Grow Journal - A Noobie Diary.

[iTurniGrow]

Tbh next grow just don't do what ya done this 1.lol..just let emm grow. To much info can be given. U spot 1 thing wrong and peeps fill ya head with all kind of info solving.. Frank is a good un to chat with. Few other top growers.. Gl with this 1 n any u do after.. UK growers are getting better. Lol

U will do OK m8 no worry there. Plenty of smoke for u n ya boys lol

Defo, Frank, aqua and fourth have been good with me :) & all th new people during my stressful moment

Yeah it was just th feed we had th issue with. Next grow we'll continue using biobizz but at halve the recommended amount and not pay attention to ppm and see how they go. Think we'll manage to grow monsters.

 

[Oldmanbud50]

Defo, Frank, aqua and fourth have been good with me :) & all th new people during my stressful moment

Yeah it was just th feed we had th issue with. Next grow we'll continue using biobizz but at halve the recommended amount and not pay attention to ppm and see how they go. Think we'll manage to grow monsters.

Gl m8. I started like u over thinking. And was testing everything.. Until I realised I was over doing it all.. Now I just check pH level of water going I. And spot on with nutes. And have noticed a big difference. But ya lots of good heads on m8

 

[Vesti Bule]

10 Most Common Reasons for Yellow Leaves

1. Root pH
2. Poor Watering Practices
3. Nitrogen Deficiency

View attachment 1037563

Why Cannabis Leaves Turn Yellow | Grow Weed Easy

Are your marijuana leaves turning yellow? View the 10 most common reasons this happens (with pictures) and get the solutions!

www.growweedeasy.com

Yes. @iTurniGrow read this.

 

[Vesti Bule]

5L everytime the pots were light as a feather :p. Feed feed water only like aqua suggested.

Pictures today x

So is 10ML of BLOOM FEED in 10L of water reading @ 103 PPM normal?

-

Okay fucking feeding is doing my head in

If 1ML of feed in 1L of water is 63PPM
Then how does 10ML in 10L of water read @103 PPM? < exclude the 48 PPM Water reading from before

Umm...I don't know what "fucking feeding" is exactly, but I think there is a good chance you are doing one or both things wrong...

(JK, of course. and please pardon the cheap literalism...!)

 

[Beachwalker]

Yes. @iTurniGrow read this.

That's exactly why I just posted that & didn't say anything because op's stuck on some 'one mil /one liter' loop & I don't even know what he's talking about??

I just wanted to show him/her what's wrong with the plant so I posted the pictures and the article.

Op here's a quick tip to make your life easier; I've read your thread, recommend you go back to feeding by PPM and let this one mil / one whatever you're trying to do, Let It Go friend; good luck

 

[iTurniGrow]

That's exactly why I just posted that & didn't say anything because op's stuck on some 'one mil /one liter' loop & I don't even know what he's talking about??

I just wanted to show him/her what's wrong with the plant so I posted the pictures and the article.

Op here's a quick tip to make your life easier; I've read your thread, recommend you go back to feeding by PPM and let this one mil / one whatever you're trying to do, Let It Go friend; good luck

It's the recommended feeding chart by biobizz. 1ml to 1L
If I go by PPM again I imagine it would get worse¿. I've had a few reads online and people are saying toss th ppm meter aside because it's organic . Idk what difference that makes. Im inexperienced with nutrients and feeding.

 

[Beachwalker]

It's the recommended feeding chart by biobizz. 1ml to 1L
If I go by PPM again I imagine it would get worse¿. I've had a few reads online and people are saying toss th ppm meter aside because it's organic . Idk what difference that makes. Im inexperienced with nutrients and feeding.

I understand but you have to stop with the feeding charts, none of us use them they're kinda for beginners, most of them are too aggressive and it's obviously not working for you, recommend go back to PPM

Here's a quick example, I grew this Bud

using these two nutrients and nothing else

They're still the only nutrients I use in veg and I fed it via ppm according to plant size and needs, which is what I recommend to you, hope this helps

 

[Aqua Man]

This will help explain why I feel ppm is not a good unit of measurement with organics. It cannot be compared to the ppm values we all understand from inorganic nutrients for the reasons discussed in this link. Its not totally useless but not exactly reliable. And IMO organics should be fed half dose like any fert and adjusted based on plant response

Redirect Notice

 

[iTurniGrow]

I understand but you have to stop with the feeding charts, none of us use them they're kinda for beginners, most of them are too aggressive and it's obviously not working for you, recommend go back to PPM

Here's a quick example, I grew this Bud
View attachment 1038296using these two nutrients and nothing else
View attachment 1038297 They're still the only nutrients I use in veg and I fed it via ppm according to plant size and needs, which is what I recommend to you, hope this helps

I didn't get started with the charts. I was feeding originally at 600 ppm. Went to 700ppm. Overtime they started turning into what we see now. So I assumed something was amiss. I read the chart and began questioning what I was doing wrong. I've read other people's nutrients use 2tbsp and they get high ppm out of it . So why does biobizz nutrients take around 150ml to reach 600ppm? Unless the pen is messed up, I'll need to find out after purchasing another & if the pen is right ill do a small video on it so you can all see how much we pour in to reach 600 ppm etc

