Started 2nd grow. 1 plant looks good the other needs help. Advice needed!

[BigBUDS420420]

I just put these 2 in the ground 1 week ago on 04.15. I'm using a new growing medium this time (40%soil, 40% coco, 20%perlite). My northern lights strain (2nd pic) is doing great while my other strain stinking rich(1st pic) seems to be having some issues. I started the lights at about 18 inches away from the plants and have since moved the lights to 30 inches away from the plants (lights are at half strength). I've only watered once 4 days after putting them in the ground with PH balanced water (no nutes yet). My question is what is causing this and how do I fix it? Should I start watering with the nutes I have (pictures attached)? The instructions say I can use it on seedlings but I'm not sure. Also how often do you water a soil/coco mix? I tried to wait for it to dry out but it has stayed moist the entire time before the 1st watering. I read online to water it every other day to twice a day which I think may be too much and cause overwatering. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

 

[Bdubs]

I’ll start by saying 86 degrees is pretty hot. But you couple that up with 1.95vpd and you’re looking at taxing roots to do all the drinking. If you want to run that temp and humidity, you need to mist them 2 times. Right after lights off and an hour before lights on.

Best bet is to lower your temps. It would help to increase humidity and get your VPD down to .8-1.0 if possible. Which means at 54 humidity you need to be at about 65 degrees to be at optimal VPD. Stepping up humidity to achieve that and remain at the 80s in temps you need 75 humidity.

They are short and stalky, so your light is adequate. But make sure it isn’t too intense of light. When she doesn’t get tall she focuses structure. Not getting tall or lanky means she senses the light is appropriate distance/intensity and stops stretching for more light.

But it is possible light is too intense. If light is too intense she will stay short and low, but if she starts making her next set of leafs, nodes will be tight and upward growth slowed as she focuses making new sets and nodes. If the light is too intense she will burn and stay stunted.

If you lower temps to 75-80 and no more, and keep humidity around 60s, they will love it.

I personally never run seedling stage with a dome. I control VPD and lighting. I have never tried to push my plants to grow faster with increased temps. It just isn’t needed and means you need higher humidity upwards of 70%+, to run high temps.

They will grow a lot more healthy if you focus VPD and don’t worry about high temps and “faster” growth. Because in your case, it is uncontrolled and the heat is stripping all moisture from the plant. Drying and crisping up. Using reserves to fuel water demand, resulting in dry crisp leaves as she cannot supply enough through the weak root structure at such a young age. These high temp veg attempts increase room for mistakes or damage to the plant. The one with issues, has a weaker root structure. But don’t rule out that the one “doing good” isnt stressing out also just able to uptake more from better root development than the other.

You need a dome to run that heat. Or increase humidity substantially. Or reduce temps.

 

[Zill]

Holy cow! That weak salt solution they call iguana juice - grow costs $70/L!! Amazing. Such a rip off.

 

[Bdubs]

If you are using nutrients already, they could be nutrient burning as well. You need first set of true leaves, 3 finger before you administer nutrients. If you are giving proper super low doses of nutrients and the cotyledons are fading, you have other issues. As the cotyledons should be luscious green all the time with supplemental nutrients as the plant doesn’t need those reserves to power the first part of growth. So if cotyledons are fading burning with nutrients, she is drying up and taking the moisture reserves from them. Either in the form of root burn or using reserves for moisture.

 

[Bdubs]

Holy cow! That weak salt solution they call iguana juice - grow costs $70/L!! Amazing. Such a rip off.

Lol. It’s appears to be a weak solution to compliment and maintain a consistent nutrient replenishment to the soil, to help balance Ryzosphere anions and cilates. “Weak” nutrient solutions may have a greater purpose if it is an all in one solution. It’s all about the balance of the rhysosphere. Regardless of what you cram down its throat, if you disrupt the rhyzosphere you get a less healthy plant. That nutrient has a proper amount of Natural, Organic compounds in it. It has all the good things the soil needs from start to finish as a one bottle solution to replenish the soil and maintain natural amounts of npk. Not to be used to overfeed but to maintain the soil. I’d give that to my garden plants monthly to keep npk optimal.

