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THE TRAINWRECK. Brought to you by thcfarrmer…..

Dude! 😂😂✌️ Coffee Love. Lifeeeeeeeeee blood 🤤
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THE TRAINWRECK. Brought to you by thcfarrmer…..

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#40,002
Thatoneguyyouknow_ said:
Like I said if I give plants my water straight out of the faucet it will kill them, if I give them the straight RO water that comes out of the filter at about 5 pH.

It will also kill them


Not that I'm used to the way I'm running my water though I only bust the meter out if it seems like there's a problem in one of the root zones.

Because it is 100% completely totally out of the realm of possibility..... completely and totally impossible to tell the difference between a calcium and magnesium lockout and a calcium and magnesium deficiency without a pH meter and that is 100% a fact. Lol. Period. It isn't possible.

Almost every single beginner grower on this site has at least one plant that's locking out calcium and magnesium or hugely deficient in it one lol. And all these beginners are also saying Cal mag and PH meters are useless 🤣🤣🤣🤣

And unfortunately they will never ever know unless they test the drainage with an accurate pH meter, and will continue believing that those plants just have something wrong with them, instead of, ya know, rolling with objective reality lol.

If you're bottle feeding, organic or synthetic, and not using tap water filled with ph stabilizers from the treatment plants, or growing in hydro, or hell, 9/10 indoor growing methods, which are way more common with beginners, keeping your pH where it needs to be is actually the single most important part of growing cannabis indoors in a container. Another fact lol. If you actually mix something like Fox farm trio or GH Flora as per the directions into ro or distilled water, like 9/10 new growers do, your pH will sit between four and five and you will kill plants in 2 waterings flat.

Personally I've already set straight about a half a dozen brand new growers who got horrible pH advice that we're using bottle nutrients in Cocoa. Growers whos plants would be dead following the advice of the living soil growers on this forum lol

The consensus on plants that were dying from pH lockout bottle fed and coco, was that it's light burn 🤔🤣
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Correct, my PH out the tap is 7.3, plus I run peat which tents to like to rise and n ph into the 7.3 range on its own, so when using my organics only my PH runs higher as I only feed straight tap,

But I started messing with using it to my advantage, I run my normal organic amendments, but I started micro dosing with FF neuts, every feed either uses cal mag, flower duel, micro and bloom (together) or big bloom, each will drip PH hard especially when trying to use them all at once, but by separating and microdosong I use the liquids individually per feeding rotating, so my tap water actually runs more in the 6.2 range, after mixed, I keep just a old school dual proble PH meter in my soil in one of the plants, it averages about 6.8ish, but the plants love it (it’s been in the Frostette soil all run) the more I increase the synthetics (or even liquid organics) the lower it keeps my ph on its own, but I threw out my liquid testing pens about 2 years ago lol

But I never knock what works for people, I’ve been playing with this micro dose method for a bit and think I have it pretty well down now

By micro dose I mean I’m feeding between 1/3 to 1/2 max reccomended MINIMUM dosage

But yes I 100% agree my 7.3 tap with full recommended dose of FF neuts will throw you down to the low to mid 5’s

Just about mid week 6 day 45ish last ones of frostette I was pulling at day 60-65 , just starting to see a few fade leads starting yesterday just beginning to lighten
 

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#40,003
Mikedin said:
Correct, my PH out the tap is 7.3, plus I run peat which tents to like to rise and n ph into the 7.3 range on its own, so when using my organics only my PH runs higher as I only feed straight tap,

But I started messing with using it to my advantage, I run my normal organic amendments, but I started micro dosing with FF neuts, every feed either uses cal mag, flower duel, micro and bloom (together) or big bloom, each will drip PH hard especially when trying to use them all at once, but by separating and microdosong I use the liquids individually per feeding rotating, so my tap water actually runs more in the 6.2 range, after mixed, I keep just a old school dual proble PH meter in my soil in one of the plants, it averages about 6.8ish, but the plants love it (it’s been in the Frostette soil all run) the more I increase the synthetics (or even liquid organics) the lower it keeps my ph on its own, but I threw out my liquid testing pens about 2 years ago lol

But I never knock what works for people, I’ve been playing with this micro dose method for a bit and think I have it pretty well down now

By micro dose I mean I’m feeding between 1/3 to 1/2 max reccomended MINIMUM dosage

But yes I 100% agree my 7.3 tap with full recommended dose of FF neuts will throw you down to the low to mid 5’s

Just about mid week 6 day 45ish last ones of frostette I was pulling at day 60-65 , just starting to see a few fade leads starting yesterday just beginning to lighten
Click to expand...
indoors i feed a small amount of bottle synthetic feed with almost every watering. I rarely do high ppm feeds followed by PH adjusted water. And im getting used to my mix ratios enough that im pretty much nailing the PH spot on every time. Every now and then i still check it though. My water does weird things with its PH after filtering if i had just had a lot of rain and stuff.

