 leds (800 real watts) 18:6
Temps: 68-82 water: 66-73 RH: 50%
Hydrogaurd(2mls per g), DG Protekt Silica(1.5-2mls per g), floralicious plus(.75ml per g), calimagic, GH trio (currently using 1ml micro to 10 mls bloom no grow )
RO<25
PH: I have a problem where I cant get my ph to rise with this grow and last, I believe it has something to do with air quality but im not sure, it stays pretty solid but will maybe drop a point every other day or so
Ec: accidentally burned the plants a lil ik :/ but ec never rose much at all it was staying at 2.0 (slowly increased nutes throughout grow) for a long time and it slowly started rising(.1 after 2-3 days), I dropped it to 1.6 at first sight and I thought maybe I was giving too much regular nutes and not enough calimagic because i have been seeing tiny spots like this since late veg and it seemed raising calmag helped for a little while (went from .4 ec to like 3-4mls per g) then after maybe 2 week or so the problem started getting worse for the small plant. I dropped the nutes and added like 5 mls of calmag it continued getting worse(3 plants looked super healthy just the smallest having issues at first) and ec slowly started rising and i dropped it to 1.4 it rises .1 after like 2 days and calmag is 1.0 ec I know autos require less nutes than photos and that calcium is very important in my situation but thats too much isnt it? Now my healthy plants are starting to show symptoms. I also noticed the small plant is much further in flower than the others and im worried its gonna happen to the rest :/. I have had the plants sitting in .5 ec water just calmag overnight to try and flush them out. Im about to make more nutrients and looking for advice. Id really like to get this problem figured out because its caused too many headaches throughout my last grow and I had came to the conclusion I wasnt giving enough calcium in the end. If I missed anything please feel free to ask questions thank you! (Photos of when first plant started to get bad and now)

Leaf Septoria and Cannabis: Prevention & Treatment - RQS Blog

Cannabis leaf septoria is not the most terrifying of infections, but it is still bad news. In this article, find out how to identify, prevent, and treat it!

www.royalqueenseeds.com

 

[OgGrowingDro]

I have looked into it before it is definitely possible im doing what i can i will try and add in another fan later today, humidity never reaches over 60. I will say one thing i noticed is it says it starts in lower canopy and im seeing everything in upper newer growth. I adjusted my nutrient regimen and ppms went from 400 to 350 over night and ph went from 6.0 to 5.8.

 

[Aqua Man]

I have looked into it before it is definitely possible im doing what i can i will try and add in another fan later today, humidity never reaches over 60. I will say one thing i noticed is it says it starts in lower canopy and im seeing everything in upper newer growth. I adjusted my nutrient regimen and ppms went from 400 to 350 over night and ph went from 6.0 to 5.8.

Well that's a good sign. You can likely go 500ppm if your dropping 50ppm in a day. But it good that's it's eating

 

[Beachwalker]

I have looked into it before it is definitely possible im doing what i can i will try and add in another fan later today, humidity never reaches over 60. I will say one thing i noticed is it says it starts in lower canopy and im seeing everything in upper newer growth. I adjusted my nutrient regimen and ppms went from 400 to 350 over night and ph went from 6.0 to 5.8.

You can have septoria at 30% humidity; my advice is to follow the info on Royal Queen seeds link above, also recommend you start feeding balanced nutrients

I eliminated septoria years ago by using liquid copper fungicide, burning sulfur and greatly increasing air flow on the floor, good luck

Edit: by my own observations it starts mid plant, and regardless just look at the pictures; consider what you're doing and why it's not working? I chased it for months thinking it was calcium and this and that too, it can be frustrating

 

[OgGrowingDro]

I greatly appreciate the info and will look into solutions deeper when I can. Might i ask you guys what a normal plant nearing end of harvest looks like? I know theirs obvious issues but ive also been told by a couple people half of it is the leaves dying because its nearing death but im not experienced enough to know forsure and would love some info on that too..

 

[Aqua Man]

I greatly appreciate the info and will look into solutions deeper when I can. Might i ask you guys what a normal plant nearing end of harvest looks like? I know theirs obvious issues but ive also been told by a couple people half of it is the leaves dying because its nearing death but im not experienced enough to know forsure and would love some info on that too..

If you feed a plant enough through its life but not to much it should be fairly healthy looking by that I don't mean lush deep green. Some yellowing is to be expected as we cut back on nitrogen. If your running cooler temps at the end you may see more colors pop like purple but it's not really about leaf color it's are they healthy. It's not uncommon to see some signs of deficiency at the end either

 

[Beachwalker]

I greatly appreciate the info and will look into solutions deeper when I can. Might i ask you guys what a normal plant nearing end of harvest looks like? I know theirs obvious issues but ive also been told by a couple people half of it is the leaves dying because its nearing death but im not experienced enough to know forsure and would love some info on that too..

Mix a level teaspoon of baking soda to a quart of water and dip one leaf that's moderately affected in an area where there are other affected leaves next to it for comparison, and mark it with a twist tie or similar and take pictures for later comparison

Then in 24 to 48 hours that leaf will look the same as when you dipped it, however the comparison leaves next to it will have progressed; and then you'll know one way or the other

 

[OgGrowingDro]

Just now got to add water it got to 300 and was still dropping and ph 5.7 took out and re-added and got nutes to 490 ill have to get more water lol ph still 5.7 I added another fan under the canopy and cleaned as many already dead leaves as possible, im going to have my roomate get some baking soda later tonight and will hopefully try that out soon!

 

[OgGrowingDro]

Ppms when from 490 to 470 and my ph dropped to 4.9? What do you guys think about that, ive got some baking soda im going to try that trick with later too

 

[Dirtbag]

If ph and EC is dropping you may have too much ammonium nitrogen in there, but I hvent looked into your nutrients so I dont know... but the roots exude a cation in exchange which reacts in the rootzone causing a ph drop.

 

[OgGrowingDro]

The only thing in my lineup that has ammonium the gh micro, but usually my ph falls steady the only other time it dropped like that was the other week (i used like 1ml micro to 10ml bloom) and from what was gathered on here I wasnt using enough micro causing plant issues even then. Im confused what do you think about air quality? I do live in a small town but I'm right across from grain elevator so im sure that doesnt help. Side note as well i didnt think about it till now i did fill my water just a tad bit to much the other day and it may have barely gotten into the clay pebbles and dropped it hard but i normally try and avoid doing that and ph will still slowly fall.

 

[OgGrowingDro]

Line up is gh trio no grow atm calimagic dg protekt, floralicious(not using atm), and hydrogaurd

 

[Aqua Man]

If ph and EC is dropping you may have too much ammonium nitrogen in there, but I hvent looked into your nutrients so I dont know... but the roots exude a cation in exchange which reacts in the rootzone causing a ph drop.

Yup they release h+ ions when uptaking ammonia/ammonium.

Also would recommend checking roots for any decay as this could be the source but like @Dirtbag says that could also be nutrient source.

Lack of buffering can make this worse.

At that ph microbes will likely start dying off making the problem worse.