Yellow tips, red stems, week 7 of flower… What does this mean??

[Doublekush]

As previously discussed I’ve been concerned about this gorilla cookie auto, she’s on week 7 of flower and with a couple flushes the yellow tips are still concerningly not bettering and continuing to spread to smaller leaves…

I’m worried if I leave it it will ruin the bud, what should I do?

Also the stems are starting to turn heavily purple/red, could someone tell me what this means?

Picture quality is the best I can get unfortunately!

Thanks in advance

 

[BearWater]

Flushes? Like you ran a bunch of water through it or you just watered with plain water?

Wheres your light set at? Height wise and power wise?

The yellow leafs will not get better, what is yellow is yellow now and will only get worse looking.

What nutrients are you feeding? What medium are you in?

 

[Doublekush]

Flushes? Like you ran a bunch of water through it or you just watered with plain water?

Wheres your light set at? Height wise and power wise?

The yellow leafs will not get better, what is yellow is yellow now and will only get worse looking.

What nutrients are you feeding? What medium are you in?

The last 2 feeds were ph neutral water with no nutes.

600w full spectrum led, 2-3foot away from canopy.

Fed with bio biz grow and shogun samurai during veg. Mild bio biz grow and overdrive during flower. Grown in 60% canna coco 40% virgin peat mix with a handful of perlite in there.

What do you think the yellow tips are caused by? And any tips on how to tackle it early when spotted?

Cheers

 

[Doublekush]

Flushes? Like you ran a bunch of water through it or you just watered with plain water?

Wheres your light set at? Height wise and power wise?

The yellow leafs will not get better, what is yellow is yellow now and will only get worse looking.

What nutrients are you feeding? What medium are you in?

Also should I harvest early? Will the buds spoil if I leave it another 2-3 weeks?

Do you know the reason for the red/purple stem that sprung up week 6 of flower?

 

[BearWater]

I dont have any experience and little knowledge with coco or those nutrients or autos! I missed that part : / dont harvest yet! Wait a minute to see if you get some more feed back.

But my guess is they’re hungry if you havent fed them and being in coco. But again wait for someone who can better advise you.

For what it’s worth I missed the nutrient load up on my soil, last run. And the plants started to eat themselves.

 

[Doublekush]

I dont have any experience and little knowledge with coco or those nutrients or autos! I missed that part : / dont harvest yet! Wait a minute to see if you get some more feed back.

But my guess is they’re hungry if you havent fed them and being in coco. But again wait for someone who can better advise you.

For what it’s worth I missed the nutrient load up on my soil, last run. And the plants started to eat themselves.

The plants have been over fed if anything, they’ve had high nitrogen during veg and high p and k during flower, high lighting, correct humidity, just trying to work out the balances, I understand it could be nutrient burn? Not sure though

 

[Eledin]

Thats nute burn, even if you flushed they might still have gotten a little bit worse because of the nutes buffered in the soil since you didnt flush until runoff. Should be better now that you flushed a couple of times.
Purple stems can mean different things:
1. Overwatering.
2. Phosphorus, magnessium, potassium, calcium or iron deficiency.
3. Big temperature changes between light and dark cycle and/or unconsistent or suboptimal climate (such as bad VPD, humidity too high...)
4. Fungal or bacterial disease.
5. Nothing, some strains have purple or red stems when they go to flower, its usually the strains that show blue too but not necessarily only.

Are you meassuring PH? That can also mess with nutes. Thats a very potent light too, you should probably dimm it a bit even if its at 2 feet, the tops might still be burning because of that. If you give me the model I can try to find a ppfd map for your model but a samsung diode 600W LED panel can easily give more than 1200umols in the middle at 2 feet which is a lot, not many plants can take that much light.
Another problem I see, youre mixing two different nute brands, why? I would only advice to do that if youre growing 100% organic and you replace the same ammendments that are in one liquid with a cheaper one that has the same, you never know what you can cause when mixing chemicals that might not be suposed to be mixed, and that can easily happen if you mix fertilizers from different brands.
I would advice you either go 100% organic and add some microorganisms or stop using biobizz because even though you can use it in coco its not optimal to use it without microorganisms and shogun seems to be a mineral fertilizer which is probably not compatible with microorganisms and after looking at their catalog I cant seem to find any supplement with microorganisms which only makes me think thats the case.

 

[Eledin]

Now I might need help with this next one because Ive only done this twice but for me, mixing peat and coco wasnt very good. I do put some coco in my peat but not more than 20% of the total volume of the pot. Now, maybe some people have found succes mixing it that way but all the serious growers I know go either coco or peat, not both, and until now I thought it was because like me, if they tried they didnt have good results, but here Im just speculating.

