Coco grow leaves already going yellow

[Salkio]

Hi all, first time posting on a cannabis forum. I'm desperate for some help.

Equipment:
- Migro Aray 2 bar LED 125w (its on 100% power, and raised almost all the way to the top of the tent)
- Coco 60/40 (coco/perlite) (I added a bit of calmag to the coco before I seeded. According to another cannabis forum)
- Garden HighPro ProBox Basic - 80 x 80 x 180 cm
- 5gal fabric pots
- Seed KongsKrush by GreenHouseSeeds.

GreenHouse Seeds Nutrients:

1. - Green House Powder Feeding – Long Flowering
2. - Green House Powder Feeding – Calcium
3. - Green House Powder Feeding – Booster
4. - T.A CalMag

After 4 weeks of growth, I flushed with plain pH'ed water. Then I switched to flower.
I give 2 litres of water per plant. I fill up a bucket with 4 ltrs and leave it overnight (for chlorine to go away), then I add my nutes according to Green House Seeds Schedule (I will leave a pic). By default, the pH gets lowered to around 5.8 to 6.2. First, I add the long flowering nutes, calcium, bloom, and T.A CalMag, give a good mix then feed.

Now to get to my issues:
As mentioned I give 2 litres per plant. I get the smallest amount of run off but I leave it in the dish as it gets absorbed quickly.
1. The leaves are growing yellow.
2. The leaves curl downwards (I think this is overwatering but my next issue is...)
3. After giving 2 litres per plant, the coco stays moist for a while. sometimes a week to 2 weeks. I hear people needing to water their plants in coco every few days... 1 litre does not get the coco that moist, but maybe I'm wrong.
4. If someone with better experience than me with Coco, can you please give me any sort of advice for the future?

 

[m8ty]

Test the run and see where's at and which coco brand is that? are you watering one a week or two weeks?

The leaves have that puffy over water look, and the Mag deficiency which is the first to show up when you have a problem in the root zone is apparent in the leaves.

 

[Salkio]

Test the run and see where's at and which coco brand is that? are you watering one a week or two weeks?

The leaves have that puffy over water look, and the Mag deficiency which is the first to show up when you have a problem in the root zone is apparent in the leaves.

I water both at the same time.
The coco was a generic brick and I just added perlite
For the mag deficiency, I saw a while ago, I added the CalMag and I got slightly burnt tips, then I used half of the dose I did last time (1.5ml per litre) and no burns but the leaves stayed the same...

Edit: I don't have a PPM pen... think its time I should buy one..
Ill bring some run off to my grow shop and see what they say.

 

[cocoJoe]

Did you soak/rinse your coco bricks of salt??

 

[Salkio]

Did you soak/rinse your coco bricks of salt??

Yes, so I used boiling water to break down the brick.
Then, I used a sieve to remove the small debris particles, and only the fibres were used.
Then cleaned it with water a bunch of times before rinsing with pH water and adding CalMag.

 

[HerbalEdu]

long flowering, and booster already has some Magnesium and your using the calcium from greenhouse, you shouldn't need any additionnal cal mag ... to me your issue is elswhere ...

Booster
This additive is especially formulated to provide the right amounts of Phosphorus,
Potassium, Magnesium and micronutrients to increase flower and fruit production.
COMPOSITION
0 - 30 - 27 PK+
CONCENTRATION OF ELEMENTS

• 30% [P2O5] Water Soluble Phosphate
• 27% [K2O] Water Soluble Potash
• 8,2% [MgO] Water Soluble Magnesium Oxide
• 0,03% Water Soluble Boron
• 0,002% [Cu] Water Soluble Copper (as chelate from EDTA)
• 0,12% [Fe] Water Soluble Irom (as chelate from EDTA)
• 0.05% [Mn] Water Soluble Manganese (as chelate from EDTA)
• 0.005% [Mo] Water Soluble Molybdenum
• 0.01% [Zn] Water Soluble Zinc

long Flowering
COMPOSITION /
N-P-K-Mg: 18+12+18+(1.2)
CONCENTRATION OF ELEMENTS

• • 18% N Total Nitrogen
  • 10% NS Nitrogen Nitrate
  • 8% NA Nitrogen Ammoniacal
  • 12% P2O5 Nitrogen Phosphorus
  • 18% K2O Soluble Potassium
  • 1.2% MgO Soluble Magnesium Oxide (=1.2% Mg)
  • 0.02% B Soluble Boron
  • 0.04% Cu Soluble Copper (as Chelate form EDTA)
  • 0.1% Fe Soluble Iron (as Chelate form EDTA)
  • 0.05% Mn Soluble Manganese (as Chelate from EDTA)
  • 0.005% Mo Soluble Molybdenum
  • 0.01% Zn Soluble Zinc (as Chelate from EDTA)

i'm a soil grower not a coco specialist, but i think in coco you should need to water with 10%to30% run off or so and check your feeding solution and run off pH and EC., ph and/or nutrients lockout can happen anytime in coco

 

[HerbalEdu]

also from greenhouse feeding:



