Farmers... Reaching week 3 of flower, is this light burn or nutrient deficiency?

[Ras_d]

this gal is kosher kush in a 5 gallon bucket with mix of soil and coco in a 60cm 60 cm 140cm height tent single plant with a 150w 301h led light ... which is a bit short perhaps the distance between light and the canopy is the cause of yellow leaves, but this is the highest distance that I can do in this tent, is there any solution? However, I'm still not very sure whether this is because of light burn or not...

Please genius farmers point me to the right direction.. thank you..

the distance between lamp and the canopy is about 20cm, and the light is 100% power on of 150w 301h led...

These r the leaves i tear down

 

[BB22]

Looks like they’re being roasted

I would dial the light way back

 

[Ras_d]

Looks like they’re being roasted

I would dial the light way back

is there a ppfd reading that i should aim to??

 

[Ras_d]

Looks like they’re being roasted

I would dial the light way back

Hi farmer.. u know I'm a greedy guy who aim for a fat harvest I just dial back the ppfd on the highest region from about 2200 to about 1200.. is this ok?

 

[ArtfulCodger]

To me, these look over-lit (taco-ing leaves, purpling in stems), over-watered (speedbumps on all the leaves), and over-fed (clawing, tip and edge burn). I don't know what you're doing for water or nutes, so I can't speak to those, but even 1200 ppfd is a ton of light if you aren't supplementing CO2 and/or don't have your watering and feeding dialed in. Plant height is the enemy, indoors, and it's worse the shorter our tents are. Lot of ways to grow, of course, but in a short tent like that, I would train early and often for width and to keep the height short. I try to err on the side of "not enough" with all of my inputs. We can always add more, but when we over-do it, it's harder to cut back.

 

[Mikedin]

To me, these look over-lit (taco-ing leaves, purpling in stems), over-watered (speedbumps on all the leaves), and over-fed (clawing, tip and edge burn). I don't know what you're doing for water or nutes, so I can't speak to those, but even 1200 ppfd is a ton of light if you aren't supplementing CO2 and/or don't have your watering and feeding dialed in. Plant height is the enemy, indoors, and it's worse the shorter our tents are. Lot of ways to grow, of course, but in a short tent like that, I would train early and often for width and to keep the height short. I try to err on the side of "not enough" with all of my inputs. We can always add more, but when we over-do it, it's harder to cut back.

Agreed I’m running about 700ppfd atm never really go over 900 max if the plants can handle it

 

[Ras_d]

To me, these look over-lit (taco-ing leaves, purpling in stems), over-watered (speedbumps on all the leaves), and over-fed (clawing, tip and edge burn). I don't know what you're doing for water or nutes, so I can't speak to those, but even 1200 ppfd is a ton of light if you aren't supplementing CO2 and/or don't have your watering and feeding dialed in. Plant height is the enemy, indoors, and it's worse the shorter our tents are. Lot of ways to grow, of course, but in a short tent like that, I would train early and often for width and to keep the height short. I try to err on the side of "not enough" with all of my inputs. We can always add more, but when we over-do it, it's harder to cut back.

Agreed I’m running about 700ppfd atm never really go over 900 max if the plants can handle it

Thanks for your advice, it's been a great help to a newbie.. I feed organically.. with organic fertilizer and compost tea.. i did not control myself on the amount because i thought i would never go wrong on organic fertilizers.. but seems like i need to cut down the amount a bit..

 

[Ras_d]

To me, these look over-lit (taco-ing leaves, purpling in stems), over-watered (speedbumps on all the leaves), and over-fed (clawing, tip and edge burn). I don't know what you're doing for water or nutes, so I can't speak to those, but even 1200 ppfd is a ton of light if you aren't supplementing CO2 and/or don't have your watering and feeding dialed in. Plant height is the enemy, indoors, and it's worse the shorter our tents are. Lot of ways to grow, of course, but in a short tent like that, I would train early and often for width and to keep the height short. I try to err on the side of "not enough" with all of my inputs. We can always add more, but when we over-do it, it's harder to cut back.