 

[Florida_Mike]

If those tiny buds are "week 7" of flower, she has many things wrong imo.
I see very little white hairs left. Me thinks that she's about at her end. The
very dark shiny/waxy leaves & burnt tips suggest N tox. From the net:

Spotting burning tips
I’m mapping out how nitrogen or other nutrient excesses in cannabis can lead to thick, dark foliage that burns at the edges and tips over time.
Nitrogen (N) toxicity in cannabis occurs when the plant absorbs more nitrogen than it can use, leading to stress and damage. While nutrient burn from various elements can look similar, nitrogen toxicity has some characteristic symptoms. Here’s what to look for:

1. Dark, Glossy Leaves:
   Excess nitrogen often causes leaves to become unusually dark green and appear overly lush or “greasy.” This is because the plant is accumulating chlorophyll and other nitrogen-rich compounds.
2. Burned or Crispy Leaf Tips and Edges:
   One of the hallmark signs is browning or burning at the tips and margins of the leaves. These areas may turn crispy or necrotic, starting on the older leaves and sometimes progressing inward.
3. Leaf Curling or Distortion:
   Leaves might exhibit curling—either upward or downward—as the plant struggles to manage the excess nitrogen. The exact pattern can vary, but distortion is a common response to stress.
4. Delayed Maturation and Stunted Growth:
   While the plant may initially look vigorous due to the dark green foliage, nitrogen toxicity can lead to slower overall growth or delays in transitioning between vegetative and flowering stages.
5. General Signs of Nutrient Imbalance:
   In some cases, you may also notice that the plant’s overall health begins to decline if the toxicity is severe. Other deficiencies might eventually emerge because the plant’s uptake of other nutrients can be disrupted.

Differentiating from Other Issues​

• Nutrient Burn vs. Light Burn:
  While both can cause leaf tip browning, light burn usually affects the areas of the leaves most exposed to the light source (often with bleaching or bleached patches) and tends to be more localized. Nitrogen toxicity tends to create a uniform dark green appearance with progressive browning at the edges.
• Deficiency Symptoms:
  Nitrogen deficiency, on the other hand, usually causes leaves to yellow (chlorosis) rather than darken and burn. So, dark, overly lush foliage combined with burnt edges is more indicative of excess rather than a lack of nitrogen.

 

[Doublekush]

Thats nute burn, even if you flushed they might still have gotten a little bit worse because of the nutes buffered in the soil since you didnt flush until runoff. Should be better now that you flushed a couple of times.
Purple stems can mean different things:
1. Overwatering.
2. Phosphorus, magnessium, potassium, calcium or iron deficiency.
3. Big temperature changes between light and dark cycle and/or unconsistent or suboptimal climate (such as bad VPD, humidity too high...)
4. Fungal or bacterial disease.
5. Nothing, some strains have purple or red stems when they go to flower, its usually the strains that show blue too but not necessarily only.

Are you meassuring PH? That can also mess with nutes. Thats a very potent light too, you should probably dimm it a bit even if its at 2 feet, the tops might still be burning because of that. If you give me the model I can try to find a ppfd map for your model but a samsung diode 600W LED panel can easily give more than 1200umols in the middle at 2 feet which is a lot, not many plants can take that much light.
Another problem I see, youre mixing two different nute brands, why? I would only advice to do that if youre growing 100% organic and you replace the same ammendments that are in one liquid with a cheaper one that has the same, you never know what you can cause when mixing chemicals that might not be suposed to be mixed, and that can easily happen if you mix fertilizers from different brands.
I would advice you either go 100% organic and add some microorganisms or stop using biobizz because even though you can use it in coco its not optimal to use it without microorganisms and shogun seems to be a mineral fertilizer which is probably not compatible with microorganisms and after looking at their catalog I cant seem to find any supplement with microorganisms which only makes me think thats the case.

Ph is between 6 and 6.8. The light is a Phlizon 600w though the plant probably catches light coming off the cfl I have in there to keep it warm in there too.

Okay so mixing brands isn’t good? I didn’t know this but makes sense now I think about it. What is a good brand to go for? What exact nutes should I be feeding at what stages? And what microorganisms would be worth adding? Or will they be in the nutrients already?

