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Fluffy buds, why is this happening? :(

  • Thread starter Thread starter Arythmea
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Fluffy buds, why is this happening? :(

Arythmea 40 Replies 3,825 Views
Page 2 of 3 · Replies 21–40 of 41
#21
Arythmea said:
I have a 4 inch duct fan.
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Brotofsky has a good question. I think if you get the fan exhausting the air rather than pushing in outside air that could be a start! : ) not sure your current fan placement so if it is already exhausting maybe just crank it up : )
 
#23
BearWater said:
Brotofsky has a good question. I think if you get the fan exhausting the air rather than pushing in outside air that could be a start! : ) not sure your current fan placement so if it is already exhausting maybe just crank it up : )
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Never *Would* have thought of that.
 
#25
You don't have enough light. If I'm follow this correctly your in a 3 x 3 tent? With 100w Mars light? If so that's 11.1 watt per. sq. ft. The old normal standard was 25 watt per. sq. ft. and it is trending rapidly to 30/35 watt per. sq. ft. as led's become better and more useful to the plant. If your plants are autoflower the lights can be on 20 to 24 hours a day. In the summer I run my auto's with lights on 20 hours for heat management. During the winter there on 24 hours. You don't need hurricane force winds in your tent. Pulling enough air through the tent to help with heat management and RH is all that's needed with two or three small 6" fans circing air in the tent. Plants don't use O2 like humans. They produce O2 and consume CO2. The O2 they need they get from water for the most part in dissolved O2 through the roots.
 
#26
Blastfact said:
You don't have enough light. If I'm follow this correctly your in a 3 x 3 tent? With 100w Mars light? If so that's 11.1 watt per. sq. ft. The old normal standard was 25 watt per. sq. ft. and it is trending rapidly to 30/35 watt per. sq. ft. as led's become better and more useful to the plant. If your plants are autoflower the lights can be on 20 to 24 hours a day. In the summer I run my auto's with lights on 20 hours for heat management. During the winter there on 24 hours. You don't need hurricane force winds in your tent. Pulling enough air through the tent to help with heat management and RH is all that's needed with two or three small 6" fans circing air in the tent. Plants don't use O2 like humans. They produce O2 and consume CO2. The O2 they need they get from water for the most part in dissolved O2 through the roots.
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It's a 150w. (Mars Hydro TS1000) but that's still not enough?
 
#29
Arythmea said:
I adjusted my duct fan to a higher exhaust and upped the circulation....so we will see. I appreciate the help you guys. Thank you.
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Hope this helps a bit. I think it’s only one piece of the puzzle but a start. And as Blastfact and Schwifty are suggesting you need to look into lighting also : )
 
#30
Blastfact said:
You don't have enough light. If I'm follow this correctly your in a 3 x 3 tent? With 100w Mars light? If so that's 11.1 watt per. sq. ft. The old normal standard was 25 watt per. sq. ft. and it is trending rapidly to 30/35 watt per. sq. ft. as led's become better and more useful to the plant. If your plants are autoflower the lights can be on 20 to 24 hours a day. In the summer I run my auto's with lights on 20 hours for heat management. During the winter there on 24 hours. You don't need hurricane force winds in your tent. Pulling enough air through the tent to help with heat management and RH is all that's needed with two or three small 6" fans circing air in the tent. Plants don't use O2 like humans. They produce O2 and consume CO2. The O2 they need they get from water for the most part in dissolved O2 through the
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Blastfact said:
Even at 150watt in a 3' x 3' tent thats 9sqft divided in 150w for 16.66 watt persqft.
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Thank you so much. Very helpful!
 
#31
SchwiftyGrower said:
100% on track. You need more watts in a 3x3. I’m personally using a 300 watt bar light in my space.
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Im running a “homemade led” and thats my limiting factor. Decent nutes and climate but the light is inadequate which shows up in lack of density. @Arythmea if you can look into adding some light it will help probably more than the climate adjustment. I didnt even consider the lighting, thats my bad.
 