Alkaline leaning in a living soil is def preferable to acidic leaning. In basically all scenarios. The fungi dont like to be far above neutral though. They can process just fine, but it starts to interfere with their reproduction with most fungi up in that range. They wont die back and let anything else colonize though like in super acidic soils for extended periods.

Like i said, theres a damn good reason biologists are worried about the oceans beginning to poison complex life with sulfide gasses as the oceans turn more acidic. Aside from bleaching corals and killing fish eggs, That stifles the reproduction and nutrient gathering habits of beneficial aerobic organisms and bacteria, and promotes the loss of calcium and magnesium from the nutrient cycle, further accelerating the anaerobic bacteria growth. Because it's based in the cycling of a living system, the problems just dont happen anywhere nearly as quickly, but they absolutely still *can* in the right context. And once they do, if they do, its actually harder to recover from then a non living soil **by orders of magnitude*.

The biggest mass-extinction event in earth's history, was ocean acidification allowing anaerobes to out compete the aerobic life, locked up calcium and magnesium in forms unusable by life, sometimes even toxic to life (hydrochloric salt mineral forms over lighter molecularly weighted acetate forms, yup.... that's salt deposits, generated by the micro flora/fauna, that further increase acidity even more lol), and it generated enough hydrogen sulfide it poisoned most of the complex terrestrial plant and animal life on earth. Killed more species then the dinosaur meteor. Excessive acidity is bad news for all complex, non anaerobic life. In any context. It's why the only thing that grows under a pine tree is poison ivy, and theres not many mycorrhizal fungi that can colonize their roots either because of it. Mostly just amanitas and russula fungi.

If you soil stays acidic or is repeatedly driven acidic, long enough for extended periods, even in a living super soil, you will eventually begin to see the same thing that happens almost immediately when you overly acidify a bottle fed coco bucket or DWC or something. Your aerobic bacteria and fungi will begin to die, causing N calcium and magnesium deficiency, and then anaerobes will slowly replace them, forcing root rot and stuff. Just takes a lot longer to show then other growing methods.

^people using super soils loose plants that way every now and then, and often never have any idea why at all.
 
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#40,005
MartyMcFly42oh said:
I drink that shity coffee every day 🤣, I’m too cheap to buy the good stuff. Although I get the “Black silk” so I feel fancy.😂
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i been drinking this Ihop dark chocolate coffe because it got put on sale. Normally i drink the cheap maxwell stuff.

This ihop coffee is heaven by contrast lol. And it's still cheap crap.
 
#40,006
Thatoneguyyouknow_ said:
indoors i feed a small amount of bottle synthetic feed with almost every watering. I rarely do high ppm feeds followed by PH adjusted water. And im getting used to my mix ratios enough that im pretty much nailing the PH spot on every time. Every now and then i still check it though. My water does weird things with its PH after filtering if i had just had a lot of rain and stuff.

Alkaline leaning in a living soil is def preferable to acidic leaning. In basically all scenarios. The fungi dont like to be far above neutral though. They can process just fine, but it starts to interfere with their reproduction with most fungi up in that range. They wont die back and let anything else colonize though like in super acidic soils for extended periods.

Like i said, theres a damn good reason biologists are worried about the oceans beginning to poison complex life with sulfide gasses as the oceans turn more acidic. Aside from bleaching corals and killing fish eggs, That stifles the reproduction and nutrient gathering habits of beneficial aerobic organisms and bacteria, and promotes the loss of calcium and magnesium from the nutrient cycle, further accelerating the anaerobic bacteria growth. Because it's based in the cycling of a living system, the problems just dont happen anywhere nearly as quickly, but they absolutely still *can* in the right context. And once they do, if they do, its actually harder to recover from then a non living soil **by orders of magnitude*.