Appreciate the advice bud

 

[Doublekush]

If those tiny buds are "week 7" of flower, she has many things wrong imo.
I see very little white hairs left. Me thinks that she's about at her end. The
very dark shiny/waxy leaves & burnt tips suggest N tox. From the net:

Spotting burning tips
I’m mapping out how nitrogen or other nutrient excesses in cannabis can lead to thick, dark foliage that burns at the edges and tips over time.
Nitrogen (N) toxicity in cannabis occurs when the plant absorbs more nitrogen than it can use, leading to stress and damage. While nutrient burn from various elements can look similar, nitrogen toxicity has some characteristic symptoms. Here’s what to look for:

1. Dark, Glossy Leaves:
   Excess nitrogen often causes leaves to become unusually dark green and appear overly lush or “greasy.” This is because the plant is accumulating chlorophyll and other nitrogen-rich compounds.
2. Burned or Crispy Leaf Tips and Edges:
   One of the hallmark signs is browning or burning at the tips and margins of the leaves. These areas may turn crispy or necrotic, starting on the older leaves and sometimes progressing inward.
3. Leaf Curling or Distortion:
   Leaves might exhibit curling—either upward or downward—as the plant struggles to manage the excess nitrogen. The exact pattern can vary, but distortion is a common response to stress.
4. Delayed Maturation and Stunted Growth:
   While the plant may initially look vigorous due to the dark green foliage, nitrogen toxicity can lead to slower overall growth or delays in transitioning between vegetative and flowering stages.
5. General Signs of Nutrient Imbalance:
   In some cases, you may also notice that the plant’s overall health begins to decline if the toxicity is severe. Other deficiencies might eventually emerge because the plant’s uptake of other nutrients can be disrupted.

Differentiating from Other Issues​

• Nutrient Burn vs. Light Burn:
  While both can cause leaf tip browning, light burn usually affects the areas of the leaves most exposed to the light source (often with bleaching or bleached patches) and tends to be more localized. Nitrogen toxicity tends to create a uniform dark green appearance with progressive browning at the edges.
• Deficiency Symptoms:
  Nitrogen deficiency, on the other hand, usually causes leaves to yellow (chlorosis) rather than darken and burn. So, dark, overly lush foliage combined with burnt edges is more indicative of excess rather than a lack of nitrogen.

I summed up that the yield isn’t gonna be huge but this is my first grow lol! Halfway through I discovered autos don’t need as many nutes so have definitely done some irreversible damage with that and over defoliation early on in its life so this will be corrected next time.

I’ll take a look at the lighting too

Thanks for the tips guys these all help

 

[Florida_Mike]

I apologize for being direct & to the point. I tend not to sugar coat anything and
nobody was stating what seemed quite obvious to me.
I wasn't saying that to disparage or discourage you. I was merely stating it as an
observation. I know there are differences with me being more experienced, and
being in hydro, & not growing autos, but my plant was flipped on 30 Dec, first
flower was 14 Jan. So that's 2.3 weeks of flower (4.3 if counting pre flower). I'm
worried she's bad stunted from accidentally letting her nutes run up to 2200ppm,
notice the burnt tips? That was several weeks ago, she seems fine now, but i'll
never know how much potential was lost. I'm not showing you this to try &
brag, but to show you what a plant that's 2 weeks into flower can look like vs
your 7 weeks.

Everybody has learning curves and makes mistakes, including the best amongst
us. Stay excited and keep at it and you'll get there with time & experience.

Happy growing & good luck

 

[Doublekush]

I apologize for being direct & to the point. I tend not to sugar coat anything and
nobody was stating what seemed quite obvious to me.
I wasn't saying that to disparage or discourage you. I was merely stating it as an
observation. I know there are differences with me being more experienced, and
being in hydro, & not growing autos, but my plant was flipped on 30 Dec, first
flower was 14 Jan. So that's 2.3 weeks of flower (4.3 if counting pre flower). I'm
worried she's bad stunted from accidentally letting her nutes run up to 2200ppm,
notice the burnt tips? That was several weeks ago, she seems fine now, but i'll
never know how much potential was lost. I'm not showing you this to try &
brag, but to show you what a plant that's 2 weeks into flower can look like vs
your 7 weeks.

Everybody has learning curves and makes mistakes, including the best amongst
us. Stay excited and keep at it and you'll get there with time & experience.

Happy growing & good luck

All the info is well appreciated bro. Wow that’s after only 2 week!? Yeah I’ll be revising a few things on my next lot for sure.

What nutrients do you use and what does your feeding schedule look like?

Absolutely man, this just makes me want to learn more and get better :)

Also out of interest, what strain you got going on?

 

[Florida_Mike]

All the info is well appreciated bro. Wow that’s after only 2 week!? Yeah I’ll be revising a few things on my next lot for sure.

What nutrients do you use and what does your feeding schedule look like?

Absolutely man, this just makes me want to learn more and get better :)

Also out of interest, what strain you got going on?

The strain is King Louis XIII x Scott OG. She was a sickly little runt gifted me on 09 Nov 25.
She was originally going to be a mother. I'm growing in rockwool with recirculating drip.
Feed is 1200-1400ppm @ 5.8ph General Hydroponics 8 part with other amendments. Feed pumps
are on continuously when lights are on. Here is pic of her clones flipped on 25 Dec 25.