#32
Arythmea said:
It's a 150w. (Mars Hydro TS1000) but that's still not enough?
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150W scale for a 2x2, for a 3x3 you'll find 300W to 500W models that will fit and scale in term of power depending brands.
Larger panel with more watt usually offer a more even light coverage and dispersion near tent borders, but you may not use them 100% close to the plants.
 
#33
Arythmea said:
I'm growing autoflowers in a 3x3 Tent. My buds have been turning out fairly fluffy instead of dense. I have great trichrome content, super sticky. Just fluffy. What am I doing wrong?

Humidity during flower- 35-40%

Temp- 80-84

Light- Hydrofarms t1000 (16 hour cycle)

Nutrients- Foxfarm Big Bloom (no nutrients during last 2 weeks of flower)

Soil- Foxfarm Coco Loco.
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Airy buds are mainly caused by two factors, excessive heat and/or lack of light.
 
#34
Reasons for fluffy buds:
Genetics, heat,too much light,too much nitrogen in late flower, and maybe more
 
#35
Buy another ts1000 and put it in the tent that’ll be 300 watts it’ll be enough. Do this asap. And your harvest should bulk up some if you order fast it should be to you in a few days. Although you can squeeze the ts1000 you have now with a more powerful tsw2000 if you hang it sideways to the first one and slightly higher.
 
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#36
in my years of growing and teaching I pretty much see the same problems people have. In your case, it’s your temperature. High temperatures are old during veg/early flower, but if temperatures stay high and you don’t lower temperatures during late flower, then the plant do not get the cue to ripen and really harden those buds.genetics play a role, but this holds true for most strains.
Another thing is, you need more light. 150w isn’t enough for a 3x3….
Those two things alone are your biggest reason for fluffy and low yield
 
#37
Agou said:
in my years of growing and teaching I pretty much see the same problems people have. In your case, it’s your temperature. High temperatures are old during veg/early flower, but if temperatures stay high and you don’t lower temperatures during late flower, then the plant do not get the cue to ripen and really harden those buds.genetics play a role, but this holds true for most strains.
Another thing is, you need more light. 150w isn’t enough for a 3x3….
Those two things alone are your biggest reason for fluffy and low yield
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Yea I'm sorry but just looking at your pic ik the issue is your lighting. I paid a lotta money over the years on indoor lighting and even my most expensive lights had to much much closer to plant. With top quality lighting (commercial not industrial) the very best lights range is 18 inches to 24 inches from canapy.........you are at least double that height. This is the eternal struggle the bane of every indoor growers existence when it comes to indoor grows,can I get more outta that light/bottle/closet/basement ECT. That's the main cause of fluff buds. It looks like you doing great so I'm willing to bet the rest of your grow is on point fr. I just glanced at pic lol.
 
#38
Arythmea said:
What am I doing wrong?
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Growing from seeds its a shot in the dark, you will never know if the fluffy buds are just genetics or something you did wrong....
I reccomend you to select a pheno , keep it and take clones from it...
Sativa leaning hybrids tends to be airy and slow to finish

IME foxtailing and fluffy buds are due mainly to high temps , excess P (infamous boosters) or too much light intensity....i grow and flower in very high humidity (80s) and i can guarantee you that if the genetic allows you, you can harvest dense and heavy buds...
 
#39
You need to lower your temperature. That is basically all you need to do. Below 80 highs and you would see uniform density. If you can get to 75 and below as a high, you can get most bud to grow dense. But they grow slightly slower. It is the temps causing the buds to push growth out and air out themselves.

Light doesn’t have to be crazy good. You just need to get the dli right for the stage of growth. Whether that means you run it 8” or 30”. Try to get there to targets, less is ok if you can’t with that light. But if you have issues controlling temps with a 100w, it won’t be easier with anything stronger.
 
#40
Agou said:
in my years of growing and teaching I pretty much see the same problems people have. In your case, it’s your temperature. High temperatures are good during veg/early flower, but if temperatures stay high and you don’t lower temperatures during late flower, then the plant do not get the cue to ripen and really harden those buds.genetics play a role, but this holds true for most strains.
Another thing is, you need more light. 150w isn’t enough for a 3x3….
Those two things alone are your biggest reason for fluffy and low yield
Click to expand...
High temps are good during veg/early flower*
 
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