PooToe
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- Feb 6, 2024
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Either will suffice!@PooToe
So, dear Mr Toe, or should I say "Poo"? (Sorry, just feeling a bit silly today)![]()
I mentored someone on another forum that had similar gardening experience like you, which I think made it all the more frustrating!I have found your response and comments to be very helpful and actually inline with what I was already thinking, to some degree. As for the flushing part, I haven't done it and I really didn't think it made a lot of sense, but what do I know?
Love Scotty and I can say that I haven't found anything in the videos that I've watched of his that I can say are Broscience. He stays with the facts and I would recommend his advice to any new grower out there although we have to keep in mind that, as you know, growing advice depends alot on the climate you are growing in so although what he says is true it may not always apply to your situation. This is where grower experience comes into play.I have actually watched a couple of Dr Bugbee's videos, and while they sometimes go way over my head (I am horrible with math), I do see that he has the science and facts behind him. I absolutely get what you're saying about the "bro science". I think too many people growing want to be a YouTuber and so they make videos about crap (just my opinion of course). I must admit, I do enjoy watching 'The Dude Grows' (the Scotty guy makes me laugh), however, that's not to say I take everything they say and do as correct or right for me.
Here's my exact setup when it comes to nutrition. I try and stick to one brand line rather than mix up different ones just for continuity in regard to their reactions to each other. I use General Hydroponics FloraNova Grow and Bloom bases as my main fertilizer input. In the first few weeks of seedling and sprout I use Advanced Nutrients Voodoo Juice to raise the microbial life in the soil. I start using Silicate, Armor SI from GH, after the second node has appeared up until the 3rd week of flip. The silicate will help in strengthening the branching system you are growing and will aid in supporting those heavy dense flowers you'll be growing later in the process. It will also help in strengthening the cell walls to make it harder for bugs to bore into them. For Calcium and Magnesium, I use GH's CALi MAGic. Mycorhizzae from Xtreme Gardening on transplant. I use to use a product called Hormex to help in transplant shock but I haven't seen the plants get too stressed after transplant so I haven't used it in a while.In regards to Advanced Nutrients, I'm only using the Micro, Grow, Bloom trio. I have no idea about silica in regards to using it with cannabis, so I've not used that at all. I do use CalMag though because I read that it's a good addition and I think some people on here suggested it as well. I only bought the Biobizz because I was concerned about salt buildup. I have it, so I'm obviously going to use it at some point. I will, however, continue to use the Advanced Nutrients. I'm not sure how long because I don't have a lot of it left. I suppose I could just buy one single instead of going for the trio. I do wish I had paid more attention when I first started, I should have joined this forum back when I still had seedlings. You see, I didn't feed my seedlings at all and didn't give them the proper light at first, that's why I have plants of different sizes, and those 3 tallish ones. Also, when I went to buy the 2nd Batch of seeds, they were out of the ones I picked and they sent me an upgrade. Now, I know nothing about weed genetics. To be honest, I only wanted inexpensive seeds and I wanted feminized seeds. And that's what I got. However, my 2nd Batch do look quite different to my 1st Batch and I'm not sure if that's down to the better quality seeds, or that they got better light. Who knows. Anyway, getting back to things. Knowing what I know now, I realise I should have prepared my soil better. The mycorrhizae is something I've heard a lot about and if I was planting more, I'd definitely use it. I see people with seedlings that are bushy, you would have laughed if you had seen mine. They were little and spindly. I was totally unprepared for what I got into. I blame that damn bird seed weed plant I found outside (the one that ended up getting root rot because it didn't have any perlite in the soil and was holding too much water at the roots). I threw it out.
I would stick with your trio and feed accordingly. AN tends to dose heavily in their recommendations so you may want to experiment a little and feed at half dose to see how they react. One of the reasons I use GH is its economy. I haven't found a nutrient line that performs any better than GH's and GH tends to be lower priced than many of the other major nutrient lines. When I was working at a licensed grow op I had access to botanists and master growers. They all told me that brand doesn't matter. As long as the ratios were good that is all that was needed. The most I go with GH is half strength of their recommendations.
On your next grow here is the process I would recommend.
Pick up a soil that is specific for cannabis. You can use most basic potting mixes and amend them but the cannabis specific ones usually amend theirs to the needs of cannabis. Some popular ones are Fox Farms, Roots Organic Original, Happy Frog, Coast of Maine, Purple Cow, Pro Mix among others. There are countless recipes to make your own so I would encourage you to take a look and see what you like. Trust your gardening instincts. I like using Roots Organic Original. Roots Organic also has a more densely amended product called Lush that does very well also but is pricey. Check out their site and see if anything interests you.
SOIL & MEDIA — Aurora Innovations
If you like using Advanced Nutrients then continue. Again, nothing bad to say about their line other than price. Go with their Trio and Cal/Mag to start with. Using only these two products will make diagnosing any issues much easier as there are less things to blame!
That is all you really need as a basic setup to get to a successful harvest. You can add in silicate if you like.
Even though the soils I use are already amended, I like to start feeding a couple weeks into early veg. Most will continue feeding water only relying on the soil nutrition but I like to keep the pantry full! I've noticed that doing it this way keeps deficiencies to a minimum. The salt based fertilizers will provide the plant with immediately available nutrient ions while the organics in the soil do their breakdown dance and back up whatever you may be missing with the salt based ferts. I'm sure you've read about how salt based ferts will kill off your microbial community. This may have been true back in the day but todays salt based ferts made for cannabis don't seem to do that. I tested my fertilizers in a petrie dish with some agar and the agar grew like normal so my salt based ferts weren't affecting any of the natural processes happening on the organic side. BTW...microbes don't die. They only go into hibernation waiting for the ideal conditions they need to flourish.