 

[Doublekush]

The strain is King Louis XIII x Scott OG. She was a sickly little runt gifted me on 09 Nov 25.
She was originally going to be a mother. I'm growing in rockwool with recirculating drip.
Feed is 1200-1400ppm @ 5.8ph General Hydroponics 8 part with other amendments. Feed pumps
are on continuously when lights are on. Here is pic of her clones flipped on 25 Dec 25.

They’re looking real nice, hopefully my next lot turn out looking as healthy!

Any recommendations on a brand of nutrient I should go for?

 

[Florida_Mike]

They’re looking real nice, hopefully my next lot turn out looking as healthy!

Any recommendations on a brand of nutrient I should go for?

Thank you. I'm sure your grows will rival anything I do in no time flat.

General Hydroponics is all I've ever used, so it's the only nutrient
line that I can personally speak to. It's pricey but it's very customizable
and the results speak for themselves. I'm not sure how well it performs in
soil, but in hydro you can see for yourself looking @ my pics. Detractors
ask: "why buy water?", to them I say - I don't know anything else and I'm
too old to change my ways, besides that, look @ my results. GH does
have a powered line that I'm going to try here in the near future.

 

[Doublekush]

Thank you. I'm sure your grows will rival anything I do in no time flat.

General Hydroponics is all I've ever used, so it's the only nutrient
line that I can personally speak to. It's pricey but it's very customizable
and the results speak for themselves. I'm not sure how well it performs in
soil, but in hydro you can see for yourself looking @ my pics. Detractors
ask: "why buy water?", to them I say - I don't know anything else and I'm
too old to change my ways, besides that, look @ my results. GH does
have a powered line that I'm going to try here in the near future.

Once can only hope

I’ll check them out man thanks, sound good brother I’ll be following your grows

 

[PooToe]

If you are going to continue growing autos one thing you need to be aware of is that they don't respond well to stressors. Any mistake you made will, for the most part, stay with you throughout the rest of the grow.

This is one of the reasons I tell newbs to start with femmed photo seeds so that they have a chance to fix whatever issues they may have created before they flip the light schedule. Autos, IMO, are not for newbs. More experienced growers can catch issues early and fix them quickly meaning less recovery time for the plant and more time to stay in growth mode.

I agree with @FloridaMike. Simplify your nutrient line. I use FloraNova from GH which is just a concentrated version of their Flora Trio line that they've figured out how to blend into one bottle without it precipitating. I grow in soil so I can recommend it wholeheartedly.

My advice would be to see your current plant to the end, enjoy what you've been able to accomplish and plan for the next run.

My last run using Armor Si, FloraNova and CALiMAGic.

 

[Doublekush]

If you are going to continue growing autos one thing you need to be aware of is that they don't respond well to stressors. Any mistake you made will, for the most part, stay with you throughout the rest of the grow.

This is one of the reasons I tell newbs to start with femmed photo seeds so that they have a chance to fix whatever issues they may have created before they flip the light schedule. Autos, IMO, are not for newbs. More experienced growers can catch issues early and fix them quickly meaning less recovery time for the plant and more time to stay in growth mode.

I agree with @FloridaMike. Simplify your nutrient line. I use FloraNova from GH which is just a concentrated version of their Flora Trio line that they've figured out how to blend into one bottle without it precipitating. I grow in soil so I can recommend it wholeheartedly.

My advice would be to see your current plant to the end, enjoy what you've been able to accomplish and plan for the next run.

My last run using Armor Si, FloraNova and CALiMAGic.

View attachment 2370365

Thanks mate I’ll look into those nutes.

Don’t get me wrong I’m happy with that fact I’ve managed to get my first plant this far and they’re looking frosty as hell!

But yeah the next ones I have scheduled are photos which are already in veg along with this one. they seem a lot more forgiving and actually look good in my opinion

Those look beautiful man what strains did you run?

 

[PooToe]

Thanks mate I’ll look into those nutes.

Don’t get me wrong I’m happy with that fact I’ve managed to get my first plant this far and they’re looking frosty as hell!

But yeah the next ones I have scheduled are photos which are already in veg along with this one. they seem a lot more forgiving and actually look good in my opinion

Those look beautiful man what strains did you run?

It was a mono crop of Florida Strawberry. I pulled almost 5P off that run.

Photos are much more forgiving and versatile. With regular photoperiods, if I get males I can use the pollen to make a seed run and never have to worry about seeds for that cultivar again. I can mother one of the females and use it to take clone cuttings from so that I have guaranteed females. I can flower the plant when I want to and not when the genetics say like with autos.

For me, autos are good to fill in my supply when I'm waiting for my photos to get to harvest.