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Growing with Gaia Green - Shaded's Method

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Growing with Gaia Green - Shaded's Method

Shaded_One 446 Replies 194,307 Views
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Hey @codemapost any questions you have ask in here, that way anyone can search and hopefully find this thread.

If I was you I would go get a bale of promix and mix gaia green all purpose at the Rate it lists for container gardens. You can also mix in some power bloom into your base soil as well. Just don't go over the recommended amount between the two.so if it says like 90 ml per gallon or whatever I would do 60 ml 444 and 30 ml 284 or some other combination to get to your total (just an example dont know the rate off hand).
Now just mix it up and let it sit while you finish this grow, making sure it stays moist and turn it once or twice during this time.
Now when your crop is done your soil will be well cooked and ready to use😄

You can veg in this soil, then when going to flower you might need top top dress like was saying in your thread. It's all dependent on size of plant compared to size of pot and how long its been in said pot. If you transfer to a nice new pot a week or so before flower you should be good for a couple weeks without top dressing.

P.s if you want your soil to buffer your water ad in dolomite lime and/or oyster shell flour into your base soil mix.

Hey @PrimoClonesCanada! I'm from the United States and can't access Gaia Green Living Soil. I've been trying to create a similar "pre-amended" soil mix and currently use a blend of 40% HP ProMix Mycorrhiza, 30% FoxFarm Happy Frog, 20% earthworm castings, and 444 (3 tbsp/gal). (Im planning on getting rid of the Happy Frog. )

I'm wondering if I could also add 284 from the start and then use it as a top-dress during pre and mid flowering, while continuing to use soil that contains both every time I pot up from the start. Or if I should add a medley of ingredients instead for example buying "Down To Earth" or similar amazon brands Alfalfa, Humic acid, Kelp, Oyster shell ect... (anything on the Gaia Green living soil bag ingredients).

What's your take on this approach?
 
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Been following this thread a while,in fact it all started when i came across it and had the idea to try this method....
I now have 9 plants(csi humboldt Chemdog D,chem91xchemd and flight risk)in a 100 gallon tote filled with 65 gallons of soil ammended with lime,perlite,ewc and gaia green,ive been adding kelp and marphyl at 50% every watering and fopiar feed with kelp once a week.
Im flipping to 12/12 tomorrow and will start brewing teas to keep the beneficial bacteria,fungi up.not sure on the stretch so im still uncertain when to add the scrog screen at this point.
So thank you for all the info you guys have shared,its gotten me this far.
Here are a few pics.
 

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Brewing the first basic compost tea...
Should i feed teas every watering?or just once in a while?
 

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Its not foaming cause i just started the pump bright before i took the pic
 
Dead thread and shaded isn’t a member here anymore. May be worth starting your own thread about this. May have better luck with visibility
 
Dead thread and shaded isn’t a member here anymore. May be worth starting your own thread about this. May have better luck with visibility
Agreed! I based my Gaia method after shaded’s back when this was active 😁
 
I used this method after reading the thread and had reliable results. It's an excellent way to start. I don't follow it very closely now, though. I still use Gaia Green, but use more amendments and different timing.
curious what your method looks like now
 
Hello and welcome to my "Growing with Gaia Green" guide! Figured I would just make a post that can be referenced instead of constantly writing this out in DM's or threads. Gaia Green products are 100% organic dry amendments for cannabis use. They are a Canadian based company but they also sell their product in the USA as well. They have a lot of products to offer and you may find a specific use for some of them due to your variables but I am just going to focus on what I personally use in my stack.