The biggest mass-extinction event in earth's history, was ocean acidification allowing anaerobes to out compete the aerobic life, locked up calcium and magnesium in forms unusable by life, sometimes even toxic to life (hydrochloric salt mineral forms over lighter molecularly weighted acetate forms, yup.... that's salt deposits, generated by the micro flora/fauna, that further increase acidity even more lol), and it generated enough hydrogen sulfide it poisoned most of the complex terrestrial plant and animal life on earth. Killed more species then the dinosaur meteor. Excessive acidity is bad news for all complex, non anaerobic life. In any context. It's why the only thing that grows under a pine tree is poison ivy, and theres not many mycorrhizal fungi that can colonize their roots either because of it. Mostly just amanitas and russula fungi.

If you soil stays acidic or is repeatedly driven acidic, long enough for extended periods, even in a living super soil, you will eventually begin to see the same thing that happens almost immediately when you overly acidify a bottle fed coco bucket or DWC or something. Your aerobic bacteria and fungi will begin to die, causing N calcium and magnesium deficiency, and then anaerobes will slowly replace them, forcing root rot and stuff. Just takes a lot longer to show then other growing methods.

^people using super soils loose plants that way every now and then, and often never have any idea why at all.
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Also a reason I don’t reuse my peat, I use it in my garden when I amend new holes, new medium every sun so I know I’m not starting at a disadvantage

Supersoils or living soils are a different game lol I agree there you gotta monitor everything as there’s no starting over
 
#40,008
Mikedin said:
Also a reason I don’t reuse my peat, I use it in my garden when I amend new holes, new medium every sun so I know I’m not starting at a disadvantage

Supersoils or living soils are a different game lol I agree there you gotta monitor everything as there’s no starting over
Click to expand...
the only reason im against the "ph meters are useless" advice even though most the time it's true, is because new growers doing research are going to read that, and get the wrong idea, and suffer consequences without knowing what they did wrong. It's a highly contextually bound statement lol. And they are indeed highly useful troubleshooting aids, assuming you have one you can trust. Which is a whole nother can of worms to open all together lol.

I bought 2 of those cheap yellow auto calibraters, and theyre both horrible tested against strips, like as much a ~1.0-1.5~ off the mark. Even after calibrating. The manual calibrating yellow ones years ago were fine. I had to pay $45 to get a meter that tested accurate against a set of pool strips and a reagent tube. Was meter #4 in the end i could trust, one sold by a home beer brewing company. and i spent about $120 total to find it, and $45 for the lone meter already isnt cheap.. thats insanity. Didnt used to be like that, and i imagine its part of the source of "ph meters are useless" because those are the ones everyone buys/receives in kits these days. If you have an accurate yellow auto-calibrator, you are taking part in a miracle.
 
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#40,009
Mikedin said:
Also a reason I don’t reuse my peat, I use it in my garden when I amend new holes, new medium every sun so I know I’m not starting at a disadvantage

Supersoils or living soils are a different game lol I agree there you gotta monitor everything as there’s no starting over
Click to expand...
and same, used soil goes outside. Usually to my compost piles. The only soil ingredient i re-use in containers is horticultural pumice stone. And when i ran coir, i would wash and reuse the portions the roots easily let go of after a harvest under light water pressure.
 
#40,010
Thatoneguyyouknow_ said:
the only reason im against the "ph meters are useless" advice even though most the time it's true, is because new growers doing research are going to read that, and get the wrong idea, and suffer consequences without knowing what they did wrong. It's a highly contextually bound statement lol. And they are indeed highly useful troubleshooting aids, assuming you have one you can trust. Which is a whole nother can of worms to open all together lol.
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Fair enough I can meet in the middle there lol, new grower just slammin full dosages into unknown water could defenitly cause an issue, l, and yeah I’ve select years playing with my method to be were I’m at, but a newbie trying it would probably have huge issues
 
#40,011
Mikedin said:
Fair enough I can meet in the middle there lol, new grower just slammin full dosages into unknown water could defenitly cause an issue, l, and yeah I’ve select years playing with my method to be were I’m at, but a newbie trying it would probably have huge issues
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Ive run into few that arent just running fox farm or flora trio with cal-mag and silica in straight coir lol. It's what the hydro stores sell a first timer most of the time because its basically impossible to overwater, and all you have to monitor is PPM, PH, and feed schedule.

In that context, keeping ph between 6 and 6.3 is mission critical. One of the most mission critical parts of your grow.

