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NEW GROWER! Only my third grow need help

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mellowhaze
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NEW GROWER! Only my third grow need help

Mellowhaze 97 Replies 7,463 Views
Page 5 of 5 · Replies 81–98 of 98
#81
Depends on the strain.but usually what you feed in veg raises for the stretch then its lower than veg in late flower.but again its all strain dependant....
 
#82
this thread has some good and some misunderstood Info -
ppm is just a measure of total dissolved solids (minerals, salts, metals, cations, anions, and other organic/inorganic compounds that have ionic weight)

pH is a measure of acids/alkalinity in h20 (power/potential of hydrogen) pH of 6.0 is good for all - I mix between 5.6 and 6.3, it doesnt hurt plants to move up/down along the pH scale within safe ranges. (absorbing nutrients at different values)

I see a lot of this comment on this forum and its repeated constantly! "you dont have to pH your water in organic / soils" ok, but does it hurt to pH your water prior to fertigations? NO! why not advise people to pH correctly? its a bullshit line that should be disregarded fully.

You should always pH your water! buffering pH is just "Best Garden Practices", good habits. In Engineering we call this "Process Control".

the use of bold is not to be taken hurtfully, to any snowflakes that may be in the crowd?


Mellowhaze said:
Since I use RO water and after RO my water ppm is about 27 after nutes during flowering stage what should my ppm be looking towards?
Click to expand...
if using RO its usually 14-35ppms, after adding nutrients you should be way above that number. these are averages off the top of my head, in my grows. 150-300ppm for seedlings, 300-450ppm early Veg, 400-600ppm late Veg, 600-900ppm early flower, 800-1200ppm mid/late flower.
(note: Day Neutrals take less, Larger Healthier Photoperiods can take more, some varietals less or more, read your leaves)

You cant be in the game with a $14.00 test pen from Amazon! If you have 27 ppms after adding nutrients something is very wrong!

I have used the same pen for 10 years, it has a replaceable ORP probe (Ive replaced the ORP probe twice in 10 years), this is a combo pen that does all you need, it holds Calibration for months. And its Accurate! Hanna Instruments #HI98129 https://a.co/d/0ftWrLF

Planted my 1st seeds in 1977 - I spent 18yrs in Soils outdoor/indoor, ran flood Tables for almost 10 yrs when I was runnin cash crops, Ive also run DWC RDWC, Coco Only now that Im out of the cash game and sold my property, Semi Retired, living in a small Condo (sucks by the way).
Advice is free, but should be investigated - my advice get out of soil, soil is old tech and lacks process control. (how many ppms/ec is in your soil right now? I know exactly what's in my media at all times! need tips switching to Coco DM me - Good Luck
 
#83
Mashashari said:
Hey there, I’m doing my first grow in 20 years and have the same issue with all the newer growth. After the leaves mature a bit the leaves seem to adjust and become more green and even in color. I would have to agree with Natep. Too much or too intense light.
I noticed when I turned the intensity of my light up the problem got worse and when I turned it back down they got better. They still do this but don’t seem to be stressed otherwise so I’m just going to roll with it.
Click to expand...
You’re just talking about new growth in general.

Most ALL new growth is lighter in color.

Just throwing that into the mix lol.
 
#84
Choppr said:
this thread has some good and some misunderstood Info -
ppm is just a measure of total dissolved solids (minerals, salts, metals, cations, anions, and other organic/inorganic compounds that have ionic weight)

pH is a measure of acids/alkalinity in h20 (power/potential of hydrogen) pH of 6.0 is good for all - I mix between 5.6 and 6.3, it doesnt hurt plants to move up/down along the pH scale within safe ranges. (absorbing nutrients at different values)

I see a lot of this comment on this forum and its repeated constantly! "you dont have to pH your water in organic / soils" ok, but does it hurt to pH your water prior to fertigations? NO! why not advise people to pH correctly? its a bullshit line that should be disregarded fully.

You should always pH your water! buffering pH is just "Best Garden Practices", good habits. In Engineering we call this "Process Control".

the use of bold is not to be taken hurtfully, to any snowflakes that may be in the crowd?



if using RO its usually 14-35ppms, after adding nutrients you should be way above that number. these are averages off the top of my head, in my grows. 150-300ppm for seedlings, 300-450ppm early Veg, 400-600ppm late Veg, 600-900ppm early flower, 800-1200ppm mid/late flower.
(note: Day Neutrals take less, Larger Healthier Photoperiods can take more, some varietals less or more, read your leaves)

You cant be in the game with a $14.00 test pen from Amazon! If you have 27 ppms after adding nutrients something is very wrong!

