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NEW GROWER! Only my third grow need help

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mellowhaze
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NEW GROWER! Only my third grow need help

Mellowhaze 97 Replies 7,461 Views
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Idk why but my last 2 grows the buds were very light. Still potent but I was wanting denser buds and figured it might be my light cause it was at 50% and turned it down cause you guys suggested it and now it’s at 25% and don’t seem like enough and I heard during flowering you need a certain amount of light and am wondering if I’m giving that to my plants.
 
You need a lux meter or a par meter and then go for the max light she can handle.allsoo little bit less N in late flower.and if you can early flower do with 14h and late flower do with 10h colder late flower and shorter light would give a better product

But also genetics plays a roll indicas usually have denser buds
 
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What size is your tent? Or space? That’s a very good light it’s powerful. You’ll produce don’t worry. You need to get the Photone app to measure ppfd. Then you’ll never have to much or to little light in every stage of growth.
Another question I now have is I am switching my light up to the AC infinity IONFRAME EVO10 and am wondering if that light is gonna be enough to produce nice dense buds and support my plants.
 
Your light should come with recommendations from the manufacturer for light height from canopy and then light intensity. Just get the Photone app. Make a strip of printer paper with tape around the top of your phone and it’ll read your ppfd correctly. If your light is to low no matter how much nutrients you use or good genetics you will produce wispy buds
 
Your light should come with recommendations from the manufacturer for light height from canopy and then light intensity. Just get the Photone app. Make a strip of printer paper with tape around the top of your phone and it’ll read your ppfd correctly. If your light is to low no matter how much nutrients you use or good genetics you will produce wispy buds
I will definitely do that. Thank you
 
What size is your tent? Or space? That’s a very good light it’s powerful. You’ll produce don’t worry. You need to get the Photone app to measure ppfd. Then you’ll never have to much or to little light in every stage of growth.
8x8 Tent
 
What should it be in organics? I know people say the soil will buffer the ph however depending on the alkalinity of the water, if it’s above 75ppm you need to adjust it
Well, pH isn't measured in ppm. It is the abbreviation for power of Hydrogen. A pH of 7.0 is neutral. Below that is acidic. Above that is alkaline (or basic). Parts per million, ppm, measures the amount of a substance in a solution or mixture.

People do say soil can buffer the pH. That means the soil will adjust the pH to a specific value.

There isn't a need for adjusting the pH of water when using organic (dry) nutrients. There is a need, however, when using synthetic (liquid) nutrients. The reason for the difference has to do with how the nutrients are taken up by the roots.

Synthetic nutrients are directly taken up by the plant, but the best pH value differs for each elemental nutrient (Nitogen, for example). Only a pH close to 6.0 is at a level at which all nutrients are available to the plant.

Organic nutrients are taken up with the help of fungi in the soil, known as mycorrhiza. Mycorrhizae live in mutualistic symbiotic relationship with the plant. Their part in this relationship is to feed the plant, thus pH is only a concern for the mycorrhizae, and they aren't as picky as the plant.
 
I didn’t read all the comments but has anyone brought up that the soil is moist only around the base of the plants?

Those bags need a 100% thorough watering every time and followed by a 5+ day dry back. Dry spots in the soil can cause all sorts of shit.
 
Another question I now have is I am switching my light up to the AC infinity IONFRAME EVO10 and am wondering if that light is gonna be enough to produce nice dense buds and support my plants.


ionframe evo 10 board dimension is 112cmx113cm (almost 4x4) so it's too small to offer an even light coverage and dispersion for flowering the whole area in a 8x8 tent. it's good for flowering a 5x5 tent eventually with co2

you should go with 4 smaller panel efficient for flowering a 4x4 area

like 4 ionframe evo 6 (panel dimension almost 3x3)
 
My ppm after the RO is about 25 to 30 with the 3 part micro, grow and bloom added
Beginner advice/experience. Take with caution. I’m also new to growing but this stood out to me (25-30 ppm). Is this before or after your nutes get added? I did an outdoor organic grow using FFOF a few years ago and think I nailed it. My understanding with that FoxFarm soil is it’ll get you about a month initially in Veg. At least that’s what it did for me with the FFOF. After that I needed to add organic nutrients and I kept the ppm between 300-1000 during early to late veg before flowering started and the feeding formula changed. You also might want to do what I “think” is called a slurry test for your ph. Where you test the ph & ppm of the soil and nutes in the pot. I also check the run off for both of those items.
 