Agreed I’m running about 700ppfd atm never really go over 900 max if the plants can handle it

I just set my ppfd of the toppest few budsites not exceed 900, due to limited high some of the budsites on the edges and corner's ppfd reading is 100 -200.. my light coverage for the canopy is not spread evenly due to too close to the lamp..

Is there anything that I can do the get this fixed? I know it's the 3rd week of flowering.. or What i should do to make it better next time??

Btw, 700-900 ppfd for the ideal in flowering stage, what's the ideal ppfd for vegetative stage and seedling stage?

 

[RootFarmer]

When the leafvtip claws, it's a good indicator of excess nitrogen. It can be antagonistic to potassium. Damage at the bottom looks like a possible potassium deficiency. Those two factors combined seem to most likely explain the overall appearance. Have you been giving it extra nitrogen or calmag to try to green it up? If so you should probably discontinue doing that. Feeding your plant something to fix an issue without knowing for certain what is actually going on is more likely to make matters worse. I see some red stems also. The tendency might be to assume a phosporous deficiency. However, excess nitrogen can cause that too. Whenever something doesn't look right i Ialways check pH first. It can fluctuate a bit throughout the day as the plant takes up different nutrients. Sometimes that can temporarily lock out some elements. I grow organic but I always keep an inorganic micronutrient and calmag on hand for foliar testing. If plant doesn't respond to the treatment then I know that isn't the issue and you don't end adding something to your soil that is needed and possibly detrimental. Does that make sense?

 

[ArtfulCodger]

I just set my ppfd of the toppest few budsites not exceed 900, due to limited high some of the budsites on the edges and corner's ppfd reading is 100 -200.. my light coverage for the canopy is not spread evenly due to too close to the lamp..

Is there anything that I can do the get this fixed? I know it's the 3rd week of flowering.. or What i should do to make it better next time??

Btw, 700-900 ppfd for the ideal in flowering stage, what's the ideal ppfd for vegetative stage and seedling stage?

Just my take: a light meter cannot tell you if your light intensity is correct. Your plants can. When the leaves are flat, level, and a uniform shade of vibrant green, they're digging how much light they're getting. When they're taco-ing, the edges are curling, there's twisting, or any other deformation of shape, and if you see any color other than green, they're probably over-lit.

 

[Mikedin]

I just set my ppfd of the toppest few budsites not exceed 900, due to limited high some of the budsites on the edges and corner's ppfd reading is 100 -200.. my light coverage for the canopy is not spread evenly due to too close to the lamp..

Is there anything that I can do the get this fixed? I know it's the 3rd week of flowering.. or What i should do to make it better next time??

Btw, 700-900 ppfd for the ideal in flowering stage, what's the ideal ppfd for vegetative stage and seedling stage?

You can pull the tops down to make space i just did it myself light is at 6’ and my plants were up to 63” bonsai’d the top branches and gained near 5-6” of head space so i could go back up to my 900 over the rest of the plant
Pics before tops were brought down

My edges are lower too, but the higher you can keep the light power and larger distance to light the better the penetration through the canopy

Top after the highest mains were brought down

What it looks like today a week after bending

 

[Ras_d]

You can pull the tops down to make space i just did it myself light is at 6’ and my plants were up to 63” bonsai’d the top branches and gained near 5-6” of head space so i could go back up to my 900 over the rest of the plant
Pics before tops were brought down

My edges are lower too, but the higher you can keep the light power and larger distance to light the better the penetration through the canopy
View attachment 2213390View attachment 2213391

Top after the highest mains were brought down
View attachment 2213392
What it looks like today a week after bending
View attachment 2213393

Wow... these pics explains alot.. thx for sharing .. appreciated it..

 

[Ras_d]

To me, these look over-lit (taco-ing leaves, purpling in stems), over-watered (speedbumps on all the leaves), and over-fed (clawing, tip and edge burn). I don't know what you're doing for water or nutes, so I can't speak to those, but even 1200 ppfd is a ton of light if you aren't supplementing CO2 and/or don't have your watering and feeding dialed in. Plant height is the enemy, indoors, and it's worse the shorter our tents are. Lot of ways to grow, of course, but in a short tent like that, I would train early and often for width and to keep the height short. I try to err on the side of "not enough" with all of my inputs. We can always add more, but when we over-do it, it's harder to cut back.