Okay, so I'm going to continue with my Advanced Nutrients Micro, Grow, Bloom trio for about 3-4 weeks (or longer?) and once into actual budding, I will probably start using the Biobizz, and of course, I will continue with the CalMag. Is there anything else you would recommend me adding at this stage in the cycle?
I would stay away from the BioBizz for now and continue using the AN nutrients after you flip your light schedule. Switching from salt based to organic nutrients can have unintended consequences. Do a half dose blend of each along with a full dose of your micros and see how they react. Cal/Mag can be included in your feed solution as long as you will be immediately using it.
LOL! Nothing to worry about. Do as you say and there should be no negative affects on your plants. Some of my NorCal mentors used to tell me that before you flip your light schedule you want to leave the plants in the dark for 36 hrs to shock them into flowering earlier. Botanists told me that was not true but the dark period did have some benefits for different reasons so I wouldn't worry if I were you.I am flipping tomorrow. Which brings me to another question. I normally run my lights on at 7.30pm and turning them off next day at 1.30pm. When I flip I want to run my lights from 12 noon on and off at 12 midnight. So that presents a problem. if I l turn the lights on tonight at 7.30pm, that means that my lights will have been running from 7.30pm tonight until midnight tomorrow night. That seems wrong to me. Should I turn them off earlier tonight, like turn them off at midnight, and then start fresh by turning them on at noon tomorrow? That won't cause any problems if I do that way, will it?
I hadn't really thought of how I'd do the time change and light change until just now (doh). I'm a horrible planner.![]()
Good news. I received my clip-on fan today and it's actually bigger than I thought. Not huge, I just thought it would be tiny, it's 6". Now, when lights are off, it won't really do much good because that window is covered to prevent light from getting in, but once lights are on, I can open that window and hopefully it will draw in cooler air to blow into my space.
Your fan can be used for both bringing in fresh air on open window and also to circulate air in the space on closed window. I hope you ordered a good one because she's going to be doing some overtime!!
Your grow space includes areas that you aren't growing in so if you want to dehumidify the air around your plants you'll need to dehumidify the entire space. Placing it farther away will keep the warm air from heating up the air temps in your immediate grow area so that is fine but having your fan circulating the air will equalize the humidity and temp levels eventually.This next question may seen insignificant, but does it matter where my dehumidifier is placed in relation to where my plants are? I had it right next to the plants, but it tends to emit heat and I felt that might be bad for the plants, so I moved it back about 5-feet. It's still drawing moisture out of the air, so I guess that's the point. But I wasn't sure if I should have it closer to the plants as I did initially or not.
My rule of thumb is no lights at lights off any brighter than the moon. If you want you can always just tape over the offending lights.Oh, one other thing I wanted to bring up. The dehumidifier, heater and my light strip all have some lights on them. The heater and light strip are orange lights, the dehumidifier is a bluish white light. I've heard about making sure there's no light in the room once they are in flower mode. Right now, when I turn off all the lights and close the door, I cannot see any of the plants, nor any light reflecting onto the plants. Should I cover over those lights anyway? I've heard that even a little light can make a difference, but then I've heard that if you can't see your plants, it's dark enough. Should I err on the side of safety and do it anyway, just to be sure?
Yes. Foliar will deliver it faster but the small amount that the foliar provides won't help for the long term. Foliar to get some immediately to the plant and in your feed solution so that the plant has a reservoir to pull from. While the foliar may fix the immediate problem your issue is not enough in the soil for the roots to take up. Foliar won't solve that problem. Remember that nutrient ions in the soil only get taken up when the plant accepts them from the microbe presenting it so it's ok to have a reserve in the soil.In regards to giving some extra nutrients to address my magnesium deficiency, you're saying I should put some on the soil as well as doing the foliar spray?
That's sort of subjective to your situation. Large grow operations use RO water to lessen the chances of unintended consequences of unknown minerals in the water affecting the plants ability to take up nutrients. In my area, I use tap water because the waters main mineral components are magnesium and calcium. No need for me to be removing it just to be adding it back in with cal/mag. You can probably look up the water reports for your area online to see what your water is like and if there is anything that you need to be aware of. I would imagine that if you've been feeding your other plants tap water without issue then it is safe for your cannabis plants. Some water districts like to use chlorine to clean their water. If this is the case with yours then you want to let the water sit for a day to allow the chorine to evaporate. Others will use a derivative called chloramines. These don't evaporate as easily but are also not as harsh on your plants so you can use the water with chloramines pretty much straight out of the tap or you can let it sit for a day or two in a bucket before you use it.I got some distilled water to mix it up, as I read that was better than water with minerals in it.
You can reserve some of the solution for around 2 weeks. What I would do is to mix up your foliar solution and whatever is left over use it in your feed solution.Obviously I'm not going to use 5-liters all at once, will it be okay to mix and leave for another time? If I can't mix and leave for later, then I have to try and work out how much to use in a 400ml spray bottle. When I use it for the soil, do I need to apply it before I water? I just watered last night, so that will have to wait if it needs to be watered in. I did sprinkle some of my egg shell powder onto the soil in some of my plants. I was making it up for my aquatic tanks, and didn't have enough to do all the plants, hopefully it won't hurt anything.
That's why we're here!!!!Okie dokie, I think that's all my questions for you (as if that wasn't enough). You've been a great help in guiding me and I cannot thank you enough. I truly appreciate every single person that's answered my questions, even when I've asked the same question more than once. This is a great site, very helpful and I'd recommend it to anyone who wants to grow. Thank you, and I mean that sincerely.![]()