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Sprout phase, ~1 week: NO nutrients are being added to the growing medium. Earth worm castings & cotyledons provide more than enough nutrition for the first 2 weeks of a seeds life
-transplant to 1gallon-
Early veg phase, 4 weeks: amend 3tbsp of 100% All Purpose 4-4-4 per gallon of medium eg. 3tbsp of 4-4-4 for a 1gallon container
Late veg phase if needed, 4 weeks: top dress 3tbsp of 100% All Purpose 4-4-4 per gallon of medium eg. 3tbsp of 4-4-4 for a 1 gallon container
-transplant to 5gallon-
Early flower phase, 1 week before flipping lights: amend 3tbsp of 50% All Purpose 4-4-4 and 50% Power Bloom 2-8-4 per gallon of medium eg. 8tbsp of 4-4-4 and 8tbsp of 2-8-4 for a 5gallon container
Mid flower phase, week 3 or 4 of flower: top dress 3tbsp of 25% All Purpose 4-4-4 and 75% Power Bloom 2-8-4 per gallon of medium eg. 4tbsp of 4-4-4 and 12tbsp of 2-8-4 for a 5gallon container
Late flower phase, sativa plants: if you have a sativa plant chances are they may need an additional weeks of growing time so you could do a light top dress 2tbsp of 100% Power Bloom 2-8-4 per gallon of medium eg. 10tbsp of 100% Power Bloom 2-8-4 for a 5gallon container
-harvest-

This is the basic feed schedule and this is a FULL STRENGTH feeding regiment meaning you are pushing your plant pretty hard. Certain strains and different growing environments may mean that you might only need to use 2/3 of what I have here for amounts. I recommend starting off with 2/3 of what is listed and increasing to full amounts if you're certain that your plants can handle it.

Additional supplements that I use are:

Mycorrhizae
I generously dust the root ball EVERY time I transplant and I also add a couple scoops into my soil mix any time I amend some soil to be going into a new container. Do not underestimate your rhizosphere

Epsom Salts - Magnesium Sulfate
LEDs increase the demand for Mg and this helps cover that demand. Overall plant health and nutrient uptake seems to improve when adding 1tbsp of Epsom Salt every 2 weeks

Gypsum - Calcium Sulfate
Decreases soil salinity and improves soil structure while also providing Calcium and Sulfate. 1tbsp of Gypsum every 2 weeks

Rock Dust Blend - micronutrients and humic acid
Used primarily to supplement micronutrients that may be lacking. Overall plant health and lushness improved since I started adding 2tbsp every 2 weeks


Pretty much once you get started you are either amending or top dressing in 4 week blocks, adding supplemental nutrients every 2 weeks, and then you just water your plants. Good luck and happy growing!
Mid flower phase, week 3 or 4 of flower: top dress 3tbsp of 25% All Purpose 4-4-4.. 25% of the soil ?
 
Mid flower phase, week 3 or 4 of flower: top dress 3tbsp of 25% All Purpose 4-4-4.. 25% of the soil ?

Shaded provided an example for a 5-gallon pot...

eg. 4tbsp of 4-4-4 and 12tbsp of 2-8-4 for a 5gallon container
I haven't seen Shaded post here in a long time, so I'll respond. He was saying to mix the All Purpose with the Power Bloom in roughly a 1:3 ratio, which is 1/4 AP and 3/4 PB. Then, add 3 tbsp of the mixture for every gallon of soil. That would be 15 tbsp for a 5-gallon pot, but he used 16 tbsp because it's easier to measure.
4 tbsp = 1/4 cup
12 tbsp = 3/4 cup
 
I bought the Gaia Green 4-4-4 x 2-8-6 a few weeks ago. Along with Ful Power Fulvic Acid-Azomite-Langbeinite. Mycorrhizae-Promix BX.
Langbeinite, is some good stuff for supplementing Magnesium-Sulfur-Potassium.0-0-22. Is also the water soluble forms of all 3. Langbeinite, is 11% Magnesium, 22% Sulfur-22% Potassium Sulfate. Though, I wont use much of it.
Really the Gaia Green would seemingly have enough of most all nutrients, if one used enough of it, but the little bits extra, for sure dont hurt anything as long as not overdone.

I started 16 seeds last Tuesday. I soaked them in RO Water, with Fulvic Acid, annd most of them were popping the shells, within 24 hours, though one didnt. So I mechanically cracked it by hand, and has since been planted, but, probably will be a dud. 12 seeds are up and growing, out of the 16.
The 4 that had the problems were all of the same strain, and I was told they were extremely hard to grow, and that some were mutants, dwarfs. They are Puck/aka Skelly Hashplant S1s. Puck/Skelly, is also a hard plant to even breed. When Bob Hemphill first started a Regular Line, of the Puck almost 4 years ago, he didnt have many seeds to sell, as he said it was a hard plant to breed, as it didnt take well to pollen, and wouldnt prodice many seeds. So next time, he used a bunch of females to get more seeds and not run out so fast. First release sold out in 5 minutes.