I got 4 or 5 new growers doing just that basically living inside my DM inbox rn lmao. Several others already set free into the growing word now, Had to migrate em to discord to speed things up because theres so many new bottle feed growers being thrown off by this apparently. To start every single one (not kidding, all of them) thought they had LED burn, but it was acidic mineral lockout for every example i have lol (all of them, not kidding there either). They had all read/received advice from living soil and 100% organic growers and took it to heart and their plants suffered greatly for it early on.

If you run fox farm or flora into RO water with no PH correction, following the bottle instructions, your solution is going to level out to like 4.5-5 ph 😐
 
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#40,012
Thatoneguyyouknow_ said:
and same, used soil goes outside. Usually to my compost piles. The only soil ingredient i re-use in containers is horticultural pumice stone. And when i ran coir, i would wash and reuse the portions the roots easily let go of after a harvest under light water pressure.
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For me it’s just about potential disease carriers in the soil, yes I do put tons of organics and microbes in through the grow but the risk of moving a plant into diseased soil isint worth it to me especially running perpetual the last thing I’d wanna do is slam a plant into the tent with plants at 3 different stages of flower, plus the risk of gnats etc from certian new soils is why I keep my method lol
 
#40,013
Thatoneguyyouknow_ said:
Ive run into few that arent just running fox farm or flora trio with cal-mag and silica in straight coir lol. It's what the hydro stores sell a first timer most of the time because its basically impossible to overwater, and all you have to monitor is PPM, PH, and feed schedule.

In that context, keeping ph between 6 and 6.3 is mission critical. One of the most mission critical parts of your grow.

I got 4 or 5 new growers doing just that basically living inside my DM inbox rn lmao. Several others already set free into the growing word now, Had to migrate em to discord to speed things up because theres so many new bottle feed growers being thrown off by this apparently. To start every single one (not kidding, all of them) thought they had LED burn, but it was acidic mineral lockout for every example i have lol (all of them, not kidding there either). They had all read/received advice from living soil and 100% organic growers and took it to heart and their plants suffered greatly for it early on.

If you run fox farm or flora into RO water with no PH correction, following the bottle instructions, your solution is going to level out to like 4.5-5 ph 😐
Click to expand...
That’s why I’d never reccomend coco for a beginner always soil. The most forgiving while people learn… what the hell they are doing 🤣 stuff gets more technical and it becomes more difficult to maintain for most, hell most newbies can barely water correctly let alone adjust PH and feed ratios based off the plant appearance and make it through 7-10 weeks of flower lol
 
#40,014
TreeBee said:
I am a coffee snob lol
Not the most expensive beans but always whole beans for me. Can't beat a french press imo.
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@TreeBee check out Road Roasters! They are a local company out of my area but roast very good beans! They have a style for everyone. I was really enjoying the “hella dark” but it was too acidic for me. I ended up getting and really liking the “road zombie” : ) ✌️
 
#40,015
Mikedin said:
That’s why I’d never reccomend coco for a beginner always soil. The most forgiving while people learn… what the hell they are doing 🤣 stuff gets more technical and it becomes more difficult to maintain for most, hell most newbies can barely water correctly let alone adjust PH and feed ratios based off the plant appearance and make it through 7-10 weeks of flower lol
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thats my thoughts, but when a newbies already doing that, i default to getting em on track, and the first couple that have finished their coco grows now, have both moved to a soil mix lol. Just got em on an inexpensive soil mix they could make cheap from base ingredients and consider reliable. Coco is def a crash course for a newbie. But they generally ask for the easiest and most productive growing, which is definitely bottle feeding synthetic in coco even though its far from my own preference. Most new growers have no idea how demanding that becomes in flower and when plants get big though. And advice for that style of growing needs to be very specific.

I absolutely nudge em towards soil after coco for sure. Managing overwatering is a lot easier then having to figure out a way to be hands on with your plants 3x a day consistently during flower. And we all know how automating that kinda thing with the system the hydro store upsells you on tends to go for a beginner lmao. They generally dont even send you on with an air stone or light proof res. Just a timer, a pump, a bucket and some 1/4 tubing lol. They'll usually try and sell you an AC condensate pump at 3x the cost ace hardware will too.

I also feel like newer growers expect there to be a "Push play harvest weed when done" method to this in this day and age because they're used to everything working that way for them 🤣
 
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#40,018
Why not. I'll join the party with my cheap garbage
IMG 20240801 132738310


It was on sale. It's good. Tastes better then the Maxwell house. Not as strong though. I've been thinking it was dark chocolate but its not.. Probably full of shit you dont want to be drinking though.
 
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