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I can’t figure this one out…

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I can’t figure this one out…

jamesmessenger1 33 Replies 2,277 Views
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jamesmessenger1

jamesmessenger1

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Brown spotting on older leaves with minor yellowing, and I’ve used a bit of cal mag, but seemingly still getting worse.

Before I go throwing more cal mag at it, what are your thoughts here?
 

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Most likely ph issues locking some nutrients out. Flush them the feed them
 
Hey james......I'm leaning towards Reals answer.....just a guess, week 3ish flower?

Any other information you can give us......
 
Yeah it’s like day 16 or so of flower.
Lots of microbes and beneficials.
Organic teas and light synthetic.
I’m starting to think that the humic acids that I added lowered the ph of the soil a little too much.
Just a guess since the cal mag didn’t do anything to help it.
 
My first guess is overwatering. How wet is the soil?

My second guess is calcium deficiency that can result from too much magnesium. So, it might help to stop the calmag and wait a while to see how it adjusts.

I doubt it's a pH problem, considering you're using organic methods.

Those brown spots won't get better, but the plant should be okay. It looks like it has adequate nutrients. I don't see signs of magnesium deficiency. There isn't much vegetative growth once flowering has begun. The plant's priority shifts to reproduction.
 
Interesting.
I’ve been just going by weighing the pots because I don’t want them to get bone dry due to the microbial life in the soil. So that’s a real possibility I suppose.

Also had a guy say that it needs more phosphorus when the necrotic spots start showing in week 3 of flower. Especially with any added co2.

But thanks for all the information man. Really appreciate it!
 
First, it is necessary to create a balance of nutrients in the solution in accordance with their ratio to each other and agriculture. The organic substrate has chemical and physical characteristics. A special place is occupied by the ability to absorb and the water regime. The wind, whose speed exceeds 1.5 m/s, has a negative effect, increasing evaporation. This is a necessary minimum. We already know the temperature and humidity of the air, these parameters are the most difficult to control, so adjust the concentration and k/ca ratio based on them
 
By the sounds your mixing 2 different methods organic with (light synthetics) I think it’s either 1 way or the other for mine ya can’t mix both as the synthetic nutes will mess with your microbes just my opinion though and I’m primarily a synthetic guy👍
 
By the sounds your mixing 2 different methods organic with (light synthetics) I think it’s either 1 way or the other for mine ya can’t mix both as the synthetic nutes will mess with your microbes just my opinion though and I’m primarily a synthetic guy👍
And I would suggest a different view. I will not argue with what and how to feed. But there is information, think about it... 1. the root zone of cannabis is 40x40cm. 2. When to feed cannabis? The root system is weak - a higher concentration is required than in other crops. 3. The transpiration coefficient is 1200, which is one of the highest in nature. Conclusion: the top dressing is combined organic matter + minerals, but after the beginning of flowering, any closed soil turns into coconut fiber in value. Don't laugh, but the chemical and physical properties of the substrate will not be preserved. The root vegetable is too big, about 64L
 
And I would suggest a different view. I will not argue with what and how to feed. But there is information, think about it... 1. the root zone of cannabis is 40x40cm. 2. When to feed cannabis? The root system is weak - a higher concentration is required than in other crops. 3. The transpiration coefficient is 1200, which is one of the highest in nature. Conclusion: the top dressing is combined organic matter + minerals, but after the beginning of flowering, any closed soil turns into coconut fiber in value. Don't laugh, but the chemical and physical properties of the substrate will not be preserved. The root vegetable is too big, about 64L
What are you even talking about? lol 😂
 
Brown spotting on older leaves with minor yellowing, and I’ve used a bit of cal mag, but seemingly still getting worse.

Before I go throwing more cal mag at it, what are your thoughts here?
This is early stages of manganese or similar micronutrient deficiency most likely. In a fully organic mix/regiment? Can be common going into flower with a totally oirganic mix/regiment thats not totally complete.


I see no signs of overwatering or nutrient lockout on this plant. It would have to be locking out in the alkaline direction to create an issue like this, and that would come with other tales not pictured here. Your N is a bit high too, not dangerously so, but it's a bit high. If it was locking out calcium from acidity, it would also be locking out nitrogen. If it was locking out in the alkaline direction youd see a lot more pronounced ridges and margins, and curved leaf fingers.




Could be a calcium deficiency like it seems like youve already troubleshooted.


Keep in mind calcium isnt a mobile nutrient, damage doesnt heal once you solve that issue. it just doesnt appear on newer growth, if that was early calcium deficiency, the rust spots arent going to go away. Same with micronutrients. Using too much cal-mag can actually lock out micronutrients without drifting PH as well.


Using too much cal-mag can actually cause micronutrient deficiencies directly, and sometimes its very difficult to tell calcium def from micronutrient def. If cal mag is making it worse, its def 100% micronutrient issue.
 
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Interesting.
I’ve been just going by weighing the pots because I don’t want them to get bone dry due to the microbial life in the soil. So that’s a real possibility I suppose.

Also had a guy say that it needs more phosphorus when the necrotic spots start showing in week 3 of flower. Especially with any added co2.

But thanks for all the information man. Really appreciate it!
A proper wet, dry cycle is everything five and 7 gallon pots if iDialed in, shouldn’t take more than four days to dry. A good general tip is that the pot and root zone will feel like it’s the equivalent of Styrofoam instead of dirt plants will get that light before a back wilt occurs and you can feed nutrients every four days you get on a dry cycle like that and you’ll be rolling on easy street.
 
This is manganese or similar micronutrient deficiency. In a fully organic mix/regiment? Can be common going into flower with a totally oirganic mix/regiment thats not totally complete.


I see no signs of overwatering or nutrient lockout on this plant. It would have to be locking out in the alkaline direction to create an issue like this, and that would come with other tales not pictured here. Your N is a bit high too, not dangerously so, but it's a bit high.
Been seeing that a bit more these day homie.
A bit too much n here too, not much…
But it’s a thing.
 
Been seeing that a bit more these day homie.
A bit too much n here too, not much…
But it’s a thing.
lol my point break has some high N symptoms right now. Thing did not want 111 during transition, it wanted the N totally cut off it seems. But now i know 🤣

It actually seems like plants might be getting more N sensitive, but less Mag sensitive as breeding out under LED panels is going on.
 
Thanks for all the solid info guys!

I actually think that the cal mag sorted it out because all the new growth beyond that level is all solid.

I just can’t understand how people manage to just build a soil, add water, and have zero issues with banger buds. lol.

I always run into something.

Maybe I’m just not using big enough pots lol.
 
So.
Apparently I was 100% wrong lol.
It seems to still be progressing, and before I did anything else, I wanted to show you guys what I’m dealing with!

Even though I used the cal mag and micro nutrients to try and fix it before, I’m using a living soil mix with Gaia green top dressings…

Have been only using water outside of the first aid…

I swear it looks like calcium deficiency.
 
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