THCFarmer.com
121,280 Members Log In Register
Log In Register

Interveinal necrosis & rust spots. Diagnosis help. Teros12 & Athena Pro Line

  • Thread starter Thread starter flipflop64
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users Tagged users None

Interveinal necrosis & rust spots. Diagnosis help. Teros12 & Athena Pro Line

flipflop64 67 Replies 10,423 Views
Page 2 of 4 · Replies 21–40 of 68
#21
flipflop64 said:
View attachment 2036410

You can see light distance in this picture.
Sadly its a couple days old and not showing the necrosis.
Click to expand...
lovely canopy :-)

850ppfd start of flower i presume, is too much, 650ppfd with co2 is plenty for the stretch phase. at week 2-3 flower slowly get to 800-850.
if you suspect its a fertilizer lockout/burning lower ec to 0.5 in the res and do a nice flush drain to waste than right after the flush do a feed at 2.5EC for starting weeks of flower maybe.
 
#22
Also if all of them are showing the same signs than its something that everyone is getting equaly either light, media ph, nutrients and/or environment.
 
#23
What I would do in this order, one variable exclusion at a time, so for next runs you nail it and get it dialed.

Raise lights to lower intensity wait a week it got better or didn't got worse ? you found the problem
got worse?

Flush and adjust strength wait a week, got better ? found the problem
Got worse still?

Must have to do with environmental parameters for said cultivar for sure.

Environment should be always checked tho, every single day, but as you have sensors i'm sure you check it :-)
 
#24
Trash_2002 said:
if you suspect its a fertilizer lockout/burning lower ec to 0.5 in the res and do a nice flush drain to waste than right after the flush do a feed at 2.5EC for starting weeks of flower maybe.
Click to expand...
I actually already flushed to ~1EC and run 2.5 after that. The plants that are showing the worst signs are actually the shortest. They might now be as ready as the other cultivars. They showed a slight tipburn a couple days/weeks ago. Thats basically how it started and why i suspected nutrient burn/issues. I will lower ppfd to 650 and see if it helps.
 
#26
Trash_2002 said:
What I would do in this order, one variable exclusion at a time, so for next runs you nail it and get it dialed.

Raise lights to lower intensity wait a week it got better or didn't got worse ? you found the problem
got worse?

Flush and adjust strength wait a week, got better ? found the problem
Got worse still?

Must have to do with environmental parameters for said cultivar for sure.

Environment should be always checked tho, every single day, but as you have sensors i'm sure you check it :-)
Click to expand...

flipflop64 said:
This is related to high light levels.
Click to expand...

i suspect that too tho, you already excluded one variable tho, it progressed after the flush?
 
#27
Trash_2002 said:
i suspect that too tho, you already excluded one variable tho, it progressed after the flush?
Click to expand...
Yea it did progress. I might try one more time as i felt like it did get a bit better after it in my second room. The second room has same light levels but isnt as bad. Plants are also a bit further in flower (week 2) and are getting worse much slower. I will post more pictures tomorrow.
 
#28
Screenshot 20230908 195319

Light levels are the same. This rooms progression is slower and not as extreme. It got bad after not watering enough (very high EC). Also showed tip burn and clawing.

The problem is even after flushing with 0EC, the media gets back to the usual high 4-6EC after reintroducing fertilizer.
 
#30
flipflop64 said:
I'll try another flush and lowering EC to 2.5
Also lowering light levels
I also saw some clawing/knittering of upper leaves
Click to expand...
will leave this here for ya, good starting set points for led with co2, maximizing/optimizing stomata opening for the whole cycle.
Capture


I hope you get dialed ASAP, they seem to be healthy and willing to bounce back fast tho.
Blue Box REALLY important too ;-)
Cheers!
 
#32
flipflop64 said:
This is super useful. Ive been underestimating LEDs for a longer time now. I hope i learned this time 😅. Thanks! I'll keep y'all updated
Click to expand...
i'm on the same boat switched from HPS 3 months ago and getting humbled by its power, but the quality damnnnn good stuff LOL
 
#34
Im with trash though on this because light plays a part in photosynphesis, it effects nutrient uptake and such, so a bigger plant can handle more light and if a plant has more nutrients. This is why sometimes you see plants bud leafs yellow at the top as the light depleates nutrients out of the leaf.
 
#35
Itscheese94 said:
Im with trash though on this because light plays a part in photosynphesis, it effects nutrient uptake and such, so a bigger plant can handle more light and if a plant has more nutrients. This is why sometimes you see plants bud leafs yellow at the top as the light depleates nutrients out of the leaf.
Click to expand...
Im in trash though means you're not sure? Sorry im not english native speaker
 
#36
With a cannabis plant, you can't say for sure if it's 1 problem, as there are so many variables. What I can say is that you're feeding way too high. does not help ph being low to.
 
#39
In my view if two companies do two different
10-10-10 fertilizers

One recommend 1.5ec
The other 3.0ec

One must be using pure more available salts
Or the other wants you to use double the product.

There's no other way around heheheh

But in coco in certain CO2/vpd facilities with certain cultivars they do push to 2.5EC max in peak flower Tho. And not using Athena.
 
Page 2 of 4 · Replies 21–40 of 68
Back
Top Bottom