I have used the same pen for 10 years, it has a replaceable ORP probe (Ive replaced the ORP probe twice in 10 years), this is a combo pen that does all you need, it holds Calibration for months. And its Accurate! Hanna Instruments #HI98129 https://a.co/d/0ftWrLF

Planted my 1st seeds in 1977 - I spent 18yrs in Soils outdoor/indoor, ran flood Tables for almost 10 yrs when I was runnin cash crops, Ive also run DWC RDWC, Coco Only now that Im out of the cash game and sold my property, Semi Retired, living in a small Condo (sucks by the way).
Advice is free, but should be investigated - my advice get out of soil, soil is old tech and lacks process control. (how many ppms/ec is in your soil right now? I know exactly what's in my media at all times! need tips switching to Coco DM me - Good Luck
Click to expand...
No that is my reading with just water after my RO system. I normally have it at 280 by the time I’m done with adding nutes. I just wanna learn how to do this from people with knowledge and YouTube is not helping me much. I’ve had some good grows that got me high af but the quality was low and I have been REALLY taking the time to try and learn this cause I love it as a hobby it’s fun and rewarding and cool to watch them grow. Right now I got 2 jelly donutz, 2 California sour diesel, 2 blueberry muffin plants
 
#85
So if I wanted to get away from the ph buffering nutes whats a good substitute nutes to go to. It always buffers my ph to low for soil it goes straight to 6.0 and sometimes 5.8 and I want it at 6.5 to 6.7. I’m just not to good at figuring out measurements for each and what nutes I need to focus more on in different periods. I got my new evo10 and IT WORKS AMAZING my babies love it. I set up irrigation system with ac infinity bases to catch runoff and they can still eat up what’s in the bases thru the wicks. I always go to 20% runoff watching the floats helps me know when to cut it off. Since I use LEDs I used to keep my tent 70 at night and about 74 during the day and just changed that to 70 at night and 80 to 83 during the day and has helped with soil not staying wet so long if the plants start to not eat as much for some reason and would like to water a little more frequent.
 
#87
Choppr said:
this thread has some good and some misunderstood Info -
ppm is just a measure of total dissolved solids (minerals, salts, metals, cations, anions, and other organic/inorganic compounds that have ionic weight)

pH is a measure of acids/alkalinity in h20 (power/potential of hydrogen) pH of 6.0 is good for all - I mix between 5.6 and 6.3, it doesnt hurt plants to move up/down along the pH scale within safe ranges. (absorbing nutrients at different values)

I see a lot of this comment on this forum and its repeated constantly! "you dont have to pH your water in organic / soils" ok, but does it hurt to pH your water prior to fertigations? NO! why not advise people to pH correctly? its a bullshit line that should be disregarded fully.

You should always pH your water! buffering pH is just "Best Garden Practices", good habits. In Engineering we call this "Process Control".

the use of bold is not to be taken hurtfully, to any snowflakes that may be in the crowd?



if using RO its usually 14-35ppms, after adding nutrients you should be way above that number. these are averages off the top of my head, in my grows. 150-300ppm for seedlings, 300-450ppm early Veg, 400-600ppm late Veg, 600-900ppm early flower, 800-1200ppm mid/late flower.
(note: Day Neutrals take less, Larger Healthier Photoperiods can take more, some varietals less or more, read your leaves)

You cant be in the game with a $14.00 test pen from Amazon! If you have 27 ppms after adding nutrients something is very wrong!

I have used the same pen for 10 years, it has a replaceable ORP probe (Ive replaced the ORP probe twice in 10 years), this is a combo pen that does all you need, it holds Calibration for months. And its Accurate! Hanna Instruments #HI98129 https://a.co/d/0ftWrLF

Planted my 1st seeds in 1977 - I spent 18yrs in Soils outdoor/indoor, ran flood Tables for almost 10 yrs when I was runnin cash crops, Ive also run DWC RDWC, Coco Only now that Im out of the cash game and sold my property, Semi Retired, living in a small Condo (sucks by the way).
Advice is free, but should be investigated - my advice get out of soil, soil is old tech and lacks process control. (how many ppms/ec is in your soil right now? I know exactly what's in my media at all times! need tips switching to Coco DM me - Good Luck
Click to expand...
It’s kind of intimidating about thinking of switching to coco but am game for something new next grow cause I wanna get to the point where I have big dense colas but seems soil is super hard to obtain that
 
#88
This is my next strain after this grow I’m running 6 of them
 

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#90
Mellowhaze said:
It’s kind of intimidating about thinking of switching to coco but am game for something new next grow cause I wanna get to the point where I have big dense colas but seems soil is super hard to obtain that
Click to expand...
The trick is not to over do it, stop loving the plant so much, she grows all in her own, water once a week with microbes, 150 ppm cal-mag and 250 ppm nutrients and leave the pH alone.
 
#94
And I can’t get my soil temp to get to 70 degrees is that normal
 
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