Do not use CalMag with our mineral line. Calcium Nitrate is partly incompatible with Monopotassium Phosphate and Magnesium Sulfate and may result in formation of gypsum, clogging pipes or creating deficiencies

Control the EC of the runoff and flush if it’s higher than EC 2.5 (1250ppm)

For best results maintain a pH value between:

> Soil: 6.0-6.5
> Hydro/Coco: 5.8-6.2 >
> Rockwool: 5.5-6.0

 

[HerbalEdu]

here the links from greenhouse feeding you might find usefull about the mineral line you use:

HOW TO USE :: Mineral Feeding

How to use our Mineral Feeding INTRODUCTION The life cycle of a plant can be divided in two main stages the vegetative growth period andthe flowering period Both stages can be subclassified into different stages with different needs VEGETATIVE GROWTH PHASE 1 Seedling stage < 6” 2 Young plant &

shop.greenhousefeeding.com

Feeding Schedules :: Mineral Schedules :: Coco

shop.greenhousefeeding.com

 

[Illbill]

There a lot going on here.
-your coco should be drying out way faster than once a week
-your temps are 20c? You want 27-28 with lights on
-the calcium on top of calmag is throwing ratios off
-ec meters are a must in coco, if you check your runoff every few days you can see if your getting a salt buildup
-set your pot on a riser so it doesn’t soak the runoff back up, my runoff in coco always comes out way low in the ph
-Plain water flushing is not good, it’s a whole cation thing
-I like to water mine at 50 percent dry back until I’m watering once a day then I up it to 3-4 times a day and that’s usually about 4 weeks when I flip the lights. The cool temps with the led were a problem I had to fix also. After I got the temp up a lot of my problems went away. I would cut out the extra calcium and just use calmag. If you flush (I do it a lot but just about 2 gallons when I do it for a 5 gallon pot) use your regular strength nutes. Get an ec meter so you can see what’s going on. You may be getting off on your ph from sucking up the runoff. The room is too cool for the plant to uptake enough water. Sorry for the book lol.

 

[HerbalEdu]

-the calcium on top of calmag is throwing ratios off

he just shoudln't use any liquid cal mag in addition to his powder mineral nutrients line (wich already has some mg and ca). They're not compatible as mentionned on the product store page per greenhouse feeding and result in the formation of gypsum that could create deficiencies.

 

[Illbill]

he just shoudln't use any liquid cal mag in addition to his powder mineral nutrients line (wich already has some mg and ca). They're not compatible as mentionned on the product store page per greenhouse feeding and result in the formation of gypsum that could create deficiencies.

Ya. I’m not familiar with the nutes necessarily. I just know the ratio of mag to cal is going to be off with that either way if he’s using calmag and calcium.

 

[HerbalEdu]

Ya. I’m not familiar with the nutes necessarily. I just know the ratio of mag to cal is going to be off with that either way if he’s using calmag and calcium.

it' not only a matter of ratio here, it's just that in powder and liquid form, they are not available in the same form/molecule and they interact badly to each other so greenhousefeeding say you shoudln't mix their powder mineral line with any other form of cal mag.

 

[Illbill]

it' not only a matter of ratio here, it's just that in powder and liquid form, they are not available in the same form/molecule and they interact badly to each other so greenhousefeeding say you shoudln't mix their powder mineral line with any other form of cal mag.

That sounds legit to me. I went back and read everyone else’s posts. I’m not a fan of the dry nutes unless it organic and I’m in soil. For me it’s liquid in coco.

 

[BigF]

Sounds like simply not enough runoff. We have moms we keep in small pots and water from the top with little to no runoff. This works fine for a bit, but eventually they start looking like your girl's pix. One feed with heavy runoff and they are fixed up, good to go.for a while.
These will never flower, just for preserving genetics. Plants headed to flower, or in flower, get watered to runoff every day, like 20 to 30 percent.
Without runoff, the unused nutes accumulate and eventually clog the works, chemically speaking.
Also, as others suggested, never go from nutes to RO to flush out accumulated nutes. Plants use EC to regulate internal water pressure, aka turgor. When the EC goes down dramatically and quickly, turgor goes nuts high fast, causing cell walls to burst. Bad joojoo! That is why you may notice them not doing much for a day or two after.

 

[HerbalEdu]

Ya. I’m not familiar with the nutes necessarily.

i have been interested into this brand a lot recently.

they have a powder organic line with three bags,
2 that you mix on start up, transplant or as top dress once every 8 weeks or so.
and one that you dilute in water once every two weeks.

and they have a powder mineral line (readily available for the plant) with 4 bags (with 3 variations for flowering) that you dilute in water.

i made the calc to compare the cost of a cycle with what i m currently using for both line, pretty similar,
also powder nutrient store better than my organic liquid nutrients. I have got a bunch of passed out bottle over the years.

i was moslty looking into the organic line as an equivalent to gaia green in the eu i'd like to give a try with top dressing once in a while instead of mixing nutrients each watering.

