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What is happening to this baby?

  • Thread starter Thread starter wollywonka
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What is happening to this baby?

wollywonka 107 Replies 9,249 Views
Page 2 of 6 · Replies 21–40 of 108
#21
wollywonka said:
This is today... I feel she's getting worse quicker. More yellow tips even on sugar leaves..
I'm considering a flush... Maybe too much nutes!
Click to expand...
are you watering to runoff? have you checked your run off ppm, ec, ph etc?
 
#23
Listen, if you have not used calmag up to this point, you’re not hurting anything by using it. Tap water or RO. I’ve used both and used calmag every single time. I don’t runoff dump 95% of the time unless I overwater and need to remove some from the tray because it didn’t soak over time. I also used GH Micro regular with tap and not the GH Micro Hard Water, didn’t matter, shit grew without deficiencies. Calmag is your protector from pushing limits if you want my opinion about it, they use a crap load of it for multiple processes, so why skimp or not use it. It is only when you go way too hard on calcium will it cause a lockout, but it will only lockout other positive ions in the soil.

Iron is another positive ion. It can cause yellowing. Ph being too high will make it less available. Anything 7.5+ is basically going to show deficiency. Especially in a stage when she is demanding it.

Lo and behold that Iron is also in the process of creating chlorophyll. Now, CaliMagic has chelated Iron! So don’t drop it out, keep using it 1ml per gallon. Calmags usage is to prevent secondary nutrient deficiencies. There is a reason Magic is in the name. It’s a key nutrient to use all grow to accommodate how much abuse we home growers put on these plants. A protective barrier to deficiencies.
 
#24
Probably Molybdenum deficiency. Lots of these fruity organic woowoo sauces contain microbes that break down aminos into nitrate. Buildasoil for example has more nitrate in their soil than straight bottle grows. Nitrate takes 3 times the energy to assimilate at CO2 does. Which is why I laugh at the industry that still uses nitrate and it's required pesticides. Most "nitrogen deficiency" is nitrogen toxicity, aka molybdenum deficiency.


Bdubs said:
The calcium yellowing tends to skip up and go bottom-middle-top not affecting all the leafs on the way up. Whereas nitrogen deficiency will be selective leaves bottom up yellowing.
Click to expand...
What the fuck you talking about. Calcium deficiency shows in new growth.
 
#26
wollywonka said:
Thanks for the swift reply @Bdubs! I'm using the same tap water that I've used all my grows.. Never had an issue and the water seems fine.. Has a ph of 8.3 that i need to correct, i guess this indicates calcium presence or am i wrong?
Otherwise i guess you're correct and i'll buy immediately a calmag solution!
Click to expand...
Alkalinity test coupled with a water report/analysis will tell you all about your water source.

Soil test from manufacturer another thing to look into
 
#27
DsNutes said:
Probably Molybdenum deficiency. Lots of these fruity organic woowoo sauces contain microbes that break down aminos into nitrate. Buildasoil for example has more nitrate in their soil than straight bottle grows. Nitrate takes 3 times the energy to assimilate at CO2 does. Which is why I laugh at the industry that still uses nitrate and it's required pesticides. Most "nitrogen deficiency" is nitrogen toxicity, aka molybdenum deficiency.



What the fuck you talking about. Calcium deficiency shows in new growth.
Click to expand...
A high level of molyb will stimulate N guys! It's a fact!! Not a molyb def...they don't co stimulate nor co antagonize eachother
 
#28
Towards the end of its lifecycle people say yellowing is normal...i say not...plants should be green and healthy all the way up to harvest
 
#30
Kegdas216 said:
are you watering to runoff? have you checked your run off ppm, ec, ph etc?
Click to expand...

wollywonka said:
T

This time i didn't but it was all ok when the problem showed up and later
Click to expand...
He still has yet to post ppm ph etc...please do so. And the name of the intruments used is helpful too....your op said right off the bat those variables were fine. I dont believe you...lotta folks get mad when asked about ppm ph...ive seen it on forums alot!
 
#32
Bdubs said:
Listen, if you have not used calmag up to this point, you’re not hurting anything by using it. Tap water or RO. I’ve used both and used calmag every single time. I don’t runoff dump 95% of the time unless I overwater and need to remove some from the tray because it didn’t soak over time. I also used GH Micro regular with tap and not the GH Micro Hard Water, didn’t matter, shit grew without deficiencies. Calmag is your protector from pushing limits if you want my opinion about it, they use a crap load of it for multiple processes, so why skimp or not use it. It is only when you go way too hard on calcium will it cause a lockout, but it will only lockout other positive ions in the soil.

Iron is another positive ion. It can cause yellowing. Ph being too high will make it less available. Anything 7.5+ is basically going to show deficiency. Especially in a stage when she is demanding it.

Lo and behold that Iron is also in the process of creating chlorophyll. Now, CaliMagic has chelated Iron! So don’t drop it out, keep using it 1ml per gallon. Calmags usage is to prevent secondary nutrient deficiencies. There is a reason Magic is in the name. It’s a key nutrient to use all grow to accommodate how much abuse we home growers put on these plants. A protective barrier to deficiencies.
Click to expand...
His soil ph can't be to high...lmao. he's using bio buzz fermented molasses. This fast is known for driving ph down...ive used it for 3 to 4 years. I believe it's nitrites or nitrates that do it
 
#33

erb4all said:
His soil ph can't be to high...lmao. he's using bio buzz fermented molasses. This fast is known for driving ph down...ive used it for 3 to 4 years. I believe it's nitrites or nitrates that do it
Click to expand...
I tried measuring soil ph by leaving a 1:1 ratio soil water solution overnight and dropping the pen in and it was 7.3
 
#34
wollywonka said:
Thanks erb! I'll look into it :)
Click to expand...
You can get a product called cal Flo. It's flowable cal. It's good for adding alkalinity to soil so you don't drive it down..I use more than directed on the nute bottle...lol....the N sources in bio buzz drive ph down. I think it's more nitrites that do...look into it maybe nitrates or both doing it...a good source of alkalinity for for soil is good. That calflo works great. 2 tbsp to a gallon shake really good water in let sit for 24 hours check ph.. if low hasn't gone up double with 4 tbsp and check again. 6.3 to 6.5 is where you need to be
 
#36
Ph of nute solution is usually around 6.8.. I have no ec readings as of yet apart from tap water 500us/cm PH 7.8
 
#39
Sounds like your soil ph is a bit high. How old is the meter? Age of batteries? Name of the ph pen?
 
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