When the leafvtip claws, it's a good indicator of excess nitrogen. It can be antagonistic to potassium. Damage at the bottom looks like a possible potassium deficiency. Those two factors combined seem to most likely explain the overall appearance. Have you been giving it extra nitrogen or calmag to try to green it up? If so you should probably discontinue doing that. Feeding your plant something to fix an issue without knowing for certain what is actually going on is more likely to make matters worse. I see some red stems also. The tendency might be to assume a phosporous deficiency. However, excess nitrogen can cause that too. Whenever something doesn't look right i Ialways check pH first. It can fluctuate a bit throughout the day as the plant takes up different nutrients. Sometimes that can temporarily lock out some elements. I grow organic but I always keep an inorganic micronutrient and calmag on hand for foliar testing. If plant doesn't respond to the treatment then I know that isn't the issue and you don't end adding something to your soil that is needed and possibly detrimental. Does that make sense?

Bro.. this is my recipe:

I grow my girls organically, now I feed my girls with compost tea,

2-3 scoops of worm castings about 200-300g
200 ml of liquid fish meal
1 tsp of kelp meal
50 g of bone powder
50 g of microbe fertilizer
50 g of organic fertilizer

I brew these into 10 L water and feed 4 of 3 gallon pot + 1 5 gallon pot.. which my i use 1 gallon pot with soil with seedling , when I change my 3 gallon pot I use coco coir to cover the soil ... which the centre is soil..

I feed the combination of above tea brew left overs on my pot.. then i feed them with compost tea..

I do this every week.. I also add 50g of bone powder, 50g of worm castings, 50g of organic fertilizer, 50g of microbe, and 10g of kelp when I transplant the gals from 1 gallon pot to 3 gallon pot...

However, looks like i am doing something wrong..

 

[GNick55]

Bro.. this is my recipe:

I grow my girls organically, now I feed my girls with compost tea,

2-3 scoops of worm castings about 200-300g
200 ml of liquid fish meal
1 tsp of kelp meal
50 g of bone powder
50 g of microbe fertilizer
50 g of organic fertilizer

I brew these into 10 L water and feed 4 of 3 gallon pot + 1 5 gallon pot.. which my i use 1 gallon pot with soil with seedling , when I change my 3 gallon pot I use coco coir to cover the soil ... which the centre is soil..

I feed the combination of above tea brew left overs on my pot.. then i feed them with compost tea..

I do this every week.. I also add 50g of bone powder, 50g of worm castings, 50g of organic fertilizer, 50g of microbe, and 10g of kelp when I transplant the gals from 1 gallon pot to 3 gallon pot...

However, looks like i am doing something wrong..

geezus murphy..
why do people over complicate things,..

this grow is already doomed,.. you need to back that light off to 30 inches at least, than you have to nurse your plants back to health and your around 3 weeks flowering,
good luck even with help,..

 

[ArtfulCodger]

Bro.. this is my recipe:

I'm a salt farmer (synthetic nutes in coco), so I can't comment on the specifics of your recipe, but I will suggest that the basic issue is that you're trying to light an organic media grow like it's hydro with supplemental CO2.

 

[Ras_d]

geezus murphy..
why do people over complicate things,..

this grow is already doomed,.. you need to back that light off to 30 inches at least, than you have to nurse your plants back to health and your around 3 weeks flowering,
good luck even with help,..

I'm not gonna have much healthy buds am i?

 

[Ras_d]

I'm a salt farmer (synthetic nutes in coco), so I can't comment on the specifics of your recipe, but I will suggest that the basic issue is that you're trying to light an organic media grow like it's hydro with supplemental CO2.

My next grow will be salts too, organic is too complicated.. thx for your reply

 

[GNick55]

I'm not gonna have much healthy buds am i?

you’ll need guidance and even than i doubt it’ll turn out ok weed to smoke,..
this your first grow?
and post more pics and of your grow area

 

[BearWater]

I'm not gonna have much healthy buds am i?

it looks like you could still pull some buds from this

 

[BearWater]

you’ll need guidance and even than i doubt it’ll turn out ok weed to smoke,..
this your first grow?
and post more pics and of your grow area

Would it be worth pressing or making hash out of it?