 

[Illbill]

i have been interested into this brand a lot recently.

they have a powder organic line with three bags,
2 that you mix on start up, transplant or as top dress once every 8 weeks or so.
and one that you dilute in water once every two weeks.

and they have a powder mineral line (readily available for the plant) with 4 bags (with 3 variations for flowering) that you dilute in water.

i made the calc to compare the cost of a cycle with what i m currently using for both line, pretty similar,
also powder nutrient store better than my organic liquid nutrients. I have got a bunch of passed out bottle over the years.

i was moslty looking into the organic line as an equivalent to gaia green in the eu i'd like to give a try with top dressing once in a while instead of mixing nutrients each watering.

I’ve tried a lot of different nutrients over the years. I always end back at botanicare. I didn’t like any of the roots dry line. Wasn’t a fan of the Gh 3 part. Humboldt secret was alright but there was too many bottles. For whatever reason botanicare always turns out the best for me. 45 a gallon for the grow and bloom. I add calmag and earth juice micro. Kind of wasteful at times but i like it. I’m doing a side by side right now. One side is Subcools super soil and the other side is coco with botanicare. I like the create your own npk like organic alive has but it’s a lot of mixing and time consuming.

 

[Salkio]

here the links from greenhouse feeding you might find usefull about the mineral line you use:

HOW TO USE :: Mineral Feeding

How to use our Mineral Feeding INTRODUCTION The life cycle of a plant can be divided in two main stages the vegetative growth period andthe flowering period Both stages can be subclassified into different stages with different needs VEGETATIVE GROWTH PHASE 1 Seedling stage < 6” 2 Young plant &

shop.greenhousefeeding.com

Feeding Schedules :: Mineral Schedules :: Coco

shop.greenhousefeeding.com

Thank you!
Will give this a try on my second grow. I don't think my plants can recover from this stress since I'm starting week 7 flower tomorrow.

 

[Salkio]

i have been interested into this brand a lot recently.

they have a powder organic line with three bags,
2 that you mix on start up, transplant or as top dress once every 8 weeks or so.
and one that you dilute in water once every two weeks.

and they have a powder mineral line (readily available for the plant) with 4 bags (with 3 variations for flowering) that you dilute in water.

i made the calc to compare the cost of a cycle with what i m currently using for both line, pretty similar,
also powder nutrient store better than my organic liquid nutrients. I have got a bunch of passed out bottle over the years.

i was moslty looking into the organic line as an equivalent to gaia green in the eu i'd like to give a try with top dressing once in a while instead of mixing nutrients each watering.

We dont have Gaia in my country. GH is available most places for a good price.
So far I am happy, but have no idea on how to use it.

 

[Salkio]

Sounds like simply not enough runoff. We have moms we keep in small pots and water from the top with little to no runoff. This works fine for a bit, but eventually they start looking like your girl's pix. One feed with heavy runoff and they are fixed up, good to go.for a while.
These will never flower, just for preserving genetics. Plants headed to flower, or in flower, get watered to runoff every day, like 20 to 30 percent.
Without runoff, the unused nutes accumulate and eventually clog the works, chemically speaking.
Also, as others suggested, never go from nutes to RO to flush out accumulated nutes. Plants use EC to regulate internal water pressure, aka turgor. When the EC goes down dramatically and quickly, turgor goes nuts high fast, causing cell walls to burst. Bad joojoo! That is why you may notice them not doing much for a day or two after.

I always thought having too much run-off in coco was not a good thing. I use to water a lot more with run off let it soak/dry before I put the pots back. And I found the leaves gave me that "over-watered look". Hense why I'm only giving just enough that gives me little to no run off.

 

[Salkio]

There a lot going on here.
-your coco should be drying out way faster than once a week
-your temps are 20c? You want 27-28 with lights on
-the calcium on top of calmag is throwing ratios off
-ec meters are a must in coco, if you check your runoff every few days you can see if your getting a salt buildup
-set your pot on a riser so it doesn’t soak the runoff back up, my runoff in coco always comes out way low in the ph
-Plain water flushing is not good, it’s a whole cation thing
-I like to water mine at 50 percent dry back until I’m watering once a day then I up it to 3-4 times a day and that’s usually about 4 weeks when I flip the lights. The cool temps with the led were a problem I had to fix also. After I got the temp up a lot of my problems went away. I would cut out the extra calcium and just use calmag. If you flush (I do it a lot but just about 2 gallons when I do it for a 5 gallon pot) use your regular strength nutes. Get an ec meter so you can see what’s going on. You may be getting off on your ph from sucking up the runoff. The room is too cool for the plant to uptake enough water. Sorry for the book lol.

1. Yeah it takes ages for it to dry, even with a fan inside.
2. temps are sitting around 20 to 25 on occasion.
3. Ok no more cal-mag from now on. I noticed a Mag deficiency and just added CalMag without thinking.
4. I am going to order a EC meter.
5. Ok will get this for my second grow.
6. How would I flush then?
7. Once a day watering sounds so much for me. It will be a hydroponic setup at that point! hahah. We are going into summer so maybe the heat can get fixed by this. I was always worried about temps higher than 26c.

No need to say sorry! This helps a lot. Will definitely implement this in my second coco grow.