I can't be precise how much we poured in but it was alot lol & lovely photo

This will help explain why I feel ppm is not a good unit of measurement with organics. It cannot be compared to the ppm values we all understand from inorganic nutrients for the reasons discussed in this link. Its not totally useless but not exactly reliable. And IMO organics should be fed half dose like any fert and adjusted based on plant response

Redirect Notice

Thanks I'll give it a read :)

 

[FourthCity]

I didn't get started with the charts. I was feeding originally at 600 ppm. Went to 700ppm. Overtime they started turning into what we see now. So I assumed something was amiss. I read the chart and began questioning what I was doing wrong. I've read other people's nutrients use 2tbsp and they get high ppm out of it . So why does biobizz nutrients take around 150ml to reach 600ppm? Unless the pen is messed up, I'll need to find out after purchasing another & if the pen is right ill do a small video on it so you can all see how much we pour in to reach 600 ppm etc

I can't be precise how much we poured in but it was alot lol & lovely photo




Thanks I'll give it a read :)

Get a blue lab truncheon for reading ppm, its accurate, rugged, and simple to read, I've had mine since 2007 and its only on the third set of batteries. As I've said before, I'm not a soil expert but I believe your issues are not from your ppms being high but that some unused nutrients were being left behind and gradually building up. If this was the case then it is possible that periodic flushing could have helped avoid buildups and allowed the plants to absorb more nutrients and reduce deficiencies.

Think of it like if every time you eat and leave a scrap of food on your plate it got saved and added to your next meal, it wouldn't take long before your meals start to look pretty unpalatable. This is similar to how the plants work, anything they cant eat will remain in the medium unless you do something to remove it and over time it gets increasingly difficult for the plant to pick out the nutrients it needs when its overwhelmed by nutrients its trying to avoid.

 

[iTurniGrow]

Get a blue lab truncheon for reading ppm, its accurate, rugged, and simple to read, I've had mine since 2007 and its only on the third set of batteries. As I've said before, I'm not a soil expert but I believe your issues are not from your ppms being high but that some unused nutrients were being left behind and gradually building up. If this was the case then it is possible that periodic flushing could have helped avoid buildups and allowed the plants to absorb more nutrients and reduce deficiencies.

Think of it like if every time you eat and leave a scrap of food on your plate it got saved and added to your next meal, it wouldn't take long before your meals start to look pretty unpalatable. This is similar to how the plants work, anything they cant eat will remain in the medium unless you do something to remove it and over time it gets increasingly difficult for the plant to pick out the nutrients it needs when its overwhelmed by nutrients its trying to avoid.

I also thought of that. I'll look into that item, it's true we only flushed with 5L, the same amount we fed with until the last watering I upped it to 10L just incase it was build up. It's our first time . So not sure how much water everyone uses to flush.

Sorry everyone for being all over th place on this, bare with me I'll get there

 

[FourthCity]

I also thought of that. I'll look into that item, it's true we only flushed with 5L, the same amount we fed with until the last watering I upped it to 10L just incase it was build up. It's our first time . So not sure how much water everyone uses to flush.

Sorry everyone for being all over th place on this, bare with me I'll get there

You need to measure the ppm of the runoff to determine how much to feed and flush. If the ppm of the runoff is rising above what you are feeding the plant then it is a good indication that the plant needs to be flushed and/or the ppms of the feed need to be reduced. Likewise, if the ppm of the runoff is much lower than what you are feeding then there may be room to increase the nutrients.

 

[Aqua Man]

You need to measure the ppm of the runoff to determine how much to feed and flush. If the ppm of the runoff is rising above what you are feeding the plant then it is a good indication that the plant needs to be flushed and/or the ppms of the feed need to be reduced. Likewise, if the ppm of the runoff is much lower than what you are feeding then there may be room to increase the nutrients.

You can't (shouldn't) use ppm for organics. Its not the same.

 

[FourthCity]

You can't (shouldn't) use ppm for organics. Its not the same.

Organics nutrients cant cause burn or lockout with high ppms in soil? I am admittedly a hydro guy but I thought regulating the nutrient to water ratio was a necessary and important part of all growing methods.

 

[Frankster]

This will help explain why I feel ppm is not a good unit of measurement with organics. It cannot be compared to the ppm values we all understand from inorganic nutrients for the reasons discussed in this link. Its not totally useless but not exactly reliable. And IMO organics should be fed half dose like any fert and adjusted based on plant response

Redirect Notice

The plants still look great BTW, don't let this little bump the road get you down.

Bingo.
Rich, healthy organic soil is more complex than artificially fertilized soil or hydroponic solutions. The nutrients are stored in more complex molecules than with artificial fertilizers, that are released slowly over time. EC meters work by measuring the electrical conductivity of salts in water; organic nutrients haven’t yet broken down into simple salts.

