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Strange necrosis and slow growth ... Need help ^_^

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Strange necrosis and slow growth ... Need help ^_^

bruhduh420 15 Replies 2,260 Views
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bruhduh420

bruhduh420

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Hey guys !
I get strange yellowing and decay in the lower foliage of the plants ... At first I thought I lack some Nitrogen, but the leaves are having some strange necrosis . It`s affecting the lower leaves and the mid positioned fan leaves ... Any ideas ? Am I having fungus or pests infection(even tho I checked the leaves under microscope I found none...) ? I think some of my fertilizer( BioBizz stored in the fridge but ca. 2 years old already and used) may be causing the issues, so I`ll ditch it for some HESI just to be sure. I`m growing in soil 50%/coco20%/worm compost 20%+10% Perlite mix, using mix of BioBizz and Hesi + Mykos and TNc Myccorplus as amendments , I don`t PH my water (RO Water + CalMag+ Silica). Any help will be appreciated !
 

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Looks like potassium in the photo with the plant.
 
I thought so too , so I added some bloom into the feeding. The problem is that the plant now show signs of stress and necrosis on lower foliage.
Some die back on lowers is kinda normal, usually due to a few things like air flow, lack of light penetration ect. Maybe up your cal mag a bit too. but I’m not a cocoa guy, full disclosure. I won’t hurt.
 
Some die back on lowers is kinda normal, usually due to a few things like air flow, lack of light penetration ect. Maybe up your cal mag a bit too. but I’m not a cocoa guy, full disclosure. I won’t hurt.
Thanks for the tips. I`ll add some fans on for the lower foliage. I`m currently "brewing" a worm compost tea so I can help my girls recover faster. I was worried that they are sick. Just threw the old BioBizz fertilizers... some of them had small "lumbs" on the bottom and were somewhat oily ...if that makes any sence. I still have few more organic fertilizers from BioBizz any idea how can I test if they are still alright to use (all were stored 24/7 in a fridge). Regards !
 
Thanks for the tips. I`ll add some fans on for the lower foliage. I`m currently "brewing" a worm compost tea so I can help my girls recover faster. I was worried that they are sick. Just threw the old BioBizz fertilizers... some of them had small "lumbs" on the bottom and were somewhat oily ...if that makes any sence. I still have few more organic fertilizers from BioBizz any idea how can I test if they are still alright to use (all were stored 24/7 in a fridge). Regards !
My homie @Itscheese94 rolls biobizz if I remember correctly. He will be on later. Homie is legit.
 
I`m getting some really strange yellowing/death leafes in the middle of the foliage . I assumed CalMag def. Any suggestions ?
 

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I`m getting some really strange yellowing/death leafes in the middle of the foliage . I assumed CalMag def. Any suggestions ?
May I ask why are you using RO? Your tap is in what EC range?

Also how much and witch fertilizer and how often?
 
May I ask why are you using RO? Your tap is in what EC range?

Also how much and witch fertilizer and how often?
My tap is around 7,6 PH and 0.12 ppt > 120 ppm = 0.24 EC. I fertilize every 3 days (around 75% of the recommended dose). The reason I`m using RO is because of the heavy chloride/chlorin in my tap water. When I use tap water for my humidifiers there is white dust sticking to the side of the tent (vapporized chlorin/chloride or any other additive they put in the water I assume)...with RO I don`t have this problem anymore.
 
My tap is around 7,6 PH and 0.12 ppt > 120 ppm = 0.24 EC. I fertilize every 3 days (around 75% of the recommended dose). The reason I`m using RO is because of the heavy chloride/chlorin in my tap water. When I use tap water for my humidifiers there is white dust sticking to the side of the tent (vapporized chlorin/chloride or any other additive they put in the water I assume)...with RO I don`t have this problem anymore.
Use RO for the humidifier, but I see no reason to use it for the plants EC 0.24 is not really hard water, chlorine evaporates in 24-48h on its own, just let it sit in the res, if you bubble it in 12h the chlorine is gone. I say this because I've seen people having problems using RO for no good reason and problems disappeared after they got back to use tap water for their plants.

Cheers.
 
Use RO for the humidifier, but I see no reason to use it for the plants EC 0.24 is not really hard water, chlorine evaporates in 24-48h on its own, just let it sit in the res, if you bubble it in 12h the chlorine is gone. I say this because I've seen people having problems using RO for no good reason and problems disappeared after they got back to use tap water for their plants.

Cheers.
I will try using tap water (bubbles for 12+ hours ofc) from now on , let`s see how the ladies will like it :)
 
The reason I`m using RO is because of the heavy chloride/chlorin in my tap water. When I use tap water for my humidifiers there is white dust sticking to the side of the tent (vapporized chlorin/chloride or any other additive they put in the water I assume)
the white dust is due to minerals in your water, chlorine and chloramine don't cause that. That's why you want tap for plants and ro for humidifier (assuming your numbers aren't ridiculous, (most aren't))

how often do you water? Are you going by the plants or a day/time? do you wait for plants to droop?

also are you mixing nutes in the correct order? Si, cal, base nutes, additives and boosters last
 
the white dust is due to minerals in your water, chlorine and chloramine don't cause that. That's why you want tap for plants and ro for humidifier (assuming your numbers aren't ridiculous, (most aren't))

how often do you water? Are you going by the plants or a day/time? do you wait for plants to droop?

also are you mixing nutes in the correct order? Si, cal, base nutes, additives and boosters last
I`ll start watering with my "bubbled" tap water from now on. Usually I forget to add Si :D ...but if I`ll always add it 1st if I can, then CalMag, BioBizz Grow/Fishmix and/or Hesi TNT, then hesi powerzyme and I end with General Hydroponics B Essentials. I try to water every ~4-5 days, because I usually try to avoid overwatering the ladies. Before I add any water to the soil I dip my finger and check if the 1st inch or 2 of the medium is dry, then I`ll hydrate it Usually at different time of the day(when I have time). I don`t wait for my plants to droop, before watering tho ! If I see any sickness in my ladies , I bubble a wormtea for 24+ hours and pour the new microbes until the soil is saturated(even oversaturated) and I get a decent run-off. I see that my plants are stressed for some reason(new growth is slow and leafes are not spread opened but "thin" and "closed" . Temps are around 28-30 degrees with LED on and 20-24 with lights out, humidity at 55-65% and there is enough FAE and fans in the tent.
 
Just got my CalMag. Dropped a thick layer of worm castings on top of the soil and hydrated it with tap water/filtered water + NPK, Silica, CalMag, and Essentials. Lets hope the ladies recover quick. Are those Na and Mg deficiencies I see ?
 

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