 

[Zill]

Make it yourself. Nothing in that bottle is worth $79/L. You’re paying for water.

And the claims are BS. Tell me - why is vitamin B included? What is the benefit? There is no benefit.

The Truth about Vitamin B1 for Plants

Vitamin B1 fertilizer does not reduce transplant shock. Buying it for plants is a waste of money. Find out more about this gardening myth.

www.gardenmyths.com

Don’t take this personally but, bullshit baffles brains every time.

 

[Bdubs]

I’ll, you are so far off base with the OP. It’s not even funny.

 

[BigBUDS420420]

I’ll start by saying 86 degrees is pretty hot. But you couple that up with 1.95vpd and you’re looking at taxing roots to do all the drinking. If you want to run that temp and humidity, you need to mist them 2 times. Right after lights off and an hour before lights on.

Best bet is to lower your temps. It would help to increase humidity and get your VPD down to .8-1.0 if possible. Which means at 54 humidity you need to be at about 65 degrees to be at optimal VPD. Stepping up humidity to achieve that and remain at the 80s in temps you need 75 humidity.

They are short and stalky, so your light is adequate. But make sure it isn’t too intense of light. When she doesn’t get tall she focuses structure. Not getting tall or lanky means she senses the light is appropriate distance/intensity and stops stretching for more light.

But it is possible light is too intense. If light is too intense she will stay short and low, but if she starts making her next set of leafs, nodes will be tight and upward growth slowed as she focuses making new sets and nodes. If the light is too intense she will burn and stay stunted.

If you lower temps to 75-80 and no more, and keep humidity around 60s, they will love it.

I personally never run seedling stage with a dome. I control VPD and lighting. I have never tried to push my plants to grow faster with increased temps. It just isn’t needed and means you need higher humidity upwards of 70%+, to run high temps.

They will grow a lot more healthy if you focus VPD and don’t worry about high temps and “faster” growth. Because in your case, it is uncontrolled and the heat is stripping all moisture from the plant. Drying and crisping up. Using reserves to fuel water demand, resulting in dry crisp leaves as she cannot supply enough through the weak root structure at such a young age. These high temp veg attempts increase room for mistakes or damage to the plant. The one with issues, has a weaker root structure. But don’t rule out that the one “doing good” isnt stressing out also just able to uptake more from better root development than the other.

You need a dome to run that heat. Or increase humidity substantially. Or reduce temps.

Thank you for the info. I'll get the temp lowered in there. I figured that had something to do with it. I'm not trying to rush the growth it's just really hot in the part of the world I'm in. I'll start cranking that AC to get it around the desired temperature. Seems to be the easiest solution to this problem. Thanks again!

 

[Zill]

I’ll, you are so far off base with the OP. It’s not even funny.

I’ll bet the folks at OG Organics would like to speak with you.

 

[BigBUDS420420]

If you are using nutrients already, they could be nutrient burning as well. You need first set of true leaves, 3 finger before you administer nutrients. If you are giving proper super low doses of nutrients and the cotyledons are fading, you have other issues. As the cotyledons should be luscious green all the time with supplemental nutrients as the plant doesn’t need those reserves to power the first part of growth. So if cotyledons are fading burning with nutrients, she is drying up and taking the moisture reserves from them. Either in the form of root burn or using reserves for moisture.

Luckily I haven't started nutes yet. Just tap water adjusted to 6 PH. Thanks again for this info. The bottle says to use it from a seedling but I knew that didn't seem right. I'll wait til they are a little more established to use the nutes I have.

 

[BigBUDS420420]

Holy cow! That weak salt solution they call iguana juice - grow costs $70/L!! Amazing. Such a rip off.

Lol my last grow I didn't use any nutes during the veg phase. Gonna give these nutes a try and next go around might try something different to see what I get the best results with. Thanks for the info!