Just got dibasic potassium phospahate in today, have to share it here because it's possibly relevant to this situation. (potassium, phosphorus and PH related).

I'm going to formulate my own base formula from this stuff, specifically for late flowering. 2 formulas of the same exact chemical, (there's probably a word for this, but I forget it) one is basic, the other is acidic. If I get my ratio's correct, I'll be able to correct the pH while maintaining purity.

Make two 5 mM solutions, one of the K2HPO4 (dibasic potassium phosphate) and one of the KH2PO4 (monobasic potassium phosphate). The pH of the dibasic solution will be alkaline (around pH 8), and the monobasic solution will be weakly acidic (around 6.5, maybe 6.8)

 

[Aqua Man]

The plants still look great BTW, don't let this little bump the road get you down.

Bingo.
Rich, healthy organic soil is more complex than artificially fertilized soil or hydroponic solutions. The nutrients are stored in more complex molecules than with artificial fertilizers, that are released slowly over time. EC meters work by measuring the electrical conductivity of salts in water; organic nutrients haven’t yet broken down into simple salts.

Just got dibasic potassium phospahate in today, have to share it here because it's possibly relevant to this situation. (potassium, phosphorus and PH related).

I'm going to formulate my own base formula from this stuff, specifically for late flowering. 2 formulas of the same exact chemical, (there's probably a word for this, but I forget it) one is basic, the other is acidic. If I get my ratio's correct, I'll be able to correct the pH while maintaining purity.

Make two 5 mM solutions, one of the K2HPO4 (dibasic potassium phosphate) and one of the KH2PO4 (monobasic potassium phosphate). The pH of the dibasic solution will be alkaline (around pH 8), and the monobasic solution will be weakly acidic (around 6.5, maybe 6.8)

Exactly

 

[Frankster]

I didn't get started with the charts. I was feeding originally at 600 ppm. Went to 700ppm. Overtime they started turning into what we see now. So I assumed something was amiss. I read the chart and began questioning what I was doing wrong. I've read other people's nutrients use 2tbsp and they get high ppm out of it . So why does biobizz nutrients take around 150ml to reach 600ppm? Unless the pen is messed up, I'll need to find out after purchasing another & if the pen is right ill do a small video on it so you can all see how much we pour in to reach 600 ppm etc

I can't be precise how much we poured in but it was alot lol & lovely photo




Thanks I'll give it a read :)

Yea, I think you just got a little to concentrated here and Aqua as usual has the best solution here, by going half strength and checking your pH runoff. I would suggest even possibly dialing down the light a bit, (some, not a bunch) until they respond and your back on track.

 

[Frankster]

I'm thinking it confuses them as bigger molecules, (a bunch of salts conjugated together) one way or the other, because of weak covalent bonds holding them in the fluid, and it probably looks like all one molecule to the meter. (or perhaps, the reverse)

Something along those lines is my guess. I know for sure that boiling points and freezing points of a liquid are hugely impacted by molecules molar mass and molecule sizes matter (big time). All this stuff is tied closely to PPM and how much solute can be dissolved into water at any given temperature.

My guess is that the meters are simply counting free hydrogen ions.

Edit: after looking it up, that's exactly what it does.

What is a pH Meter and how does it Work?

pH is a measurable parameter between the values of 0 and 14, provided the concentration of the solution does not exceed 1M.

www.azolifesciences.com

pH is a measurable parameter between the values of 0 and 14, provided the concentration of the solution does not exceed 1M. Solutions with a pH<7 are acidic, whereas those with a pH>7 are alkaline. A pH meter is a device that measures the changes in the activity of hydrogen ions in solution.

 

[FourthCity]

You need to measure the ppm of the runoff to determine how much to feed and flush. If the ppm of the runoff is rising above what you are feeding the plant then it is a good indication that the plant needs to be flushed and/or the ppms of the feed need to be reduced. Likewise, if the ppm of the runoff is much lower than what you are feeding then there may be room to increase the nutrients.

You can't (shouldn't) use ppm for organics. Its not the same.

And IMO organics should be fed half dose like any fert and adjusted based on plant response

When you say "adjusted based on plant response" do you just mean visually and disregard any feedback that can be seen in ppms?

Yea, I think you just got a little to concentrated here and Aqua as usual has the best solution here, by going half strength and checking your pH runoff. I would suggest even possibly dialing down the light a bit, (some, not a bunch) until they respond and your back on track.

He just said not to check the runoff... or at least not the ppms. Im not sure what else to look at other than ph, are you saying dial down the ph or the nutrients? I can see why the op is getting confused here.

 

[Aqua Man]

When you say "adjusted based on plant response" do you just mean visually and disregard any feedback that can be seen in ppms?

He just said not to check the runoff... or at least not the ppms. Im not sure what else to look at other than ph, are you saying dial down the ph or the nutrients? I can see why the op is getting confused here.

Yep just check ph and pay attention to soil microbes and conditions as they are extremely important for organic grows.

Can use ppm to see which way its trending but not so much to tell the nutrient availability.

To accurately understand the feed in the soil you would need soil tests done like they do in farming