Beginner advice/experience. Take with caution. I’m also new to growing but this stood out to me (25-30 ppm). Is this before or after your nutes get added? I did an outdoor organic grow using FFOF a few years ago and think I nailed it. My understanding with that FoxFarm soil is it’ll get you about a month initially in Veg. At least that’s what it did for me with the FFOF. After that I needed to add organic nutrients and I kept the ppm between 300-1000 during early to late veg before flowering started and the feeding formula changed. You also might want to do what I “think” is called a slurry test for your ph. Where you test the ph & ppm of the soil and nutes in the pot. I also check the run off for both of those items.
Wouldnt that month be dependant on the amount of dirt the size of the plant and the power of the lamp?
 
I didn’t read all the comments but has anyone brought up that the soil is moist only around the base of the plants?

Those bags need a 100% thorough watering every time and followed by a 5+ day dry back. Dry spots in the soil can cause all sorts of shit.
Yea when I water them fully they tend to turn yellow on new growth for a couple days. I just got spider farmer auto drip irrigation system that might help to water fully without overwatering the top soil and mid soil is dry cause all the water seems to run out the side of the pot instead of going down. I got 10 gallon pots for some and 7 gallon for others cause I didn’t wanna buy more pots till next run.
 
Yea when I water them fully they tend to turn yellow on new growth for a couple days. I just got spider farmer auto drip irrigation system that might help to water fully without overwatering the top soil and mid soil is dry cause all the water seems to run out the side of the pot instead of going down. I got 10 gallon pots for some and 7 gallon for others cause I didn’t wanna buy more pots till next run.
This is after I just manually watered all of them fully
 
I just watered them last nite before they went to sleep
 

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ionframe evo 10 board dimension is 112cmx113cm (almost 4x4) so it's too small to offer an even light coverage and dispersion for flowering the whole area in a 8x8 tent. it's good for flowering a 5x5 tent eventually with co2

you should go with 4 smaller panel efficient for flowering a 4x4 area

like 4 ionframe evo 6 (panel dimension almost 3x3)
So I did get the dimensions wrong I just bought this bigger tent so give me a little slack lol but it’s a 4X8
 
I do have a honorsen 4000 I could put in there with the Evo10 if needed
 
I just don’t know what I’m doing wrong. I see all these other peoples grows and my plants seem like there little baby toddlers that are beginning to become depressing to look at.
 
Well, pH isn't measured in ppm. It is the abbreviation for power of Hydrogen. A pH of 7.0 is neutral. Below that is acidic. Above that is alkaline (or basic). Parts per million, ppm, measures the amount of a substance in a solution or mixture.

People do say soil can buffer the pH. That means the soil will adjust the pH to a specific value.

There isn't a need for adjusting the pH of water when using organic (dry) nutrients. There is a need, however, when using synthetic (liquid) nutrients. The reason for the difference has to do with how the nutrients are taken up by the roots.

Synthetic nutrients are directly taken up by the plant, but the best pH value differs for each elemental nutrient (Nitogen, for example). Only a pH close to 6.0 is at a level at which all nutrients are available to the plant.

Organic nutrients are taken up with the help of fungi in the soil, known as mycorrhiza. Mycorrhizae live in mutualistic symbiotic relationship with the plant. Their part in this relationship is to feed the plant, thus pH is only a concern for the mycorrhizae, and they aren't as picky as the plant.
Alkalinity is measured in Ppms not the ph. Two different things.
https://ag.umass.edu/greenhouse-floriculture/fact-sheets/water-quality-ph-alkalinity

The more ppms of alkalinity the longer it takes to buffer your ph. If it’s over 100 your soil can’t buffer it correctly. 6.5-6.8 is ideal for soil from what I’ve seen.
 

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