But, these are S1s, and are even more finicky, and as I said, I was warned, but even if I get one-2 good plants, its ok. But the slow growth, and dwarfism, has already shown itself, in the few days theyve been up.
Puck, isnt a big plant anyway, and is a cross, from Nevil Schoenmaker, from The Seed Bank, in the 80s. It is a cross of Pacific Northwest Hashplant x NL1, got a Male from that, and crossed it back into the PNWHP clone, which has been around, since at least 1982. Puck was found in a pack of Nevils Hashplant in 1988, by a guy nicknamed Skelly, and he kept his weed in a container, that looked like a Hockey Puck. Thus the 2 names for the same plant.
I also started several Crickets and Cicada Regulars F2 repro from NWSun, on Strainly, and a couple Fem/Destroyers from SeedHeads on Strainly. Relic Seeds Cough BX3 Regulars,. And Ace Fem-Killer A5Haze.
Also considering the Puck S1s, didnt do well, I started 9 more late yesterday evening. Soaking in Fulvic Acid/RO Water.
Seedlings are in 18oz Solo Cups. Today, I put 1/4 Teaspoon of 4-4-4, and 1/4 TSP, of Azomite, per each cup. Watered/Misted, with Fulvic Acid. 1.6ml per 17oz RO Water. Soaking in 1.5ml FA-8.5oz water.
When I repot them, Ill add the Langbeinite.
Though Im going to put these outside in April. Im also going to try and keep them as small, as possible, except the PNWHP X Puck, and Puck S1s. They wont get big anyway.
 
Got 4 seedling going right now. I am trying the shaded method for the first time (in promix HP). Always used Advanced nutrients liquid bottles in the past, im tired of ph'ing and mixing, and results weren't great (probably my fault though)...

Ordered some gaia green gypsum/glacier rock dust and some epsom salt.

Will see how it goes, im optimistic!
 
Transplanted my plants from their solo cups to 1 gal pots.

2x Anniversary Cake
2x cherrylicious
1x Poppin Bottlez

one of my anniversary cake is a freak. Ill let her grow anyway.
My poppin bottlez first leaves are rusted, i overwatered this one a bit at first.

Im moving theseplants in my 5x5 tent as soon as my previous grow finishes (harvesting this week)

This is the mix i used for the 1 gal pots (following more or less Shaded's method) see picture bellow
 

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I used this method after reading the thread and had reliable results. It's an excellent way to start. I don't follow it very closely now, though. I still use Gaia Green, but use more amendments and different timing.
Same or at least I did before moving to the living soil, had great results i based my mix off this method as well when I started using it
 
Transplanted 4 of the plants into 7 gal pots and the freaky one in a 5 gal spot.

20%EWC
70%PROMIX HP
10% ADDED PERLITE

1.5tbsp/gal of 4-4-4
1.5tbsp/gal of 2-8-4
1tbsp/gal of gypsum
2tbsp/gal of glacial rock dust
Used mykos on the roots wheb transplanting

I intend on flipping 2 weeks after transplant and then i will topdress at week 2 of flower.

Everything looking awesome. One of the anniversary cake is growint super fast (bottom left).

So far so good with shaded's method
 

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Transplanted 4 of the plants into 7 gal pots and the freaky one in a 5 gal spot.

20%EWC
70%PROMIX HP
10% ADDED PERLITE

1.5tbsp/gal of 4-4-4
1.5tbsp/gal of 2-8-4
1tbsp/gal of gypsum
2tbsp/gal of glacial rock dust
Used mykos on the roots wheb transplanting

I intend on flipping 2 weeks after transplant and then i will topdress at week 2 of flower.

Everything looking awesome. One of the anniversary cake is growint super fast (bottom left).

So far so good with shaded's method
Mix looks about right on for what I’d run!
 
1tbsp/gal of gypsum
2tbsp/gal of glacial rock dust
Your plants look good, but the quantities of gypsum and rock dust aren't per gallon. They're per pot. You also didn't list Epsom salt, which adds magnesium. Be sure to amend it before and during the first few weeks of flowering. I prefer to add it to the water. One tablespoon per gallon is recommended.
 
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